Look at moneybags with the inch thick plywood test bench. These days it would be cheaper to use gold. LOL

Watching this show helps me believe that a man like Ford, Edison or Tesla still exists in America

Return the cooled oil to the cylinder head, not the sump.

I freaking love how the name gets longer and longer each video LOL

I would try routing the cooled oil differently instead of having the cooled oil returning into the sump. see what would happen if you have the cooled oil return into the head through the valve cover.

"If my calculations are correct when this baby hits 88amps your gonna see some serious shit."

Sir, as a representative of the metric crowd, I thank you

Woo! New episode! For an efficient package, you can try running a duct in between the cooling fan of the engine, in front of where the recoil is, and the radiator. To reduce power draw, you could try to use a mechanical fuel pump, the kind that runs on intake pulses or crankcase pulses, to circulate oil. And I'd love to see what simply changing the oil in the car from 20w40, to 10w30 would do for top speed.

Pulse pumps will move oil. Build break repeat did this on their turbo build. Also like many have stated you may want to return the cool oil to a higher point I would use the place where the governor was, assuming you have removed it. Top tins/plate to direct the airflow over the cylinder head fins, normally part of the throttle assembly and fuel tank mount.

KZfaq needs a "That's Friggin AWESOME" button for this channel....

You could try wrapping copper tubing in between the cooling fins of the engine. then circulating water through it, you might need a thermal compound to help transfer the heat. You could also try having direct air cooling, take an old radiator fan and just blast air at the cylinder.

The simple humor and the commentary makes these videos that much better😂😂

Consider using a lithium battery (which can absorb very high rates of charge), connecting an alternator to the drive line of the vehicle, and using the voltage regulator as a form of regenerative braking. Not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze, but could be an option to get you more on-board power.

This series is more captivating than Game of Thrones

I have an old Harley Davidson ironhead Sportster, so named because the jugs and heads are cast iron and yes air cooled. They are know to run quite hot, an Earl's 10 row oil cooler meant for the front of sportbikes works great. I have it mounted vertically in front of the rear tire under the seat area, it is a hardtail so no rear suspension. Amazing how much air flows off a spinning tire, dropped my in tank oil temp from around 230f when thrashing it hard to 180f. Nice seeing another Michigan mad scientist at work.

Always out here making videos about the questions I won't ask anyone, well done.

Try running the engine a tad richer and see how it affects the temperatures.

Not familiar with how the oil is delivered to the bearing on these small engines, but it appears that your recirculation system would drop the oil level in the sump. If it is to low, the slinger (or whatever delivery method) won't be able to pick up the amount necessary for the bearings. Might have cool oil but still lower bearing life. You might consider a stand pipe on the sump connected to secondary oil reservoir. That way you can maintain the designed level at the lower temperature.

@Robot Cantina You might want to re-test the oil cooler. You had tons of air in the lines, which can impact temps. Maybe a return higher than the resting oil level. so your pump isn't fighting as hard. Lastly, get some old cpu heat sinks and bond them to the pump, help it stay cool without adding to much weight. Scamazon sells the bonding agent, or you could just use zip ties and some thermal paste. Hope this helps love this series.

I agree with routing to the valve cover with the cool oil. Also a pulse style fuel pump that works off the crankcase pressure pulse may work.

So from reading the comments, put the outlet of the oil cooler to the top of the motor. Run a big hose(like a clothes dryer exhaust hose) from the front of the car to the fan inlet on the motor to ensure the cooling air coming in to the motor is as cool as possible. Add an alternator on an axle where the alternator field is only energized when you hit the brakes for a regenerative braking kind of power increase.

I just had a funny chuckle over the pull cord for your light as I seen LOAD!

". . . And I'm a good neighbor but not that good" lol

Excellent work, love all the instrumentation and differential analysis! To few youtubers do this anymore.

The cube of knowledge really got me

This has been a very interesting series. Really helps in my understanding in why modern cars are built like they are and what the engineering challenges are. I'd love to see you test: - Running the oil cooler without air bubbles - Running the oil back into the head - Putting a thermostat on the oil pump - Running copper water cooling lines around the head to a rad with a thermostat controlled pump - Test different oils - More load and RPM (how far can you take these motors with an oil cooler? water cooler?)

Excellent testing procedures and results. Back in the 70's at least one company sold liquid cooled heads for the Honda Odyssey 250. I believe a similar system would be the best option for the Predator as it eliminates all the issues with over/under filling the crankcase with a pump. The modified Odyssey did not require a water pump, it used the thermal siphon method, simple, trouble free and very effective.

I have a date today, and now that I see the video I'm sure it's gonna go great. Thank you for all the talking points.

Upgrade to a Marco .88 LPM pump, add a piston cooling jet, split the oil feed off to the valve cover to help control cylinder head temp, add a thermistor to control a fan mounted to the oil cooler and a deaeration chamber like a catch can before the pump. 👍🏽 Building this on a predator 420 for a golf cart currently.

I’d like to see this repeated but using a pump that doesn’t incorporate air bubbles and adding a typical 12v pusher fan mounted on the cooler Really great work👏👏

I witnessed the cooling effect of the oil cooler first hand in cold starts On a alpine A310, and a 5 turbo 1 i owned. There was eng temp gauge and oil temp gauge. When the engine reached 98 deg C. The oil cooler thermostat opened. Immediately the engine temp would drop from 98c to 40c, and oil temp would rise from 0 to approx 40c. So efficiant oil cooling is essential.

love the new outro it's like something out of This Old House

I would love to see this video with one more run. The oil cooler in front of the engines cooling fan with a duct to pull air optimally through the cooler first. Then maybe another setup where you put a more high powered “radiator” type fan directly on the oil cooler in an auxiliary area away from the engine.

Love this series. You take a boring, ugly and underpowered vehicle even more underpowered. You manage to make that very fun to watch. Now, I'll get to watching this episode 😃

When I worked at a golf course years ago we used to get clogged up recoil caps.. One of the maintenance guys just used a few inches of pvc sewer pipe with a fan in the end of it and it worked like a charm... Never had to worry about clogging or overheating again... Made my job sooo much easier!...

Thanks I really enjoy your videos, not only informative, but entertaining as well. Keep them coming.....

I was going to do a similar thing a year ago but not for cooling, was going to filter it instead. Exactly how you did it with a fuel pump etc into the 2 drain plugs. Neat stuff.

I'm not an expert on the predator series engines, however I would imagine that pushing that oil back into the engine below the oil level is not a long term solution. We see this with scavenge pumps on rear mount turbo engines, ideal would be to have it run to the VC, then naturally accumulate back into the oil supply in the crank case. Your data was pretty much as expected, and with a few tweaks should be a nice solution to maintaining acceptable bottom end temps. I understand your numbers were more for Deltas, but unfortunately, measuring CYL head temps from the outside, especially on an air cooled engine doesn't really tell us whats important, which are the cyl temps themselves. With any engine, the biggest IAT change (pre combustion) its time spent post-throttle body, specifically the milliseconds it exists in the cyl before combustion. Finding a way to measure that, and furthermore bring that down as much as possible is going to be the ticket to this engine not only making power, but surviving it. Thats another reason why I've said it before, and I still stand by it, going to a supercharger is going to be a mistake for this engine. The popular opinion of "Turbos run hotter" is inaccurate, and matched with the same popular idea that turbo lag is gonna be a problem. Aside from the fact that a properly sized charger will spool almost immediately, that engine spends most of its time at WOT, making turbo lag nowhere near the problem people want to make it out to be. What will in fact be a problem, is a properly sized supercharger spending almost all of its time being spun up (at what should be) its near maximum flow. Not only will it be extremely parasitic, but the IATs will be terrible. Your money, your content, your car, I'm all for it regardless.. however, the best way to skin this cat is with a knife, not a spoon.

You could try a higher volume pump also, if the oil returned into the valve cover it would circulate the cool oil through the head even though it does not have a pressurized system.

Great video update. Really impressed with your craftsmanship, video work, and the fact that you read every single comment. I'm a few days late, but, keep up the good work. Really looking forward to the supercharger video.

I don't know how many times I've run into stuff on KZfaq that really, really brightens my day, but your videos are one (is one?). They're helping me forget about at least some of the root canal that I went through yesterday. Don't know why it still hurts, but I blame Dental ineptitude. It's not my fault that brushing my teeth has made me gag since I was in short pants. Once again. thanks for the videos!

I think it would have made a huge difference to the head if you fed the oil back through the valve cover.

I would recommend a pulse pump instead of electric and maybe a way to bypass the cooler when it’s not under load or perhaps on a thermal switch. You want to be able to cook off any condensation in the oil.

Something is wrong with me. I have no interest in anything mechanical but here I am following you 24 episodes later. Keep it up I’m learning stuff I wouldn’t intentionally learn.

Wrap the Cylinder Jug (between the fins) in copper tubing and run water or antifreeze through a radiator, along with running the oil cooler!

Love that Michigan 212cc license plate

A great start to my Friday. Thanks for the excellent video!

CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!

Those spiders are called harvestmen. Definitely not a creepy name at all.

So glad someone tried the fuel pump to pump oil i have my 212 with piston pointing straight up for vintage motorcycle replica was wanting to use a pump to pump oil to the valve train now i know it works had it all setup but havent tried it since bike frame not done i still have engine apart so im glad my fuel/oil pump is going to work

Under the circumstances, it seems that forcing air flow by the fins on the cylinder is the best solution. Can't wait for the injector episode.

Run the return oil into the valve cover so it can cool the head more.

Return the oil to the valve cover. It will aid in cooling the head slightly but mainly to get rid of some of the bubbles as to not airrate the oil.

Throw one of those flexible solar panels on the roof or hood to power your electrical needs. No more parasitic loss from the generator/coil = more power to the wheels!

Nothing to add, just having fun. Nice that you are building the HEMI to last, hopefully we will get a daily driver review when the dust has settled. lol.

copper pipe through cooling fins on head, have oil come though head pipes after making it though the sump first. Also add a reservoir to eliminate bubbles before radiator since the engine has a lot of oil agitation.

"We're going to add an oil cooler, but the engine has no oil pump...."

Live in an area of 100 plus tems. Installed a small trans oil cooler on my 9,000wt gen set , mounted it lower than the drain pug at a 10 degree angle, removed the engine shut down switch installed a fitting that I plugged and then drilled with a 1/16 drill, ran the oil hose to the higher ditto g on the cooler. Installed a fitting in place of the drain plug and ran the host from it,,, to the lower trans cooler fitting.

Thank you I've been thinking about doing this for about a year and have never found a video about it

Your elaborate jokes and kinda weird but I really like them. Awesome video!

This is so much fun. You are doing all the goofy stuff I have considered doing myself... along with all the data collection. Very neat. Thanks for taking all the time, which is most certainly significant. Then capturing and editing all the video on top... BIG THANKS!

I would like to see water injection. Thanks having a lot of fun with this series

What about pumping the oil from the cooler into the valve cover? it would help cool the head down as the oil runs back down into the bottom end... just have to watch that the bottom end doesn't get starved of oil... you could also add a ram air duct that directs cool air directly to the recoil area? Then add additional shrouding and ductwork to direct the hot air towards the back of the hood where a vent could be cut to allow it to escape? Are you planning to experiment with water/meth injection? Regardless of what you do, keep it up

The cabin air intake is located in the higher air pressure zone where the windscreen and hood meet (that’s why heater coils and AC evap coils are in the firewall) of most cars. If this car had AC before getting re-engined, there will be a condensate drain lower on the firewall you can source cooler air to direct over oil cooler/cyl head from…if you can’t plumb a duct from the front of the car. A bigger front duct would be more effective. And get those bubbles out of the oil line!

It's nice to see someone give numbers for something I've done on a gocart in the past.. we used a small Harley oil cooler on one of our 301cc predator buggy carts on top of removing the recoil pull system.. which i though based off long term running had done a good job, but i never really measured it

I love when I see you uploaded a new video. Very detailed and informative!!

I loved that you have a can of whoop ass!

Keep up the good work! Love all your vids so far. 👍👍

Check cooling air intake temperatures while driving. It maybe higher then ambient in which case you could duct air to the engine cooling fan shroud making a cool air intake. If the engine is recirculating heated air the engine will run hotter to overheat.

In addition to squirting the cooled oil onto the piston skirt a small hole drilled through the skirt will allow more heat transfer away from the cylinder.

With your shop skills, you could probably remake the manual starter with some strap steel and forgo all the restrictive surrounding metal.

Use a vacuum fuel pump for the oil pump. They use them on Kohler engines and they mount the valve cover.

Another great video, very nicely done, I like your test rig, still can't wait to see the lil roots supercharger installed on the car, as far as a charging system, if you didn't want to lose the starter to add an alternator instead of an alternator get a starter generator and it will do both jobs, I don't think it would be hard for you to retrofit that into the system

Like your methodical and scientific approach. I think most people fail with their EFI conversions due to the lack of sensible plan. I am surprised you didn't take a baseline reading of the crankcase vacuum and pressure. This may help to determine if you are actually causing excessive crankcase pressure when running the oil pump that maybe affecting the cylinder head temperature. In addition, how come you didn't read the spark plug for temperature changes? Maybe Colortune to get an idea of your combustion temperature? It would be great if you made some type of volocity stack where you removed the pull starter to cool down the engine. Look forward to your next episode.

Oil cooler is something I swear by. My brother in law had a 4x4 exactly like mine. I had a oil cooler and he didn’t, my vehicle always ran cool in Baja.

You could get into the lubrication system and use the pump from the engine to pump the oil through the cooler then into the various parts of the motor. If the motor you are using has an oil filter, you can do a sandwich and pull from there and pump cooled oil to all the parts of the engine. (you're not talking about high pressures on an engine like this). You would just need to be sure to prime the system adequately before going past idle to make sure you have oil pressure on the initial fill... after that it should stay full of oil. Also I noticed your engine RPM varied from 3400 something all the way to 3600 something... that will change a few things too.

I can remember which brand of aftermarket flywheel it is maybe arc or pvl but it has such a greater cooling effect they recommend blocking off someof the passages in the recoil cover to maintain the correct engine temps so if you buy one of those you wont have to worry about the oil cooler set up. You need to watch the arc racing tech videos here on youtube.. they go over the optimal temps these engines like... i like to idea of adding the oil cooler but at speeds in the vehicle i dont think you'll need it with the aftermarket flywheel. Keep up the good work! 👍

Fantastic yay the knomes are back with a dastly plan

If the project really continues, I bet we'll see water-cooled head like in Porsche 959. lol

8" duct ram air from home depot to pull start opening ,, maybe intercooler . nothing to fancy lol love the vids !!!

Use a 6 in blower fan and ducting onto the engines fins. Flexible copper tubing wrapped around the engine with coolant.

Blow light water mist on the intake of the fan. When I have to deal with an overheating racecar on the track it works like magic every time.

A swirl pot (purge tank) is the way to eliminate air bubbles in the lines. Oil cooling has a huge potential in adding to the longevity and reliability of the Predator, the concept still needs some work. Thanks for this very interesting video, more please!

Ayyy you tried my idea, keep up the great work dude

So wonderful to see! Also, it was a bit of fun with the IKEA reference, since I am born and raised in Sweden, which is were that absolute crap comes from. It took IKEA many years before they started including manuals in their products, so it wasn't actually that easy in the beginning. Well, thank you for that gratuitous piece of information Alicia. Seriously, I truly enjoy your work. Everything is well done. The vioce, the camera angles and the editing. Be well and stay healthy. Alicia.

I love your load bank! It's actually relatively similar to compact mobile load banks I work with apart from the ceramic load resistors for elements. Nonetheless for a mostly stationary unit I applaud the simplicity and effectiveness.

I drilled a hole into the side of the block a little above the drainplug, put a steel straw in and JB welded it to seal, cut it off sticking out the block and ran a line from that to the old governor control arm hole. Should be decent lubrication dropping right on top of the crank

One of the few channels I actually have notifications turned on

When the car is moving the cooler will be more efficient. Try using thinner oil. Put a thermostat on the engine to duty cycle the oil flow for less electrical load. Maybe a check valve will keep air out of the oil line. Maybe funnel air from outside the engine bay to the engine head with a tube. E85 will probably burn hotter.

Awesome video and commentary.

Thanks for doing the things we dream to do and don't have the time to try. Best wishes to you.

Great stuff yet again

Them Gnomes are at it again... May want to check that fan nut to see if they haven't loosened it. About the Pull start issue. Maybe a extentsion part to put it further away (provided there's space for it and it somehow accomidates the Supercharger setup?) Or mount the pull start on the other side or a belt driven pull start thing? ( a pully, bearing, pull start assembly all in one like that alternator)

Thanks for the video when I was a kid we made a wagon that had a eight horse motor alternator AC compressor off a 69 Cutlass you could pump tires up and jump cars off called it my junkyard buddy

VW Beetle. 50s, 60s, 70s. Had all that sorted out. Look to that for inspiration.

There's probably some kinda siphon effect kinda like a coffee maker that you could use to cool the engine without a pump

I haven't watched yet, but I'm sure it's going to be great.

Maybe add a large heatsink to the bottom of the engine with an air scoop.

Great Scott!!

All hale the mighty cube of knowledge