Ayo drop the files if you figured it out, I also came to the realization when I tried to install on my direct drive v2

Are you talking about thing 4928888? to blow the air directly on to the hotend heatskink? I saw your remix to open the fan up, 👍 Thanks.

Good to hear. I didn’t actually make this design btw, all credit goes to the author in the link.

Hello Digital, can you explain what kind of modding. I really like this and would like to know if im savvy enough to do what needs to be done to fit on the aquila

@Chris_6 sure you do. I use tinkercad and fusion for my cad work. But for this, I needed to wire in one more 24v fan. I had some replacements, and so I had to splice in the 24v power supply for the fan already in the factory hotend. It's not overly complicated but could burn your printer down or get electrocuted if not done right. There are lots of videos and guides online to help anybody who wants to do some upgrades.

@Chris_6 The Aquila was effectively an ender3v2 clone, so most ender parts fit.

Nah, if one fan fails, then the other wont be far behind, just replace both they are low cost.

@@TheWeepingCorpse holy 1 year post reply Batman 😂

Thanks!

@@mattpker printing them now :)

wich jst ? 🤔 there are more type and now i have the wrong one's 😌

JST is a brand name, not a style of a connector

Thanks for the kind comments! I hope it works for your Voxelab Aquila.

How did you get on? I added a Hero Me to my Aquila a while ago and 2 Winsin blower fans and wired it up just like this video shows; worked fine, FOR A WEEK then the PVC wire totally melted; almost set on fire. I replace the main wire with high temp 18 AWG wire up to the point it split to th 2 fans..worked fine..but now the printer stops after about 20 mins an reboots..even when the fan speed it very low (less than 20%). Have you seen the same thing?

The front fan is in there so tight. It’s not going anywhere. Been using it flawlessly now for over 6 months. Also PLA+ has been fine, no warping at all.

Did you do it yet?

@@urgamecshk Yes, I printed it in PLA 1-2 months ago and it performs pretty well. It's more quiet than the stock shroud while getting a better airflow, and I didn't have problems with it deforming even when printing hot materials like ASA. Do keep an eye out for warping though, as warped edges can hit the cooling fan duct if it's bad enough. There isn't really a need to coat the shroud in something heat resistant, although that would probably make it last longer.

I've been running a PLA+ Santana Printer fan remix on one of my printers for more and a year with no issues.

It is amazing to me how much quieter the Voxelab Aquilla gets with a printer fan cover vs the stock. I printed one ( a Santana remix) of my ender3v2 for my first Vox and it was a huge difference on loudness. The factory fan setup is really loud. lol.

The bed still needs to be as level as possible and it will compensate for slight warping, but if the warp is really bad you should just get a new bed.

Splice it in with the hot end cooler. Not the filament cooler. You could also get some passive heat sinks for NEMA 17 motors.

If I had to guess, 24v fans should be wired in parallel so they stay 24v. If you have 12v fans you wire them in series so the 24v supply is split between them.

You can! I‘m using the stock heatsink fan with this design.

It allows me to run the fans at 50% which is much quieter plus it seems there is less stringing because it hits it from both sides.

This isn’t my design, sorry.

The BL touch is hardly blocking any air flow, it still blows very strong. And the part cooling is cooling from both sides now, so yes it is improved. I have been seeing less stringing then previously and I can run the fans at 50% speed for less noise.

I used eSun PLA+ with default Cura settings. Maybe your having bad layer adhesion? Try increasing the printing temperature. Some people forget with PLA+ you need to up it from 200c to 210c.

I’m pretty sure you have to use 24v fans, unless you get a buck converter to convert the voltage to 12v. The winsinn kit I linked in the video description works and is 24v.

Danny, that's not how voltage in parallel works with a load like a fan. If you wire two 12vdc fans in parallel to 24vdc, both fans will see 24vdc and they'll both be damaged. Same goes with series. There's a small voltage drop across the fan but likely they'll still be damaged. Unless you want to get a converter for 24 to 12vdc, you have to use 24vdc fans and wire them in parallel. They'll both see 24V and the board will supply current to both appropriately.

You could wire 2 12v fans in series, and that would effectively "split" the voltage between the two. However, this does potentially create other issues. For example, if one fan wears a little faster than the other, the voltage required to spin the fan will become increasingly different. As one fan pulls more voltage, the other fan will receive less. In the same way, if one fan fails, the other will get the full 24v and get fried, too. Best option: use fans rated for the proper voltage. (In the case of the Ender 3, that's 24v. You can confirm this with a tester, or check the internals. It's usually printed on there. Next best: Install buck converters to reduce the voltage to 12v. This also introduces additional issues/concerns that I won't get into here, but you can do some research and find them out. Worst option: use 2 12v fans wired in series. Impossible option: Connect your hotend to a radiator fan from a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 🙂 Good luck with your mods!

@@daviddeyoung5710 How can I get the All Wheel Differential Drive out of the 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and into my dual gear extruder? I need more power! Wiring in parallel is essentially like buying old Christmas Tree lights at Wal Mart, in the 1990's. The fluorescent bulbs will continue to receive power if one bulb goes out. A series, however, is when one xmas light bulb goes out and the whole series of the colorful lights will not power.

@@mattpker Did you wire the 2 fans parallel?? You know that this means that the final load is 12 v ?

or is it recommended to use a blower fan if you want to have your 3d printer silent?

It has been fine with eSun PLA+ so far.

I’ve used paramount pla and it works fine. No warping or melting and I’ve had some very long prints on it and print at 230C

At 10 minutes into the video I explain this. No I didn't change the model, but I did have to shave down the CR Touch so it didn't hit the fan blades.

It is still holding up over a year later.

Nope. Maybe try tightening it all down? You might have just got a bad fan that is off axis or something.

No warping in over 6 months. Has been working perfectly.

@@mattpker Thx for the update. Going to print these tomorrow morning.

@@TheDepep1 good luck, let us know how it goes!

No, the fan on the front isn’t a blower fan.

Yes I run it at 50% fan speeds now.

@@mattpker do you change the voltage on the board or its not needed?

@@alexguertin7261 no

Same problem here.Did you find the solution ?

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4897631

I wonder why that is: I am using this shroud for around half a year and I literally had to reduce the part cooling to 50%.

@@Schnabulation not sure either… the duct was a very very tight fit for my blower fans but that should be good… couldn’t find any leaks that could be causing it. I’ll probably try to figure it out again soon

I didn’t need any extra screws, every screw you remove you use for this new shroud / fans. I explain in the video where the screws go.

Because it’s two blowers, you can turn the fan speed down to 50% and it is much quieter.

@@mattpker did you have to change the voltage somewhere ?

@@alexguertin7261 no I did not

No sorry

No, only the Ender 3 v2 backplate.

It works with the mount that comes with the CR Touch.

Good to know. I bought taps and a set of small metric cap head screws and nuts. Every one should have these on hand for building.

I do not know, but probably not.

@@mattpker thanks !

No, I don’t think it will work for the original Ender 3. The backplate is different.

@@mattpker damn, now I'm finishing printing, I'm going to have to adapt it somehow. do you know how to do this?

@@Smokegeekcustom I don't have the original ender 3, so I have no clue. Sorry.

No, the bracket holding the hotend is different on the Pro. This will only work on the v2.

@@mattpker there's literally not 1 design for the ender 3 pro with double 4010 fans, it's so frustrating

I’ve modified this to fit a Ender 3 pro.

imgur.com/a/z3KnG8y

​@@Br0d0n where can i find your mod 🤔

No, the backplate is different on the Ender 3 pro. This will only work for the Ender 3 V2.

@@mattpker But with some modifications to the backplate, could it work?

@@fidonol I really don’t know, sorry man.

Model what? It’s and Ender 3 v2 as stated in the title and there is a link to buy the fans in the description.

Just screw them all the way in. They should be longer then the hole, that way they grip and stay in.

I made Satsana cooling from PLA, everything is fine, there were no PLA temperature problems

Has to be 24v, otherwise you have to get a buck converter to change it to 12v.