Thanks Zak. Excellent video. Very helpful and easy to follow.

The Right Way to Do It! At last someone that understands how and why to set the caps and how to properly torque the bolts. Good video!!!!!!!

Good job I hope my inline chevy 6cyl turns out like yours GREAT VIDEO Thanks William Orange county, ca.

Amazing video made by an amazing man

Keep up the good work sir

Brother I could watch u build a sbc over and over. Just something about how u speak and teach it's not boring even though I've done this myself half a dz times and watched this video that many it's still interesting and keeps me asking for the next part or video! Keep it up bro

on the rear main seal,the seal says flywheel side thought i would point that out, just installed my crank last night nice video

Thank you

What’s up Zak! It’s Zack with Skratz!!

What did you use to clean the journals bearings and cylinder walls?

If I heard you correctly you said you put the plastigage on the bearings in the block? Thats not correct,when you put the crank in it'll flatten the plastigage giving a false reading. The crank needs to be laying in the block and the plastigage placed on top of the journal,then the cap installed and torqued. this gives you the actual clearance. Same with the rods,they need to be up tight to the journal and the cap torqued down to get the actual clearance.

Did u set the thrust bearing? i didnt see that.

Do I have to use my stock windage tray or can I eliminate it and replace the longer bolts for it with bolts like the others so they are like this 1

Hey man im 17 rebuilding my first d15b6 honda engine and im using a really shitty torque wrench that doesnt click its like a needle and I dont feel its accurate. When I do my second pass of 40lbs my crank locks up. I loosened it up and tried again and it didnt lock up but it wasnt as smooth as my 20lb pass. Should I get a new torque wrench or is there something wrong with my crank?

Sweeeet😎

Is the tourqe specs same on four bolt main.. or is inner and outer bolts different

Can you check end float without gauge cheers

Should have shown in great detail with close up's of how to get real main seal on rear cap to line up with lower half in block and where ( are not ) to put RTV around rear main cap as seal or block register to get solid sealing. This question is what I was looking to find out if I clock the rear seal .

Mine spins freely by hand but doesn't spin like yours in the end, should it spin like that? My clearances were between .0015-.002-Mines a 95 1pc seal if that makes a difference

I have a question maybe you can help me my crankshaft is installed in my small-block 283 it's spins but not freely what could be the problem

Seems like end play should have been done before final torque

I just put my 283 crank in but it doesnt turn that easy .....all the bearings had proper clearance but the lucas product i used might be a bit sticky . But it really turns smooth but not that loose

So you don't have to set the thrust bearing?

What bolt size did you use

I thought you were supposed to tighten those down in a pattern

Geat video i liked and subbed i would like to follow u on facebook whats the name of your group or page

Why can’t you touch the surface of the bearings with your bare hand? I’m a car noob and I’m barely learning.

8:20 ..... he didnt have the other half of the rear main crank seal inserted in the thrust bearing cap. o_0

Lost my interest the second he said “plasti-gauge”.