another great video, i have the same printer with crealitys silent mainboard and ive been having some issues with infill adhesion like yourself, i hadn't thought about checking the stepper voltages but from what you've shown its probably a good idea for me th check. thanks for the heads up on that mate

Glad I could help! Thanks for the feedback!

Did you have to adjust the stepper driver voltages?

I didn’t adjust anything. It just seemed to work straight away. I’m keeping an eye on it though and will tweak if needed.

@@williamtaylor2807 most of the time you dont need to adjust the stock values. Even when adding a direct driver to my printer I didn't need increase the voltage for the extruder motor even after I added an extra 1.5 ft of wire extension. Same thing with adding TL smoothers and the adapter cables that come with it for X & Y axis.

Terrific! I'm glad it went so well!

Thank you and I'm really glad it helped!

Thanks for the terrific feedback David! From everything i hear, TH3D makes a great board and has terrific service. I'm glad you're happy with the setup!

Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback!

I'm impressed with those values. It's odd that they're coming with different settings.

@@kerseyfabs mine were also around 1.3V, with E0 at 1.5, so left them like that, will test how it goes

it prints ;)

@@kerseyfabs - I have 5 Pots on my board, assuming Pot 1, 2, 3 are X, Y, Z respectively, Pot 4 = E? When I dial that pot as you show it appears to cut off at 1.23V then goes 0V if I turn further. I didnt want to push it so left it at 1.23V Pot 5 = ? Second Extruder option?

The factory default on my silent board ended up coming in at 1.2, 1.2, 1.6 and 1.4 volts. I had been having problems with a loud "thunk" and a layer shift on long prints. I think lowering the voltages down today thanks to this video above to 0.6, 0.66, 1.0 and leaving the Extruder at 1.4 Volts will help. I falsely assumed that the Vrefs would be set at the factory and really I shouldn't have made that assumption. It is Creality after all. They're cheap.

Very good comment. I purchased ferrules and a special crimper, even beter

Awesome Will! Congrats on the upgrade and thanks for the comment!

Whats your final X,Y,Z.E voltage?

Glad I could help! Please check out my new series on 32-bit board upgrades: kzfaq.info/sun/PL4dGkbjUvBzrhR53vf2ZbYrxCr84uBwJ1

Thanks Lance! I think the Pro is a better option than the regular Ender 5. I still think the 5 Plus is a great printer as long as you go into it with eyes open. Enjoy!

@@kerseyfabs thanks again. I will continue to watch and do research. I'm hoping to have a KZfaq channel myself soon. From a beginner's aspect though CNC. My goal has always been to do CNC Plasma cutting. I just cant afford it though. I'm hoping to learn and document enough CNC that I can build my own. I'm a year away from retirement so I thought I'd get started with a 3d printer and get good enough it it that I can build a lazer engraver and just keep moving up. I've got a horizontal mill I'd like to refinish and turn into a CNC and I just bought a Phoenix GS CAD router that I'm going to have fun upgrading. I love all the upgrades you do on your machines. They look so professional.

Thanks for the feedback.

Great to hear! Happy printing!

I'm so sorry to disappoint! One step at a time. 😅

Man, I’m super ready for that little mod!

@@raabaman I have the 1.4 turbo board with 2209s, I'm just waiting for Kris to show me how to set it up properly. :-) I'm going to do some test flashing today, but it's not a drop-in like the board in this video. The SD / USB ports don't line up. So now I need to figure out a way to fit that in a different spot, and somehow cram my Raspberry Pi in there too. Lord how I wish that metal PSU case was just 2 inches wider on each side!!

Yes, all of the firmware releases for this printer will work on both boards. Check out the videos on my channel for the latest firmware I released that fixes the probe offset issue.

Can you provide a link to what you ordered?

@@kerseyfabs This is the board I ordered: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PFVMCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Edit: My apologies if this is not the same board. I am a mechanical engineering project manager by trade but am new to the 3D printing world.

That's always my goal!

If you're not overheating, then you can leave them there. I personally would bring them down though. 👍

did you ever find a solution im flashing and no luck

@@rickrojas5059 so far the only fix was going back to V1. 70.2BL.

I had a similar problem, except my board wasn't pre-flashed so I got the most current firmware from the Creality website and it did the same thing. I found the original 1.70.1 drivers and DWIN on another Kersey video and that fixed the problem. I found in a few other places that Creality just hasn't fixed this issue yet or released anything I could find that fixes it.

If your board isn't booting because it's bad then yes. If your board isn't booting because the firmware's gone screwy, then flashing the firmware is easier.

If it's a silent board, probably so. I'm not 100% sure though since I haven't compared board schematics.

It's possible you're getting a board with no firmware or wrong firmware. Flash the board with my firmware or Creality's.

@@kerseyfabs I tried flashing the firmware, no change. This is the second board I've ordered and they both did the same thing.

@@cliffchaffee If everything's powering on and the firmware's flashing correctly, the only thing left is the 10-pin data cable being oriented the right way.

Coming soon! This is for people that don't want to mess with firmware.

Ugh! Yeah, that can be a real pain! Good luck!

Most of the time. It's suppose to. Check with the provider though.

Sorry to hear about your frustrations. That honestly shouldn't be the case given this is pretty straight-forward. Can you be more specific about what you're seeing?

@@kerseyfabs Thanks for your quick answer! I think I did a beginners mistake and installed the whole kit at once. My Silent Board came with a capricorn tube and new nozzles. I skipped the nozzles but installed the new bowden tube and after some tests yesterday I think that might be the problem. I removed it and measured the Filament pushed by the extruder without the tube attached and it was pretty acurate (about 2mm off). But with the tube attached it was more like 40mm off. The print looks like some kind of underextrusion is going on. There are visible lines where to less filament was extruded on the benchy and the chimney broke off, after I touched it a bit, because the layers didn't bond well. I think, I'll try to use the old tubing again (I hope I didn't damage it on removal), but I still have no idea, why the new tubing that came with the board isn't working.

Fantastic!

Glad you liked it! Thanks!

It sounds like a fun project but given the price of a Bigtreetech board, you could only justify it for fun. 😆

I think some resellers may offer it but it doesn't come that way from Creality.

Technically yes but you would need custom firmware. I don't have that available at this time.

@@kerseyfabs OK, thank you

I actually don't think that the E stepper driver is going to heat up that much more than the other steppers. After all, it doesn't move as fast as the others and shouldn't draw as much power. The stepper driver is limiting the stepper motor because of the way it operates and provides a signal.

Yes. It works on both boards.

That's really odd. Is it booting all the way up or is it stopping on the loading screen?

@@kerseyfabs I found the problem! During my installation of they silent board, it looks like I accidentally lossened the ribbon cable that connects the TS sensor to the TS board. I reconnected the cable and locked it in place and now my printer is running smooth like butter 👌 Thanks Kersey!

- The drivers on the board are completely different, so the voltages needed will not the same between the two. - Yes, you do need to redo Z-offset and bed leveling. All settings on the old board go with it, so you'll need to set everything up again. - It's possible your PID tune and e-steps will be the same between boards but you might as well re-calibrate just in case.

@@kerseyfabs Thanks for the response. My question re: specifically z-offset and e-steps is that they're based on static, mechanical factors of the printer; those *shouldn't* change between boards, unless somehow the stock and quiet boards are calculating distances, and therefore controlling the steppers, differently. Or the voltages delivered to the steppers differ, which is why I thought grabbing them before changing the board might make things easier. Bed-leveling is of course a given, in that any time you turn a frame screw (never mind 4 of them to remove the PS/controller housing) you change the geometry of the frame. I'm just sitting here thinking how nice it would be to issue an M503, clean its output up a bit, and feed it back in after the board swap. Save it with an M500, level the bed, and you're back in business 😉😁

Most likely, it's the black/white wires coming from the BLtouch. Double check that connection and that it's going to the right pins.

Yeah. I never changed it and others have used it too.

@@kerseyfabs With E0= 1.4v, I am getting 160 to 180 degrees on a 3hr print. What max temperature should one see on the black part of the case for an E5P NEMA 17 extruder motor? Do you run heatsinks or /and a fan on your extruder motors?

@@gdesign123 That's 70C which is just at the max temp I'd run the motor at. If it we me, I'd decrease the voltage to 1.3V and see if that cools them down enough.

@@kerseyfabs Thank you for all you have done for the community, you are amazing. :)

@@kerseyfabs E0= 1.2v dropped the temp to 45 (114) to 64(147), not skipping so I am going to keep it here. Thanks again for fixing an issue I did not know I had.

I just commented on your GitHub issue. Sorry for the delay. There's no need to post this in so many places. I am unable to enable this on the Ender 5 Plus with the stock display: #error "ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE currently requires an LCD controller." If you'd like to switch out the touchscreen for the standard 12864 display (amzn.to/2Q2ZNfP), I could build a version of firmware for that. Then you could at least keep the stock board. Sorry.

Glad it helped! I don't yet have a good replacement for at least medium loudness fans. My recommendation is to buy a good fan (I'll post links below to my choices) and just lower the speed on your part cooling fan through your slicer. Air has to move around these components and if it gets too little, you'll have clogs and ugly prints. WINSINN 40mm Fan 24V Dual Ball Bearing: amzn.to/3ldFEoc WINSINN 50mm Blower Fan 24V 5015 Dual Ball Bearing: amzn.to/3ie3mi9

I really appreciate the feedback. From what I heard, this is a problem with the latest display firmware. You can check Creality's site to see if there's a version of DWIN_SET (the display's firmware) that may fix it.

Thank you! You *may* be able to quiet it down marginally by tweaking the voltages but it probably isn't worth the effort for the gain. Other than the steppers, the boards are identical. The only real upgrade path using the stock or silent board is to replace the stock touch screen with a more traditional LCD and replace the firmware. TH3D has the parts and firmware to do this. You can find more information on that here: www.th3dstudio.com/product/ender-5-plus-12864-lcd-upgrade-kit/?share=KerseyFabs I'll be doing a video soon on replacing the board and LCD with a couple of different 3rd-party options.

Awesome. Look forward to that content. Yeah, as far as the 4988s it would obviously depend on whether anything can be gained at all, and how much. Can one swap out the steppers on the stock board, or are they embedded?

@@BeyondFunction1 Someone with the right equipment and skills could technically do it but they are soldered on to the board.

Absolutely. It's been a journey for the best prints possible. I'm trying to have the next steps out within a few days.

Does the BLtouch retract at all when it hits the bed or does it smash straight through it? Double check the black/white wire.

I know what you mean about PID tuning. I saw my temperature dipping a bit so I raised it to compensate. That didn't help though in all situations. Squishing in the first layer and rapid extrusions were more often the cause.

I also checked esteps and out of the box it was underextruding not over.

Ah gotcha. I literally just did this mod this morning. Still working on tweaking things myself!

I wouldn't try to make them silent myself. Silent fans, in general, don't cool as well as ones that make noise, especially in the smaller sizes. You can buy some higher quality fans though which should make less noise: amzn.to/36nIySw and amzn.to/3tBq2yB

In this video I was primarily focusing on the use case that most people will be looking for, which is just swapping the board out and what sort of differences you could expect to see. I'm surprise I didn't mention that in passing but, again, that wasn't the focus. Also, when this video was released, we didn't have official source for this board, so I wasn't touching the firmware yet myself. If you watch the latest series on the SKR boards, I actually do more of an in depth comparison of the boards and do talk about the added stepper driver.

@@kerseyfabs I appreciate the work you are doing , and thank you for your prompt response, as well as the leads.

You can usually peel them off. I've also heard isopropyl alcohol can help.

I've had requests for it but no time yet. I'll keep it in my list.

It should only turn blue when extended. If not, check both of the connectors. It's probably the black/white connector.

@@kerseyfabs thanks for replying i really appreciate it.

I don't know what the LEDs on the board indicate off the top of my head. It's possible for the firmware to get corrupted but difficult to recover if the board won't talk to the computer. You could try and contact Creality.

@@kerseyfabs Thanks. I managed to sort it out via Creality. Still don't know what the led indicate, but I managed to flash the firmware with the old 1.2.3 slicer.

Thomas, my apologies for the lack of a timely response. This one was relatively involved and I don't like to give half answers. The resisters do play a part in max voltage but they aren't comparable between the A4988 and TMC2208 steppers. I talked to Creality about max voltages and was told 1.4V. So I stuck with the manufacturer recommendations (or close to it) for my video.

@@kerseyfabs It would be nice if this info was added to your list of text info for the video and what your final numbers were set to for reference. Thanks for all the good work.

Forgot to mention the silent board is the official creality board ...and I have the printer 1 month now I use the printer almost every day and everything was perfect before I installed the silent board

nvm got it working

If you're unsure about proper voltages, change them back to defaults and then decrease the Y stepper voltage by .1V until you see good results OR it causes issues. Find a happy medium.

Yes they are. Same method. Different values.

Disclaimer: I have not ordered this board myself. I do not know which firmware comes on it. You may have to reflash it. Here was the only board that I could find in stock that looked correct: amzn.to/2xu3lC0 Comgrow on Amazon sometimes carries these board but I haven't tested theirs either. Creality does get these back in stock frequently, just in small batches. Best of luck finding one soon!

I've heard that this could be a sign of bad grounding. If you don't know how to check this, check out my fill Ender 5 Plus review under the Power Supply section: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6h2iMlpuJyRdnk.html

figured it out. i plugged the bltouch into the fourth row not the third row. :(

@@williamtaylor2807 Good to know. Good to hear you got it working.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aJ2PlZudzr_Nnok.html

I didn't have any issues with it slamming into the endstop. Make sure the endstop wire is separated from the others. Sometimes there's noise on the line.

Congrats! I love the Ender 5 Pro as a first printer. It's easy to assemble and comes pre-upgraded. I'd only suggest the Plus if you needed the extra volume.

I hope it helps out. I am also making it a point to switch to Micro Swiss hot ends just for the sake of switching out the nozzles which I do more and more often.

For anyone else interested, I found my factory default values to be 1.2, 1.2, 1.6 and 1.4 volts for XYZ and E in that order. This might explain why after a long enough print time I would get a loud thunk sound and a stepper would suddenly jerk (Usually the Y stepper, I think, but I am not certain of this). This underscores the importance of not just installing the SIlent Board upgrade as if it were plug and play but to actually set the Vrefs at that time. I erroneously assumed that the Vrefs would be close enough to use it and I could just adjust it later. I see, now, that I should have changed them right away. I think I did try to find the Vrefs when I went to install my board and your video wasn't out yet and I didn't easily find the specs, but I probably should have contacted Creality directly for that info. Seeing how incredibly high the voltages were to begin with, I settled on 0.66, 0.7, 1.0, and 1.4 volts for XYZ and E. X and Y are a little higher current, but seeing how the printer ran at 1.2V for X and Y for so long and didn't have problems until I started getting into really long prints, I think this will be okay. I will pay careful attention to my stepper motor temperature on long prints now. They were definitely warm before, but I didn't measure it. I'll be sure to measure the temperatures and keep a better eye on it. Kersey, Your video was extremely helpful to me. Thank you!

I'm really glad you found all of this useful and I hope the new voltages work well for you on your print. Please let us know how it does.

@@underourrock Thanks for your comment. After a few years, are you happy with your voltage settings? I got my E5+ about this time this video was released, but was able to unbox it and use it only a few months ago and am catching up. Thanks to you and Kersey for the info.

@@skyrider4789 I'm using Insanity Automation's / TM3D firmware on a SKR 1.4 Turbo board. I set my stepper currents through firmware or gcode commands now. It is a much more powerful board. From what I recall the voltages with a slight bump on the double z helped, but I'm glad I upgraded boards. I've also done a direct drive extruder and it's great.

Hey, I'm sorry for any anxiety! I only report what I find. I've heard plenty of reports of "no problem, works out of the box." I'm really happy to hear that. The new board is news to me. I'll check in with Creality and see what I can find. Thanks!

The clicking is not a voltage issue. Assuming he has his extruder e-steps calibrated correctly then he has the nozzle too close to the bed. When that happens, it does not let the filament out quickly enough for the filament his stepper is trying to feed in. This puts a lot of strain on the extruder stepper motor and the clicking is the extruder gear digging into the filament trying to compress the backed-up filament. If he goes back to his z offset and raises it a bit, it will let the filament flow and the clicking will stop. You cannot compress a liquid (even if it is plastic) so you must slow down the feed or open the gap. No power changes are needed.

I'm sorry. I don't have that setup available to take the measurement. You usually can increase it in 0.1V increments or even 0.2V as long as your motors aren't too hot. I don't know the max voltage though.

@@kerseyfabs it's OK, and thanks. The problem manifested when I changed to a dual spur gear extruder and that stalled the stepper. I had an old Bondtech extruder so I switched to it and that solved the problem without upping the stepper current.

Yeah, I've thought about figuring out voltages on the stock board but I haven't had a chance. I never had any problems with the settings in this video.

It sounds like your BLtouch wires (probably the 3-pin) are not correct. Double check those and make sure they're right.

Yes. It works great.

Are you sure you're on the right website? I don't see a 2.1 board on the official website. Here's my link from the description: bit.ly/E5PSilentBoard

Yes! More boards are coming in a couple/few weeks, depending on how much time I have to devote to it and how well it goes. There are people working on the existing touchscreen but I don't plan to save it given that other displays offer so much more functionality.

Kersey Fabrications ok good to know. When you connect the new board could you just try to plug the original screen anyway? Without giving it too much attention, just to see what happeneds :)

Not that I'm aware of. It's in high demand and it's difficult for them to keep it in stock. I just ordered a couple of weeks ago.

A couple of things: 1) The steppers are soldered on the mainboard. So unless you have serious soldering skills, it's not very feasible. 2) There are other components on the board such as resistors that would also have to be changed out. 3) Check out my new video series on how to use Bigtreetech components to upgrade the printer. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orGJaNyem9uVZ58.html I hope this helps.

Thanks, Kersey! :)

Have you set your acceleration and jerk settings inside of Cura? If not, then that may be where the differences are coming from.