As a subscriber I say that this is one of the most honest videos I've seen on this topic in a long while. If ever. Whenever I use the university of You tube to learn how to do things they always show you "remove this bolt" and the damn bolt just magically comes right off. Then you run into this stuff and you don't know what to do. At least Brandon takes the time to be honest and show you ways to navigate through the difficult things. Whether it works on not at least he shows you what you can try to do. Very much appreciate it. Keep up the great work dude.

I like the clock around the wrist gag. Nice touch!

Thx for video Brandon! Separation method is genius but also risky so I pick both ha. I noticed areokroil in comments I swear but that stuff but not sure it would’ve helped hear. A little TLC would’ve saved your burial ceremony but glad to see the watch! Keep ‘em coming man.

Loved your ingenuity.

I haven’t tried it yet but I have watched videos about the same situation. Submerge the lower unit in a tank or use plastic bags filled with coke overnight. If it doesn’t work all you have lost is your time and the price of soda. And by the way I do agree with others not to heat the bolt but heat the aluminum which expands at a much faster rate. Not red hot because it will blow away like trying to weld it with too much heat.

I do work on these older outboard and I know you should heat the metal around the bold, nit the bolt itself. The heat makes the metal swell, so swell the metal around your bolt, not the bolt. Might still have twisted off, but I sure hated seeing you torch the bolts.

Oh man brandon that was priceless humor,time off death initiated and documented by a timex clock rubberbanded to said hand,sir you are a master of your creativity!!!!aplaudd,aplaudd.🤪🤪just blast into it with old college try,gonna break apart anyhow at some point.powerhead may still be good?snookie pa.

Love the wrist watch lol!

Nice. I've done this myself. Only rigged to a car hoist and chain in the floor for chain straightening. Blew the water pump to bits. Engine back in running order.

Best available choice.

You are not heating your bolts hot enough! They should be red hot with melted and burned paint around. Then you stand the chance of getting these bolts out. Also try welding a larger nut to the broken bolts. This usually allows to free that corrosion up

That RTV - at first I thought it was a red stripe painted on there!

BEST WRISTWATCH EVER. Cracked me up!!!

Sad.. Given the classic nature of this motor, at this point, piece it out and hopefully that will cover costs.

Hahahaha, nice watch. I wouldn't take that one swimming.

Heating the bolt instead of the case probably caused the bolt to break

Get and ark welder and add some metal to to the snapped bolts. The heating from the weilding will loosen the bolts. Make sure you add some penetrating oil

Love the new watch

That motor is a job that you don’t want to start!

These old engines are worth it

Well, that's a sad end............

In the future don't heat the bolts themselves heat the area around the bolts. If you heat the bolt itself up it causes it to expand inside the threads making the problem worse. Also try MAP Gas. Gets a lot hotter than propane.

Time to turn into parts salvage mode. Buzz and chop. Unfortunately the boneyard is often the location for crusty corroded up outboards go to die when they are too badly corroded to service.

It would be nice to salvage the powerhead with nice compression numbers like this one has.

i got a 1987 50hp that has stripped driveshaft and stripped crankshaft where the driveshaft goes-its got 145lbs compression both cyls w no spark-it looks to have been in alot of saltwater and i dont think will come apart soooo i got for free-think im gonna put some jb weld or red lochtite on the shaft and a new h2o impellar and jam it back together and run it till no water pump-or i wondered if ican thread the shaft and tap the crank while in the motor and run that-orrrr weld a cpl beads on the shaft and take a die grinder and make a cpl grooves in the crank-wonder which method would outlast the h2o pump

Had some of this outboards when i was young. Real crappy things, breaking rods all the times😢

If it didnt match up elsewhere, I'd think this was my old motor. Didnt know the bolt in the back was broken and ended up with those screw driver marks you mentioned 😂

Heating the bolt head only expands the bolt and makes it harder to remove . You must heat the aluminum to loosen the bolt easily. Every Marine Tech Knows this.

cut the driveshaft, pull the powerhead (shoulders will be seized so heating, tapping and more cutting), then cut the driveshaft down further, flip powerhead over on the bench. now you can cut 2 notches on the bottom to get a split bearing puller in there. puts extreme load on the crank but if the puller is even should do the job without damage. pain in the neck! hate it when owners dont do water pumps for years.

Put me on "Team Genius"

have you thought about tapping the holes with broken studs in them, put grease fittings in and pump them full of grease, might push the lower unit off.

I think you’re an absolute genius!

The boat? I had one [inboard] They are called a HYDROPLAIN and failed to finish it before I went into the service, so I gave it to my buddy's kid brother he put a Briggs and Stratton in it and fished out of for a couple of years. And I love my NEVERSEAZE on the threads

Under their carburetor there is a 10 mm bolt that holds the shift

It's broken. What else are you supposed to do. It is what it is

Penetrating oil...get some AeroKroil and wait. Hang motor upside down from hoist by the lower, and spray the Koil in each of those holes with broken bolts and on the driveshaft through your little gap, and wait a few days. Don't screw up the lower or mid any more - please don't cut the mid. The short parts are very desireable and a lot harder to find. in the future, spray all crusty fasteners with the Kroil. I rarely need to use heat, maybe on salty stuff.

Good idea in ky opinion

Before anything else gets destroyed.... that looks like the model of motor I've been looking for (for a project for my boys [12 & 13] - Depending on price and location, I might be interested.

You gave it a try, you gave it all you could, try to save the power head and that’s all there is to it.

Sadly you can't save them all... Spit my coffee out laughing so hard when you were using the torch to kill the creepy crawler and you said, "It's great around fuel systems".

I was thinking hitting it with an air hammer. Send good vibrations up that shaft. But it’s a desperation.

The power of corrosion.

Sorry Brandon need to ask you a question about changing evinrude stick to cable throttle, it’s a 15hp like the twin set you fitted to your boat you showed everything but how you connected the throttle, I’ve searched your videos before I asked if I missed it please drop me a link to it and thank you your work has helped so much over time

Unfortunately you save the most expensive and hard to replace parts , I’d say sacrifice the leg and D shaft and hopefully the engine will come off without a bolt breaking . The lower unit gears and shaft might be good still and there are tons of 60hp legs to be had with good lower unit housings not to mention drive shafts ! It’s nice of you to give them a break on a different motor !

You have some separation of lower unit, why not try to get a steel thin saw blade like maybe a sawsall with a long blade . And cut thru the motor shaft and the foot would fall off. I really think that would work..

Put oil on the bolts and tap the top of the crankshaft.

I had to use an axe to get my lower unit away from the motor😂

I have a 1971 ish 50hp johnson - I've tried for all the life of me to get the flywheel off as I suspect the flywheel key (and potentially more?) and ended up with a broken bolt. I don't really want to give up on it as I believe it will be a good motor (125psi both cylinders) Any advice for getting a stuck on flywheel off?

Surely try turning engine via flywheel first check ???

Looking for a 40hp Evenrude tiller arm W/electric start

Hi Brandon. I'm a subscriber to the channel and hope you could help me with something. I'm installing a tach on my 1992 Johnson 115. On the back of the tach is the "Pulse" dial. Do you know how many pulse the V4 Johnsons are? Thank you for your time. Jeff from Wisconsin

I have two of these motors and I lost spark on the top cylinder mid way through the day yesterday. Swapped coils with known good and still no spark. Good spark on bottom. Really hoping it's not the power pack, but in your experience how do these 75 era power packs hold up? Has run great the past few years I've had them. Havent dove into full diagnosis yet, think I'll swap the leads on the power pack to ensure it's a bad output to the coil

Heat is your friend

Spray some blaster?

Whoever the owner of this motor was, they thought maintaining the motor meant, you put gas in it. That thing is a mess, I hope they didn't spend too much for it, of course finding out what a mess it is means $20.00 was too much.

Get a barrel and soak it in Lime Away or Citric Acid.

will those carbs fit on my 40 hp

Shift linkage

Drill out the bolts?

In my 45 yrs of outboard repair, I have never see such butchery. This guy caused all his own problems and has now created a bigger problem then before he touched it .He needs an education in outboard repair ,NOT teaching

Penetrating fluid and heat and don't heat the bolt, heat what the bolt is in and get a REAL torch My wife's lips are hotter than that LP torch Sometimes a small drill where the bolt is stuck with penetrant in the hole will free it up without breaking it then put some sealant in it on reassembly.