Is there a TSB reference number from ford??

FYI. . Once again your information has helped me vastly. The 2nd warranty job on my 2018 3.5 was the IWE. Of course when I saw you had a video about the topic, I watched and like the phasers, went to the dealership informed and without fights or hiccups, got the work done and covered!!! Also ... keep up your work in your hometown Brother.. I'm In Ohio and just shake my head at whats going on out there. I saw you on multiple youtube videos fighting the fight!!!!

Great tip! I get the grinding from the IWE rubbing from time to time. I changed the smal valve and it got better. Now I'm going to try to change the acuator and see if that does the trick, of not I'll just go with this setup. I drive 95% in town anyways so it wont make much difference for me. Thanks for posting this.

Loving this channel!!! Thank you for your Wealth of Knowledge !!! 🙏♥️

Thanks so much! Stay safe and keep up the good work! You’re a credit to your craft, not many like you around anymore. God Bless!

Thanks, my 2015 F150 just started doing this. Was getting ready to spend about $800 to take it to the shop. I'll try this.

Thanks for the video, procedure, and 411. Very valuable to the FORD community.

Buddy of mine was into buying scrap/surplus 2-1/2 ton 6wd military trucks from Fort Ord. Out of several he'd make one. He'd check out the sprag in one of the gearboxes by driving out of town to where there was a big fat irrigation standpipe. He'd put the bumper against the pipe and spin all the tires. Ops check good!

Thank you for this video. It solved my problem and works great. Keep up the videos and great content.

Hey Rich. Getting a inside look into The "Mechanic " At the Dealership is like having your DAD or Brother working there giving you the tips on how it works. It's like learning exactly how you do the thing's your doing Then getting the inside scoop. Then using it to your advantage. It really is a breath of fresh air. You are doing a great job showing us. Getting rid of this Taboo area into this almost secret space of car repair and maintenance. Shawn.

Beautiful. I was just about to replace the iwe on both sides and the front diff because the diff is noisy. The iwe were giving me a low speed grown but if I can just lock them in and replace the diff with out having to spend more money on the iwe system. Great info. Thanks 🙏

Looks like an old one. But thank you for sharing. Those are the things a mechanic can "R" you on. Ford Boss Me knows what it is. We thank him for sharing that. 4x4 fixes ARE EXPENSIVE!

I had this happen to me, and it drove me nuts trying to figure it out. It only happened when I feathered the gas slowly in 2WD when going forward at any speed. As long as I feathered the gas, it sounded like something was clacking or not engaging. Simple enough fix that I didn't know at the time. This would have saved me some coin for sure.

This worked 100%. My ford got quiet right away.. I'll probably use as a temporary solution. Thank you

There used to be a problem with enough engine vacuum at idle, which is used to engage the front axles to the wheel hubs. You are disconnecting the vacuum, so now the front hubs are engaged full time to the front axle. The 4x4 switch engages the front drive shaft to the main driveshaft. You’ll get a little less gas mileage since the front shaft is always being driven by the wheels when in 2H. Otherwise, the front shaft wouldn’t spin if the hubs were disengaged - less drag.

Thank you for this! I was having issues and my truck wouldn’t even engage 4x4. Works as it should now.

thank you for the info!! exactly what i needed.

This is an amazing video! I have 90k miles on my 15 and had to replace the whole bearing assembly on both side because of these vacuum actuated hubs. I live in the extreme cold and the vacuum isn't strong enough to fully disengage at times, so they eat each other. Very costly!

For the 2020 models there's an updated bulletin (20-2307, models 2006-2020) which recommends to do the same thing, but without the reprogramming. I have removed the same vacuum line and installed vacuum caps on both ends a few days ago, which permanently locks the IWE actuators and the grinding noise I was was hearing from time to time is gone now. So far I haven't experienced any problems with this permanent lock, even if I step on it. No noise, no vibrations, no nothing.

It was perfect bro much appreciated

they should have done this years ago, thank you for the tip!

I had the same problem about 4 months ago. When looking in PTS, he told me to put a plug in between a vacuum line where I cut it. I took a plastic clip that I got from our body shop. It made the hose look natural, but I thought it was a cheesy fix. The other mechanics kind of laughed at Ford's fix for this problem. But the customer was happy and did not come back for the same issue.

As a first time ford owner I really appreciate all the updates you give in our trucks! Really nice to have someone looking out for us! Would you say there’s a problem with running the iwes and axles locked at all times?

Only thing I’ve seen with systems that spin the 4wd system all the time even when not engaged is that I’ve seen a lot of pinion seal leaks on dodges that have that same system. It’s kinda hard to beat the 97-03 f150 center axle disconnect system haven’t seen a quarter of the issues as the iwe system but when the iwe system is fully functional it’s the smartest way to do it.

Great stuff

This is why I like my old clunky shift on the fly transfer case on my jeep with the old school shifter lever to change modes, not as efficient while the front diff and driveshaft spins all the time but has went 235k no problems but a few u joints going bad

Merci beaucoup pour le conseil😊

I'm not sure I like the idea of disabling the system that disengages them. This means the front drive train all the way back to the transfer case will be spinning all the time for no reason. One of the things I liked about the Fords having a disconnect at the hub is, in theory, it should be better all around to not have parts moving if you don't need to. Less wear and slightly better mpg.

This absolutely sucks, I noticed you drove it around in the parking lot. Get on the road and you will notice a lot more front end noise than you would if the original states in place. You would feel this way if you paid 60K for a truck plus premium warranty and they disconnected a system that’s been around for years just because they didn’t want to fix the actual problem.

Rich, would you recommend this fix for a f150 that has the fox 2.0 lift kit (complete strut). Mine was adjusted for 2.5 lift. With the lift, the angle for the cv shafts are more aggressive. I assume tracking down my IWE problem would be best in the long run to prevent all those additional parts from moving….

Does this cause excess wear and tear on the bearings and axle? Or, was the vacuum system something Ford did just to eek out some additional fuel mileage?

Manual four wheel drive shift on the floor never let me down. I own 3 fords 1979 f150 , 2005 F250, & 2012 F450 all with maunal four wheel drive shift and never had a problem.

Hey Rich! I have a 2019 XLT without 4A I have the clunking of the IWE. Should I have a reprogram of the TCCM or would my issue be something else?

I have a 2018 with standard 2h 4h 4l type. I replaced both wheel bearings and IWEs . Vacuum tested everything and it holds vacuum. I still get an intermittent chatter and don't.wamt to spend the money replacing all those parts again so I just capped the vacuum like the 4A style. Seems to work fine now.

3:44 I agree in the tiny fuel mileage drop,but why increased tire wear? There’s a differential in the front the tires are free to spin at different speeds .What I noticed on mine is increased driveline vibration at highway speeds from spinning the front driveline at all times. I knew right away when my iwes weren’t working because you felt it.I’d been unhappy with this repair due to the highway NVH being worse . Maybe a front driveshaft rebalance would have helped but the truck only had 2000 miles on it I doubt anything was worn. I traded it in 3 months ago now that was just one of the many minor issues it had . Felt like it was always something,meanwhile my 11 Superduty f350 6.2 is a tank that just keeps going….

I just serviced my IWE's. They were pretty gummed up. Seems like something that should be serviced or replaced regularly. To me, this tsb is more of a bandaid.

*I loved the 4W Auto in my 2015 Platinum. I could use it on the street without binding like a traditional 4W HI would do* The only thing, as with most transfer cases, is to be sure to roll a few feet so they engage before using heavy throttle. Else it or the front hub etc would poop out and make horrific sound when it did. 😮

The TSB says for non raptor models only, could you explain why this is the case please?

Thank you. 😇

To:Ford Boss Me As one of your more than 108K subscribers and owner of a 2004 Expedition 4X4 I wanna thank you for all the videos you load up in this KZfaq channel. While I watched this video I think of the same humming problem I'm having with my Expedition. I wanna change out both IWE's but while doing some research I discovered that Dorman makes a 600-105 vacuum delete IWE kit. So before I proceed with replacing both IWE's, can you please give us, your viewers, your honest opinion on which would be the better, the OEM IWE or the Dorman 600-105 vacuum delete kit? Please reply soon. Thanks again.

Thankyou so much sir❤️❤️❤️

Is this applicable to F-150s that don’t have 4A, shift on the fly vs torque on demand (only have 2H, 4H and 4L options)?

Thank you!!!!!!

What did you use to plug vacuum holes?

Manuel locking hubs is the preferred fix

Hey Rich the vacuum line broke on my 2011 f 150 so the hubs were locked all the time . I noticed a 1 1/2 mpg decline in fuel mileage before I found the broken line. After I installed all new vacuum lines and the hubs were disengaged in 2 Hi the 1 1/2 mpg returned . Thanks for all your hard work !….

Thank you, I wish I found this last year before hav8ng both IWEs replaced only for them to fail again. And who cares if the front diff is moving? The rear diff always spins already!

when was this issued? I had my hubs replaced a year ago and they didn't removed that vacuum line. now having the same roaring issue again

Premature cv axel wear ....great fix

@Ford Boss Me Does the TSB state except Raptor? If so, do you know why?

That is what I did to my 2007 f150 and 2012 3.5 Ecoboost.

I think my 2008 Ranger 4x4 front axle shafts always spin. Theres no hubs to lock/unlock. Just the transfer case motor.

What are your thoughts on the dorman IWE deletes?

Thank you

I guess i will be carrying a couple vacuum caps in the future.

What does the acronym IWE stand for? Thank you.

I'm so lucky, i turn the button in my f150, 2015, and it works everytime

What about 2012. What might be different. What about manual hubs. Now I understand why it takes a certain amount of time for the 4HI to engage.

I prefer the full-time AWD system Ford used on the 2000 Ford Explorer. Never let me down in 22 years. New or old, a big factor in long term viability of truck drivetrains is doing all of the regular driveline fluid changes.

will this work on my 2008? my setup looks a little different. 5.4 litre

Will this hurt the front differential?

This is a great video as always! I have a 19' Lariat with the 4a option.Is it ok to leave it in this mode at all times? So many differing opinions on that.

What size are these Rubber Caps needed for the mod ?

Dang it I just had my two IWEs and Hubs replaced. It could have been a simple fi.

is this the same case with 2018 raptors?

what about 2020 model, is any changes?

What size of cap do i need? Can i buy it at auto zone?

I’ve had mine unplugged for a while. Issues with mine since 70k miles 🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks for the update. My 2018 F150 5.0 has had a whining sound ever since I had the TSB for rattle on deceleration and TSB for oil consumption. TSB's helped those problem's but then I started getting new whining sound. Any suggestions? Thanks

I have a 2019 F150 with the same 4A system and I’ve been hearing a humming/light vibration present at all speeds but more prevalent at low speeds. Gets much more noticeable at low speeds. Seems to almost disappear when In 4wd. Do you have any ideas on what could cause this? Some say that the differential goes bad prematurely on some of the vehicles equipped with 4A. Do you have any personal experience with that?

Will this work on non 4a models?

Had the exact same issue on my 2018 F150. Replace the solenoid and check valve assembly. It takes about 3 minutes and cost $60.00 from ford. Or, you can do what the video states and your gas mileage will suffer.

Love all the videos but why is it always about my truck, which hasn't had any issues. Just one more thing to listen for.

The Ford dealer called me last week to reprogram the transmission on my 2019 F350, dually, crew cab, 4x4. They sent a service van and two techs to my house and the techs spent about 35 minutes with multiple restarts of the vehicle as part of the programming. Have no idea what the TSB was for, but I thought it was nice they came to my house instead of having me bring it to the dealer.

Great Video! can i still use 4auto or will it still work if i delete the vacuum line?

I put the Dorman hub illuminators on my F150 best thing for the four-wheel-drive it works great fuel economy did not change at all I did to my sons F150 and my friends F150 for under $100 worth it

Could this be done to a 2012 model

I wish I could eliminate the shuddering from my AWD '08 Cadillac CTS when turning tight especially in reverse. The whole car shakes like crazy.

I just took my check valve and reversed it, been good ever since, even in 4A (2018 Platinum)

So your axles and front differential are going to be spinning all the time correct? I was wondering what are your thoughts about the reliability of old versus new versions?

Love the channel. I have a2017 lariat fx4. Had the intermittent hub grinding. I disconnected the solenoid plug. Fixed. Any difference between your fix with removing the vacuum line and what I did?

Hey man love the content. Been having what I believe is an IWE issue. Grinding noise coming from what I think is the front passenger side. Mostly happens when decelerating and make a right turn at low speeds. Replaced the check valve and that didn’t help. I went on a drive and could hear what I believe was air escaping on the passenger side. Leads me to believe I mIght have a leak in the vacuum system? Any ideas or experience with this?

I have a 15' platinum that has been nothing but trouble with the IWE. specifically the front drivers wheel. I only had the grinding noise when in 4a and 4h. Ive had the front hub replaced twice and they were shot each time. Will this fix that issue also?? I was going to convert it to manual before this winter but I would like to keep it electric.

You can use that e locker switch anytime it’s in 4H? I was told only when driving straight in 4L or stuck to lock it out.

Instead of removing the vacuum line and capping you can simply leave it alone and unplug your vacuum solenoid. that will do the same thing

Will this take care of iwe grinding until the truck warms up? Also will this cause more parts to fail down the road? I have a 17 xlt with non auto 4x4.

I had a low pitch hum/grind coming from under my feet in a 2017 f150 lariat. Had to have the entire front diff rebuilt at 30k miles under warranty. Im at 50k with my warranty up and the issue is back. Only used 4x4 once to get up my driveway in the snow, but the lariat 4x4 with 4a apparently is slightly engaged even in 2wd it is turning the front drive shaft. Should I do this to my 2017?

But since the hubs are locked it’s still gonna spin the front differential and spider gears, there just won’t be any engine power applied to it when in 2H?

I’ve been running 4A to avoid that scraping sound. So if I follow these steps I can run 2H ? (2015 F150 Platinum)

I need some help. I have a 2018 F150, and I recently replaced the driver side CV axle. After doing so I started hearing a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing, so I replaced the driver and passenger side. I still heard the noise. So now you're probably thinking it's the IWE. Well so was I, so I replaced the IWE check valve, and still heard the noise. I then replaced the solenoid and still heard the noise. I went and checked the IWE at the wheel bearing and when I applied vacuum the IWE moved in on both sides. I then checked the vacuum line to make sure there was no leak. Did not find any leaks. I noticed the noise comes on about half a mile after I left the area. Whether it's from home or work. The noise would sound around 25 MPH and start off with a low grinding sound. With higher speeds the noise would become faster and higher in pitch. It would stop around 55 MPH. I also noticed when I applied vacuum that the driver side axle would move. Shouldn't it not move? When vacuum is applied that would show that it's in 2-wheel drive, correct? Do you have any opinion on my situation?

What about 4A? Does the All wheel drive feature still work without having to go to 4H?

Are you still able to shift into 4hi on the fly if you do the tsb or cap the lines off?

My vacuum line for my 2015 goes from the check valve to a T fitting. Is that where I would disconnect and cap?

Will it work on a 2020 f150 5.0. I have a winding noise then goes away then slowing down it picks back up

Hey man, thanks for the video. I have a 2015 that has the 4a. Are you saying I can remove this vacuum line without doing any reprogramming? Sounds like a fantastic easy fix if so, my IWE have been humming for a while at low speed.

I have a 2017 F150 Lariat with 73,000 miles and my front diff already took a crap and it’s being replaced tomorrow. Of course Ford tells me there’s nothing they can do due to me being out of warranty so the $3800 will come out of my pocket at a local mechanic 🤦🏼‍♂️ Found some forum threads online of many people having this issue with F150s that have the 4A settings and front diffs going out. Have you heard of this? Also, do you think once I get my truck back from having new front diff installed that I should go ahead and cap this vacuum line as well? I’m just worried about the potential extra wear on the front end that I’m having replaced already. Thanks a lot

Would this same concept apply to a 2014 F150 that has the same 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L setup? I always hear a slight hum in the front of the truck in the winter when decelerating below 30MPH. I assume I am losing vacuum ? Thanks for the video

So can you still use the 4 auto or you have to go old school and from 2 wheel to 4 wheel?

Confused but I'm just an amateur consumer but faithful listener. Wasn't there a discussion a few weeks ago concerning the 4A setting and that it was not a good idea to use it all the time? Isn't that the same thing that the bulletin fix does?

I've had the same issue, but I just disconnected the solenoid. My hubs are locked in all the time. It will go into 4wd just fine when I flip the dash switch. What's the difference between the hose removal and unplugging the solenoid