Thank you so much for your kind words Will, I really appreciate your time watching my video and support 😁

You are very kind, thank you for your wonderful feedback 😊

Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you like it 🤩 I agree, there are so many cool ideas and technology to come in the world of 3D. We've only just begun! 😲

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your feedback and support. 😁

Thank you so much marko2210, I really appreciate your kind words. What IDEX printer do you have? Do you use it for Duplicate printing or 2 material/colour prints more?

Kane i give credit where it’s due, and this is pretty pretty cool. Especially for wide ender audience. Anyhow, my IDEX of choice is Tenlog D3, run by DuetWifi+Duex5, with dual hemera. It’s pretty ok 😉 the other one is stock but currently on an operating table getting overhauled I mostly print dual color for work (architectural scaled models), dual material trials for some engineering weekend storming and duplication for stuff that get’s printed in volumes either for sale or for giveaways. So a lot of all i would say. In the works is a dual IDEX that will make quadruple and quad color/material available. Come join “MarX group” on facebook if interested. We could use a guy like you there 😉

​@@marko2210 ah yes, the Tenlog D3 is probably the other main entry point IDEX printer out there. Sounds like you've given it a serious overhaul...but then that's half the fun right? 😂😉 I love your use cases, it's exactly the kind of thing I envisioned when I started working on the kit and when I think about the power of an IDEX printer overall. Quad-IDEX, now you really have my attention 😯 I will definitely join the group, I'd love to see the progress that is making and help in any way if I can.

Kane we are just makers, aren’t we 😉

@@marko2210 do you mind sharing your duet config files? :)

Exactly, and even if you tend to switch from regular 0.4mm prints but every now and then like to blast out a 0.8mm or larger "rough" print...it ends the pain of frequent nozzle changes. I don't know anyone that actually enjoys changing out a nozzle, especially if you have ABL setup too 😅

Thank you so much, you're very kind. It takes a lot of work to make a video like this and your kind feedback really means a lot 🙂

Thank you so much for your kind words, it really does mean so much to me. I'd love to have you join the growing community of "IDEX owners" soon but in the mean time your support is amazing. Reach out and let me know if I can answer any questions of help you with anything. 😁👍

Thank you so much for your kind words Luke 😊 I'm glad you like my kit and maybe one day you'll be an Ender IDEX owner too (you can also buy just the files now and print your own if you want a bigger project 😮) At the very least I hope I have inspired you to look into and try something new with your machine 😊

Thank you Gaston, you are very kind 😊 Do you have an Ender 3 (or a few 😜)

@@SEN3Dcom 1 Ender 3 (heavily customized, probably the frame and the LCD screen are the only original part left) and a Prusa MK3

@@gastondombiak1538 Nice, how do you think the Ender and Prusa compare?

SEN 3D both work very well and reliable for me. Ender With bltouch, creality glass bed and all metal hot end performs as well as the MK3. I then added 32 bit board with latest marlin and hemera hot end and it is now even better. I use both printers for same kind of work. Both reliable. Both good.

@@gastondombiak1538 That's really interesting and good to get your view. It seems fairly rare to find owners of an Ender and a Prusa. The vast majority of printer people seems to live in one camp of the other :)

Thank you so much, I'll have to look into a version for the Artillery soon 😉

@@SEN3Dcom meanwhile I’m thinking to buy an ender 3. You ship to spain?

@@kamiwey I do indeed 😊

@@SEN3Dcom Count me in for 2 of those extruders if they are available for Artillery X1!

I wish it didn’t cost more than a new Ender 3! It just the electronics cost less, I would love to print the parts to do this mood myself.

I like the way you're thinking 😀 Ender IDEX XL. I am working on the CR-10 version at the moment so hopefully it will be available soon 😇 Make sure you join my mailing list at EnderIDEX.com to find out as soon as it's release. However, I also like your idea of taking the existing kit and transferring it across, it would be a great custom project. The core frame is obviously very similar just larger. And you'd have to be confident with opening the motherboard box. But if you did I'd be delighted to help you along the way. 👍

I have a CR10S that I'm looking to modify into something fancy. I was planning on going DIY but truth be told I wouldn't be able to match this bit of kit. I do think a double sided Z axis propulsion is the better way to go because of the added weight. Luckily the CR10S has that covered. If you manage to come up with a CR10S version, it may very well be this years Christmas gift I instruct my wife to get me 🤣

Hi Adam, Thank you for your kind words, it's great to hear you're exploring what's available and also what's possible in the world of IDEX printing 😁 So in principle I believe the kit would work on a CR-10 (or even an Ender Extender kit) as the basic printer parts and structure are the same. I believe the only changes needed would be: - a longer x-axis extrusion to give the 2nd carriage somewhere to park as well as enable the X2 belt pulley to be mounted - longer belts for this new longer x-axis - Longer cables for the 2nd hotend Obviously other snags or hiccups may come up, but this is all I expect it would take. I am working on a more specific kit for the CR-10 but this will take a little longer before it's available 😇 Also, in terms of direct drive. The new 2nd hotend is bowden based but it is possible to have hotend 1 as a direct drive as long as the stepper motor placement does not interfere with the X2 belt path.

I second this comment, I'd buy six in a heart beat

Great questions, yes you can use a BL Touch no problem. It fits to hotend 1 and works in mostly the same way as normal. The only difference is for duplicate and mirror mode prints you still need a manually levelled bed as 2 hotends touch the bed at 2 points at the same time. Sadly, the challenge with using your existing board is that it cannot run enough stepper motors. The Ender IDEX has 6 stepper motors (X1, X2, Y, Z, E1 & E2). A majority of board only run 4 or 5 steppers. This is why I supply the kit with an SKR Pro board (it's also an excellent board). However, if you did want the Ender IDEX to be silent you are still able to install silent stepper drivers too and get the same noise output as you'd get from any other silent board 😇

Prusa slicer supports using dissolvable support filament I'm the way that you describe.

Hey Darren, Thanks for the feedback, I think you make a fair point. Overall an IDEX printer is a complex piece of kit - a bit like going from a moped to a motorbike. You could buy 2 mopeds but it's still not a motorbike 😜 I realise the kit isn't for everyone but maybe one or two of my future products catch your eye too. And at the very least I hope I have sparked your imagination so you can come up with some innovative ideas too 😁

Thank you for your kind words and interest Donald 😁 Dual Z is a great additional upgrade and certainly worth adding as well. The good news is that the typical dual Z kits (with a second Z stepper motor) are fully compatible with the Ender IDEX setup and many people have made that exact upgrade already 😮 Do let me know if I can provide any additional information or help 😇

@@SEN3Dcom Do you have U.S distribution? If so who?

Hey Batarn, Thank you for your comment and kind words 😁 I have not tested either of these printers directly but after a quick google I would say yes, probably 😇 The frame and brackets all seem to be identical to the Ender 3 ones and so should work in the same way (some people have tested the kit of other clone machines without issues). The main thing I would consider is they both seem to have custom LCD screen. These may be possible to transfer over to another motherboard/firmware but I cannot be sure. Worst case you may have to switch to a classic LCD or something like a TFT35 to control the printer. Let me know if you're interested in getting stuck into this, I would be delighted to help with any minor hiccups that may crop up compared to the classic Ender 3 version of the kit. And also I now offer the Files Pack so you might want to print and make everything yourself 😮 Video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e8h6mcmA0NHIfnU.html&ab_channel=SEN3D File pack here: enderidex.com/files-pack/

Thank you so much for taking a look at my video, I really appreciate it 😁

Thank you Rolf, you're very kind. I'm glad you liked it 😁

Thank you so much for your kind feedback 😁 I am working on the next printers to bring the kit to so the more people request a printer the more likely it could be next. Your vote for the Lulzbot TAZ 6 has been registered 😉

@@SEN3Dcom I will then publish you video in a few TAZ forum and instruct them to comment here. There is a TON of interest in IDEX upgrades for the TAZ which is such a rock solid machine.

@@jeffrey-deitch That's awesome. As silly as it sounds I am keen to hear what people want. I use my own research and guessed but if there is big demand for the TAZ who am I to stand in their way 😁😇

The main kit comes with a whole new controller board that you swap out, so that board will have different firmware installed on it to control both extruders.

Hey Ignis, great question and put simply yes (almost 😮)! 😁 The typical dual Z kit with 2 stepper motors and a new mirror back plate should fit fine and many existing IDEX customers have made that upgrade (it's a good one to do). Yes, BL touch works, you install it on hotend 1 and prob the bed like usual. The kit files that come with the kit also has multiple pre-compiled BL touch versions of the firmware. However, when running a duplicate or mirror mode print you still need to manually level the bed. This is because 2 hotends touch the bed at 2 points at the same time. So the Z axis cannot compensate for 2 at the same time (this is true of any IDEX printer). But you can still use the BL touch sensor to help you identify the bed level and adjust it too! Finally, the micro-swiss direct drive hotend is not as easy. You can install a direct drive of your choice on hotend 1 as long as the motor for it is mounted over the front of the carriage. Those that mount it over the back like the MicroSwiss will hit the new X2 belt path. For hotend 2 it is more complex as this hotend needs to be possible to raise and lower independent of hotend 2 to get them perfectly level. It also needs the new mounting points for the higher X2 belt path. However, in the file pack at the moment is a beta file for the hotend 2 direct drive which has been received very well by the community so far. And it is equally possible to print your own direct drive solution for hotend 1 as well! In both cases the same form factor of the MicroSwiss hotend means that is can be mounted and used fine, it's just the direct drive carriage that is the issue. Do let me know if I can provide any more details, information or support 😁 And thank you for your interest and support 👍

Absolutely, that is a perfect use case for IDEX printing. Provided the dissolvable filament (PVA) you select is printable at ~240ºC or less then you should be fine. Also, materials like PLA and PETG do not adhere to each-other very well. So you could experiment with using one or the other as support material that should come away much easier. As you may know ABS also dissolves in acetone so using ABS as a support materials with another acetone resistant filament gives you another option. Finally, as dissolvable filament can be quite expensive you also have the option in most IDEX capable slicers to only print the interface layer in PVA. So your support towers would be PLA for example but the 2-3 layers that touch the finished part are in PVA and so dissolve away whilst also using a very small amount of the filament.

Excellent question. The kit uses the SKR Pro V1.2 which is very easy to swap stepper drivers for. I have many customers that have done this without issue and I'd be happy to help if you did want to do this as a next mini project after setting the IDEX up. This is an excellent video showing what's involved in inserting TMCs in the SKR Pro board and I'd be happy to compile the firmware for you if you weren't comfortable doing it yourself: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/acBklKSr2uDZZGg.html&ab_channel=EdwardBraiman

Thanks for your vote on the "next IDEX kit" 😁 I few people have mentioned the Anet A8 so hopefully it won't take me too long to get to. I will of course announce as soon as I make it available 🎉

Excellent question, in short it works great with a BL Touch! You attached the BL Touch to the hotend 1 like normal and use it in all the typical ways. The only drawback is that for a duplicate or mirror mode print you still need to manually level your bed. This is because 2 hotends touch the bed at 2 points at the same time. This is true of any IDEX printer, the Z axis cannot correct both hotends at once. Also, the SKR Pro motherboard I use in the kit has a port ready to accept the BL touch cable. Plus, I provide pre-compiled firmware for the BL Touch and an install guide so it couldn't be easier. 😁

Thank you for your kind words. I am delighted you like the kit and it has inspired you. So there is a lot in the kit, SKR Pro board, complete wiring loom, 2 stepper motors, new carriage, hotend, X-axis extrusion, 10+ custom designed and produced parts. However, I also appreciate there are lots of different budgets for 3D printing enthusiasts. One of the best ways some people have bought the kit is to buy just the custom X-axis parts or let me know the parts they need and I can quote for that. You can then use existing stepper motors or other parts you might already have to complete the build. Obviously this will require a bit more hands on work for things like wiring up and installing it, but I'd still be happy to help. Drop me an email at kane@sen3d.com and let me know what you're thinking and I'll see what I can do to help you join team IDEX 😉

Hey Raymond, I know we spoke directly but just so people don't think I ignored your questions 😇....Yes the kit absolutely can use the TFT35 (and other TFTs). The kit uses the SKR Pro board by BTT, so pretty much any screen that works with this board and Marlin should work great. The only ting to bear in mind is that some specialist IDEX features in marlin may not show up on graphical interfaces or may need some modifying to show up.

You sure can. The sensor is installed on hotend 1 like normal. As long as you tube you X/Y offset well both hotends can then use the bed levelling mesh. If you did buy my kit I provide an installation guide and pre-compiled firmware too 🎉 The only case it is not useful is for duplicate or mirror mode prints. In this case 2 hotends touch the bed at 2 points at the same time so ABL will not be able to adjust for both at once (this is true of any IDEX setup). But you can still use the BL Touch data to accurately level your bed manually.

New extrusion is longer, so the left toolhead can reach the entire bed

Great question. Obviously the stock hotend/bowden setup of the Ender 3 won't work for Nylons. But, temperatures is not an issue with dissolvable PVA filament though which is good! I have not tried the Micro Swiss myself but given its identical mounting points and form factor I cannot see why i would not be possible to swap it out. In the kit the second hotend is the same as the stock Ender 3 one and uses the conventional mounting holes. Currently the custom nature of the second carriage means it is not out of the box direct drive compatible. The reason is that the second hotend can be raised or lowered with a screw to keep it levelled with the first hotend. However, it would be possible for Extruder 1 to be setup with an off the shelf direct drive and Extruder 2 maintain the bowden. This way E1 could print in TPU with E2 printing an alternative material. The only thing to keep an eye on will be the weight on the X-axis given you're adding the motor on top of the additional carriage.

Different colours could be possible, for now I'm just trying to keep up with demand 😅 Any fan ducts would need to be customised to work with the second extruder. The reason for this is the new second hotend is quite custom. It has the hotend on the left of the carriage (rather than right) for maximum build plate coverage. It also raises and lowers independently with a screw to enable it to be perfectly levelled with the first extruder. Because of this the whole mount is quite different and is unlikely to work with an off the shelf duct.

Thank you, you're very kind. There are a few Ender 3 V2 versions out in the wild now 😮 The only requirement is that you replace the Creality screen with a classic LCD or something like a TFT35 (the Creality screen does not play well with non-creality motherboards). It is also possible to use it with the Ender Extenders too! Depending on where you're based I can quote you for the longer X-axis extrusion, belts and cables to get it working. There is already an Ender 3V2 300XL out in the wild 😇 Drop me an email if you'd like to know more kane@sen3d.com Great suggestion on the BIQU B1 too! it's very similar to the ender 3 so I don't expect it would be too difficult mechanically. The challenge once again would probably be the screen etc. But I would be hopeful that as the BIQU makes that printer and also the SKR Pro that comes in the kit it may actually work really well....maybe this is an excuse for me to buy another printer for "testing" 😅😜

@@SEN3Dcom Yes, the BIQU B1 has an SKR 1.4 board and it uses the vaunted BTT TFT35 touchscreen. It would seem the kit for B1 would not need a new motherboard. The Ender Extender has no substantial changes other than dimensions and minor tweak to firmware to accommodate the larger dimensions.

@@douggjoseph super, the need for the SKR Pro is actually it's ability to drive 6 stepper motors (X1, X2, Y, Z, E1 and E2). Most standard board can only run 4 or 5 stepper motors. You are correct, I have quite a few existing customers on the 300xl and 400xl Ender Extender (just one that started out as an Ender 3 V2). A longer X-axis is needed to give X2 space to park off to the side and longer belts and cables for carriage 2 but otherwise it is a pretty simple change :)

I like the way you think. In principle it should work, the main additional requirements would be: longer X-axis extrusion (so E2 can part on the right side), longer belts, longer bowden tubes & longer cable extensions for the reach. It might also be a good idea to look into dual z steppers as the extra span is a lot of load on a single motor. But, this is also true for the Ender Extender kit even without IDEX 🙂

The extruder motor gets moved off the axis which offsets the addition of a second X-axis stepper motor for X2. When it comes to the carriage for hotend 2, it's constructed primarily from ABS which makes it strong, heat resistant but also light. So overall, it works great. Like the stock Ender 3, it wouldn't be a bad thing to add a second Z-stepper but it is not required at all for great results 🙂

Hi there, Great questions, broadly yes the kit should be applicable to most of the CR series. However, as you'll know there are so many models and variations I am still working on ways to make it "guaranteed" on as many as possible. In most cases the changes are mainly for the X-axis extrusion length and cable lengths. But for example some old CR-10s use a 12v power supply instead of 24v and I like to ensure I catch as many of these issues as possible 😇 I will soon be launching an "official CR-10" version of the kit but some of my amazing customers have already started building their own CR-10 or Ender Extender IDEX versions from the kit. So as long as you don't mind tinkering nothing should be insurmountable. Excellent question on prime towers. You are correct a 2 in 1 out hotend will need much more purging on a purge tower. This is not only to prime the nozzle but importantly to purge the other material/colour out. With an IDEX it's very much up to you, in many cases I would use a very tiny purge tower but this acts more like a skirt for each layer getting the flow going before it starts to print. maybe like 1 or 2 hollow rings before it can crack on with the printing. It is absolutely not a necessity to use a purge tower with an IDEX. It will depend a lot on things like your chosen holding temperature, material, retraction settings etc. In many cases you could use a purge bucket, maybe an ooze shield or for a large model just print from the "infill" first and let the initial couple of mm act as that "flow starter". The other big benefit of IDEX is that each nozzle can print a different material and not just colour, so you can try PETG with PLA supports (as the 2 don't stick very well). Or PVA dissolvable filament or even TPU & ABS for example. These king of mixes would be almost impossible via a single hotend or require enormous purge towers. Let me know if I can provide any further information or support 😁

@@SEN3Dcom Thank you for chatting with me on your website early Sunday morning.

Great question and short answer is yes! a fair few V2 users already have the IDEX kit installed (even some Ender 3 V2 Extenders too!). the only main differences are: >You need to replace the V2's screen, it doesn't play well with non-creality boards and loses tons of settings for IDEX specific features. Either a classic Ender 3 LCD or one of the BTT TFT touch screen work great. > The V2 does not have an XT60 power cable at the back so you need to screw the power cables directly into the power supply > The stock X-axis tensioner needs to be replaced as it's design blocks the mounting point for the X2's pulley arm If you're printing the kit yourself this is all quite easy to deal with and if you wish to buy a complete kit I have a V2 version that comes with a TFT35 and all the other chances needed to solve the above differences. Just check out the Alternative Kits section on the kit buy page here: 3d.plus/buy/ender-idex/#IDEX-alternative-kits 😁👍

Hi Lajos, Thank you so much for your kind feedback :) So yes, a BL touch absolutely is supported. Many of my customers already use the BL Touch and I have pre-compiled versions of the firmware for use with the kit. The only thing to think about is when you run a Duplicate or Mirror mode print, in this instance you will still need to manually level the bed as 2 hotends will be touching the bed at different points at the same time. You could still use the probe data from the BL Touch to help get a super accurate and level bed. I am working on and thinking about which printers to expand the kit to next. Prusa printers are high on the list as they are among the most popular...so watch this space! I also agree, there is a huge difference between a dual independent hotend IDEX system and a multi-colour, single nozzle system :)

The instructions refer to a Z limit switch. I don't have one of those because that function is provided by my CR Touch, also used for bed level mesh generation.

Hey Felix, Excellent question and on the face of it the Voxelab Aquila seems to have a very similar "Ender 3" style frame and components so I would expect it to work (obviously not a 100% guarantee). To be sure if the X-axis extrusion is 345mm long then it is identical to the Ender 3 and much more likely to work in exactly the same way. The only things that might be a tad different are the X-axis belt tensioner. To make space for the X2 pulley you may need to swap it for one that only attaches to the axis on one side. The screen may also need a bit of tinkering, does it work with stock Marlin? The kit uses a stick SKR Pro v1.2 so if the screen can work with that board then you should be fine. Otherwise it looks like it could be an excellent upgrade for sure! Maybe I'll have to get one soon to test it on 😉

Absolutely, Cura is great for slicing prints for IDEX. I will be releasing a video very soon on slicing prints for an IDEX printer (2 colour, duplicate and mirror modes). Watch this space 😉

Yes, the SKR Pro by Big Tree Tech which comes in the kit can run 2 Z-motors and actually has a socket built in for a second z motor so it would be quite to install :) I have not personally setup RepRap on the SKR Pro...yet 😉 But I am confident it is doable and hopefully without too many challenges. Videos like this one would be a great starting point: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZxoiJlz3N6soH0.html&ab_channel=ChrisRiley Alternatively, the IDEX kit is also not tied to a specific board, you'd just need to have a board capable of running 6 steppers (X1, X2, Y, Z, E1 & E2). So something else like a Duet should be just as possible to use.

You would need the SKR Pro board mainly as it can drive 6 stepper motors (X1, X2, Y, Z, E1 & E2). However I do sell just the X-axis for people that have the board or other setup they'd like to use it on. Drop me an email and I'd be happy to help: kane@sen3d.com

At the moment the MicroSwiss direct drive is not compatible. The reason is that the stepper for the MicroSwiss is mounted over the back of the carriage and this would be in the direct path of the belt for the new second carriage. I do hope to have a solution for this soon. However it should also be possible to use a direct drive that mounts the stepper motor on the front instead. I would also consider at this point adding a second z stepper too, to help with the extra weight on the axis. Not necessarily a requirement but a recommendation 🙂

Hey Bori, Thanks for your comment, sounds like you've got a great little project there. As you converted it to IDEX did you add another endstop switch on the far right of the X axis? Hotend 1 will home to the left and tap your original endstop. Hotend 2 will home to the right and tap the new X-Max endstop. Sorry if that's obvious but worth checking first.

@@SEN3Dcom Yes, all endstop ready, but now I see that the right motor have diferent step per mm than the left motor x. I belived that the x2 motor used the same x1 parameters.

@@boritech9016 Ah ok, so it's like X2 is reversed? Try Switching the cables to X1 and X2 and see if they go in the right/wrong direction. If X2 is reversed the easiest solution will be to flip the wires around. All you have to do is swap the 2 outside wires then swap the 2 inside wires. This will reverse the direction it turns.