Fish For Thought thanks for watching man. Yeah, most hobbyists should be running lower light. Medium light with pressurized CO2 is a very easy setup to maintain. Too much light or too little light is often an issue for many hobbyists.

Lets-Make-a-Deal hey thanks for watching. Just got a Blue Yeti mic so the audio should be better from now on. Thanks for the kind words

colinbarsby indeed. Even I was forgetting. Haha. Should have seen all the fuzz and beard algae. This method worked way faster than anything else, and no chemicals! Thanks for watching man

We all thank you Dave for sharing your knowledge and skills. THX.

D.P.K Fish Aquariums hey thanks for the kind words and for watching!

JRPy Fish-n-Game you're welcome. Thanks for the kind words!

Now it is. Hahaha. Should have seen it before! Thanks for watching man

fin doe thanks for watching!

Kyle Weltner glad I could help. These methods are very effective. Thanks for watching! Also no chemicals are used and it is very cost effective too

Kicx14 thanks! Glad you are enjoying this scape. It is looking good now. Should have seen it before. Haha

Prathmesh Aquatics hey thanks for watching and glad you like the scape!!

AQUAPROS hey thanks for checking in celebrity. Haha. Should have seen the tank before. Total disaster.

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ADU Aquascaping 😘

Ricardo Ortiz sounds like my tank. It was pretty bad before. Yeah just rip it out. You'll be happy you did in a few weeks. Thanks for watching man

H.C. Aqua thanks for watching! Was a pain for a bit. Total disaster

DMAN D thanks!! Glad you like it. It is now... Before I was really worried. Luckily these methods were effective. Hope your tanks are doing well.

TheBossManhunt thanks, glad you enjoyed it

Haha, yeah that would be too expensive and may lead to more algae if the CO2 starts fluctuating. May have to manually remove it by hand and do some deep maintenance. Remove detritus and clean filter. I once had a lot off bba in one of my setups and I basically had to just manually remove it, increase O2 and CO2 and keep up on more frequent maintenance until it was gone. Getting rid of most algae just takes manual work once it is established. Or get SAEs, but I don't like them anymore. They always eat my mosses.

Robert Abila indeed. Finally. It was a total disaster.

Rod S hey that sounds good to me. Similar methodology. Both are from a gardening perspective vs using chemicals or gadgets. This is better overall because we are solving the issue and not just using a band-aid. Will make it easier to maintain in the end. Well I only cut all the leaves off because all of them were heavily infested with algae. Should have seen the scape before. Total disaster. So far these methods are working better than most I have tried. Thanks for the support and for watching.

Samuel St-Pierre thanks! And thanks for watching.

Rommel R I have some Other cats and a bunch of shrimp, but they weren't doing the job. SAEs do work well. I can't mess up the scale of my tank! Haha. I am an aquascaping snob. Ha

Otos*

+ADU Aquascaping I see what you’re saying there about messing up your scale. I have some praecox rainbows and it does mess up the scale. I love them though but an aquarist told me the humane way to let go is to use clove oil if you know what I mean, it’s a terrible thought.

Rommel R Well if you do end up getting rid of them you could put them in a garden if possible. Not pleasant if you have become attached. I used to put fish in my garden from time to time. Better than nothing. Or trade them in at your LFS if they do trades.

lovinmzre Thanks for watching. Haha. Yeah they may love it. Just keep up on your maintenance and stay consistent!

dtip4life 8472 thanks for watching. Yes cleaning the detritus can also really help to reduce organics and algae growth. And you are right. A lot of issues can come from too much light or too little light. It sounds like your light may have not been adequate and caused algae from poor growth, so increasing the light in that situation makes sense. Glad your tank is doing better and thanks for watching.

matthew smith It could have been a cycling issue. The BOD may have been high. Most tanks start off with high BOD and then it gets Lower as root mass and bacteria mature. Well you can have Black beard in high flow, but low flow could induce it even more.

Jesse Norman I am actually really glad you noticed that. Light and CO2 work synergistically with photosynthesis. If you increase CO2 less energy will be needed for CO2 fixation. This frees up energy to be used towards more efficiently creating chlorophyll. This also works the other way to some degree, but if you add too much light with little CO2 it is more risky. But the extra light can free up energy so the plants can better fixate the available CO2. In a low CO2 environment it would more than likely be in the bicarbonate form and they would be fixating that. This is of course a harder environment to balance and runs the risk of algae compared to the low to medium light environment with more CO2. Tropica of Denmark did an entire scientific study on the topic. You may be able to Google: How light and CO2 work together Tropica, and it may come up. Claus is one of the authors of the paper. Of course higher light and high CO2 make it easier, but you can actually reach a saturation level of light that is too much for some plants and slows down growth. This is why shade loving plants love the shade and produce more chlorophyll in low light. They will also grow faster and spread out more in low light. High light can shock them and reduce growth and chlorophyll production. Hope this helps. Most people will probably not even pick up on the significance of that comment. Thanks for noticing and for watching.

rdrdghd soil and root tabs will add a lot of nutrients especially in the beginning. Over time you may need to dose. I usually dose liquid fertilizers if I have a lot of mosses, Buces and Anubias. If you have really fast growth and high light you will need to as well. You can always dose small amounts. Just minimally dose. Do half the recommended dose for example.

Most tank setups are low to medium light, so I always dose small amounts unless I am a setup that is really high light and CO2.

Gotcha, thank you very much! I think I'll pick up a bottle of that UNS plant food for sooner light dosing. :)

j03yYunG Aquariums just keep up on your maintenance and try implementing the husbandry techniques mentioned in the video.

Yeah its hard with 17+ tanks. :/ I can keep x1 looking nice though :)

Steve Hung Currently I am running only one. I had two on there from my last scape. My last scape I needed two just for the look I was going for. I ran the lighting at only 35% of full power for both lights. Currently, with one fixture, I am running it at 50% of full power.

E. K thanks for the kind words. It is Manzanita driftwood. I collected it locally. It grows in the Western US. And also likes to grow under Ponderosa pine trees. Just have to talk to your local Forest Service about getting a permit. That is if you live close to some

James Goose After this semester just 18 more credits to go. Should be done by next Christmas. Will be a total of 5 years, which is about average for a science degree. Can't wait. I am getting tired of school. Haha. Sounds about right. That's usually how it is for me. Had to do that with some of my mini Christmas moss, but now it's doing a lot better. My next video is going to be on how to care for mini Christmas moss.

Sullivan Proctor thanks, glad you like it. It would be safe plant wise, but a Betta would probably eat the shrimp. I have a lot of baby Sunkist Orange Sakura shrimp in here.

I do both. Currently I am using tap water. Also, my tap water is liquid rock. It has really high carbonate hardness. If you have a neutral pH than even better. If you have really hard water than you may want to use pressurized CO2 and dose liquid fertilizers. Essentially a high-tech setup. A low-tech setup doesn't do as well with hard water. It is harder to get the plants to grow as well or as easily. In a low-tech setup you always want a more neutral pH. If the tap water is too hard it will impede growth. Hope this gives you some more ideas. Also, when I use RO/DI water I only use it because it allows me to know exactly what is going into the tank. It is more of a control measure if using it with a high-tech setup. Just allows you to have a consistent and measured approach.If you ever do use RO/DI water you can reconstitute the water with potassium bicarbonate.

Pray4Mojo It is mind blowing. Plants are pretty awesome in a lot of ways. I had a similar situation with some mini pellia. Just grows from spores, so you can get a large amount from a single spore. Thanks for watching

Harry Finley no you won't have to. It is based more on submersed growth vs the initial emersed growth, for most hobbyists. And also relative to the root mass and microbial fauna mass as well. In the beginning of a setup all of these criteria are in an immature condition.

ADU Aquascaping nice one Thankyou!

Roger Dedham hey thanks for watching!! Milk algae? Is it a bacterial bloom?

UV will help with bacterial blooms and green water. Frozen food should be fine. Maybe just dial it back a bit.

Steve Story I have seen that quite a bit with sand too. Probably just dust algae. Not much you can do other than mix the sand or siphon the top layer if you find it unattractive.

I didn't. I collected it in the woods. You can go to manzanita-driftwood.com/

KUBUSS SS thanks!! Glad you like it

Aquaria Photography An API Filstar medium size canister filter.

Watch my Diatoms series

Haha, what's funny is I probably didn't know what to call it, so I went with it. Actually got it from electric guitar lingo haha

I don't have CO2, can I use excel and how much? I have 5 gal fluval spec V and now after 2 months I started seeing string algae. I am removing it everyday with tweezers but keeps growing back. as per your advise, I will cut the plants with algae and do more water changes (twice a week) and reduce light period from 8 hours to 6 hours ... anyother advise or would this be enough? Thanks bro!

Shawky hineidi Excel, if overdosed with caution, can help subdue algae growth, but as a CO2 alternative it actually doesn't add much additional CO2 to the aquarium. You can use it and even slowly increase the recommended dosing amount to double those levels. It has some algicide like properties.

ok, will slowly increase the excel hoping it will help beat the algae. will also start saving up for a proper CO2 system. Thanks for the prompt response bro. I was actually watching your other videos on water flow. MAN if I knew about your channel before, things would have been much easier. I am new to this hobby but I think with your informative videos, I will learn a lot and fast!! keep it up Sir!

Dream Team It is more than likely tannins from the wood if it is yellow brown tea color. It can take some wood a long time to release all the tannins. Algae isn't usually brown in color. Could take the wood out and do a few water changes and see if the coloration goes away after you take the wood out. That way you can determine if it is the wood causing the discoloration.

Candyfloss well it should be diatoms. Usually a sign that the microbial fauna have not fully matured. Is it a new tank or any fluctuations in water quality or oxygen levels?

ADU Aquascaping Tank's been setup for a year. Have a powerhead breaking up the surface for oxygen. Has been planted from the start. I hear that silicate from sand can do this?

Candyfloss that isn't true. Just a myth. It is a sign of fluctuating microbial fauna. Nutrient imbalances, O2, etc... May have to do a deep cleaning of filter, increase O2. Over time microbial beds naturally balance to include mostly Ciliate colonies. The cycle may be restarting or being reset by other factors. Usually fluctuations in water quality.

When you say 'microbial fauna' do you mean the beneficial bacteria in the filter?

Candyfloss yes, everywhere really. Growing in the filter, on plants, rocks, etc... Over time a microbial colony will have different stages. Usually it starts with diatoms. This is why you see them first. Healthy microbial colonies include mainly Ciliate colonies. Besides bacteria. These are multi cellular organisms. It is just a natural occurrence seen throughout nature. If the water has a good bioload balance, which is related to organic levels, O2 levels, and circulation, than the multi cellular organism colonies will be primarily Ciliates. A balanced aquarium will usually have low organic waste if you are keeping up on your maintenance, so our aquariums are rather sterile in these colony concentrations versus a natural body of water. If you keep getting diatoms than your colonies may be resetting or are stressed. May be from low O2, fluctuations in filter performance, etc... It is hard to say exactly what the cause is, but this is how the colonies operate. It is a bell curve on a graph. Far left is diatoms, ciliates center of curve, and larger protozoan on the far right. Colonies with more predatory protozoan on the far right of the curve usually appear when there is far too much pollution. Ciliates I explode eat all the organics and then predators step in. You may be seeing Rhizo algae. This algae looks very similar to filamentous diatoms, but is an algae. Try increasing O2, circulation, and cleaning the detritus from the top layer of substrate and within the filter. Treat your water if using tap water with Seachem Prime, and trim and prune decaying or unhealthy leaves from plants. And keep up on maintenance. Consistent maintenance is key to success. And also high O2.

Thanks for watching as always man. At this time I am not doing any promotional videos or spotlight videos. Just too busy with school. I am doing senior classes and projects. Thanks for the offer and as always thanks for watching.

jack sparrow hahaha, thanks. You will have to put up with me staying up all night and constantly rearranging the scape. But I do play guitar to my fish

theklrdude oo Yes it may be too warm for the moss if the lighting isn't very high

sagrath1982 thanks as usual!!!! I agree. Should have seen it before. Tons of fuzz and Black beard algae. Even some chladophora

ADU Aquascaping can’t believe it! I set up a need tank and this tank was the inspiration for is but since it is discus many plants don’t like warm Water but these ones seem To work good, I got little algae since I set up with cycled media and substrate. Awesome video as usual and tank.

MASS Aquariums may just have to manually remove it. SAEs can help. Increase O2 and CO2. Just to make the gas concentration more stable. A higher gas flux creates more even distribution of gases throughout the tank.

Reduce organics. Clean filter and top layer of susbtrate. Prune and trim plants

Wes Ley я не знаю

Tilman Baumann that would be limiting it too much. I agree. Hobbyists usually have too much light or too little light when running into algae issues or poor growth. Not including flow, temperature, and O2 levels. Those also play a role, but a medium light tank with CO2 and adequate fertilization is very easy to maintain. More sustained growth as well.

yep yes that can help. I have a clean up crew. This method of making light the limiting factor is a very effective method to use. Over time you can increase light as the plant density goes up. Manually removing the algae and doing more frequent water changes also quickens the process. A clean up crew is not a substitute for good husbandry techniques.

Totally agree. I had 2 tuna suns on a 40g and found it was too much. Either burned the plants. So did exactly what you said.