A good point if you use hot-wire tools for foam carving. I don't use them. My foam-carving tools of choice are a drywall saw and an oscillating multi-tool.

@@mpeterll See how those tools work with each adhesive. I imagine the liquid nails might fight you a bit where the 3M would be easy to carve through.

I’m in the business . You mentioned PL-3000. I’m aware of PL-300. Is there an actual 3000 or was that a typo? Thanks

Aleens is one of the best kept secrets in the hobby... or is was, so thanks for giving that away :) But I largely use it for 3D scenery elements. But to anyone who hasn't got a bottle, it's a must add to your arsenal.

It's a strip of sound-deadening material placed under the track on a model railroad.

it would still take a considerably long time to dry, and why bother spending time making a ton of small cuts when you could just use a different glue. sounds like more effort than it’s worth.

I did some experiments with gorilla glue and others many years ago when it was still fairly new. In every case, it was the weakest of all the glues I tried.

@@mpeterll Not Gorilla brand PVA wood glue brother. The Polyurethane, dark amber stuff. But yes, it does require some weight, but it's super fast, about 30 mins setup time, and can be carved with a hot knife (although I don't prefer that tool for other reasons), and can even be used to fill gaps and fix foam issues.

I performed the experiments without any "detach-and-wait" deliberately, because I need a product that I can use quickly. If I have to go through that process for every piece, then that particular glue is a non-starter for me.

@@mpeterll I agree, looks like it bonds well even tho it wasn't applied intentionally properly. I would stick to the others for feasibility.

I wasn't aware you were my teacher.

Only thing to watch out for with the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, and prolly all of them, is they don't age to well. I would be concerned about it over time, but I would love to see someone speak to those results after a few years.

Andy Crawford That is a good point! Thank you for mentioning.

There did not appear to be any melting of the foam. I was told in the store that the can I had was formulated especially for foam.

@@mpeterll I think 3M makes a product, super 88 (maybe) that is targeted at foam safe applications. Although, I haven't found Super 77 to be particularly damaging to foam.

There are many different tube adhesives that come in this format. Some will eat foam and some will not. If it doesn't specifically say it's for foam, then don't use it.

I only ever tried gorilla glue once, years ago. At the time I was working in a joinery shop and gorilla glue claimed to be the strongest wood glue ever. I did some experiments and found it to be totally useless for that application.

@@mpeterll I agree completely. For wood glue, when strength matters and for furniture applications, I don't think you can go wrong with Titebond. However, for our wood structures, where speed is more valuable than strength, I do favor Gorilla brand wood glue. That being said, for foam applications, I do not like evaporative adhesives, like wood glue or PVA of any kind. I have used a few things, mostly Liquid Nails for projects. The Liquid Nails is fine, if you don't disturb it much. However, as my layout is TOMA and I've taken modules down and worked on them, I've found the Liquid Nails has let go somewhat when stressed. So, I've moved to using the Gorilla Glue that they became famous for, the polyurethane or dark brown stuff. It's essentially an expanding foam material, although not a two part mixture. And despite the added step of needing to add weight, I find it's very robust, takes to moving and doesn't turn loose, fills gaps since it expands, and is easy to cut. It also sets up in about 30 minutes and the added foam can be cut or shaped without the glue releasing. As always YMMV and all that matters is that you find an adhesive or materials that you enjoy working with and that does the job. I strongly support the idea that there are many right ways to do something, especially model railroading. Just don't fall victim to the idea that there are no wrong ways or that there's only one right way, and you stay flexible enough to find what's "right for you". Thanks for sharing, and I do know a fella who builds Fremo modules that just swears by Gliddon Gripper, I've gotta try that too now.

@@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern I find if you wet down the pieces first, it cures much better. I just use the Lepage equivalent polyurethane glue and it works way better than PVA. I sand the foam with 60 grit first and then wipe down with a wet cloth. Clamps or weights are a must! I cut some PVA foam sections 3 years after they were glued only to find the centers still wet. Yes, 3 years later! I like PVA for wood and for road bed, but it's lousy for foam - if the air can't get to it, it never sets.

In my experience, it's just the opposite. The nozzle on spray adhesive is prone to getting blocked by dried glue, even after a single squirt - thus making the remainder of the can worthless. On the other hand, pains keeps very well if the lid is properly sealed. The only exception being when the volume of air space within the can greatly exceeds the volume of paint remaining - which of course means that you've already used most if it so it's no big deal if the little bit remaining goes hard.

@@mpeterll imagine the money we could make if we could make a 3rd party lids with a vacuum nib and design a Ryobi tool to suck out the air.

Bradley Biggers Welcome to the hobby! Start watching a crap load of videos on KZfaq. Take notes... It all depends on what you wants and needs are. Too many variations to be listed here. I use Peco and Atlas flex track and switches. Sites that have been helpful are Ron’s trains and things, Chadwick something something, and Model Railroader Magazine. They put out a whole series. Search “Dream Plan Build”. Good luck

It was discontinued a couple of years ago.

I found in at Home Depot.

That's what I was using before. It never dries within the foam. The reason for performing the experiment was to find better alternatives.

The problem is that PVA is evaporative, or it requires the backing (normally just water) to evaporate. When it's exposed to air, especially dry, warm air, it's not a problem, but sealed between layers of foam, there's issues. I've known guys who used a PVA (wood glue or otherwise) who took apart layouts or sections years later to find wet adhesive. If you don't need much strength this might be ok. Since my layout is TOMA, and I build the sections then install them to the layout, they must be handle-able, as well as needing to take the abuse of carving foam, I needed a stronger adhesive. I think the Gripper paint is pretty compelling, and I'll have to try that now, but Gorilla glue is hard to beat. Not the Gorilla brand PVA wood glue, but the dark amber, polyurethane adhesive they have become known for.

ATSF1317 It is. You’ve gotta use Liquid Nails For Projects. It’s foam safe. I used to use it, but I’ve moved to Gorilla Glue as the Liquid Nails tends to let go over time.

@@AndyCrawford_NorfolkWestern oh cool, thanks for letting me know 👍

I wouldn't want to use foam anywhere that is likely to get heated because it'll give off some nasty fumes.

@@mpeterll oh, you mean like south facing walls? You cannot use M77 to laminate materials that can be warmed by the sun. Everything will come apart especially since under load. You need to figure and a product designed for this and spray foam on n a can has been laminating xps foam for a couple decades now on construction industries.

@@jaysunkreuze1466 No, hotter than that. I've heard nasty things about hot wire cutters etc.