On my evolution that I had, I had to take off the blade guard. The mechanism for lifting the guard consisted of a small screw and a washer as a rolling guide. And that constantly fell of its radius edge that it was supposed to roll along. And that made it get stuck. So there's some shortcuts made in the design of the evo. But i bought it from UK to sweden for like 350$ equiv, and thats cheap compared to the prices in sweden. And I was really happy with the way it performed. It makes small jobs snappy compared to saw in horizontal bandsaws. And it doesn't need coolant that you have to wipe of after each cut. Coolant plus dust equals messy paste of chips that gets everywhere.

As someone who has been doing metalworking for over 50 years, I’ve come across a lot of good, and bad, things about equipment. But in evaluating the thicknesses of parts, you have to keep in mind the difference in material. For aluminum, which the Evolution saw is made of, you need approximately three times the thickness to get the same strength, or rigidity. I’m certainly not saying that the DeWalt is better. That saw there seems knocked about, which isn’t that unusual for equipment in a professional environment. Secondly, when measuring runout, you REALLY need to measure it near the outer circumference of the blade, not near the middle. All blades, no matter how good, are dished slightly, and the big difference is at the edge, where sometimes, the brazing on of the teeth slightly warps the blade body. In addition, all blades have a slight wobble, a couple of thousands on a 14” blade is pretty good. Also, the arbor has some wobble, which should not be more than about 2 thou. But when combined, the total could be 4 though, on a good product. I’ve got a way of fixing g most of that. I mark the blade at 90 degrees around. I mark the arbor at one point, and align one mark. I then tighten it correctly, and manually spin it around, being careful not to push the blade to the side. I move the blade through all of the marks, and measure. One of them will show less wobble, and one will show more. I mark which mark, or even between two, that shows the least wobble, and always mount the blade with that mark aligned with the mark on the arbor. That takes most of the wobble (or runout) out of the cut. I hope that was useful.

I've had my EvoLution Rage 2 for several years and its been a solid tool and a worthwhile investment. Its heavy and ackward to move around but its built much like an industrial tool than the DeWalt, which actually has a higher retail price. The Evo is 62 lbs while the DeWalt is 47 lbs..

Been using an EVO for a few months now. Uneven cuts seem to be normal. I believe its their blades. Dispite that, I love the saw.

Used chop saw with abrasive blades for years works great! These new saws good for quick small metal cutting. Clean precise for welding. Swivel bandsaw better option for wider range of cutting heavier steel tubing.

Thank you Gary for the plug. I truly appreciate it.

The problem I had with my Dewalt was that cheap vice would not stay in the right place when cutting. It would move a little bit when cutting 45's.

You can adjust your saw to cut square. Adjust both vertical and horizontal.

I see where you've dropped steel on the DeWalt table due to distortion in the steel. If you want to do this fairly then you get two new machines and then judge, clearly yours has some heavy use.

Just ordered the Evolution from Amazon, I have the little one but like the Bigger one.

I've been using Evolution blades for years. They last a lot longer when you oil them before you cut! The evolution saw is the best saw ever made👍

Right up til the end where you noticed the buggered up threads, I was liking the evo but not after seeing those buggered threads. That indicates soft steel, not a high carbon hardened threaded rod like it should be. I bought a beat to hell ridgid saw that looks for all the work like an exact copy the the evo, or maybe it was made by evo for ridgid, who knows. Any way it has thread that look exactly like the evo but there is no quick release system. You just wind it in and out like the dewalt. I bought that saw for less then the cost of a new evo blade and the right angle gearbox on the ridgid saw is shot and screams. But even with an old blade with a tooth missing, she cuts steel like butter. I do heap lots of cutting oil on the old blade while cutting with it. When that old say blows up I will probably buy and evo but maybe not after seeing those buggered up threads right at the end. You should have contacted evo about that and then included their response in the video. No serious DIY home shop dude like me, and ex machinist who has a full machine shop in my garage is going to want that evo after seeing those damaged threads. As i said before that should have been a high carbon hardened threaded rod, not soft easily damaged threaded clamp rod like that. bummer....

You are comparing a rotten apple to a fresh apple. The dewalt has seen abuse, not to mention a very well used blade. You can not compare a brand new saw to a old used saw

Pitch on the blade and design of the carbide teeth is what changes the surface finish 👍 Awesome video!

This is what happens when a Machinist reviews a Welders tool. Does is cut metal Well? Yes... Should you buy one? Yes... Was it worth the money? Yes...

Have had them both. For my money, I prefer the evolution. However they are both good saws especially if used after using a cutoff saw

Come back in 3yrs and see the difference between these results. My moneys on the DeWalt

I think you will find the chatter marks are from the larger dia. blade. I have use a Evolutioin in the Knife Shop for years now. I bought a spare blade for it feeling it would fail quickly. I have never had to change the blade. I cut very tough and abrasive steels. ATS-34 and 154-CPM steels on it. Very impressive! KnifeMaker

The acme thread on the dewalt won't hold as tight as the fine threaded vise of the evolution. Acme just moves faster

When you cut the bar you flipped it, changing the reference edge. When you measured it you maintained one reference edge. Unless you had milled both edges before the test, I would expect the result you got.

I'm lucky that nothing I do has to be that precise! I would have no trouble using either saw!!

No matter how much better the saw is in general it doesn't matter if the screw gets screwed up after one use. Crazy

I take my Dewalt on the road, it's heavy enough..... Ive dropped mine a few times.... Its durable. Im sure that EVO is pretty heavey too. Have had my Dewalt over two years +/- and it still cuts precisely...... Maybe three blades since Ive owned it........ Alot of wrought iron including stainless

For the price of the Evo you can get a Trajan Q1400 which is a real Industrial saw, it is what the new Evo was modeled after.

Thank you for doing a real review and not just an advertisement.

You cut the bar on the Y axis and measured across the Z axis - the measurement with the indicator should of followed the cut (Y axis) as clamping in the mills vice, the extra parallel edge could certainly skew results. Both cuts should of been made with the same blade to. Other than that, overall a useful quick comparison. Both cuts are well within 'good' for this type of saw.

Great job on this video, I have never owned a Chop saw but I am looking to purchase one which is why I am looking for as much information as I can find. This was very helpful. Take carae.

You should swap the blades to see if they have any impact on the quality and trueness of the cuts to rule that variable out of the equation during your testing.

I agree with "R" who made the comment. My raptor 355 doesn't cut strictly vertically. I've problem.

Good review. I was happy to see the comparisons as I am wanting to upgrade from my abrasive chop saw.

I bought the Dewalt model before I saw this video. After it showed up I unboxed it and tried to mount a piece of square stock for a test cut. Just like in your video, the table is uneven so it's impossible to tell what surface is square to the blade. I boxed it back up without cutting and just returned it. Until this purchase, I unquestioningly thought DeWalt was high quality. Not anymore.

You make good reviews but i feel you should have used Brand new blades in both saws. Same brand blades and i feel like that would have proved more accurate of a comparison of both Saws. I cant tell if your dewalt was cutting slower because of an older, duller blade? or because the saw just cuts slower? So i Kind of feel like the Results are inconclusive.

Your video was very informative. Science behind the machine great vid

Have had both saws for some time. The Evo hands down is the better saw. Cuts faster and more accurately. The tread on the Evo saw clamp is standard vs the DW Acme tread but with the standard fine tread on the Evo you don't need to tighten with as much torque on the handle to get the same clamping force. After two years of using the Evo the clamping screw is still fine on our saw. When we changed blades on the Evo to a better quality blade the cut smoothness improved to that equal to the DeWalt. At our shop the Evo is the everyday saw and DeWalt was sold on Craigslist years ago.

Good man!! The exact video I've been waiting for! 😁

How can you expect a used blade to cut with the same accuracy of a new blade?

Get yourself a Diablo D1472CF blade, they outperform any dry cut blade 5x plus they also cut stainless steel and the best part is the price, $89.97 no other blade compares...Diablo leads the market in carbide technology..

I haven't used one of these saws ...yet....but I'm 73 and every decent 'C' clamp I've ever used or seen in stores has a buttress or acme thread...like gear pullers...the standard 60 degree threads aren't designed for this application...but they are cheap... Actually not just 'C' clamps...but pretty much any type of clamp...metal working or wood-working...buttress or acme...you can really lean on them... The cast-iron tables on these saws seem stiffer and better...but I've owned and used several saws with stamped steel frames....they work fine if you don't bend them...or clamp them down on something un-even....and....most chop saws leave a small 'gap' under the drop side of the piece you're cutting so it falls away and doesn't jam the blade and damage it... I've cut 1,000's of pieces of material daily on chop saws (Aluminum and Steel)...if you want to get a nice cut, the better saws will not have that gap under the 'drop'...but you have to clamp both sides of the blade...otherwise you can find yourself with a bad cut on your hand or leg from that drop flying off....cutting many 5"-6" pieces from 20 foot long material....

15 inch blade capacity but ships with 14 inch blade

Really fair unbiased review Gary. Seems like a winner to me just because of what you said about the deck.

A fair comparison would be New to New machines. Also, check the blades run-out before installing it.

The fine thread enables more clamping force acme thread is stronger but by hand you can apply more force with fine thread

ordered this saw, based on this and some other reviews. Evolution S380CPS: Metal Cutting Chop Saw THe saw arrived DEFECTIVE,, the "lock" used to change the blade does not work. As there is not blade installed, it was a complete show stopper... How could a simple thing like this get missed ?

Last month I bought a brand new Evo s 355CPS saw and it has the square Acme screw for the vice. It's a great investment at only £220 delivered. I like your review but to be fair to the DeWalt you should have used the same blade across both machines so the results would have been based off one blade doing both cuts.

A bit TL;DW for me, so maybe you cover this - but the DeWalt's clamp jaw pivot, on a shaft that's deliberately NOT perpendicular to the table (I'm guessing in order to tend to hold stuff down against the table). The clearly-unintended result of this is that every damned time you clamp something, it's literally bending the heavy sheet-metal base material up along the adjustment slot. I had one table replaced under warranty because this was throwing my cuts off of perpendicular. Throughout that painful process, DeWalt seemed utterly clueless about this problem, where I'd have expected them to have realized how bad the design was by then and have retrofitted with something better. OTOH...the Evolution has a lot of cast iron in the base, which seems solid (I had an early model and thought I'd watch to see if it's been improved) but I shoved mine back at the seller almost immediately when I found I was having to diddle around with shims under the fence... and then that the saw mounting itself wasn't square to the base. Cast iron is cheap as hell, and though it may seem solid because of its weight, it's brittle and no better than the machining precision used at the factory. Carrying it around isn't a picnic, either. And not using an Acme-threaded clamping screw is just intolerably amateur. If someone made a precise cast-aluminum retrofit base for the DeWalt, I'd be looking to buy it.

Evolution gave him the saw, I thought the review would only cover points that Evolution would win. But I watched the video anyway. My thoughts are that the clamp screw is stuffed already and at a guess, the motor will burn out before the Dewalt .

Great job, but all blades have a run out which doesn't relate to the power source.

The rough cut could be in the blade and not the saw right ?

Evolution cut of saw is outstanding and way way far better than all cut off saw I've came across with.very good machine trust me.

Interesting comparison. One of my points of interest was the height of the fences.

Great comparison. The evo does have a more solid deck. The thread damage and the fact that it comes with spare brushes is scary. I still love my Dewalt!

I have an Evo rage and it’s going 10 years strong.

Great comparison was very helpful! You do great comparisons must do other tools as well. Many thanks.

You should use your indicator on the vice jaw not the side of the vise and put a spacer in the vice and clamp it. Just saying

You should do both new machines .

We have an evolution at work and it is a great saw, but I have found the same issues with the screw clamp. I find the one on my personal milwaukee saw to be much better.

dood ... what a review, this is what I am talking about, legit metrics.

17:58 sec. What's that's strange sound when Evo. Almost stopped ?

Good information Gary. Thanks!

What is the lever behind the left side of the fence on the DeWalt?

Excellent presentation...Gary does a great job

Evo look stronger. Saw vid of one cutting rail tie. Amazing. Blade life seems to differ greatly between users.

Is the dewalt base not flat because you have it bolted down in all 4 corners to something that isn’t flat, effectively twisting it?

Dear Gary, from where I sit, the bearings on the Evo sound shot. That would give you the run-out on the cut. As for the Dewalt, if you look back at the video, the metal is not sitting flat on the bed. This means your cut is not 90˚ but something less. If you are fabricating, you want the pieces square so that when welded, you end up with accurate square joints in both directions. Neither saw passes the build quality test. How about trying a bosch? German manufacture rather than CCMIC {Cheap crap made in China}.

Good job ! Thank . You are the man.

I have seen other reviews of the evolution saw. And they clearly showed that when you clamp something to be cut on the saw, the base of the saw buckles upward. Lots of flex and twist. Maybe it was a different model evolution saw?

GOOD Review ,helped me ALOT on the price/better over all saw,thank u for the video gary

I too have the Evosaw 380 and while it's pretty good for the money, I'm a perfectionist and I was hoping for a little better quality going by all the hype on the Evosaw !!😏

Do a comparison with ridged !!

My old DeWalt chop saw has a huge amount of flex in it and you can’t get a reliable cut out of it.

My observation was that 2 hands weren't the intended method on the ' finger wheel's of the Evo saw !! You used 2 hands and quite a bit of effort to loosen the clamp , resulting in permanent damage to the mechanism !! The Dewalt is no different , 1 hand,/ 2 fingers. Good effort though on the description. Cheers

Excellent video Gary. Valuable information. Take care. Doug

Another great video Gary. Thank you. Interesting content. Be safe and God bless you!!!!

Exactly. Nearly anything that receives wear and tear would be subject to discrepancies, along with the cutting test. C'mon two handed vs one handed. Intended or not there's more weight on one than the other. The cut comparison was not accurate by any stretch, unless you were trying to prove the the base of the dewalt was not true for what ever ( W&T dropped steel) reason. If the planes are not parallel then the cuts are not going to be perpendicular.

Good video. It kept me from purchasing evolution saw.

Fantastic review, very informative. Thanks sir.

two hands on evo, one hand on dewalt would account for time difference, plus old blade. dewalt has courser more durable threads on vise screw. evo has better table. although, you could correct by fine tuning... watching this video, i'd probably go with dewalt. depends on price.

So far, how much thickness, in and out of print does that brand coating add to the saw blades? The DeWalt's at the point of contact and is not deep in and out of paint craters and hills. The Evolution is obviously. The needle was moving. The previous point about the quality of the cuts will have been informative, however. Old vs new blade, bad comparison. Blade break-in helpful, at least with paint removal? It's the base you mentioned earlier as the culprit for the significant consistent deviation in one direction.

What do you think about the aweful sound of the Evo slowing to a stop after the cut?

How much cost machine & cutting blade

Nice comparison. Looks like too much cranking on both clamps. No doubt the evo had a softer rod but i have used mine for years without a mark on it but i dont crank down nearly as tight as in the video.

Runout test is meaningless. You did not isolate blade warp from the equation.Should have measured the shaft. I worked in a lab environment for decades testing. Otherwise very informative. Thanks.

The Evo saw can accept a 15" blade but is sold and shipped with a 14" and the base is cast aluminum

My Dewalt gouged the slot where the blade goes into when it's pushed down. I don't know how. I put somebody to cut on my 2 day old saw and somehow it gouged the open slot. I used it since and I don't see how this happened but it did.

I've been on the fence about which one of these saws to get. They both have been sitting in my amazon wishlist for a while now.

Try switching the blades from saw to saw and repeat the test

I think there s was a short review in there- between all the KZfaq adverts.......

The threading on the clamping bolt is what concerns me. I do hope evolution saw your video and went about the process of changing the design. $380 bucks may not be a lot for what the Evolution can do, but what good is it if the threading is gone after a few uses ?

I will never use a part that I need accurate to the within a few thousandths straight from a chop saw. Just me. If i need that kind of accuracy, I will machine it.on the knee mill. So nice to know its close, but kind of irrelevant. Very detailed comparison, though, and admirable that both saws produce such a cut, especially when the alternative is an abrasive saw which is not even in the ballpark.

I have an Evolution and am fairly happy with it, but use my horizontal bandsaw far more frequently. John Saunders, nyccnc on youtube, makes a base for the Dewalts that seems like a huge upgrade....but of course that makes a fairly expensive saw super expensive. I almost always cut my material the way you did, but have seen a lot of others cut material the opposite way (flat horizontal) and that seems like a recipe for excessive heat in the blade and excessive wear on the blade. The same is true on horizontal bandsaws. Nobody would cut a piece of 3/4" x 4" material on a vertical badsaw with the 4" vertical, so why would anyone do so on a chop saw or horizontal bandsaw? I feel like I must be missing something, but maybe we are doing it right and most others are doing it wrong :-).

Hi. how many cuts will the blade last? I think about something like 50x50x2 mm square tubing.

i think these two saws are not meant to be for precision .. just rough cuts .. 4 or 8 thou off ...?? geez thats good enough for me ..

The cutting discs are interchangeable, between brands? I have the impression that the Dewalts are more durable.

The Dewalt is bolted down. Although the metal is thin, this may be the reason that the base plate is torqued.

Which blade last longer and are they exactly the same surface feet, and tooth count?

Thanks for all the info, beautiful video !

Show the different in the miter clamp. thanks

Very thorough review, kind of disappointing that Evolution would make such a nice machine, then cheap out on the threads, I hope they fix that. nice work on the review.

I would check the play in the pivot pin Neverlution has a lot of problems with this.

Unfortunately checking squareness on a cut without having a known square piece of material doesn't provide any empirical data of value. The take away on the soft thread form on the Evolution saw is self explanatory - pass, unless they have addressed the threaded shaft since August of 2017.