Thanks for watching guys! Here is the link if you want to grab some new merch! www.bunkerbranding.com/pages/finish-carpentry-tv I appreciate it!

you can minimize the tear out with a sacrificial junk board behind your workpiece.

Been doing carpentry and cabinet work for 45 plus years and I have been watching this young man for a few years here and there, and I just wanted to say that he is the real deal, he really cares about the finished product of anything that he does.

Friend of mine lost fingers when he slipped on a router table working confidently along. The piece torque on him and twisted in just at the wrong moment. He is an experienced machinist too. You get 10. Count em. Please use push blocks ( it also would be faster). I know you know this but please.

Feather boards for pressure against fence and against the table will help prevent loss of fingers. Save them digits.

I’ve got 3 shapers for making my cabinet doors 1 for profile, 1 for cope and one setup for a raised panel. I don’t do it professionally anymore, but it is still so nice going to the shop not having to mess with any setup.

You could easily do this with one router table. If you planed this all out or if you made setup blocks for each stage so this is easily repeatable in the future without a lot of setup. We create setup blocks everytime we do something we haven't done before and save them so that we repeat any setup super quick.

Good to see you are taking your game up the curve! Three items for your consideration: 1) put a straight piece of scrape backer screwed to your t-bar miter gauge and no more tear out! 2) do use infeed and out feed feather boards on the fence as it will keep your materials tight to the table. 3) if you start doing raised panel work - or any other larger work piece - figure out a larger table surface, maybe it's hinged on an existing table. Keep up the good work and keep pursuing your knowledge of The Orders and Classical design/architecture. You have all of the technical skill to do excellent work. As you pursue your classical education, your work will go to a level you likely never expected. I look forward to your success!

In a old fine woodworking magazine a cabinet guy had four routers in one table. Imagine a 3-ft square table with a router on each side the fences of the four routers look just like a box on top of the table all the ejected dust would be vacuumed from that centered box. It was quite a slick setup.

If you are planing to put a window in that back wall of your garage hence the cut out, make sure to build a temp wall on the inside of garage two to four feet away from window so you have room to work and support the roof while you install

Maybe someone else has said this, but you need double top mounted feather boards on the profiling table to keep consistent downward force on your workpiece. For consistency of your profiles, that downward force is essential.

Really like your videos. I have invested in multiple routers to build cabinet doors but I’ve taken a little different tack. I use router table inserts with the fence attached to the insert. I find it saves lots of space. Just pop in the router/fence combo, hook up power and dust collection, then router away. Thanks again!!

Nice shop. Good video on how you handle your production parts. On the mini split drain, drill and tap a hole in the plumbing cleanout cap for a 90 degree fitting and attach the drain line. Drainage mess solved. On the side with the climbing ivy, you might leave the style of door system with the same cut up (3w2h). Things seem to look better in three's. Might consider building a oak multi slide (XXO OR XXX) with a transom above. Maybe utilize awning windows above (top hinge open out). When building with wood, sometimes the sightline can get a little wide. But it would be functional and a fun project. In my own shops, I've always been carful about not having too many doors because of space utilization around an operable door. With a multi-slide door with a operables above this allows you to set furniture in front of it and still have ventilation above (plus you'll have the other slider close to it). Anyhow it sound like you have some fun projects ahead of you. Cheers

What an awesome idea. I’m an old cabinet maker and we had the grizzly 3 head shaper setup for raised panel doors. Get these tables on sale and you can have a sweet production setup. Just happened upon your channel and I’m about to hit the subscribe button. Something about you I like. Your so easy to listen too and explain well

Love watching your growth!!! I do a fair amount of chisel work, and sort of a chisel junkie, and to this day my Narex have been a super good choice as they hold an edge well and won't break the bank BUT they're also not cheapos... great choice. I evolved into double bevels for letter carving later on and the Pfiel are great, but my traditional Narex are a staple. Good choice. The notion of multiple router tables is spot on also in your situation. Changing bits SUCKS... Even my Woodpecker table doesn't make it easy... GREAT choice having multiple for your needs!!!

Nice stuff...I especially like the T-shirt! I have a different setup for production of window and sash parts, these were used to repair/make from scratch 34 double-hung sash for a barn, from an original sample: Two Craftsman 10 inch table saws of 1950s and 1960s vintage, bolted together side-by-side. Each has a home-made Biesemeyer fence, adjustable by thousandths of an inch. One set up with a fine tooth rip blade, the other with a molding head with Craftsman/Delta cutters. A 1950s vintage Craftsman shaper, and 37 or so cutters for it (all 1/2 inch bore tooling), among them two Craftsman/Delta molding head cutters. Two Router tables, a 1990s vintage Craftsman with a Craftsman router, the other a home-made table with a 1970s vintage Rockwell router. A Rockwell radial arm saw, 1980s vintage. A late 1950s vintage Delta 14 inch band saw. A 1950s Homecraft/Sears vintage scroll saw. This way I can rip, first mold, second mold, third mold, and that's the basic setup. Then once I have all the pieces molded, I can change the heads as needed for the meeting joints etc. MY COSTS: The two table saws, with wings, from a scrap metal heap: $40. The original Craftsman 3/4 and 1 HP motors, from a scrap pile and tested: $20 Vee belts and pulleys, found in scrap dumpsters etc. $0.00 The fences, pulled from a scrap metals bin (all extruded aluminum): $20. Clamps for the fences: $18 from Rockler. Misc bolts on hand...free. The radial arm: picked up after being tossed off a pickup truck. Virtually new. $0.00...timing is everything! The band saw...ditto. Tossing it broke the table trunnions, so about $40 for new ones, new tires ($30), new Cool Blox guides ($14), new upper wheel spring ($9), new guide bearing ($8). Scroll saw $5 yard sale, I had a spare motor for it. The shaper, bought at a field auction (literally in a field): $35. All shaper cutters (four are carbide) in the next field auction lot: $35. Three molding heads and many, many cutters I had on hand acquired over the years...I'd guess $30? The Craftsman router and table, given to me by a friend. $0.00 The Rockwell router, $35 IIRC. Router table from scraps of MDO, laminate etc...$10 for materials? So about...$275-$300? All acquired over the course of some 30 years.

I love the idea of multiple tables. I do similar thing with bench drill presses, leave setup for hinge drilling etc. You are so right about the lock mitre bits. I got mine about 20 years ago and only successfully used it once.

I have that router table and shortly after buying it the lament on the guards started to peel up preventing smooth travel across the table and messing up my material. If you start to see the slightest problem with those guide guards I would make your own out of solid wood to replace them. Outside of that it’s a good table. Love the shirt.

Narex chisels are great. Get a decent diamond stone/plate and flatten the bottom 1/2" to 1". Also, get some feather boards for those router tables. It will make feeding much easier and allow you to keep your hands further from the bit.

When I was doing RV conversion work, I had a 3 headed shaper for raised panels. made life easy

Excellent video! I’m glad to see that you are expanding your skillset the right way; research the techniques, tools, test pieces, etc. I can see your business expanding in the future. As for the work on your house…you got that! Thanks for taking us along on the ride.

Grew up as a framer, switched trades but I got back into it with woodworking and I’ll say my experience with Narex chisels hasn’t let me down. A good choice all around.

Love your channel and think your are an excellent finish carpenter. That being said ,safety working in your shop needs to improve before you seriously hurt yourself. I got chills watching you run your hands right past the router bits on your router table. You may feel comfortable doing it that way and you may think you have a firm grip on the work piece-but trust me - that router is much stronger then you are and has no conscience.

You mentioned that the "hardest part of installing your ductless split AC system was keeping the coolant lines from kinking". That's a good reason to purchase the Mrcool mini-splits: each of the lines come pre-setup with bending springs already there, so that nearly eliminates any possibility for kinking.

Safety, Safety, Safety! I know you're a pro, but use featherboards and pushsticks, and reorient your router tables so that you're not reaching over the bits and off balance.

To prevent tear out you can use a piece of scrap wood behind your piece as a backer board and run them through together

I have my mini-split draining condensate into a kiddy wading pool which has drain holes 2 inches high with flowers and veggies growing in fabric containers.

Richard, you’ve always been really good, but your carpentry work is going to the next level. Great to watch you, man! Take care.

Roy Underhill of the Woodwrights Shop does a great video on Door Construction with muntins demonstrating how to make these. I think it's listed under season 28 making a corner cabinet, well worth looking at.

Dude, don’t coil the remaining hoses for the mini split vertical, you need to lay them flat/horizontal. They have an oil in them that starts to starve the system if you have them vertical.

Awesome set up and info, changing the profiles is terrible, time consuming too. Cool to get tips from you, while watching you do the work. Thank you, and will be grabbing a shirt(s). Will keep watching!

I too gave up on my lock-miter bit in the router table. Terribly hard to adjust. However, I should have bought the jig for that purpose from Rockler: Router Bit Set-Up Jigs for 22627 45° Lock Miter Bits. They have other models.

Very nice work. Thanks for the video. Job well done.

Hearing protection but no eye protection? Every had wood chips fly into your eye? It hurts!

Router tables are great if you are making one door but a shaper with a set of Freeborn cutters would be a better investment.

I’ve always wanted to try my hand at making a nice door and your video is very inspiring. Excellent attention to detail. I just subscribed and love your channel. Keep up the great work

I have a standard single car garage I made into a workshop. I put an 18,000 BTU mini split in that. I can keep the main door open and it still cools. I'm in So. Fl. so we get pretty hot down here too. I usually don't keep the main door open when the A/C is on but just pointing out how well these work. Being I can't put a car in there if I have to work on a car we also have a double car garage. I wonder if I put it in the wrong garage. :)

Back in the late 70's, I worked at a cabinet shop and went out and bought 10 craftsman routers and made a removable top table with a router attached with different table functions and just moved them in and out as needed with workstations set up. I made them with a work stock in and __!^^^!__ a work stock out as I machined the parts (for drawers). It was crazy efficient for a low cost of the routers.

Hey Richard, the hats look great but they're already SOLD OUT. I picked up the new shirt and a few stickers. These will go good with my other Finish Carpentry "swag." I think my favorite was the Dewaukita. Edit: got an email last night that they’re now available. I ordered one. 😎

Whenever I had to make prototype machined parts in the machine shop tool room, I always made extra pieces for each feature's tool set up.

Awesome set up. I have no doubt that you will be able to make them. The chisel set that you bought are excellent. Just like you said for the price and the quality can’t beat it. One of the best deals out there for woodworkers. Great videos very informative. Have a great weekend. 😎

very nice. ! you could daisy chain planners too:) have one planner feed the next planner, and set that up to hit the same board 3 or 4 times and take it down a quarter of an inch every time you send it through.

Cool, I have the same set of chisels . Got them at Amazon

Professional AC guy here. You should have cut your AC lines to fit and re-flared them. If not, you don’t want to leave the excess roll in a vertical position because it creates an oil trap. They recommend keeping them horizontal for proper oil return. That’s why you cut to fit so you don’t have this problem.

Love your channel and love Matt’s channel too. This is great to see the merch team up!

Eye and hearing protection ? Nice set up. Well planned and executed. Very nice instructive video ! I didn’t mention feather boards, hold downs, push devices because others ahead of me did. When you get old like me you’ll be thankful you used personal protective devices. Your work is good . Nice shop space utilization.

You remind me of me. I am a cabinetmaker in Lakewood (Cleveland) Ohio. I am now 63 years old. I had four daughters. I absolutely love what you are doing. Enjoy your children while they are little. You will be my age in a blink of an eye. Now I have to go, taking the grandkids to a haunted house tonight. 😊

Kudos. I used to love doing that stuff myself when I was your age. You'll love the satisfaction when you're done. Nice equipment by the way. 😎👍

using anti-kickback boards on the top of your work and on the side of your work save those fingers and also from flying boards

I have the same set of Narex chisels and I love them and they are well worth it and are easy to keep sharp.

Hello again Bro. I suggest a sacrificial board behind your good board when routeing if you dont want to get blow-out. I make one that acts almost like a push stick, and I use it again and again with the same profile.

You can use a combo square or some other depth guage that has a locking screw, to set your depth on your bits just set the guage up on your current bit and lock it then change your bit and set the height back to your guage, and its back the same quick and sleezey.

Eye protection .. as well as some kind of push stick .. your fingers are everything brother don't skip the tips on a router bit a piece of wood that thin can shatter in the middle or on the off cut tear out !!

I feel you on the lock miters. So hard to dial in!

Freaking love my Narex chisels. Good choice. Love the shop setting. That door is gonna be awesome.

If you want to avoid tearing out use a sacrificial board behind your work piece as you run it through the router table.

Nice video, Great setup with the routers, definitely a time saver, BTW I use Narex chisels since 1989 and no problems whatsoever. They make quality tools since 1919

Thanks Richard for sharing your insight and knowledge!

I'll probably never do any finish carpentry, but I sure enjoy your videos! Keep up the great work!! Blessings!!!

no need to deal with blow out on the router. I cut into the board backwards a little will do you. or just a extra sacrificial board on the back side.

Awesome stuff like always coming from your channel keep it. Up

@Finish Carpentry TV Rich, PLEASE don’t forget to do yearly maintenance on your mini split, either yourself, or from an HVAC Co. as will extend the life of the unit, worth it, and I suggest pick a date that won’t forget, like around a holiday or birthday (same for changing filters in your urbane etc….). Congrats and take care ✌🏻

Richard, very sweet setup. And the SCM minimax lab 300p is genuinely nice. Now I know everyone is giving you their two cents on using the router tables, so I'll add mine. You are making very heavy cuts on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd routers, which should be done with two shallower cuts. Your bits won't last long and it's putting a load on the routers as well. My biggest question is why you aren't taking advantage of the shaper/moulder on the minimax and cut the full profile on one side and then the other. It would be "exactly" what the shaper was made for, and it would do it faster and in less steps, and a full depth pass is fine on the shaper. Maybe I'm missing something, If so fill me in, please. All the Best, Chuck

Richard I’ve been loving your videos forever. Really digging the new skills. Thanks man! Oh, and the new merch too for sure.

I bought one of these and it lasted a year. Almost all of the tool is particle board so if you live in a humid area as I do good luck. It also was difficult to keep the working surfaces aligned and level, screws striped out. I tossed it.

Tear out annoys the crap out of me! At times I use tape but that in itself has issues. Good idea of over sizing, expecting to lose some edge because of tear out. Seems simple but I haven't thought about it. Appreciate the tips!

Use a sacrificial piece of wood as a backer when running a finish piece through the router it prevents the blowout at the end

Love that setup!

A little tip when making doors. Use glue up blanks for door rails and stiles. A 1x10 ripped in half and glued together with opposing grain will result in a 4.5” x 1.5” blank. Good for 1.5” interior doors stiles Or two 5/4 x6 glued together for exterior doors. It will be much more stable and less likely to warp than a solid piece of wood. You are putting so much time into these custom doors it would be a shame if they warped after installed.

So a journeyman millwright in millwork. Looks great!

I don't have any personal experience with this, but I saw comments by other HVAC people about looping the coils vertically like that causes the oil to get stuck in the loops and can starve the compressor causing it to fail. They said to bend them into horizontal loops that drain out.

And then I saw you not using neither feather boards or push sticks on the rabbeting table. Protect your hands, my dude!

Excellent video. Great information. Thanks for sharing. Take care and God Bless.

Beautiful merch. Congratulations on all your success.

Love the router table set up. Production baby!

Only way I’ve found to have repeatable depths with having to chang bits is to make spacer blocks for the height of each of the bits

You're amazing! Your talent and carpentry skills are really exceptional. I enjoy all of your videos and take inspiration from them, keep up the great work ani I look forward to your next project(s)!

This is whole next level stuff. I imagine your backlog of work is insane.

A router table is the best tool to DIY since it cuts in a circular motion tangential to the workpiece it doesn't matter how poorly your fence is set up as long as it's perpendicular to the table it will always be tangential. Because its always tangential you can set up the fence to pivot instead of moving in and out giving you extreme precision if your fence is 4.5 feet long and more ergonomic by having the fence run diagonally to match my 4 foot by 2 foot router table with the dust extraction going out under the table between the table top and router, not thru the router, increasing router cooling too.

4 inch perimeter grids help the craftsman look of the windows.. carpenter pencils, or tape measures would be cool with your logo.

For what it's worth coming from an hvac guy those extra loops on your refrigerant lines can cause an oil trap and eventually burn up your compressor. Great video on the door.

Great router work! What are you using for dust collection? I'm currently trying to decide what size shop vac is best for a router table and possibly my table saw. Thanks!

Look into “match fit dato stop” from Microjig to solve your lap concerns.

You have great skills and unbelievable vision. Thanks for sharing.

To prevent tear- out I start at the end that tears out and go in reverse for just a little. Usually pull the wood in reverse for half the bit profile. Go slow and then push back and start your piece as normal, when you get to the end, then now there is nothing to tear-out. Very easy and a never fail method.

Great set up. Set it & forget it. The Bosch router tables are so reasonable, that they pay for themselves after a few jobs. I know what you mean about cutting lock rabbets w/ a router table. I prefer to just use the table saw & off cuts as spacers to limit fence adjustments. Much less stress & better results using the table saw.

Adding removable fence shims will allow you to make multiple lighter passes with the removed shims being your final dimension.

Love your content! Awesome to see you getting into fine woodworking.

do you have plans to use the shaper built into your sliding table saw?

I am also considering building my own front door, but I need to build up my skill first. that is surely for people who have at least raised their carpentry game somewhat. This all looks great!

Great informative video. Keep it up. Thanks

you did a great job on the mini spilt but just cut the drain line. they make the lines long IF you need it. So cut it long enough to drain the water away from the house.

Thats a nice looking router table hope Lowes still has them wanna get one looks good quality

Fun to watch. Thanks

That's sick! Taking it to the next level!

that is one of the best set ups for doors if you are not a big industrial shop. you are right about setting bits.i used to rout oak for trim packages for restaurants and i had talked the owner into 3 routers and they thought it was a wast of money Intel they seen me save about 2 hours in set up time. great set up. have you used any other tables ?i am looking to get a router table and they look like a great table.

shapers are the correct way to be dooring this type of millwork . you can use router bits but its kind of like riding a bike to work instead of a car.

Great job Richard!

Try the rigid contractor table saw. This was meant for your Milwaukee/ DeWalt battery table saw video.

If you put a scrap piece behind your end grain router cuts you support the fibers and don't get tear out.