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FAST Core-XY Ender 5 Plus! Mercury One.1 Build
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Күн бұрынTo try everything Brilliant has to offer-free-for a full 30 days, visit brilliant.org/... . The first 200 of you will get 20% off Brilliant’s annual premium subscription.
My Creality Ender 5 Plus was my most reliable printer... so I tore it apart! Let's build a @ZeroG3D Mercury One.1 out of my old trusty Ender 5+ 3d printer! Core-XY like a Voron or RatRig, CAN toolboard from BigTreeTech, an E3D High Flow hotend and so much more! Will it be a beast of a 3D printer? Or a beast of a burden?
My FREE STL Designs for this build: thangs.com/des...
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Please consider supporting by checking out my various links:
www.mandicreal...
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Parts for this Build (some Affiliate Links):
*** @lore2486 Mercury One.1 Kit: tinyurl.com/Me...
*** @ldomotorsjason3488 Orbiter V2.0 Extruder: tinyurl.com/Or...
*** @bigtreetech5117 SKR3EZ Board: shrsl.com/48vrl
*** @bigtreetech5117 EBB36 Toolboard: shrsl.com/48vrm
*** @E3DOnline Revo Six Hotend: e3d-online.com...
*** @E3DOnline Revo High Flow: e3d-online.com...
*** @preciseprinterparts6355 Bed: preciseprinter...
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Filmed with:
*** Main Camera: amzn.to/3c6ULgV
*** Main Lens: amzn.to/3c616cp
*** Overhead Camera: amzn.to/2U4b1nZ
*** Video Recorder Used: amzn.to/3ymN90U
*** Action Camera: amzn.to/2ATHS73
*** Second Camera: amzn.to/371EhBM
*** B-Roll Lens: amzn.to/2xmg85L
*** Wide Angle Lens: amzn.to/2YiZTmH
*** Slider: amzn.to/3nGZ1Uh
*** Lav Mic: amzn.to/2DFwgR5
*** Shotgun Mic: amzn.to/2IjTJiB
*** Mini Tripod: amzn.to/2Eok8Fw
*** Monopod - amzn.to/2C1YEMU
*** Tripod: amzn.to/2yASruf
*** Gimbal: amzn.to/2FNwesV
*** Primary Lighting: amzn.to/2jHROnW
*** Additional Lighting: amzn.to/2DImspx
*** RGB Lights: amzn.to/2UUGAOk
*** Drone: amzn.to/2yDkwkI
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This video was sponsored by Brilliant
The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
#3dprinter #mercuryone #ender5plus
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
FINALLY RELEASE THE FILES!! You can find all the files I designed for this build available on my Thangs page now: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally
@SHOLAR_RACING 4 ай бұрын
Do you have the files for the toolhead? I’m getting ready to do the mercury 1 on my ender 5 plus and I’m going to be using the orbiter 2.0 with the revo quick change. Thanks for any insight
@bongsurfer 11 ай бұрын
Now that the hype for Bambu style printers is settling down and with more access to high speed multi material printers, I love seeing pimping older printers. It feels like modding cars or computers. Honestly, this build looks great. I really enjoyed the video 👏🏻
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
Honestly at ERRF this weekend some folks and I were talking, I likened printing to cars. We will see a lot of people moving forward happy with their Civics, while some of us will keep on buildinghotrods.
@DakotaTrucker 8 ай бұрын
Exactly the sentiment I expressed the other day on a FB group. Someone was whining about people "wasting their money modding their printers, just go buy a Bambu" on an Ender 3 page. I told them to think about it like buying a Camry or building a hotrod or kit car. That for some folks it's about the building.
@granthultman2914 6 ай бұрын
@@DakotaTrucker As a Voron fan boy I compare myself to being one of those people who builds tiny ships inside bottles... it's not for everyone but it's my hobby! Cool video!
@MidMadn 11 ай бұрын
Awesome Job. I had that same extremely slow response problem with my 5+ - Mercury 1.1 conversion with a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo and Pi4. On occasion I got a low voltage warning and also a throttling warning. It seemed to be a problem with this Pi4 that I bought new. I tried everything to fix it. I switched it out with the Pi4 on my Ender 6. The problem followed the Pi to my 6. I tried a new class 10 MicroSd card. Fresh install of rasbian-lite / Mainsail. Multiple power adaptors. Powering it through the USB-C. I even bought the Meanwell RS25-5 110vac to 5vdc power supply just like yours. I this time tried powering through the GPIO pins. Same problem. I tested the output and it was exactly 5.0 volts. I found a thread on reddit where someone was having the same problem. The only thing that fixed it for them was to increase the supplied voltage to 5.7 volts. The Pi4 is rated for up to 5.5 volts so this person was pushing it a bit. Supposedly 5.5 volts did not cure the problem but 5.7 did. I turned my voltage on my Meanwell RS25-5 to 5.6 volts and it runs perfect now. Nice and snappy like my other Pi4. I'm not sure why this one seems to need a little more voltage but I figured I had nothing to lose as it just wasn't any fun when it was taking forever to respond to any input. I agree on the EVA 2.4 not being the most appealing tool head. I found the EVA 3.0 to be quite a bit more eye pleasing. There's a special version of the EVA 3.0 customised for the Mercury 1. jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/ Any chance you will be sharing any of your designed parts? I'm mostly interested in the Z chain setup assuming it would work with the stock 5 plus bed. Thank You for all your content and help.
@Duckferd 11 ай бұрын
5.7 might be ok depending on the length of wire, because there is also voltage droop (you would have to test voltage output at the end of the cable).
@riktanius 10 ай бұрын
I am using the E34M1 and it is great. The setup is really fleshed out and includes ABL options for nearly every option out there. Highly recommended. I also am hoping to see those parts out there, as I am building out another M1 and would love to reinforce my machine.
@217RockStar217 7 ай бұрын
Thank you SOOO much for that link!!!
@JonLaRue 10 ай бұрын
I love the "it's so reliable let's tear it apart" lol
@janbroz4681 12 күн бұрын
trick for the pins an bearings, put the bearings on bed of a printer set to 50°C an pout the pins into a freezer. Should fit just fine without sanding.
@nonchalanto 11 ай бұрын
FYI, the SKR 3 EZ has an onboard IC that supplies 5V at a high enough current to power a raspberry pi. Just tap into any free 5V pin on the board (like on the EXP ports, or WiFi adapter, detection ports, etc) and your pi will be powered automatically once you turn it on. No need for a separate PSU! I’m doing that on my build and it works perfectly.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
I'll use the 5v rail on the board for LED strips at some point on this build. I tried using the EXP port for UART connection to the Pi on ReAniMaker and had no luck at all with it, so I didn't even start down that path this time.
@fgil45 7 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally Clean DC for each device separately is much better, for me, in audio it is very noticeable
@drwhang 11 ай бұрын
I have always struggled to see a use for multicolor prints because I am not very interested in printing figurines but I can admit it looks vastly better with the black accents versus how I imagine it would be with only the pink you chose. A+ grade on your modded parts too, I can only imagine the hours in F360 that are behind those little touches. Awesome Vid.
@Duraltia 10 ай бұрын
Single Tool Head 3D Printers with MMU capability are not just handy for Multicolored 3D Prints but are also a boon when it comes to 3D printing parts that require Supports as they allow you to print the _Support Interface Layer_ ( the last 1-2 Layers between the Supports and the actual Part ) with a compatible but different secondary Material that will still _stick_ to primary Material used for both the Supports *_AND_* the actual Print but will not _bond_ to it even when used without the usual 1 layer clearance Gap thus resulting in decently smooth finishes on the Underside and by _only_ printing the SIL with a different material you'll omit the need of constant and very time intensive material Swaps ( not a concern for an IDEX but that's a different story ) until you reach the layer where you actually need it.
@richpaul6806 10 ай бұрын
As the other commenter pointed out, it can be very handy for support material. Another use would be to have text in a contrasting color. I plan to print out some trays soon and I would like to label them so I know what is in each one. Without multiple colors, the text would be nearly impossible to read. I could use some nail polish or paint on the raised text but the second material will not wear off over time.
@steev182 Ай бұрын
I have an Ender 5 Pro with a Microswiss Direct Drive/All metal hotend, but haven't used for a couple of years. I dusted it off, added a Sonicpad and had a horrible time even getting it to extrude right. Got mad and bought an X1 Carbon. But I don't want to throw the Ender 5 Pro out. This is inspiring me to build it up as a Mercury One.1, especially now I have a reliable printer to print the parts for it!
@xetranok6391 29 күн бұрын
This upgrade is awesome and there is amazing documentation now. No issues at all with this project
@SuperCinemaCraft 26 күн бұрын
I just ordered most parts from the description, hopefully will get started here shortly
@cheetahkid 11 ай бұрын
Love the pink one! I got my Mercury one.1 for at least 2 months now. For now with other 13 printers on top. Mercury one.1 is my favorite.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
I’m excited to use it and give it a thorough run, but my initial impressions are super positive.
@RathOX 6 ай бұрын
I really want to see an enclosure built for it like how people have made a P1P companion cube etc
@muuzen7731 11 ай бұрын
How convenient, I just finished my Mercury One build a couple days ago. Was going to do the serial request today or tomorrow. I love the Mercury One.1 and Hydra Mod, and since it was my first DIY build it'll always hold a special place in my heart
@Heretic_Dezign 10 ай бұрын
You just gotta love the 100% plug'n'play nature of the Duet hardware with their superior canbus (can FD) protocol on the LC-1 toolboard
@anthonymartinez9682 11 ай бұрын
Damn , I get so motivated to push my builds further after watching this.
@AlphaKennyBuddy 7 ай бұрын
The cable management is insane! Would really love to see a video tutorial about how you did them.
@NottsKnots 16 күн бұрын
Your Ender 5 is starting to remind me of a Portal Companion cube.
@afkafkafk 5 ай бұрын
One thing to add E5Ps is backlash nuts on the z screws, I added some POM ones and Z tilt adjust in Klipper takes maybe a single attempt before its done, the brass ones wobbled terribly and drifted on power offs
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
I didn't draw attention to it, but I did install some POM Anti-Backlash nuts, you can see them at 25:38
@afkafkafk 5 ай бұрын
@@MandicReallyperfect, your build is basically perfect
@afkafkafk 5 ай бұрын
@@MandicReallyHave you had any belt grinding issues on your build, I built mine ages ago but been having issues with belts riding up on the pulleys and shredding my gates belt
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
@@afkafkafk No issues for me. I'm fairly sure somewhere along the line they improved belt alignment as one of the design updates before it came out of Beta.
@johboh 11 ай бұрын
It's beautiful! I enjoy these build videos, keep em coming.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
Thank you very much. Glad the suffering is worth it. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
@SianaGearz 3 ай бұрын
Trinamic drivers shouldn't have trouble with cooling in their normal lay down StepStick configuration. This is because the IC die is bonded to a thermal pad at the bottom of the IC enclosure, and then soldered and via stitched to the "back" side of the PCB, so that's copper and tin channels, which is the top side, where the heatsink is attached, so thermal impedance of the heatsink connection is fairly low. On the top side of the IC, bottom side of the StepStick board, the IC is covered with an enclosure made of black epoxy which doesn't allow much cooling, very high thermal impedance. A large heatsink doesn't exactly go to waste. I know it looks weird and inefficient heatsinking the IC like that through the opposite side of glass fibre plastic PCB, but it is really an engineered in solution and performs heaps better than it looks. Indeed the intended use is worse, with cooling just into some large PCB planes. Still, i prefer to have some airflow through underneath the drivers, just a little bit. Even just convection airflow. I'm not too picky about it.
@othoapproto9603 Ай бұрын
the slow commands are due to the pink long frequency. Try blue it's shorter.
@tech_world_modz 6 ай бұрын
Do a update video and post some of the links to the parts you used.....I so bad want to see this finished
@slightlylifted 11 ай бұрын
Fantastic build and video. Still loving the new focus on longer videos. Always a great watch. Thanks, man!!
@rachaelb9164 7 ай бұрын
I usually don’t love pink but the light pink and black theme looks really nice.
@Gryfang451 11 ай бұрын
For the laggy Pi4 - Switch to something like a Sandisk Ultra Fit and change the boot method to USB (Available in the Pi Imager). Micro SD cards are garbage for running an OS, which could be the problem. Second, does that Pi have a heatsink on the chip and a fan to cool it? If not, then I would consider adding those as your build plate is heating up the surrounding air, and may be causing the processor to slow down due to high temps.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
Heat sinks on the chip, memory, & usb controller and a 40mm fan constantly blowing directly on the board. The Pi runs cool even with the bed hot. I run my 2.4 off a SSD via USB, but almost all of my other machines run off SD Cards without issue. Some off this exact same model SD card. 🤷🏻🤷🏻
@kieran977 11 ай бұрын
+1 for checking the SD card, or at least doing some diagnostics to check its read and write speed
@ollierinko9387 10 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally Could just be a case of a monday-model SD Card. But, the best option would still be to run an SSD over USB. Or better yet, swap to something like a Banana Pi and use an m.2 nvme drive.
@Soundwave857 7 ай бұрын
25:05 that Z homing is so smart omg
@youtubehandlesux 2 ай бұрын
Why pins + toothed idlers isn't standard for every printer ever still baffles me. Just upgraded my voron using them and the build process is much simpler than fiddling the screws.
@thebrain2302 Ай бұрын
Late to the party but klipper feeling slow on this machine might be due to a slow microSD card. I had that problem and once I got a fast microSD the Sandisk Ultra or something, the golden ones, it's as fast as it gets.
@hobbyistnotes 10 ай бұрын
Grate wiring, can't imagine how long it took to make it look so nice! I had similar CAN issues and just switching over canboot solved this problem instantly, also klipper build version have to be the same for both motherboard and toolhead boar, over all I agree that documentation for CAN could be better. For response time have you tried running UART instead on USB between RPI and BTT, I see you have screen connected via GPIO pins and per expirinace I know it might be occupying the UART pins but if not Id try that, if not you can also try different cable let say if you use USB2 try USB3 and opposite with correlated ports. Good luck with that build hope to see finished version of it as it's looks amazing.
@jadendeoliveira4032 7 ай бұрын
@MandicReally can you post the kipper config files?
@birdmananyweather1681 10 ай бұрын
Dude those corner brackets......i need those. Plz kind sir.
@jeffm2787 3 ай бұрын
The CAN bus is designed to be highly immune to interference. So the extra shielding is not all that needed. Certainly doesn't hurt. If anything it would help reduce EMI from the printer itself to the outside world.
@MandicReally 3 ай бұрын
CAN Bus is only as immune to interference as the quality of its cable, twist on the cable, and shielding it has. Nothing, to my knowledge, in the signal is particularly designed to handle noise. That's why cables like this exist. The one I used is specifically for moving components running CAN Bus communication. When I worked on cars the CAN harnesses were twisted & shield with grounding along their run. If anything they are MORE susceptible to EMI than any other signal wires on a 3D printer. In the design of CAN systems it is common to NOT run the Power Delivery along side the Signal Leads, as that is the most likely way EMI will be introduced. We cannot avoid that on 3D printers, so we have to mitigate how we can.
@jeffm2787 3 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally So they are not immune to common mode noise?
@benjaminshewan1613 11 ай бұрын
Excellent work! Cannot wait to see your follow-up video.
@npmrc 11 ай бұрын
I’m wandering how big is the penalty of keeping x motor on the gantry while upgrading everything else. I feel like difference would be not as big as people think.
@Idiot_Engineering 11 ай бұрын
To start with, that thing looks dope. But what's even left of that ender 5, extrusions and a bed mount? Second, are the slow commands only related to thing on the toolhead? Because if that is so, the toolhead can board might be bad, and not the main- or can adapter board. Also, ModBot already did a video on thermistor vs actual bed temps recently, but he focused on that there is a difference. Maybe you can look into methods to work around it?
@MidMadn 11 ай бұрын
I had the same problem and I wasn't even using CAN. I am now and the problem was there before and also after. Only thing that got rid of it was increasing the voltage from 5.0 volts to 5.6volts.
@Idiot_Engineering 11 ай бұрын
@@MidMadn Who's voltage? the Pi's? 'cause if so, damn, that's out of spec.
@zbigniewwielgus1249 7 ай бұрын
Response time - what is bandwidth? Also check USB cable -i have problem when using my ender 3 with klipper, very slow reaction -change bandwith and usb cable help
@MandicReally 7 ай бұрын
1,000,000 and same USB cable I order for a lot of my installs. Running the same one to a U2C on my 2.4. Gonna recompile and setup fresh soon. Then maybe switch to USB operation of the EBB36.
@gregjohle3257 10 ай бұрын
Check the baud rate between that toolboard and the can adapter.
@MandicReally 10 ай бұрын
Both are at 1,000,000. Doesn't mean there isn't a communication issue there for sure. I'm planning to switch away from the SD card on the Pi (SSD storage) & will likely reflash everything fresh when I do.
@divyajnana 4 ай бұрын
Pink and black, like it!
@Ben-qh1ku 11 ай бұрын
Hey Mandic you did a really nice build, I like a lot of the color you used, I build my with almost the same part the Revo Six, Orbiter V2.0, Manta M8P with CANBus and hydra the only think is I have to used the same heater bed due to Fabreeko don’t have that bed plate for months a been looking in the page and always said out of stock, your were lucky to get one. I like the combination you use for the Z Endstop and bed level with Knick’s. I like to see future video above the programming and the fine tune made on it. Great video keep post more about this build.
@mikestansbury2510 11 күн бұрын
the ender 5 plus was my second 3d printer. still learning, slowly. getting better with it, finally figured out how to level it perfectly, then all of a sudden i had problems with the upgraded extruder. under extrusion was a huge hill for me to climb and i finally figured out what was wrong with it. then after 2 weeks of perfect prints, it started under extruding again. fixed it, but now the bed won't hold the print down in one corner and it seems like under extrusion again. everything is new. gears, the pulley, upgraded out of the bed springs, and spent 15 hours trying to fix it yesterday. it's never taken that long for me to figure out the problem. totally stumped on this. i figure it's a good idea to get that micro swiss extruder so i ordered it. if this don't work, do you have any other ideas of what might be the cause? my bed is cleaned, but has some sticky residue from the wolfbite i used a while back, so it can't be that. it's really odd. any advice would be welcome.
@thatguyisjames 10 ай бұрын
If that screen is like the 7" Raspberry Pi touch screen. Inside your /boot/config.txt you need to set the rotation. The hang up is it is not "display_rotate=1", it will be "lcd_rotate=1" as it is coming out of the display flat ribbon and not the HDMI. Additionally for the 7" Raspberry Pi screen, you have to comment out the "dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d" section. Otherwise the touch screen does not work when rotated. Fingers crossed it's just a simple setting issue.
@TheDarkPreacher65 11 ай бұрын
The synthwave was a very nice touch, man.
@Dbigpinoy 11 ай бұрын
Cant wait for a Compair and contrast between this and Bambu Lab X1. Print quality and speed wise. I know this rig is best for large bed.
@bartacus3521 11 ай бұрын
Great job Alan, really like the build! One FYI, from a guy with a half-built Mercury 1.1: if you gut the Z-axis and get rid of that entire smooth-rod infrastructure, you can move the bed around in the frame, front-to-back, and get more build area. I replaced mine with a mish-mash of 3d-printed parts, and some modifications of other parts from the Voron world. I'm able to do 360*360 on the X/Y now. I'm still going to end with a dual-Z bed, but I personally don't think the Hydra, or any 3-point system, is worth the hassle, but that's just IMO.
@riktanius 10 ай бұрын
can you show what you have done? Do you have a build log somewhere? I am curious
@bartacus3521 10 ай бұрын
@@riktanius No sir I don't, it's gathering dust ATM. Got too busy with other stuff.
@geauxracerx 11 ай бұрын
The exact video my Ender 5 plus needed made. Bravo
@AndrewAHayes 3 ай бұрын
Is there an enclosure that is compatible with a Mercury 1.1 conversion?
@johnmarro5352 9 ай бұрын
I would love to see more on the Orbitor with the revo. I recently put a revo cr on my ender 3v2, and have been thinking about an orbitor extruder for it. honestly a video explaining how the canbus works and the works would be amazing! thank you!!
@MandicReally 9 ай бұрын
I run a Revo CR & Orbiter V1.5 on my original Ender 3. I showed it on my Revo CR review. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qruPaM2VzdvPdZc.htmlsi=iEpeMtj0ntf3Vi8N I doubt I’ll have a chance to do a canbus video. It’s a complicated topic to explain in a non-dry manner, and videos like that result in me becoming tech support for the entire audience. Which just doesn’t work out well. Sorry. Quite a few folks have covered it pretty well and companies are working to improve it all the time. Hopefully someone updates it soon to be easier and I can justify that.
@kevinseah1602 11 ай бұрын
Wow. Super nice and clean setup! Video came just in time! I am going to do the Mercury one.1 mod on my ender 5 plus as well! Inspired to do it!! Love your contents! Awesome job! 🎉
@asw27x 9 ай бұрын
anywhere to find the cable chain mount for the Z axis?
@eliblessed 8 ай бұрын
love the color choices! I actually made my Voron 2.4 (350mm) and MPCNC to be Hot pink. One of my favorite colors!
@curtisbarclay2292 6 ай бұрын
Man, that looks awesome👍👍. about 19:08 you talked about the wiring. Great wiring looms. So tell us, how many zip ties did you go through all because of that sneaky little wire you didn't see when you made the ties🤣🤣
@MandicReally 6 ай бұрын
100+ 🤣🤣🤣
@EsotericArctos 4 ай бұрын
I had the same issue with portrait orientation. There is a code you can add to the config.txt in the boot folder on the Raspberry Pi that sets up the touch screen orientation as touch matrix is completely separate to the screen orientation. I can't remember the code off the top of my head now, but it was somewhere on the Raspberry Pi official website.
@flaviomayorga7300 8 ай бұрын
For that slow response check your CAN Connection.
@_adamalfath 10 ай бұрын
I'm experiencing same klipperscreen rotation problem on Bullseye. Using old stable Buster image solved this for me.
@RBallarddesigns 10 ай бұрын
Great machine! It was nice to meet you at ERRF.
@naps1saps 10 ай бұрын
Isn't the delay the command buffer at the controller, not klipper? At least that's what I think the delay is between octoprint/serial and marlin. Designed my own corexy from scratch. Wish I would have bought a pre built but at least I can say I made my own 3d printer 😂. Not going to lie, I'm jealous 😅
@MandicReally 10 ай бұрын
Octoprint / Marlin works in an entirely different way than Klipper does. Klipper processes the G-Code on the Pi, so the parsing of commands is quicker. The MCU is just a pass through for I/O. So the commands are not processed by the controller but rather by the Pi. This SHOULD eliminate that bottleneck, but it could be an issue in some odd way all the same. I cannot eliminate that issue but it should not be an issue with Klipper.
@naps1saps 10 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally oh yeah I do remember that. I tried implementing klipper but wanted 2 instances for 2 printers and couldn't get it to work as docker instances with serial connections and gave up.
@rshotty9039 5 ай бұрын
I thought the idea behind the revo space was that every single tip/hotend was machined to perfect length across the board eliminating the need to re-Z after a swap
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
Not in my experinece. I've never measured but I've always found a very slight diffrence in Z-offset when changing Revo nozzles. Arguably how you handle and tighten the nozzles could impact the offset. Heck I've had a Revo nozzle loose by a few threads for an entire print before, ha.
@rshotty9039 5 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally well shit. thanks for that intel .. that changes a few things for me
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
@@rshotty9039 I love Revo and recommend the system, but I usually find without this feature I do have to babystep my first print after a nozzle swap then save that value. Not a big deal but is an additional step.
@rshotty9039 5 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally makes total sense, and honestly it's the right way to do it. working on my build now and was only going to do clicky but I like that z zero switch mod,.
@joeferris7689 9 ай бұрын
Any fix for the slow klipper instance? my ratrig is horible like that!
@SwoodWithArod 11 ай бұрын
Dude this thing is mega, nice job man! I really liked the color and that wiring job is on point!
@freeemailssuck6848 9 ай бұрын
I have a BTT Manta M5P & EBB36 using CAN on both the main board and the tool head with the built in CAN controller. It took me days to work it out and finally get it working. I went through so many sets of instructions from all over the web to get it working and can also say that BTT’s documentation is very poor in this regard.
@clutchboi4038 7 ай бұрын
Could be a power issue with the Pi making it slow. The BTT PI has direct 12-24 volt input and I just ran wires directly to rhe psu. Probably be using the BTT for printers here on out
@MandicReally 7 ай бұрын
Pi has a dedicated 50W power supply feeding only it. And if never trips any power errors as they usually do when under powered.
@Jackthesnak555 10 ай бұрын
That flow rate is wild
@tomansager1 5 ай бұрын
Can you supply a link to the custom raspberry pi/screen mount?
@JH-zo5gk 10 ай бұрын
The slow klipper response issue. Sounds like a code buffer maybe?
@SpaceGringos3D 11 ай бұрын
Rapid tap is liquid gold for tapping threads into extrusion. 👻❤
@brainiac9579 11 ай бұрын
Funny coincidence. I've been looking at doing this exact mod to my Ender 5 plus. Did you also "investigate" the Zero G Hydra 3 point conversion? I would really like your take on that too. Love the way you present your results and experience, by the way.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
I didn’t have any interest in the hydra at the onset as I intended to build a rear electronics enclosure. But after I switched away from that I’m quite tempted to do the Hydra. That said, I haven’t done anything with it and don’t have the parts to say anything about it.
@joseholguin436 11 ай бұрын
I converted mine to this one, and then decided to take it one step further and modded the kinematic bed from the rat rig, and the XY system and hotend form the vzbot AWD! It's a monster!
@jacobmurray3621 11 ай бұрын
@@joseholguin436do you have any of the mods for the rat rig uploaded? I was planning on doing something similar eventually wanna do a tool changer. They are working on attaching a VZbot Goliath Hotend to one as well.
@MidMadn 11 ай бұрын
I personally find the stock Creality 5+ Z system to be stable and consistent as long as you have separate drivers on the Z motors so you can take advantage of Z-Tilt. I have no desire for the Hydra mod. If it was a regular Ender 5 or 5 pro with the cantilever bed - I would be all over the Hydra. @@MandicReally
@TechieNI 6 ай бұрын
It really is a pitty these mods are not available. They look great.
@HReality 10 ай бұрын
I’m liking that display mount.. I’d like to drop it on my ratrig v-core! Klipper screen has documentation on rotation.
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
Those files you asked about are FINALLY on my Thangs page: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally
@christoskaragiannis7973 11 ай бұрын
Was looking forward to this!! Thank you!
@brendanm720 10 ай бұрын
I'm using the U2C and the EBB36 on my Voron Trident and I like the combination.
@wsseibert 10 ай бұрын
Machines looks great! Can't wait to see future videos on it!
@MapleLeafMakers 11 ай бұрын
Beautiful build!
@MatthewColeman 10 ай бұрын
worth a try: last time i had poor raspi performance ended up being a badly binned SD card. easy test if you have a spare floating around.
@radish6691 11 ай бұрын
Hey, I just saw you a few hours ago at ERRF! Didn’t get to chat with you, first time I walked by you were mobbed and the second time you were chowing down on a big bowl of noodles or something, definitely didn’t want to interrupt that 😁
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
Hope you had a good time at the show at least. Thanks for letting me chom a bit. 😂
@georgedunn7573 10 ай бұрын
Would love to see a video on the beds. I was looking at getting one for my E5+ but wasn't sure if it's worth the cost. A detailed video of the differences and benefits would be great for everyone.
@FireRescue_Guy 7 ай бұрын
Besides the frame braces, Eva, and the zero-g files, what are you willing to share? I have the 7” touchscreen that I’d love to modify your 5” mount and make it fit. I’m already running a modified stealthburner and a front mounted rail on the X gantry. I also re-did the skirt to house fans, if you’re interested.
@DanielSanPedro 10 ай бұрын
That is a beautiful build, sir. Excellent work!! I contemplated doing this with an Ender 5 Plus.. that I sold. Maybe another day.
@sircheeseburger123 10 ай бұрын
I’ve been waiting so long for this video!
@MandicReally 10 ай бұрын
Me too. 😅😅😅 Started this project wayyy too long ago.
@tacodorifto 10 ай бұрын
Great video. I was hoping you would show compiling thr firmware.
@MandicReally 10 ай бұрын
Klipper compiling is really straight forward, but tedious enough that it would big down any video it’s included in unfortunately.
@tacodorifto 10 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally i started reading more on the project and realized its clipper. Im good with everything else but firmware. Great video. Ive now watched a few. Ive learned a few things from you. Im rewiring a cr10max and i used silicone wires. So i guess im gonna have to redoit To ptfe.
@caedis_ 11 ай бұрын
Love that inverted electronics bay. Been wanting to do it on my Trident
@kaizoor 11 ай бұрын
For the rotation. Did you try to turn the whole os within the Pi with boot/config.txt?There you can use display_rotate= and use the numbers 0 to 3 for the 4 variants that a display could be turned
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
I did try that. That is how I got the picture of KlipperScreen to rotate how I want, however the touch inputs didn't rotate with it for some reason.
@kaizoor 11 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally aah now I see which direction the problem is going. The touchscreen uses a matrix which spits out points to the OS to tell where an input was. Libinput on the raspi has an option to transform the matrix according to the screen rotation. Normally you give this information in your xorg config. I would look up the config key: Option "TransformationMatrix" I hope this helps you find a solution
@Dalroth 11 ай бұрын
That sounds similar to an issue I ran into with my octoprint installation. Some weird incompatibility with the new version of raspberry pi os, the camera and the official 7 inch display that I didn't have with the exact same pieces of hardware 3ish years ago. Unfortunately I never found a working solution and converted the camera into a USB gadget with a spare pi zero instead.
@oOWaschBaerOo 11 ай бұрын
i posted how to rotate the touch input too, its in libinput-40.conf, you gotta put a rotation matrix in, i posted 3 variants in a comment here@@MandicReally
@captainmcadams 11 ай бұрын
I had a similar problem with the touchscreen on a non 3d printer related project where I spent literally hours messing with dtoverlay files and the config file for the touchscreen. Finally figured it in the end, rotated the screen and touchscreen to match, but it was a nightmare! I think it’s because different versions of PiOS also do it slightly differently and I had a non standard (budget) tft. Keep at it… the answer is out there!
@asw27x 11 ай бұрын
There is a din rail fan mount. It's for the octopus but works for anything. Also there is a mod by a discord member for a z end stop switch. I personally feel the hotend cooling fan is super over kill.
@TechieNI 11 ай бұрын
Are your designs available for download by any chance?
@logiclandco 11 ай бұрын
For linux there is xrandr command. Yes spells like this. It can set your display output the way you like. For gui use arandr package
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
I started down the xrandr path but then KlipperScreen entirely stopped launching so I got scared to continue.
@user-xd8jg2qg8s 5 ай бұрын
beautiful build!! Can you tell me the link of pink fillament polylite-ABS?
@Armor3dprinting 11 ай бұрын
Nice job! I just did this conversion myself, actually. You wouldn't by any chance be willing to share your corner braces would you? I would love to remove the front bar for the same reasons. Thanks in advance.
@MandicReally 11 ай бұрын
Yes, those are available on my thangs page: than.gs/m/22154 I’ve yet to test the effect of the removed bar. I have an add-on that puts a bar down lower and out of the way, I’ll test that Vs no bar for the next installation of this series.
@Armor3dprinting 11 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally youre awesome, thanks!
@nonchalanto 7 ай бұрын
You can avoid all the headaches with CAN and low latency by just running usb directly to the toolhead. USB cables these days are robust, interference-resistant, and they’re faster and lower latency. Klipper interfaces with usb mcu’s out of the box, and in the case of your U2C adapter, you’re running it through the usb interface first anyway. You can get cables from 3do that have 2 thicker gauge wires for power + 4 cables for usb and it’s still only using one cable like with a CAN setup. USB is just far superior than CAN
@coreypeacock9900 9 ай бұрын
Watching this back a month later and noticed that smexy looking revo nozzle holder. Is that your design or did you find it somewhere?
@MandicReally 9 ай бұрын
My design. It’s just rather specific to the use case so I wasn’t sure if anyone would want it. I should release it either way.
@coreypeacock9900 9 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally if you'd be open to it, it's a great design and I feel it would get a lot of attention.
@Sir-Hisham 11 ай бұрын
Hi there .. i want to buy a CoreXY 14” cube volume printer, modern speed no record breaking intended Im up in line for the Prusa XL (after 2 years) but apparently its not what people was expecting therefore I’m not going through with that .. what would u recommend ? Thanks
@Redandfurious 6 ай бұрын
ps. would u choose thise over a voron 2.4?
@Dalroth 11 ай бұрын
This was a great video! Inspires me to spend more time on my printer!
@oneandy2 3 ай бұрын
I'd love to do one of these but used ender 5s go for too much in my area. Is there an "official" BOM for the parts required in addition to the kit for those of us considering building this as a "scratch built" new printer? I'm not afraid of cutting, drilling, and tapping.
@digital0785 11 ай бұрын
for the orbiter v2 i believe there was 2 versions 1 for .35 amps 1 for .85 amps but i could be wrong. not that it cant be a bad motor but also could be that :)
@etx007blue2 7 ай бұрын
Hi Mandic, thank you for making this video. You inspired me to do this conversion as well on a used Ender 5 Plus I got for cheap. Would you be able to share the vector file of the electronics cover that you made? I'd like to make a cover as well to protect myself from the electronics, thank you so much !
@MandicReally 7 ай бұрын
The zero-g team has files for the electronics box panels. I just made ones with my own laser that I could only fit a certain size of material in. If you order from someone like sendcutsend, they won’t have that restriction and the Zero-G panels will do well.
@teemo_fpv 7 ай бұрын
really nice Video, gave me some ideas for my own Project ! Keep up the nice work :)
@_wambly 10 ай бұрын
Just got finished(well I wouldn't say finished but its printing) with my merc 1 build. I love what you have done with yours. I like your design for the z cable chain and wago mount. Are those available for download?
@Ricjamz 9 ай бұрын
Ditto
@iamiam6078 7 ай бұрын
Hi I hope I can help you I have been in the same boat with my btt tft v 24 I v tried to rotate in to portrait mode gave up like 5 times and than I found on a forum that to rotate it you have to recompile the firmware in portrait mode (there should be a repo for that on btt) and you have to put a text file on the sd card or whatever you try to flash the firmware with the title reset.txt this will hard reset the firmware so the touch screen should work, at least for me it did. Btw great work there it looks amazing 🤘
@-4rchibald 7 ай бұрын
I’m struggling to find a use for my ender 5 plus, was looking at dropping the $200 AUD on a silent board, then a bigtreetech board, then seeing the price seems wasteful so jumped back here and started adding everything up, I think the list of parts will end up being close to buying an X1C? At least it seems that way given all the USD conversions and shipping for myself. If this just a passion project that isn’t really justifiable to those that just want a good printer? Like spending 100k on modifying a 20k car, you love it so that’s money well spent in you book but I’m on the outside looking in wonder why you didn’t just buy a newer car? This is a genuine question as I’m honestly looking at either ordering a PEI sheet for the E5+ and potentially ordering a brand new printer that will get me the speed and quality OR spending brand new high end printer money to modify the E5+ I hope you read this and can help me out with this decision.
@bakedbeansgaming7568 5 ай бұрын
any chance to get the stl file for fish plate for the frame
@MandicReally 5 ай бұрын
I'm working on updating the files for release NOW. Hopefully I will have them up later today, or tomorrow.
@bakedbeansgaming7568 5 ай бұрын
@@MandicReally thanks a lot
@onepanther69 11 ай бұрын
The screen might be interfering with processing on the board, i had a pitft50 with 4g rpi4 and the wifi would not work with them bolted together, emi could be the problem