Auto body supply stores carry finger sanding blocks with multiple grit emery cloth that is velcro backed. The pads are about 2 inch by 3/4 inch. These are great for smoothing rough edges or cleaning the surfaces of corroded or pitted blades. They work well for reshaping handles on fixed blade knives or tools to remove hot spots. They are less aggressive than power tools so that you can gradually work to the contour you desire.

What a way to start the day, I scored a Leatherman Sideclip for $25. . . .This all sounds like a job for the Leatherman diamond file.

I'm sure your probably right that there are some sharp edges. But I have calloused hands from working, so I never noticed. Maybe when I retire and get soft hands, I'll probably refer to this video to fix those sharp edges.

What a wealth of knowledge here. This site is well worth joining. I'll be a member for life for sure.

These are really good tips for anyone who hasn't got Lumberjack hands✋...

Was the first thing i did after getting my new wave+ 2h, round of those nasty edges with a fine diamond file. Had a used wave before that i bought used, that must have been a lucky buy, because the pliers worked very smooth (victorinox like) and everything was rounded and smooth. that tip for loosening the pliers was super helpful, this wave came very sticky out of the box but works fine now:) greetings from germany

Ive thought of doing the same to my wave. Ive definitely altered my fingerprint by slicing up the tip of my index finger with that sharp bur near the saw. Thanks for the vid.

I didn't need a Dremel. Just grab a small metal file from another multitool and file it slightly so you wouldn't feel the sharp edges anymore. It looks the same as before. Dremel is a bit overkill IMO

Thanks for sharing! Though I'd use a file or sandpaper for sanding sharp edges on that thin metal. Also adding some tape onto parts you dont want to scratch before touching with a rotary tool can be lifesaver.

Great video as always.

I know this is a year later but hey. Just found your channel. The bolster has the look like you describe in the frame mod on the straight blade side. I only needed a knife, pliers and a driver. The bolster has all of the features and was priced and waited well.

Taking the jimping off the serrated blade removes the visual and tactile identification that lets you know that is the serrated blade if you are not clear on it. Otherwise you have to know that the straight edge is ready to deploy if the scissors are away from the palm. In the dark, the jimping lets you know which way to hold for the blade you want. It might be worth the trade off for some.

Great idea

I see sending it in to Leatherman for warranty and they are like, dang, why didn't we think of that.

Does anyone know what grit is best for this when using sanding paper?

Since you asked if there was a different way I usually do this with Scotch Brite pads in the grinder or flapper wheels Takes less material and just takes the hard edge off

For knocking off the sharp edges on the back of the blades,if you have a worksharp belt sander,itll convex the edges off easily.

Hi Sir, can u put rebar philips on wave plus replacing wave bit holder without grinding plier head stopper pin on wave body?

My hands are bigger than yours and the only parts I have trouble with are the sharp corners at the tip of each blade. Just a simple matter of a couple swipes with the diamond file on another Leatherman and they are taken care of. My used eBay special had some sort of damage on that spot anyway so a little filing and some polishing and fixed

I have the black wave +. Probably not good to do this on mine.

I wouldn't use a Drexel for this. I use a cheap harbor freight belt sander, 400 grit for this. I takes me about 20 minutes to smooth out the fit and finish. I'm not trying to reshape it or interfere with the integrity. I just use it break the factory corners until it's smooth in my hand.

I prefer victorinox wenger more than wave..trus me it work in every situation..

*laughs in Leatherman Bond internal tools and smooth outside edges* *Cries in blade play and annoying lanyard ring placement*

Then use gloves. it's not that dramatic that you have to grind it now. Personally I would never do it.

I know this comment is a bit late and that you know what you are doing, but please for the love of everything sacred, DO NOT touch the business end of a power tool while it's plugged in. It takes literally no effort to unplug them/take the battery out, and it's that much safer... And I know some people that have gotten some nasty injuries from not doing that. You most likely know what you are doing, but it doesn't hurt to be just a little safer.

You people?

I would actually like to see Leatherman's' flagships lose the primary blade. You speak of how uncomfortable it is to use the knife for a long time. I never use the primary edge, and almost never the serrated. Because I carry a real pocket knife, as should everyone, to do cutting tasks. I carry a surge for every other tool in the package. I would like another t shank tool holder in place of the primary at a minimum and even the serrated. Then you have a wood saw, a file and a metal saw with replicable and interchange blades and less need to carry spares/alternates. I would also like to see the micro driver eyeglasses bit able to be used without some grinding and drilling. I get that it's got a knife so you can have an all in one multitool. It's just that for serious cutting, multitools do not offer the appropriate shape to provide good ergonomics. Anyone hard lining the idea of a multitool as a primary cutting tool has some confirmation bias going on. My surge actually saved my beacon last night doing an off road recovery of a subi outback my daughter blew a shock on. I needed to take the hook off a chain to pass it through the recovery points and the cotter pin was trashed. Without the cutters and pliers it would have been a real pain in the arse. Also used it to clean all the hair out of the vaccune cleaner earlier in the day. Ratchet driver to take the guard off and the roller out, and then the can opener to shred the hair. I use it all the time for crap like that. But have rarely used the knife blades. I'd rather have a couple more useful tools onboard. T shank blade n file, tweezers, pick, and eyeglass driver. Then it would be the perfect multitool. I did see your solution for tweezers and pick.