Yep. I don't trust using silicone between the CBU and tub flange. The flashing is a great idea that I have used. Also, placing the flashing on the floor near the tub.

This is nothing new. Old school carpenters use to use pc of metal flashing before peel n stick. Carpenters know 🤣

These days I actually prefer the Zip system stretchy tape because it conforms to almost any profile, but it's the same idea.

Yes, the real world is messy and full of surprises. I often say that remodeling is a series of compromises.

And a whole lot of cursing at times.

Amen brother!

Glad it was helpful!

I have a few videos on tiling shower walls and the process is identical. The only difference is that you need a method of transitioning at the edge. A bullnose edge tile is one option, using a marble top (in sections) is another. Either way I would recommend using the Schluter Kerdi membrane underneath to waterproof the surround.

Thank you!

I stopped installing shower doors several years ago because the quality had become so poor. From bad designs to manufacturing flaws, I was spending too much time trying to make bad products work. Now I have homeowners work with a local glass company for custom doors. The quality is better and any concerns about fit are gone.

doesnt the flashing around the base of the tub affect the flooring installation?

@sunny meadows You mean the flashing or plastic installed under the edge of the tub apron? No, that's very thin. The backerboard is installed over the flashing. Then the tile is adhered to the backerboard. The flashing is just there to prevent weeping moisture from rotting out the floor over time.

I have a whole playlist of 40 videos about bath remodeling! Probably something there to float your boat: kzfaq.info/sun/PLD4oAOZqK9mCjvmw_nUkZBrPPXf_20Lad

Do you mean where the spout is attached to the copper stub coming out of the wall? There are some styles which push on, much like a shark bite style coupling. Those have O-rings. The style I prefer requires a male threaded fitting to be soldered on to the pipe stub, then the spout is threaded onto the fitting using teflon tape. I will also seal the opening around the pipe with silicone before installing the spout.

@@enduringcharm 1 Moen tub spout and the other was a Delta. Both had the slip on spout with orings. No where for the water to go when the spout was in shower position so it seemed to shoot back thru the hole in the tile.

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of that style. I use a lot of Moen faucets, but the ones I use have the screw on style spout. Possibly the pipe was a little short on your installation and the O-ring couldn't seal? I don't know. Caulking where the pipe comes through the wall is good practice, though.

In recent years I've noticed that the instruction booklets are so generic as to be meaningless. In some cases they are actually wrong. There is no effort anymore to include expert advice or accurate information with products. You bought it, now you're on your own.

Lately I've been favoring Zip System Stretch Tape, which easily conforms to curves and sticks tenaciously.

You misunderstand the purpose of the flashing. It is there only as a measure of protection for the future in case something goes wrong, such as extreme seasonal framing movement, a homeowner who doesn't maintain the caulk or grout, etc. Under normal circumstances it shouldn't be needed.

I actually have a whole video on that subject: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r5mSo6herM69hYE.html

You're correct about much of this, and I don't disagree. I've taken apart 60-70 bathrooms in my career, and almost none of them had water damage in the main "field" of tile. And back in the day they just put up "green board" drywall. If there is damage, it is located where the tile meets the tub because the caulk was not maintained, or the edge of the tub on the floor where water seeped in over a period of years. The reason waterproofing is an obsession these days is due to marketing efforts by companies who sell waterproofing products. For my work, I concentrate on protecting the areas where I have seen damage over the years, which is the edge of the tub or pan on the floor and the area where the tile meets the tub or pan.

I have several other videos showing installation details you should check out as well. IN fact, one was just published an hour ago you may find helpful!

That stuff is awesome. It's sold as carpet and flooring protection, but I've used it as protection in bathrooms and kitchens. Some brands have a more aggressive adhesive than others, so always test before you lay it over something important.

My issue with lightweight backerboard is that the final installation sounds hollow. It doesn't bother some people, but I like to be able to knock on a wall and have it feel and sound solid.

I've recently been rabbiting the back of the hardiebacker to fit over the lip, set the circular saw to the right depth and then cut a few scoring lines up to 3/4 of an inch from the bottom and then remove with knife and Polish plane. I think I'll stick with that but add the flashing for extra precaution.

@lucas Listen, that's really not a good idea. The health consequences of making that kind of dust with a circular saw and hardibacker (or any cement board) is no joke. Even outdoors you are taking a risk. When I was younger I took all sorts of dumb risks with my health that I now regret. A shower tile job is not worth getting silicosis.

@@enduringcharm how do you cut your hardi then? no matter what when you are cutting hardi backer you are going to generate a good amount of dust.

They make shears to cut hardibacker which are essentially dust free. See these videos: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j75zqqin06m4fo0.html , kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLuIdbKj3M6cY30.html , kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grqkqs18ubW0ooU.html

I'm not certain I follow your question. So, if I'm using 1/4" backerboard (hardibacker is what I use and recommend) on the floor, the hardibacker gets screwed down to the plywood. Before I put the backerboard down, though, I've installed the tub or pan and I like to use some kind of protection at the edge of that tub or pan so that future moisture doesn't create rot. I think that's where your question arises? Now I fully realize that hardibacker is recommended to be installed with thinset over the plywood and then screws. However, I don't do it that way for a number of reasons. I skip the thinset and just use screws. In my experience this does allow for a slight decoupling effect, so that the wood underneath can expand and contract while the hardibacker is less affected. The screws will move with the wood but still allow the tile and backerboard to stay put. This is a very modest decoupling effect, but real. Skipping the thinset also avoids waviness or bubbling that can develop as you try to screw down the backerboard while also walking on it. And I do think about the next guy down the line trying to remove this stuff! I have installations two decades old done in this manner with no issues. Back to your question--if you choose to put down the backerboard with thinset you can go right over whatever you've put down at the edge of the tub and no harm is done. Screws will be the only real fastener in that area, though, since the thinset won't adhere to the plastic or flashing very well. Or, you can adopt my method.

enduringcharm Yes thank you! You answered my question perfectly, i was worried I didn’t ask it right. I was going to do traditional, subfloor-> thinset->backerboard->thinset/tile, but your method is very interesting and I may do that now. Thanks again so much, very helpful. 🤙🏽

Glad I could help!