Fantastic to hear! Any future questions or assistance needed just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks Brotha! Greatly appreciate it!!

Absolutely wonderful to hear that! If you need and further assistance or have future questions or needs please let us know. Warmest regards

100%! Glad it was helpful for you. If you need anything else just let us know :)

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. When the unit dies down and stops, how many blinks are you seeing on the status light? Does this happen in Room Temp mode, Stove Temp Mode or both? When the unit is running, how does your fire look? Is it crisp and torchy or does it have any laziness/waviness to the fire? With the control board knob issue you mentioned, could be something with the potentiometer that the control board knob/shaft connects into. You can pull the shaft out of the control board to see if the shaft end looks worn/not making good connection into the potentiometer. It's a plastic pronged end; should snap firmly in place. Generally when customers experience this it is the potentiometer itself that has become worn. In most cases that would warrant a new circuit/control board, however I do believe there are various outlets where repair work can be completed on control/circuit boards. Keep us posted, happy to help troubleshoot and guide you in the right direction. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. I'm not aware of any cleaner that is suggested or recommended for the control/circuit boards. I do think during annual maintenance it is good to have compressed air to clean off any dust or debris. Periodically moving the dials during the on and off season is also another good way to keep things tip top especially if there is high humidity. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us Paul, happy to help. The 4 Output Platinum Circuit Board is going to be the only circuit board offered for the Advance. This board is designed for the Advance as well as other Harman Models. If there are defects with the board, there is a 90 day manufacturer warranty. I would suggest double checking all electrical connections and dip switch settings and give it one more try. Double check the knobs and shafts put in to make sure they are installed correctly. I would also recommend giving the ESP probe a cleaning - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odpnodF4sr-5XZ8.html If you are still experiencing issues from there, I would contact the retailer you purchased the board from so they can file a warranty and get you a new board. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Hey Brent, thanks for contacting us. Yes the PP38 is a great model. The cleaner it is the more efficient it will operate. Cleaning the fan paddle periodically is a great thing to do. With your blowers being intermittent, I would suggest we first check the ESP Probe in the exhaust and give it a good cleaning- Video here on how to do that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odpnodF4sr-5XZ8.html Yes, we do carry the control board. Harman no longer makes the simple rotary board for the PP38 - There is now a retro-fit control board that has the built in thermostat. Here is a link so you can view. pellethead.com/product/harman-p38-circuit-board-retrofit-upgrade-kit-pre-serial-008190059/. If you already have the thermostat control board in your PP38, then this would be the correct replacement- pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models/ Keep us posted, happy to help!

Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we wouldn't have an anwser for that. I would suggest doing some general searches for control/circuit board repair or speaking to local electricians that work with appliance circuit boards. Thanks for reaching out.

Thanks for contacting us. Being nothing runs in test mode would cause me to lean more towards this being a circuit board issue here. Are you getting any status light blinks? Vacuum switch is only in line with auger motor and only comes into play in stove temp or room temp mode, not test mode. Test mode the distribution blower, combustion blower, and feed motor should run for 1 minute. Generally when we hear a combustion blower getting noisy, it usually indicates it's on it's last leg. You can certainly pull it out and do some cleaning on the motor and fan paddle to see if that makes a difference. Let's start with your status light - let us know if you are getting a blink sequence in stove temp or room temp modes. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we do not have a video on that for the Advance model, however we can walk you through it. You'll need to remove the side panel on the control board side. I believe it's two 5/16" bolts to loosen and the panel will slide all the way out. From there you will be able to see and access the circuit board and fuse on the board. If you need to remove the circuit board, you will pull off the knobs on the front faceplate first, then on the back side where the circuit board is located it is pressed fit into each corner just like the video here. With a little pressure you can release each corner of the circuit board, then disconnect the wiring to pull it all the way out. A great light will be a very helpful tool, and make sure the stove is unplugged from the wall when perfoming this work. Any other questions let us know, happy to help!

Thank you! 🙏🏽 These are the best and most informative videos ever! I was able to figure this out, replace the fuse, pop the panel back in, give the whole machine a good cleaning, and cranked her right up. Thanks again!!

@@JPAstoria Awesome to hear! Really appreciate the kind words and most importantly that the videos were helpful and you are back up and cranking out heat again! Any questions or needs down the road let us know. Always here to help.

Thanks for contacting us. I think it will be important to determine if the igniter is in operable ohm range first. Video below on how to check the ohms on your igniter. If the igniter is in operable ohm range, I think we should take a closer look at the control board and electrical connections on the control board. Proper ohm range for a Harman igniter that's in a P61A should be 45-53 ohms. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJqnoKaUnpzWhn0.html Here's a link to the Harman igniter replacement which may be helpful as you inspect your igniter element. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n52eZLaEzKm0fZc.html Keep us posted, happy to assist.

Hey Gary, thanks for the message, happy to help. Glad the videos are helpful! That small dial next to the igniter LED light on the front of the control board is a micro-adjustment for the combustion/exhaust fan voltage. Clockwise will increase, Counter Clockwise will decrease. Generally that dial only needs adjustment if we have an odd venting configuration (Tall vertical rise or multiple elbows) or if the stove is operating in high altitude environments. Again, it is a micro-adjustment so you are not going to see a drastic change. If you have a standard venting configuration and are at normal altitudes I would suggest you turn the dial all the way to the left, then all the way to the right so you can know where the middle is and have it set there. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Thank you so very much for you speedy reply and sharing your knowledge!

@@garylanders1470 Absolutely! Happy to help Gary. Any questions down the line just give us a shout. Appreciated!

Thanks for contacting us Jeremy. The XXV will be control board 1-00-05886. The XXV-TC (Touch Control Model) will use a different board. Being you mentioned toggle switch, the 05886 will be the correct replacement for you. Here is a link for reference. pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Hey Ryan, If you are not getting any lights and you verified the fuse is good and outlet was good, then more then likely yes, it would be a circuit/control board issue. You can always closely check the wiring and wiring of the power cord coming in as well as connections to the board. It could be that the wire harness wiggled loose. Check the simple things first. If you do require a new board, here is the correct one. We guarantee the best prices and fastest shipping pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-circuit-board-control-panel/ Thanks,

Thanks for contacting us. Just heard back from our lead tech on this: The dial in the middle of the board is the draft adjustment and I have never had a situation where that would need to be changed. The default position for that dial would be -00 or the dial turned all the way clockwise. The extra set of wires in the J2 position is for an auger micro switch on the feed system of the older stoves. This would give the board a signal when the auger was moving but with the new boards this switch has been made obsolete and now everything is controlled by the ESP and room probes. I would recommend removing the switch and wires that go to it to prevent them from getting tangled in other components or at least zip tie them up and out of the way. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Awesome!!! Thank you...

@@scotta.sander7227 Most welcome Scott! Any other questions or needs just let us know!

Thanks so much Sarah!

Thanks for contacting us Joel. If your control board panel does not have the ignition toggle opening, then you must have a P61. Harman made a P61 and a P61A - The P61 does not have auto ignition and requires manual lighting of the fire. The P61A has auto ignition. If you do have a P61 that will be a different control board than the P61A. Here are some reference links. P61: pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/ P61A: pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ Happy to help, let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

@@EarthSense thank you for responding. I was mistaken. My wife told me the model was P61a. I went and looked and actually it says P61-2. Is that the same as P61?

@@joelaustin4316 Our pleasure Joel. Yes, the P61-2 will be the exact same as the P61. Any other questions please let us know.

@@EarthSense I cant seem to find a control board for P61 or P61-2. Is there another control board that is interchangeable?

@@joelaustin4316 Hey Joel, It is a specific control board for the P61/P61-2. This board also fits other Harman models such as the Invincible and newer P38 models. Here is a link for reference - pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/ There have been several part numbers over the years, these would be the correct ones for this board: 3-20-00928 | 3-20-05378 | 3-20-05890 | 1-00-06142 Hope that is helpful, thanks.

The original rotary style turn knob control board for the P38 is no longer manufactured (Hasn't been for many years now). There is a retro-fit kit for the P38 that will convert it to the thermostat control board. You could always search sites like Ebay to see if anyone is selling the original rotary control board. If you need a reference link to the retro-fit control board just let us know. Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us Elly, mistakes happen, it's ok, we make them all the time :). Sounds like the there was an electrical short there. Yes, first thing I would suggest is checking the fuse on the control board and replacing that. I believe it is a 6amp fuse in there, but double check when you take it out. Make sure the unit is unplugged from the wall, remove the screws from the control board panel face and gently pull the control board out so you can access the fuse on the backside. Let's start there, let us know what you find. Appreciated,

Hey Jay, Thanks for the message, happy to help. Jumping the thermostat wires will not allow the control board to indicate/sense correctly to operate in Room Temp Mode. It could be your control board, however I would suggest that you purchase a new Room Sensing Probe first as that may solve your issue here. Here is a link to the Room Sensing Probe, they are pretty inexpensive and I think it's the best place to start for you. pellethead.com/product/harman-room-air-temp-sensor-thermostat-sensing-probe-wire/. Keep us posted, we are happy to help and get you back to 100%. Cheers,

@@EarthSense Thanks- Ordered the thermostat probe- hopefully it'll fix the problem

Keep us posted Jay. Thanks

Thanks for contacting us. So whether you are in Stove Temp or Room Temp Mode the unit is running at full blast? If the heat regulation is not functioning correctly, it generally has to do with the Exhaust ESP probe, control board, or a combo of the two. Here's a video on cleaning the ESP probe. Let's try that first and see if there are any changes to the operation. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odpnodF4sr-5XZ8.html Keep us posted, happy to help.

@@EarthSense I bought the control board already waiting for that to come in, I've never taken apart the back of the pellet stove before and don't even know where to start with that honestly. I'm afraid I'm gonna take the pipe off and won't be able to put it back on. Sounds pretty lame but it's probably easier than it looks.

@@yendothegamer9880 Thanks for the message back. I'll link our Harman igniter video here as that will show removal of the rear panels on a P68. Pretty strait forward just need a 5/16" nut driver to remove - If it is too close to the wall to work on, the great thing about Harman is the exhaust snout has a quick disconnect hub. There are 3 - 3/8" bolts to remove the exhaust hub and you can then wiggle the stove out to provide enough room to work on without having to disconnect the vent pipe or peal away silicone sealant. We can most certainly walk you through the process however you need help. Keep us posted. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n52eZLaEzKm0fZc.html

@@EarthSense I just bought that exact circuit board in the video I compared it to the one in my p68 harman and there is one hookup that does not exist on the new one it's a white head that has a black and a red wire with a grey housing. Did I get the wrong one?

My old circuit board has no dip switch at all

Matt, thanks for contacting us. Thanks for the explanation, sounds like you do a great job with your maintenance. If there is soot as you described in most cases this would be a combustion issue. What does your fire look like? Is it vigerous and torchy or is it slightly wavy/lazy? You've checked a lot of areas which is great. In several cases this would be a direct effect from a stove that required cleaning and/or gasket seals that were no longer tight. In your case I would suggest you check- - the burnpot holes to make sure they are all open - the burnpot cleanout/igniter area and the intake air throat that goes back. If you dont have fresh air installed there will be an intake flapper; make sure thats not sticking. If you do have fresh air intake make sure there are no obstructions. - Check your combustion blower voltage- should be near line voltage during startup. Check the combustion blower paddle and exhaust throat by removing the plate behind the ash pan. Let us know what you find, happy to assist.

Hey Larry, I believe you have been messaging with Matt J who will be following up with you. I believe you have a Harman Advance model. Removing the control board will be slightly different on that unit. Here are some basics: -Make sure the stove is unplugged from the wall first. Pull off the rear side panel of the stove where the control board is - 2 bolts to loosen on the front side near the lower ash pan area and that full panel will slide off. Pull the knobs off the board with a firm tug. Get a good light. Access the circuit board from the backside. There are little mushroom push-on clips in each of the 4 corners of the circuit board - gently release one corner at a time. From there disconnect the wiring - ESP connection, Room Sensor Wire Connectors, and Main Molex from the board and pull it completely out. Any further questions please let us know. Thanks.

Hey Rose, thanks for contacting us, happy to help. The two devices in your stove that will control all functions of operation - Combustion, Feed, Room Blower, will be the ESP Probe and Control Board. Given what you are describing here, it certainly sounds like we have a bad ESP, a bad control board or a combo of the two. We have seen many cases where one takes out the other creating problems such as what you are experiencing. The replacement ESP's are fairly low cost, the Control board a bit higher in cost. If it were me, I would start by replacing the ESP and seeing if that fixed the issues. If it does not, than the control board would be the next to replace. Here are links for references, Happy to help however we can. Keep us posted. Thanks. ESP Probe Options: pellethead.com/?s=Harman+ESP P61A Circuit Board: pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-4-output-circuit-board-control-panel-oem/ (Currently Out Of Stock - Shipment shows arrival in 9 days. We also have refurbished options.)

@@EarthSense Extremely helpfu videos. Thank you for posting We had the exact same problem as Ms. Fera. We first tried cleaning the ESP which didn't work. We then replaced the ESP and it is now working great. The only issue is that it takes approximately 15 minutes for the pellets to start burning. My S/O will do a very thorough cleaning when the weather improves, but we are wondering why it takes so long for the pellets to catch. Thank you.

@@emmielou72 Thanks for contacting us Claire. Glad the videos have been helpful and a new ESP got your stove up and running. Yes, 15 minutes is a long time for ignition; should be between 6-10 minutes. This is usually going to be an issue with the igniter or an issue with air flow. Let's make sure you have the burnpot and burnpot holes clean and all of the ash cleaned out of the burnpot igniter area with the cover plate securely on when done. Also, sometimes heavy ash can accumulate on the igniter and cradle cage; important to make sure it's clean. From there if you are still having long ignition issues we can check the igniter ohms - A Harman finned igniter should be reading between 45.0-53.0 ohms to be in proper range. Here is a video on how to test for ohms. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJqnoKaUnpzWhn0.html Keep us posted!

@@EarthSense Thank you! You are a great help. We will clean the area of the ignitor and see what happens. If we need new we will check out your store for sure!

@@emmielou72 That sounds good Claire. Happy to assist when you need us. Thanks!

Hey Dale, thanks for the message. The PP2 is a very early Harman Model - wouldn't have any videos on that one. I can check in with our parts support team and see if we have a schematic of any kind for the PP2. I'll follow back up. Thanks.

Thank you. I just can’t find how the control board is hooked in there see no screws

@@dalehill5244 Hey Dale, just heard from our tech and reviewed a PP2 manual. Hard to provide specifics given the age of the PP2 (Last Manufactured in 1999) but from what we can see, it appears there are two screws on the lower rear panel that can be removed to access the componentry. Hope that is helpful, thanks.

Thanks guys I love this stove

@@dalehill5244 Our pleasure Dale! Yeah, Harman is still leader of the market - the PP2 was a rock solid model. We still do carry a handful of parts for the PP2 - if you need anything down the road just let us know and we can check on it for you. Thanks again and warm regards,

Hey Diane, sorry to hear of the troubles. I do not believe this happened because you had the controls not set to off when you plugged the stove back in. For a panel to blow like that, it tells me there is a short circuit somewhere in the unit. More than likely this is what blew your fuse in the first place. I would suggest closely inspecting all of the wires in the stove with a good light to see if there are any bare/exposed/or melted wires grounding out to the metal on the stove or to one of the motors. I would also suggest thoroughly inspecting the igniter/ igniter cradle, and igniter wires to see if anything is warped or exposed wires are touching directly to the metal. During start-up, it's the combustion blower and igniter that come on - most likely the short has something to do with one of these two parts. It's important we figure out what is causing this so the new control board does not blow/fry like this one did. Keep us posted with what you find, we are happy to help.

Thank you I will check everything closely tomorrow . Thank you for you response.

@@dianeelwood8542 Our pleasure Diane, keep us posted with what you see/find. Thanks!

I checked the wires in the stove and they all seem to be ok , right next to the fuse is a round red piece on the board that is what has a split in it and a burn mark on the larger block next to it . Can anyone direct me to what to do next . How can I send a picture of the piece that blew out the board . This is so aggravating. Weather is getting colder and I have 3 ton of pellets that can be used 🤦‍♀️

@@dianeelwood8542 Thanks for the message back Diane. Please send the picture to info@pellethead.com. Send along details on the make, model, and year of the unit. Mention that you have been speaking to Taylor on the KZfaq channel. We can then discuss with our technical team and let you know the best way to remedy the situation. We're happy to help and I'm confident we can get you back to 100% with your stove. Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us Ian, happy to help. I think we should double check the igniter element to ensure it's in optimal ohm range. 45-53 ohms is optimal range for the Harman Finned Igniter. Video below on how to test that with a basic multi-meter. In the operation of the board there are timing sequences for the fuel feed during start-up. This could very well be an igniter that is operating slightly out of optimal range causing the unit to go through a second feed cycle during start-up. Once your fire is lit what does it look like? Is it bright, crisp, torchy - or is it slightly wavy/lazy? We want to make sure our airflow appears correct. If we have a loss of combustion air somewhere that will certainly play into the ignition process. If you wanted to check the dipswitches on the board here are the correct settings for your P43 model for Board Revision A, B, C, D & UP. (On the circuit board you will see a sticker with the board revision.) If you have a BLACK ESP Probe Wire: 10000101. If you have a RED ESP Probe Wire: 10001101 Igniter Ohm Check Video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJqnoKaUnpzWhn0.html Let us know what you find!

@@EarthSense Hello, I did the dip switch check and it matches the Red ESP probe and it is a red wire probe. The ignitor is reading 49 ohms. Ian

@@kc3kop915 Thanks Ian, glad you were able to validate those two elements. How is your air flow when the fire is burning? Does it appear crisp/torchy? Or is it wavy/lazy in any way? The super heated air after rushing past the igniter element is what is lighting your fire. If your flame is crisp and torchy in operation then our air flow should be fine. When you watch the stove on start-up and it cycles the load of pellets into the burnpot, how full does it initially get? Does it go into a second round of feeding fuel before it lights?

​@@EarthSense Hello, Sorry I did not respond, I just saw this a year later. I did end up changing the ignitor and it fires off now with in the 5-to-8-minute window. I did test the other ignitor and the ohms were 48. I am not sure what the issue is with that ignitor. I still do get odd starts though. If you’re looking at the burn pot from the front the right side of the pellets do not start when the left side starts. The problem is that sometimes it won’t get going and pellets may overflow into the pan, or I guess it starts a second cycle and feeds to many pellets and snuffs everything out. The initial start I would say the pellets fill up to the first row of holes in the burn pot. Next time I start it, I will make a video and post it. Ian

@@kc3kop915 Thanks for the message back. Yeah - Optimal range for the P43 finned igniter is 45.0 - 53.0 ohms. Yes, if it doesn't detect initial ignition, it will go through a second round of feeding. Let's double check the following: 1. All burnpot holes are open 2. Air Intake is free and clear - Flapper on the air intake is not sticking. 3. Check the igniter mount in the cradle to ensure it's seated properly. 4. Check the cradle mount to the burnpot and make sure it's seated flush and even. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Thanks for contacting us Nathan. I would suggest to check the simple things first. Let's take a look at the outlet. If you have a polarity tester, lets make sure it's wired correctly. Always important to have a surge protector in place as well. From there, check the connections on the control board. Make sure all connections are properly seated. Use a good light and inspect the wiring coming to the control board, the wiring for the electrical and the wiring to the motors. Make sure there are no bare/cracked wires grounding out somewhere. Let's start there. Let us know what you find. Thanks

Thanks for the message Warren. Just sent an email to our lead techs - I will follow up ASAP. Appreciated.

Hey Warren, Just heard back. You no longer use the microswitch on the feed system with the new replacement control board. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Awesome, Now my only issue is getting the auger motor to turn. I have replaced the motor as well as the circuit board. on the dip switch diagram--I am using the P61A set up. When I plug in the stove--I have power--the combustion fan turns on but no signs of the feed motor.

@@warrenball4966 Hey Warren, happy to help. Does your stove have auto ignition? Harman made a P61 (No Auto Ignition) and a P61A (Auto Ignition). Important that the dipswitches are set correctly for the model you have and ESP Probe Wire Color. Does your auger motor turn on TEST mode? Are there any status light blinks? Let's make sure sure the door, ash door, and hopper door are closed and sealing well. From there we can take a closer look at the vacuum switch if needed. Let's start with the basics, keep us posted. Thanks!

@@EarthSense it does have the auto ignition. I'll have to check the doors first. I have the stove at an angle to work on right now.

Thanks for contacting us. If your P68 Will not turn off and you have replaced the ESP, then yeah in 99.9% of those cases it would be an issue with the control board. Here is a link to the correct board for your P68. Any questions please let us know pellethead.com/product/harman-platinum-circuit-board-control-panel/

Hey Adam, Thanks for the message. What type of issues are you experiencing with your P68? The circuit board and ESP Probe are the two main sensors controlling the functionality of the unit, yes. There is also a vacuum switch in your unit that will shut down the auger feed if it feels there isn't proper negative pressure in the firebox, senses restriction in the exhaust manifold or vent pipe, or if the vacuum switch was faulty. If you are experiencing other issues with the proper control and operation of the stove, then yes, it would typically be an ESP or Circuit Board issue or a combination of the two. Feel free to provide us more information on what is going on with your unit, we are happy to help and are confident we can assist in getting your stove back up and running to 100%. Thanks.

Thanks for they reply. At the end of last season I had trouble with it shutting down (combustion blower keeps running). Otherwise the distribution blower kicks off and the feed auger stops normally. I replaced the ESP probe and thought I was still having issues but didn't test it out thoroughly. This season starting up I experienced the same issue and I replaced the ESP probe again with a brand name part. Still having the issue. Additionally, I am having trouble with the distribution blower starting and or keeping running when the stove is up to a good operating temp. The startup works fine, shut down works fine other than the combustion blower is not shutting off after several hours. If I unplug it - it goes off and stays off when I plug it back in moments later after having shut it down hours prior and letting it cool off properly. Hope that makes sense. The vacuum and other safety(lid) switches seem to be operating fine.

Hey Adam, Thanks for the detailed message. Based on what you are describing here I can't think of anything else that would be causing these issues except for the control/circuit board. The ESP Probe and Control Board are the only two items that control the Distribution blower as well as shutting down the exhaust fan once the stove goes below the set cool down temperature. Being you have now replaced that ESP probe twice, my only thought is that it has to be the control/circuit board creating the issue. Once you receive the new control board, make sure you set the dipswitches properly according to the instructional sheet based on your P68 model, wire color of your ESP probe, and RPM of the auger motor in your P68. The instructional sheet is pretty easy to follow. Any questions let us know, otherwise please let us know how everything is working once installed. Thanks.

Thank you I appreciate your time. I've watched all your Harman maint videos and have found them very helpful. Hopefully, I'm back up and running tomorrow.

100% Adam! Happy to help. Very glad you've found the videos helpful; makes it all worthwhile. Definitely keep us posted. Cheers.

Thanks for contacting us Jason. I believe a 2 blink is a vacuum switch error off the top of my head. Make sure your gasket seal around the door is tight. Double check the exhaust flue and make sure there are no obstructions. Take a look at the exhaust fan to see if it appears to be operating correctly. Let us know what you find, happy to help get everything operating back to 100% again. Thanks

@@EarthSense Thanks for the reply, it was a bad vacuum pressure switch, replaced under warranty.

@@JasonIBISAF Excellent to hear you found the root of the issue and everything is back up and running again. Thanks Jason!

Absolutely Joe. Dipswitch settings are going to differ based on the generation control board you have. Here is a video that will cover the basics on the dipswitch setting. For your model, we would need to know the revision board that is in place. When you pull the board out there will be a sticker that highlights the revision. If you can pull that information off we should be able to help confirm proper dipswitch settings for you. Also, make note of the ESP probe wire color as that will be important for 1 of the dipswitch settings. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b82gmqeY3Mjepqs.html Keep us posted, thanks!

@@EarthSense replaced the circuit board and now unit shuts off immediately once turned on... No blinking lights and all lights are out except the power light

@@joeklein785 Hey Joe, let's double check the basics. 1. Check wall outlet voltage. If you have a surge protector in place, double check voltage coming out of that. 2. Let's verify the circuit board. Newest board for the Accentra 2 should have a part number of 1-00-05886 3. Let's verify the dipswitches once more based on your model and ESP probe wire color. 4. Let's make sure the main molex connector is fully in place as well as the esp probe connector fully locked in and thermostat spades down all the way. From there let's work with the dials a bit. Set to test and see what happens. Set to room temp then stove temp on max heat setting. See if there are any changes. Let us know what you find.

@@EarthSense , I do not have a volt meter to check the outlet or surge protector, but they worked with the last board. Would the new board have push alternate current?... I had switched the possessed board (Would feed pellets while in off position, distribution and exhaust fan ran full blast and would not shut off for hours, even without pellets and blowing cold air. Turn the cold stove on and distribution and exhaust fans ran full blast. Ran in test mode and auger would shut off within two seconds, but fans would work) out with updated replacement and changed the dipswitchs too... Ran test mode and all motors worked as they should with new board..

@@joeklein785 Hey Joe, apologies I wasn't able to get on over the weekend. Definitely sounds like the old board was way out of whack. Any further updates over the weekend? Glad to hear it's running correctly on test mode. Something tells me we need to look closer at the ESP probe. We've seen several cases that when the board goes out the ESP goes out as well. Let's start first by giving the ESP probe a cleaning. Here's a video on that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odpnodF4sr-5XZ8.html Keep us posted, we'll make sure we get this figured out together. Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us Jon. Let's do an OHM test on the replacement igniter. Video below will show you how to do that. Let's absolutely make 100% sure the igniter is in operable range. Next, when you manually light the fire, does it look crisp and torchy or is it lazy? The air rushing around the igniter is lighting the pellet fuel. If you are noticing any laziness to the flame, we could have an air issue or air leak issue. If we test the igniter and it is in operable range, and the stove fire is crisp and torchy when in operation, then I would say yes we would want to take a closer look at the control board. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJqnoKaUnpzWhn0.html Keep us posted, happy to help!

You Guys are awesome! I went to your website and ordered a new board for my stove and installed it today. We live in Alaska and shipping was fast!! It took me less than 10 minutes and the stove is back to lighting itself. Thanks

@@Etruth907 Love to hear that Jon! Thanks so much for sharing. So glad we were able to be of help, and so glad to hear your stove is lighting and you are warm once again! Any questions or needs in the future please let us know. Thanks so, so much!

@@EarthSense It sounds like you wasted a lot of money on a new board instead of just manually lighting it.

@@RobertJohnson-th2yf Thanks for your comment. For many folks auto ignition is an essential feature of the stove. Many run on auto allowing the unit to shut on and off as heat is needed. Especially in spring and fall seasons, this feature helps folks conserve fuel and maintain the temperature desired. Although manually lighting is not a difficult process, we have noticed that most consumers prefer auto ignition/start. Thanks again for your feedback.

Lito, thanks for contacting us. There is a connection for the exhaust temp sensor in a P61 on the control board. It will be the same type of connection as in the other Harman models like the P61A. Small port that the ESP Thermistor Exhaust Probe clip will snap into. Important to make sure the number 5 dipswitch is set correctly based on the ESP probe wire color. All Harman's have that ESP Thermistor Probe Exhaust Sensor. Please let us know if you have any other questions or need assistance. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Thank You Sir! You are correct, it is the micro-switch that goes/comes from the feed motor arm. I'm guessing it is one of those dip switches that allows the new board to operate without the old micro-switch?? Must be a timer now?

@@littletoze 100% Lito! Yeah, new boards have new programming from the originals. The #5 dipswitch is now controlling aspects of the ESP, and I do believe there are timing sequences in place, yes. Any other questions please let us know. Warmest regards Lito, Cheers!

It's important that dip switches are set correctly based on your model and ESP Probe Wire Color. If they are set wrong various aspects will not function correctly with the stove. If you need assistance with the proper dipswitch settings for your model and control board just let us know. Thanks!

Great! Glad it was helpful. If you need anything else just let us know. Appreciated.