Yeah this has fooled alot of people. I was actually fixing the radiator hoses when I noticed it

So what did you exactly do to rectify the sound?

😅😅Yj,#t

Greetings I just replaced my throttle body today 2016 Gt easy job odd ugly noise Gone Yeaaaaa . Running smooth with Mobile One 5 30 Cheers from Fl

Isn’t the purge valve supposed to click?

@@KollynJ Yes, but that is not what is clicking in this video

What did you find? I thought purge valves were supposed to click

So I'm at 299k miles now and mine is NOT the throttle body. It is most assuredly a rod bearing knocking. I'll swap rod bearings this summer by dropping the pan with the engine still in the truck. It's not fun, but it's just a weekend and not much money (180 bucks with the bearings, oil, and pan gasket) and I will likely drive it a few years afterward with no issue. For what it's worth and for anyone interested, rod bearings (and their knock) are down low, down in the oil pan. They have a distinct knock that sounds like two plastic screwdriver handles banging together repeatedly. While a harmless upper engine tick sounds like the metal shafts of the same two screwdrivers hitting each other. Again: Handles banging together is the rod knock sound. Metal shafts clicking together is the upper engine sound and harmless, usually. Best to you- J

Lower your oil velocity

How did you fix it?

Yeah they say when it stops making noise as you got to worry LOL I hope mine makes it that far I had a 2003 Harley-Davidson with the 5.4 with 230,000 miles and it looks brand new and would do 140 down the interstate like nobody's business

@@s.t.k.r.does the 5.4 startup rattle?ever have to do timing chain?

Yes I bought two of those metal ones off of Amazon put on two different trucks so far so good both trucks I made a hose coming from radiator to y with clamps so I will never have that problem again. What I'm reading is people are just replacing the O-rings but that plastic gets so brittle. I just hate it that you know it's going to happen just when on vacation or 3 hours from home who knows

I believe you can delete it but it has to be tuned out also

My truck is currently with a mechanic. Nobody can ever duplicate the stall. I will get a random stall after running a bit for a while..and sitting at lights it will stall after a minute of idling. Is this what happened to you?

@jeffa9678 no it never stalls out if anything it has a high idle. I think they should run live data it could be numerous things

@@jeffa9678I had the same problems it was my vct solenoids that went bad, got them replaced then never had the issue

Yeah this one runs. Just some bad engineering. But that's every car I guess

@@s.t.k.r. yep, I’m old and I’ll tell you that truck is a Cadillac compared to the old trucks and honestly it was hard to get 100k out of them old truck without a ton of work. I got a 2017 2.7 STX and I figure I’ll have to do the hoses this spring, might go ahead and do the water pump too, don’t look like to bad of a job.

Yes the water pump is not bad at all while you're doing the hoses would be a good time to do it

It's pretty simple if you're comfortable just pull your intake off and you can watch it but if it's not doing it all the time it might be tough to see it

@@s.t.k.r. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined. LOL! I'll mention it to the dealer when I bring it in for my next service. It's a shame I have this noise with only 5k miles on it:(

@@tommyelse3817 no doubt

I have 2016 Gt with 85 000 first heard today , hood open comes and goes I leave hood closed All Is Well .

I just bought my 23' GT manual 4 months ago and it has 4000 miles on it now. Had the hood up while it was running to show some friends and low and behold, the intermittent popping near the front of the intake manifold comes and go every 15- 20 seconds then itll disappear. Upon closer inspection it is definitely the throttle body popping as i can hear the whole engine change tone ever so slightly each time it does it. Like you I dont have any codes and car drive perfectly fine so not sure whats up but im going to take it in and get it fixed under warranty because it should not be doing that at idle. Im worried tho that even if they replace it with a new oem throttle body whos to say it wont just happen to that one too? Poor quality parts if you ask me

Yeah that's why I think I'm going to old school muscle next. Maybe with new style fuel injection from holler. Idk

That’s not true at all. I have the part numbers for both of those o-ring connections and replace them often. They are available through Ford.

Seems to be a pretty big issue and if it was to go out I think it could be considered a safety issue which should be a recall I think there is a TSB on it but Ford will not pay for it even under my extended warranty

And yes it is an easy issue to fix we also have the cam phaser problem

Yeah I found this out by accident Ford says it's because it gets dirty and it's kind of normal without the intake pipe off it sounds like it's coming from everywhere

Probably so if it's not a consistent tick.

My Mustang makes this sound as well. But it sounds like it's coming from under the car though. But I will look into this.

Pull air take put hand over throttle body , care full . it will replicate sound , put large screw driver on throttle body you can hear and feel . I replaced mine , stock , it was dirty on back side . Didn't bother with cleaning . Easy job .

Yeah it seems to be 2015 and above

That's funny

My truck now is clicking like hammers but not affecting anything. I keep planning to take it off and clean it. The last time I hit it with carb cleaner it calmed down

No. But I'm about to do plugs and thinking about removing intake to clean it or at least tb. Spraying it with cleaner helped for a few days. Which told me it's at least part of the problem

@@s.t.k.r. remove it completely, its an easy job, clean it thoroughly with spray tb cleaner. I used mother's mag and aluminum polish on mine, thru the bore and on both sides of the plate. Get the edges of the plate as well. It idled better, and had a much crisper throttle response when it was done.

Yes seems to be a common issue and even under extended warranty ford does not want to fix it. They said it might need a reprogram but after paying them for that they can't promise anything

I will say spraying throttle body cleaner into it did help a lot it is barely clicking now but I'm sure it will come back

FWIW I use truck for towing during snowmobile season so I didn’t want it to “fail” during a 10hr trip north. Otherwise I would probably run till failure. Motorcraft replacemnt TB wasn’t obscene from Rockauto.

Yes you are correct but a lot of the time they get brittle and break it's worth a shot but might not last long and yes they are expensive 130 or so from Ford and they say it's best to do both at the same time which I'm sure helps them LOL

2016 gt Me thinks wd 40 the intake valve hinge

Yeah I bet they do LOL

My truck ticks constantly if you want to check it out pull the airbox hose off and watch it

2016 gt same thing just found heard today and the Universe sent me a support group . Pretty cool . Thing runs great only hear SOMETIMES with hood Open . I leave hood closed . Fixed .

Akkons. Not bad for the price

Yes they can get loose but I have about fifteen thousand miles on it with no leaks so far I'm eventually going to get oem ones and do it right. But $130 for a little bit of rubber is ridiculous but that's the way the world is house

I don't know for sure but what I've Been Told from ford and other mechanics the throttle bodies have to be programmed to or truck so if you buy a new one which is 400 bucks $500 you have to pay them to program it mine has been doing it for over a year and it causes no issues other than sounding like somebody's under the hood. I refuse to pay ford more money while I'm paying a big truck payment and give them more money for something they should already fix

You are welcome please like And subscribe

Cleaning it will help but actually need a new throttle body and be reprogrammed or they say they can reprogram your old one update it but you have to pay for it and if it don't work you're out of the money

I know this is a strange request. I’m sure you have much better things to do with your time but if I sent you a couple of videos of the sound that my truck was making, would you mind giving them a listen and letting me know what you think? I’d really appreciate it.

@@Ericberkman03 send them to cvs5356@hotmail.com

kzfaq.infoN7Pk8oipYS4@@s.t.k.r.

kzfaq.infoJHaiD5eyGhE

That may be a timing parts problem

I'm going to see probably this weekend I'm putting new spark plugs in going to pull it off in and clean it the best I can and see if it helps. I know using some throttle body cleaner with the intake pipe off did help

@@s.t.k.r. spray the cleaner on a lint free shop towel. dont spray the cleaner directly into the throttle body its self.

@@sking5282 why is that? Spray it straight into my civic so curious if I shouldn’t do that

I got it on the front and the back. Ebay Amazon. Just make sure to get the right size

@@s.t.k.r. bad ass, Thanks Boss👍🏽

Yeah the tick is very erratic seems to be worse when it's hot

Yeah I like the old that's a normal noise. And it sounds like somebody's throwing pots and pans LOL

Shit I drive mine like I stole it. The computer has limits it sets. Ford sets them. If it's too much. That's their fault. It seems 2 of same truck same year 1 Vin off and 1 truck will be fine the other will be shit.

You replaced two fuel pumps? Mine died one me 2018 f50 and it threw codes for low fuel pressure…. I’m in the process of getting the pump in and having it replaced. 65000 miles run e85 in it

@@kkassen1 I have never ran a 85 mostly just 87 and I drive the s*** out of my truck no doubt Ivel put 40,000 miles on it in 2 years I've had one cam sensor go bad that shut the truck down ford replaced all kind of stuff to figure out it was a 80 dollar sensor. I think cars and trucks for hit and miss you can get one to last forever then you get one that won't make it five thousand mile

Update back at the dealership, transmission felt like someone ran into me from behind. I'm going to trade in for a dodge neon or civic

@@leonsoto8333 SRT-4 will be good

No but it lags at time at low speeds

The 18+ seems to have the problems, cam reversion issues.

@@169abr Ford has new updated cam phasers available they are just hard to find right now. Just make sure they are the new style if you have to replace them. I think Fordtechumechlo (sic) did a recent KZfaq video on updated cam phasers.

@@ronh9384 lucky for me I have a Gen 2 that is rock solid, but hopefully this fixed the issue for others

2018 3.5L 78k miles, cam phasers already replaced, transmission issues and more. You got lucky.

Well here before long when you spend about 5K replacing those crap turbo's you might change your opinion

@@jeffwhitney3369 well if you don't know turbos last 250k to 300k miles relax

I've had a Ford technician tell me that they need to be reprogrammed in the computer I may try this that if it gets any worse just don't see how a throttle body can go bad maybe they reprogram the throttle body itself I don't know

I do know that they have to go through a relearn process but Ford has to do it is what I was told

It just doesn’t seem like it’s the actual throttle body even if it’s dirty. It looks like it make be a computer deal or something it looks like it’ wants to engage on its own if you look closely I have the same truck 17 5.0 and it does the same thing. I noticed it at around 15k I’m 112 k in already. Haven’t had any issues my intake manifold control thing messed up so I had to find a air intake manifold to replace it. Some leaky hoses but just change the o rings on them and your good

Cleaning it helped a lot. Ford said it needs a program. I just assume to buy another one also

I'm not sure but I believe so

It's Electronically controlled I don't know if a new throttle body will help it Ford says it needs to be reprogrammed I'm going to update after I take mine off and clean it I used some throttle body cleaner while it was still on the intake and it helped for about a month

Yes

@@s.t.k.r. nice!

Could you imagine going to a dealership or mechanic and them charging you a ton of money saying it has something to do with timing or your engine

Yes and what I've been told if you buy a new one or used one it has to be reprogrammed by ford. Things are just getting too technical I'm about to go back old-school LOL

Its probably the fuel pump. They can be noisy. Its normal for those units.

Yes I clean mine it got quiet for a few days now it is barely ticking Ford dealership said they could reprogram it but couldn't promise anything but they would charge LOL

I have a 2016 5.0 also. I just cleaned my TB and did Seafoam spray treatment. I never noticed the ticking until I got ready to do the cleaning. Anyways - doing both really worked wonders with the throttle response and just seems to run smoother. I haven't had any issues at all with my truck but I'm trying to keep it that way.

@@s.t.k.r. You can't program a throttle body. Only modules can be programmed.

@@AT-wl9yq which is part of the throttle body

@@s.t.k.r. Its not, and I'll show you how to tell. When you go into the module programming section of IDS, look at the list of all programable modules. If its not on that list, you can't program it. You may be thinking of the abs pump where the module bolts to the pump itself. That can be programmed because its an actual module. I know it may look that way, but its not. There is a relearn procedure, but its automatic, and is done by the PCM. You can speed up the relearn process a bit by touching the battery cables together to drain the excess electricity in the system first, and then let the vehicle idle for a few minutes. But its not necessary, and the relearn takes place in the pcm. The PCM is the module for the throttle body, just like it is for injectors, coils, O2 sensors, etc. In my first post, I said that only modules can be programmed. While that's true, there can be some confusion. Certain parts, like free running actuators, need to be "programmed", or "learned". Things like Window actuators, sun roof and sunshade actuators and wiper motor actuators, can all be directly "programmed". When you program a module, you remove and replace actual software. When you program actuators, no software is involved. Since the actuators are free running, they need stop values, or range of operation. Those values are stored in the actuator itself. Just as an example, look at how wipers work. On traditional wiper systems, you have 1 motor that spins a lever in a circle that moves the rods that the wiper arms bolt on to. You don't have to program anything. You put the wiper arms on in the right spot, and everything works fine. On wiper arm actuators, that's not the case. Each arm gets its own free running actuator. These actuators are not connected to each other mechanically, and they share no information. If you don't program range of motion into each actuator, the wiper arms will crash into each other. Its easy to confuse this type of "programming", with an actual software update. Sorry for any confusion. I should have explained all this in my original post.

Crazy is what it is

Theu want stuff to last 36k. Most stuff don't. Trucks are 50k plus now. They could use good shit

Yeah being from the south we a little lazy with the talk

Yeah new throttle body and reprogram

@S.T.K.R. Motorsports I mean people were told countless other things and charges through the azz

Yes sir. That's true

After I added a cold air intake 2015 f150 platinum

Yeah it makes no sense clamps have worked forever