Glad this helped you. All the best.

Thank you! I am glad it worked for you.

Glad it worked! Happy driving. That is a nice car.

Nice job. In a few weeks there will be a video featuring how to use a fuel pressure gauge kit. Congratulations.

Glad it helped you!

Great job! All the best to you

@@straybenzes Thanks! I will be watching your videos if there is something I need to know about my 190E. all the best to you

@@frederikhberg1308 Thanks, same to you!

Nice work! Glad it helped.

Oh wow. Glad to hear that this will be useful.

That can happen really easy. It is best to invest in a pressure test kit so you can adjust it properly. It makes a huge difference performance and fuel consumption wise.

Wow! Great save. Unfortunately, even most dealerships no longer have the technicians or tools for 30 year old cars. Sadly even the new distributor assembly would have had to be adjusted in the same fashion you just did it yourself. All the best.

Mann that happened to me for that simple problem had to cough up R11k (ZAR)

@@abdulwaaghiedadams6205 Wow. that is almost 700USD and therefore pretty expensive. All the best!

A Hello back to you!

Merci beaucoup ! Je suis heureux que cela vous ait été utile. Bonne chance à vous et gardez votre Benz classique sur la route.

Glad it helped. Thx.

Thank you and all the best to you and your car.

It looks like we share the same experience and sentiment. All the best!

Hear hear i second that

Glad it worked! Thx

Thanks again!

The 380 has a K Jet not KE Jet. Here is a video of fellow MBCA club member Pierre Hedari. This may help sort out some of your injection challenges. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/la1lpK98mtfQiJc.html

Good luck!

Having a issue with the vacuum valve the green and black one under the intake case I replaced my eha it was leaking really bad but noticed my vacuum valve was broke maybe doing the work but having a issue finding one cross reference numbers gave me one that’s to sisal to fit the fitings

@@Devan_Bolin Looks like you got it sorted out. All the best!

Glad you liked it. Good luck.

The best of luck to you!

Hi Andrei; You actually have a Generation 1 W126 and those had the K Jetronic (the one in the video is a Gen 2 with the KE Jetronic). I believe yours does not have an EHA. Here is a video of my MBCA club member colleague Pierre Hedary:kzfaq.info/get/bejne/la1lpK98mtfQiJc.html The knocking noise should be investigated urgently. Changing oil to a 10W30 may bring some temporary relief if it is a hydraulic lifter issue. Good luck.

@@straybenzes ...you are right, I was looking for it and couldn't find it lol, so not sure why she's sluggish

@@andreimtriscas6626 Best practice is to work back from fuel tank to injectors and go through one system to the next. Same goes for ignition and exhaust. If it idles and runs ok but just does not develop power it can sometimes also be a plugged catalytic converter (if yours has one). That would be a rare one, but the point is to look at all the systems.

@@straybenzes...sounds good, I bought as a project and rescue it from sitting and rust away so it's going to be one step at a time lol

@@andreimtriscas6626 Remember: there is not a more expensive Benz, than a cheap one....

You're welcome 😊

All the best

Thank you! Glad you like them.

Thanks. Here is the video link for doing this using a pressure tester. Good luck. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ra2Afqx_y9vDeKc.html

Makes sense.

Good luck!

@@straybenzes You know there's something funny going on with this ".4 bar" difference and a single valve gauge set. I THINK? That those numbers are for isolated ports which you can't do with a single valve. I could not make it work right because with the valve open you're not getting true reading of either of the ports but a MIX, no? I finally just switched my gauge fittings around and actually isolated each port and it was a snap and OMG is it ever running nicely now, whole new car.

@@RastusMcbride No, that is indeed the "official" procedure. If you got this to work with two separate gauges the more power to you. Glad it worked!

@@straybenzes One gauge just flipped it around (a few times) so the valve could isolate each port. Still not sure about the conditions for setting... the factory manual has you disconnect the O2 sensor, disconnecting the eha does the same thing yes? So hot, with eha dc'd and .4 bars then... is that right? Sorry so nitpicky just want to make sure it's right this time ;)

@@RastusMcbride That is correct - better right that doing it over and over again :)

It is the same for the two fuel pump system.

Make sure that your idle mix is adjusted to highest RPM. Invest in a KE Jetronic fuel pressure gauge kit. This will help make sure that you can measure the main fuel supply pressure and the differential pressure. If you are even slightly off with the differential pressure you will encounter lack of power or actually choking issues. Good luck!

1/4 turn cw. This is one way to do this, but not the best way. I would invest in a fuel differential pressure gauge set and measure the main fuel pressure and the differential pressure. That way you prevent throwing money at solutions that usually throw more unknown variables into the mix.

Yes, that can and will happen.

Assuming your ignition components, fuel supply and return line are fine, and there is sufficient fuel pressure then I would say that you need to check the high/low fuel pressure of the EHA. There is an upcoming video about how to do this in July.

Thx. All the best!

Most likely the EHA needs to be rebuilt or replaced. You are connected to the correct test ports, right?

Hmm. I would start with making sure that you have the correct fuel delivery and differential pressure. Also, make sure that your idle mixture is set to max idle RPM. Black smoke is usually too much fuel. Assuming that fuel delivery pressure and idle mix are ok, I would focus on the fuel distributor and the air mass flow flap mechanism. Hoping this may help you a little.

@@straybenzes can you point me to a video of yours or another resources that covers the theory of operation of the fuel system? [I have new pumps]

@@williamschuh7947 The best source that I have found so far is the old factory WIS service information. I would Google that to find a cost effective source. Sadly Benz folded their free look up of that info on StarTech completely. Only other option would be to let a KE Jetronic mech like Pierre Hedary take a look at it.

Oh my, there are a lot of issues here. I think you need to tackle one symptom at a time. The fuel pressure needs to be corrected. That is usually due to failing pump(s) and / or fuel filter or fuel pre-filter. Sounds like you have enough fuel going to the engine though. Can you confirm that you have a spark while cranking the engine?

@@straybenzes Thanks for your reply. Yes I do have sparks. I believe because I was cranking so hard or because I drove the car at a high RPM on the freeway but when it is idling it shut off itself until after fee day I did a cold start but it never came on or started. Was cracking but wont start.

@@kehindeoye569 IDi d you do the fuel pump / fuel flow test on the fuel distributor?

@@straybenzes Yes I did all f that.

¡Muy bien!

Oh yes. A new part will typically be adjusted such that the engine will at least start, but expect having to do some adjusting. Good luck!

Assuming that you have connected the delta P gauge correctly you should have a high of 6.4Bar and the low pressure at 6Bar. Looks like you need to adjust the EHA properly. Here is a video how to do that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ra2Afqx_y9vDeKc.html Good luck!

After 1992 the M119 engine featured a new Bosch fuel injection system and the KE Jetronic was no longer used. So far the good news. The not so good news on the W124 of the early 1990s is that the wiring harness is infamous for causing all sorts of shorts, intermittent contacts, etc. So here I would first take a look at all the wiring contacts on the fuel injection system and check the wires for continuity as well as contact corrosion. Sorry for not being of too much help with this particular fault.

Hi @mikeymancebo7783, I’m just wondering if you were able to solve the problem on your 400E? I have the same problem also on a 400E, looking for a solution. Thanks in advance.

What color smoke comes out of the exhaust when that happens?

750 at idle and 650 in gear. The vacuum needle should be all the way to the left in either case. This could be due to a vacuum leak. Either do a smoke test or a small gas fuel source to seek out if and where the leak may be.

@@straybenzes thanks

@@gs98999 😀

Remote diagnosis of such a potentially complex root cause analysis is always difficult. If the spark plugs carry a lot of carbon deposits this may be due to leaking valve guide seals. Have these been replaced yet? I am not so sure what you mean by " waste of fuel".

Just about anything is possible. Is any of it easy? Jury is out on that. It really is what you make it. If you do choose to do this, then invest your time in research and planning. Personally, I would go with a later model car rather than implanting a modern engine into these old cars. Totally up to you. Good luck!

Yes, it is possible. A few w124 had as well a v8 500 engine. Thus, no problem.

Bitte

Once you clean the area with contact cleaner you should see right away where it is leaking from once you start the engine.

Was the engine at operating temperature? Is this phenomenon worse when the engine is cold? It does sound like that the EHA differential pressure adjustment could be the problem. This assumes that the idle mix is adjusted correctly, fuel supply pressure is correct, the fuel filter (primary and secondary) are in good working order, and that you do not have vacuum leaks.

@@straybenzes Thank you Sir, Fuel pumps ,fuel filter, accumulator and fuel pressure regulator are new, and yes I feel it most in the morning, and forgot to mention that it does not like to start from the first time and when it starts engine shakes for 2-3 seconds.

No O2 sensor? Hmm. This could still be related to the throttle potentiometer on the side of the fuel distributor. The EHA works strictly on fuel differential pressure.

Cheers I think I may have identified the problem. The resistance values on the potentiometer are completely wrong. Fingers crossed 🤞

Do you think the Potentiometer may be the issue? kzfaq.infoPGvShvGQ_ec?feature=share Thank you in advance

@@brianalcock it can definitely be an issue. Good luck!

@@brianalcock Good luck!

If that is your root cause issue it could be the fix it needs. Good luck! I would try to do this using the gauge method though.

@@straybenzes I don't have the gauge but I was going to turn it in (clockwise) 1/4 turn like he said. I've tried everything else. New fuel pump and filters, cleaned out fuel tank and lines, new fuel pressure regulator. My 190e only has 33,000 origional miles and I don't want to give up on it.

@@Nelsonvisions Oh, do not give up on it. This may do the trick, but it would be better knowing what the fuel pressures are. That low mileage may be part of the problem. Not driving them a lot is typically not got for them. Once you have got it going again I would start driving it more regularly. Good luck.

It is nowhere close to the seats. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the plastic footrest under the carpet mat on the passenger side and you will see it to your left in the footwell area. Just unplug and push the rubber grommet through.

If you take it easy in overadjusting it should still start no matter what. Make no more than 1/4 turn at a time.

Yeah, the clock stopping after setting it is unfortunately a frequent issue. If after the third attempt of resetting the clock to the correct time it still does not keep working I would try pushing the clock turn knob in, set the clock, and then let the knob snap back in place rather than a slow release. Sometimes the adjustment gears stay engaged and the clock drive is not meant to move that stuff along and thus the clock stops. Good luck.

@@straybenzes thank you for the reply and help, I will try this.

@@teammagnaparte1112 Good luck

It is a distinct possibility that that is the problem. It could however be something simple as a restriction in full fuel flow, e.g. from restricted main or pre filter.

Hmm. That is highly unlikely. Usually, if it the EHA fuel pressure issue then the car stalls when cold and then runs better when hot. Here my hunch is checking your ignition coils cable connections for corrosion and dirt. Also, check the crankshaft position sensor for dirt etc. Good luck.

Much appreciated, thx for getting back!

@@d.draper5822 You bet

@@d.draper5822 You are welcome!

Did you fix this issue, I have an identical symptom

Idle goes up by how much?

That is the leading cause for that symptom. Make sure that your idle mixture is adjusted properly, you have no vac leaks, and that your fuel delivery system is clean and has the correct supply pressure.

Right or aka clockwise

That totally depends on the preceding root cause failure analysis. The EHA components can be the root cause of the lack of power and stalling. But inexperienced owners or car mechanics can also miss other issues and try to correct that by adjusting the screw. Then that would be the wrong thing to do.

I am sorry, but that model has a different fuel injection system that I am not very familiar with.

@@straybenzes Thank you

😀@@SuperStrle

If it is an engine with the KE Jetronic then I would say it can be the idle mix being off. Could be the a vac leak too though. Then again it could be anything from the main fuel pressure being off to a plugged up sintered filter element in the fuel distributor. When did this problem start? Or better, how did it start?

The K Jet does not have the EHA. This is most likely a problem related to the airflow mass plate adjustment needing to be corrected. An aquaintence of mine, Pierre Hedari made a video about this and around minute 16.47 he covers that part. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/la1lpK98mtfQiJc.html

Well, so you have to deal with the additional variables of the previous owner potentially having made things worse by "fixing" stuff? That is sometimes worse than working on an unmolested basket case of a car...

@@straybenzes is there any kind of break in period when that type of work is done? Because next thing to start with would be, at least from what I’ve read, to redo an oil change and put thicker oil for the lifters, grounding some purple wire, and maybe cleaning the fuel lines

@@plissken94th57 Top end work typically does not need a break-in time. Bottom end work including cylinder honing would be a slightly different story. "Thicker" oil is a bit subjective as the oil blends available today have quite a different heat vs viscosity curve compared to 30 years ago. If I am not mistaken your engine would be best run with a 10W-30 or 10W-40. I prefer the former but take a look at your O+M. If it is the lifters then there is a good chance for the noise not to go away. Does it get better as the engine warms up? Some will do that. As for the engine stall, I would measure and review things like main fuel pressure, EHA differential pressure, and definitely the idle mixture. Just throwing new stuff at the engine is rarely the "easy" fix we are all hoping for. I would also recommend taking a compression reading. That will give you a good indication about how much they milled off the head and also if there is good compression (if there isn't then that can diminish power and cause a stall). Sorry for the long reply.

If the engines responses better when at operating temp then it is most likely your fuel system. I would recommend troubleshooting the fuel system from tank to injector one item at a time, rather than throwing money at the problem and then adding a few new variables (just because it is "new" does not mean you will have no issues).

@@straybenzes thanks I'll keep you updated on how it goes I also bought some new fuel injectors since mine are old and never been changed

@@oldschool3143 The best of luck!

Oof. That is a nasty problem. Use a power probe and see if you can find any broken wires starting with the power supply from the battery.

@@straybenzes many thanks I will try that

@@younuskhan1752 Good luck!

What a cool history your car has. What you are describing sounds like a faulty fuel pump relay to me. They are very hard to find in new old stock, but sometimes you can "revive" it by just resoldering the soldered points on the board. It is scary when you all of a sudden lose all power and all you can do is to safely coast to the side of the road. The best of luck to you! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r6mbdM2gx8q-noU.htmlsi=VnAPHLLTpiBMYJpG

I could, but the idle mix adjustment could also be a problem. First I would make sure that you have correct main fuel pressure. Then I would check that you have fuel flowing through your new distributor. You would have to jumper the fuel pump relay to make the pumps run continuously and then crack open one or all fuel injection ports to see that you have fuel flowing.

​​@@straybenzes so here's the thing. I replaced all my fuel injectors with brand new ones because mine were old, and I bought a new fuel distributor but I used my old eha that was on my old distributor. After that it wasn't starting right till I messed with the pressure plate and now it starts with my rpm on the 5? I believe? I'm not sure if that's the right rpm on it or not but when I tried running my car it still had acceleration hesitation and I noticed that my fuel pump was leaking. If I change my fuel pump and it still has the hesitation what do you think the problem would be?????

@@oldschool3143 There is a lot going on here. I typically only change one variable at a time. Out of the things you did the one with the most significant change is changing out the distributor. Doing so requires for you to adjust the idle mix. That is the 3mm allen screw (there is another video on this channel about that). You need to adjust that screw to obtain the highest idle that you can. Next is the fuel pump situation and the EHA situation. Leaks need fixing and you still need to confirm that you have the correct fuel pressure at the distributor. That goes hand in hand with checking the pressure differential achieved by the EHA (another video on the channel). Your current idle is too low. Good luck.

That depends on too many variables. This method only works with an engine that is running well otherwise. The only good way to adjust the EHA is to use a fuel pressure gauge as explained in another video of mine on this channel.

Wow. You should be very busy with that. Good luck!

It can happen and that is totally depending on the condition of the part and the car in general.

@@straybenzes they are all soaked in petrol , it depends a lot of the quality of the fuel , that s what i have noticed in time. Cheers

@@Gioagla Yeah, the new fuels are pretty rough on any fuel system. Thanks!

Good luck to you!

It would need to leak pretty badly, but the valve could still need adjusting. KE Jetronics are simple in principle, but it requires that all its components and systems are working quite perfectly. Did anyone mess with the CO adjustment (the little Allen head screw that adjusts the air mass flow sensor flap gap)? Most folks make the mistake thinking that this is an idle control screw - it is not. Your symptom could also be the start up valve and start up fuel injection valve not working properly. Hoping this will help a little. Good luck!

It is really leaky, from all the holes is coming fuel, i turned a little bit on the Mixture Screw but with duty cycle Meter just to See if engine works Properly, i turned the screw back to 43% -49%. The car runs perfectly when warmes up. I stop the engine, i smoke a cigaret, i Start the engine and He needs 2 to 3 starts and then He runs. When the car is not touched for about 12 hours, He needs 5 to 8 starts and then the rpm goes slowly up and then He runs again perfectly. If the car is not used longer the worse is the cold Start. I checked All Filters, all pumps, all valves, everything is working Properly. I bought a new EHA but it comes in 2 weeks. So it might Be the EHA, its leaking so bad that im losing Pressure on the System?

@@MrTaipeh1 If it leaks that bad then you will need to fix that and then you need a pressure gauge set up to set the correct pressure differential on it (as shown in another video). The idle mixture should be set to max rpm at idle whatever that is (high idle condition is an issue caused by other conditions). What is the fuel system pressure? Make sure to measure this also - the fuel filter / pumps need to work properly in order for the car to start correctly.

@@MrTaipeh1 I would be curious to see what the fuel pressure is with a cold engine. That should provide an important clue.

I wait first for the new EHA. It should come this week. I try today again and after 20 seconds of trying he starts. I pushed the gas Pedal a little bit and had something like backfire. Only once and he Was shaking and the rpm was Falling. Then the second Start without any problems. Its only when the engine is really cold. I hope its the eha. Meine leaks so bad that i can stell fuel inside the car.

Yes, the large size black plastic piece. There is usually only one sensor. Good luck.

That sounds like it is not getting enough fuel. Pierre Hedari made a great video going over the K Jetronic fuel system and shows how to adjust it: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D_G5qLK5qlXc&ved=2ahUKEwip1cOwqIOHAxXMj4kEHWOsDRkQtwJ6BAgSEAI&usg=AOvVaw0kggdi09hcqctmXR58HFVL

@@straybenzes thank you i will check this out.

@@dtg824 Good luck!

That is correct. Stalling is due to not getting enough fuel.

@@straybenzes so can you adjust counter clockwise to get better mpgl if it doesn't stall? Thanks

Did anyone mess with it recently?

@@straybenzes no

@@whynot69734 Oof. That could still be many things either fuel system / pressure, vacuum leak, idle mixture, or also an electrical issue. Sorry that I cannot be of too much help.

Clockwise. If that does not improve the stalling than this was not the problem. Make sure the idle mix/ flow meter gap is set to the best idle. Otherwise take a look at getting the test gauge and review the video about setting up the EHA using the test gauge method.

You may have to turn it the other way, but either way you should be using a proper differential pressure gauge set. There is one more video how to use it. Good luck!

I feel for you. Even in America there are very few people who know enough to work on these older Benzes.

Nice classic car!

Sorry! Which part though?

At 2:10 on the video the almost static picture, look at the right side direct underneath the fuel distributor, then see the 4 small bores (guess 2 for keeping the EHA in its place, the other 2 are were fuel actually flow from the (and again back into) the chambers of the fuel distributor.

When how did this problem start?

@@straybenzes for 1 month. Why do you think it might be?

That could be the EHA out of adjustment. Check main and differential fuel pressure. That would be a good first measure and while you are at it check the little sintered filter in the fuel distributor and clean it out just to be sure that your engine gets enough fuel. @@johnwick-vj1zd

@@straybenzes What could be the reason for it stalling at idle on gasoline? idle valve is working

When you write about the idle valve, do you mean the EHA (electro hydraulic actuator)?@@johnwick-vj1zd