It made me smile when you added “and gals” thank you! This is a great video. Just the info I’ve been looking for and I haven’t seen anyone do that with the Waterproofing membrane on the taped tub flange but I LOVE it I’m going to definitely do that. It makes sense it likes to stick better than thinset. Thank you!

This is an excellent video. Explained by someone who is actually doing the work, in simple terms, using products that are available to us mere mortals. Thanks for making this one.

Thank you so much for your videos. My husband and I were lost in the confusion of whether to install above or over the flange. Your video explained everything perfectly and we can proceed with installing our shower pan and cement board in confidence.

Very helpful!!! Thanks! Answered my questions perfectly (not the manufacturers laboratory or new construction “perfect world” explanations). Not an actor, just a real-world person offering practical recommendations for do it yourselfers and solutions for real world problems.

This was a great video. I learned volumes about finishing off the flange area and taping the seams properly. Another item which was covered, was the transition between cement board and gyproc for the wall area. So very helpful for us DIY squad. Thanks very much!

Hello Joe. Very good instructional. Spot on as the saying goes. I used Latacrete products exclusively since the late 70's. Setting every type of tile made on over every type of bedding board or mortar. Hydro-ban introduced a wide area of applications and problem solving waterproofing issues and we were very happy. My personal favorite products are 4237, 3701, and Hydro-ban. However, having used all of Latacretes products I recommend all of them.

Thanks! Yours is the 8th or 9thbl video I watched for this information, and it's the one with the best, clearest, and most sensible answers regarding combining all the materials at that tub edge, which is totally trashed after many years. In this case, they had the board just above the flange, but it was sitting on some type of narrow stick that is so rotted that it is unidentifiable. That stick rested on the edge of the cast tub, with the tile extended over board and stick, down to the metal, with the joint then caulked. Been here 18 years. It's never been great, but only recently disintegrated. I will use your method for the repair.

There is a lot of controversy about where to put the wallboard on the tub flange and the tile institute recommends placing the board over the flange and onto the rim of the tub but I have seen so many failures when this is done that I would have to disagree. This is a great video on giving yourself the best shot at not having a failure! Common sense and experience tells me that the silicone joint between the finished tile and the tub will not be properly maintained and will eventually fail causing water penetration behind the tile. This method will prevent the wallboard damage that I am continually repairing at the job site. Great job!

Awesome video man. First timer doing my own tile work in bathroom & this definitely helped a lot! Subscribed

Thanks for taking the time to explain this so well

I go an 1/8 of an inch above the highest part of the tub (called the lip)... this is because I've demoed a more than tub or two in my life (hundreds) and ALL boards including concrete fiber boards such as HardieBacker, or Redguard, or Kerdi Board, etc even with Aqua Defense and good caulking, still ALL boards put below the lip wick up moisture and begin to grow mold. I've seen it too many times to be convenienced otherwise. Always go at least on if not above the lip. You can fill the gap with mesh tape and thinset to support the bottom edge of the bottom tiles, then caulk it (after tiling).

Very helpful for this first time bathroom remodeler! Liked and subscribed. Thanks so much!

Nice video. I've been doing renovations for 20 years and do all my own tiling. In my opinion compared to other products Laticrete products are awesome. I use Hydroban liquid all the time and it always requires two coats. Using Hydroban Board along with Latasil caulking. I've used Laticrete, Schulter, Wedi, cement board, denshield, etc.... And saying that my go to solution is Denshield with Hydroban Liquid with taped corners. Latasil for the caulking. I like the fact you mentioned raised corners with the Schulter product (pain in the ass). There are pros and cons to using these different substrates as they relate to flexibility and ease of carrying into the job site. The choice of products can also speed up your work as well. (i.e. board and start to tile the same day).

Great advice from a master. Always enjoy your content ,looking forward to more. Tks

Needed this video for a DIY shower with tub I’m working on. Thanks!

This was extremely informative. And I saw a whole shower install series you did a year ago. Keep going!! You have great content. This channel will blow up soon!!

This is exactly the advice I was needing. Great video

Love your explanations and your videos, Joe!

Good discussion of cement board, and sealant options.

Great Video - Extremely Helpful - Thank you!

Hey Joe, Great Content. Nicely done. One pro to another.🙏✌

I did mine exactly the same way but used red guard and the fiberglass mesh tape. It was many years ago and looking back I think it was the way to go.

Great video!

Thank you thank you thank you. Been in the trades for a long time, but never messed with tile that much till now. I know floating the entire wall solves a lot of issues, but sometimes it’s not in the cards. Just installed the densshield on my first solo bathroom remodel and I freaked when I saw two corner areas where the lip protrudes past the densshield by just a tiny bit. But also that it’s 12x4 subway tile I was worrying about only adhering some of the tile to the wall on the first layer. Yea another layer of 1/4” cement board would help. But I rather float the wall than do that. I watched your other video on filling imperfections for plumb and while hesitation strikes on doing that. I see how it could work. I tried straightening studs, but on the wall with a custom niche that goes almost corner to corner I had issues. Planned the studs, then framed the niche. That wall backs against another wall so planning was the thing to do, or fur it out. I’m not good with the internet but I think I subscribed. I really like your videos. Many thanks!!!

Thanks man this is a Great video 💯 saved me a whole bunch of trouble

Thanks were getting ready to do my sons bathroom remodel so this was timely and needed info. New subscriber here!!

I've seen other videos where they put on waterproofing after the thinset. I also saw one guy who put on flashing on the flange going up the wall studs about 6 inches or so behind the cement board.

I ha e learned so many great things from you tyvm and God bless.

Always great content. 👌

Thank you!

Fantastic Video!!!! How do I transition from 1/2" backerboard (cut to be above tub flange) and the top of the tub. The porcelain tub has the plumbing in and can't be moved. Can I put a piece of Kerdi board in the gap, then tape and Red Guard to moisture seal it? Thank you so much for your videos and the way you help the most armatures of armatures get through a project!

Brother I just put in a shower unit yesterday and I tried to explain to my boss that running it over the flange was wrong because it was bending the bottom of the Hardie board. He argued with me and told me that I was wrong even after I did all the research. I only needed common sense to tell me it was wrong. But he's just too bullheaded and I don't think I'm going to be working for him 4 long.

I installed a tile flange 4 inches high called flangeband. Seems to be a lot of different tile flange kits out there. I saw one called kerdi-ts too

I literally just used all of this stuff on a shower. Are used Schlueter brand, but the exact same principle. It is far as the flange or the lip on the tub. I actually trench the bottom back side of what you’re calling the Curti board and run it over the lip. It does become very thin and somewhat flimsy, but so is tape.

Thanks very informative

Great video. I have a jetted tub I would like to install in an alcove situation with a shower. The tub does not have a flange, What would you suggest to use as a flange or some kind of waterproofing between the tub and tileboard?

What I don’t get is if any water gets through the tile it will run down the waterproofed backer board to the tub flange, but then it’s stuck as there is nowhere for it to go. The gap between the tub and the tile is siliconed which effectively blocks it.

Good job

I've also seen it suggested to shim out the backer board by a few millimeters so that it sits in front of the tub rim. To do so, my idea was to use some very thin plywood as furring strips on the studs. Note that 1/2" nominal thickness Hardie Backer is actually 0.42 inches thick, so some minor furring will help it stay in the same plane as the 0.50" thick drywall that is typically butted up against it. To shim or to not to shim?? I'd appreciate any comments.

Great help video! Thank you! I see you ran your backer board to the floor in front of the tub. I'm butting up against wood lath and plaster. My 1/2" backer board will flush out with the plaster as I'm leaving the lath above the tub. Would I do the same you did here?? Do I tape and finish the joint between the old plaster and the new backerboard? Thank you for any help! Jeff

You are awesome!!

Joe I’m doing my tub area over I have installed amercast tub I left hardie backer up from tub lip . What can I put into the 3/4 in space from the bottom of hardie backer to fill in the gap , under the hardie backer is 1/2” water proof Sheetrock Can I put in mortar than put fiber glass tape on the gap . Thank you Your videos are very good

Hello, I have a situation with an older house and I intend on redoing the tub surround. I have all the old tile down and intend on using Hardie Board as a backer. THe problem I have ran into is parts of the tub edge is so far from the stud, that the Hardie Board does not sit on it, and would actually slip behind it by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. This would be the back wall. Then on the wet wall, the studs are actually against the tub edge, and when you put the Hardie board on it, it sits out proud the thickness of the Hardie Board. I know this can't be rare, but how do you handle this. Thanks and thanks for the video. I found it very instructive.

An answer I haven't found anywhere so maybe you have some insight: if one were to have a 6" band of butyl window flashing (tape) adhered to the top of the flange (coming from beind the cement board), is the hydroban/hydrobarrier and/or thinset able to adhere to that bit of flashing?!

is there any concern with the tub flexing and causing the thinset to break loose from the tub then cause squeaking as it flexes? I have an old steel tub for this one I'm working on so I suspect there is less chance for flex than with fiberglass tub. I see some guys recommend filling tub 1/2 or more with water to weigh it down first? I will follow your idea using the redgard I already have saved up for the shower job. The shower tiles came off the drywall after 30+ years and the drywall didn't show any moisture damage. With all the waterproofing that is recommend or required it seems like a bit of overkill in some cases. I did a shower a few months ago with Kerdi and that was a lot of work but it was a mud shower pan and my first shower. Now with these two I'm doing with tubs installed I'm tempted not to coat the whole cement board walls with redgard but I have it, so i will do it anyway. I am using glazed ceramic tiles. They are my own showers/tubs but if I were doing it for someone else I would make certain to follow 100% the right methods. I still plan to waterproof it fully but I'm convincing myself its overkill.

Can you do a whole bathroom work please. Thank you. Your videos are helpful to us

Hi Joe, Great Video as always and Love your channel! I have a question about what material to use on these ceiling of these Bath Shower combos. I have a shower tub combo in my home and I want to do a smooth level 5 type surface finish on the ceiling above instead of tiling it. I don't particularly care for tile on the bath ceiling so what should I use for the ceiling material whether it would be green board type drywall or something like GoBoard which is readily available to me locally and is more affordable than Kerdi - which is great but not readily available to me. I have never tired to do a plaster or skim coat type finish on anything like GoBoard, Kerdi, or even Hardiebacker which is what I am using for the tub shower surround. Thanks for any suggestions and reccos and keep up the great work. I am here almost daily anymore!

I had a plumbing emergency they ended up being a leaky cold water valve that was seeping through my ceiling from the upstairs bathtub.The plumber had to bust out tiles and left it that way but anyways when we cut out more tile so we could see the studs so we couldn put new backer board up we noticed that the last three inches of the horizontal tub lip that's closest to wall was missing. How do I go about putting the backer board up is there anything I can use to reinforce the area that the lip is missing?

Hey joe, can you tape and fill like you did here with an acrylic tub? I have to do the same process but I’m worried about deflection and squeaks

What should you do in regards to joint tape or cement board fiber tape at the ceiling where the cement board meets the ceiling drywall in a shower. Plus i plan to red guard the walls. My question is i just thinset the cement board side and drywall compound the ceiling side so it can be painted correct

Hey Joe, in the intro, you mentioned that the tub flange is a pain because it either sticks out too far or it's in way too deep. You never got around talking about the latter, when it's in way too deep, which is my situation. The ½ inch cement board is much thicker than the very thin flange. Do I tape over that and just pack in a lot of thin-set? Thanks for the video!

The tape that overlapped the lip of the tub, what did you do with that? Did you cut that off with a knife, or did you just make it overlap less than the tile width?

How about running the cement board completely behind the tub , I’m prepping the bathroom now waiting for my new tub to be delivered

Do you have finished photos of this tub and surround?

OK I see your running your Durarock past the tub, but that would be 21" or so not 30". The durarock is 30" wide. How did you get that to extend past, or did you cut 32" off the 60" length and waste the off cut? Im confused I guess by the direction of the writing on the board> Thx for any help

Do you have a video where you used the kerdi band on a tub like this (flange is under cement board & cement board sticks out over it)? I know you explained the theory around 6mins but if I could see it that would be great

Good tip on the tub flange. You can also put a think bead of silicone and press it in with a putty knife. Silicone works great for sealing and waterproofing areas like that. And I really like the way you finish the wall were the cement board meets the drywall. Good info.

thanks for the video! Have you used GoBoard? I wondered if it would be a good product to use by a DIYer as a backer for tiling around a tub?

Are the box store products like Aqua Defense and Red guard essentially the same thing as hydro ban? Or is it worth the extra money to buy it? Like your videos, Thanks.

Would you recommend kerdi board for someone’s first tile job? I have heard it might flex and make it more difficult to tile or some issues with tiles sticking. Any thoughts?

Please do part 2 where you start the first row of tile. Do you put the first row of tile right on the tub's edge or do you put a small gap for caulk?

Do you put concrete mix under your tub when you are setting it on the floor?

Will Redguard adhere to the joint compound on the bottom corner?

Hey man, going to do my shower soon. What compound did you use to transition the cement board to the Sheetrock? I’ve seen ppl do it different ways and also read that you need to use the 90, 45 or 20 compounds when on the cement board. Is this better than an all purpose? Thanks for the video.

Hi Joe, so to be sure is it okay if I put on RedGard on the tub flange instead of hydroban? Thank you for your insight and expertise, your videos are great. ✝️

Thank you. I’m re-doing my bathroom now and I thought I fucked uppppp by not installing the cement board over the lip of the tub

Do u recommend do the same thing to a shower pan

You can always “wet” shim the wet wall.

I tried this. My tape wouldn't stick to the porcelain. I almost had a nervous breakdown because it was the last straw on the camels back.

Says "if you live in the cold you should at least use Kerdi on the exterior wall" proceeds to show cement board and snow outside the window.

" the thin set will stick to the hydro ban" well.....

Here is how you do it my friend, Put the tub in place, scribe a line on the studs around the tub. then notch out one quarter inch on every stud. then screw the tub in place, then set your backer board over the lip of the tub, will take you ten minutes and wala you are done. Not real complicated.

First

It would help if you didn’t say joint so much in this video

Love the advice but are you being paid to use these products

Thank you!