Thanks. I used to use polycarbonate many years ago but it just doesn't stand up well over time on boats so I mostly use cast acrylic now. Although polycarbonate has the advantage of less likely to crack during drilling or expanding and contracting around fasteners it has several disadvantages. The cost is crazy high now, it scratches more easily and it doesn't last near as long as acrylic in the UV. As long as you drill it carefully, use ample thickness and make fastener holes generously sized to allow for expansion, then in most cases acrylic is a good choice. But it needs to be cast acrylic, not extruded. And since 3/8" acrylic is plenty strong for these size windows there's no need to try to make them even stronger. If you choose a thinner more affordable polycarbonate with the idea that since it's stronger it can be thinner then you will potentially get leaks because it's too flexible, causing the sealant to lose it's grip.

@@atomvoyager that was great advice from your past working with polycarbon think the cost implications is all the police and riot shields they need around the world to quell the disconcert has put the demand for poly cost through the roof ,so the next windows i buy i,ll go for acrylic cast

@@atomvoyager that’s very useful info, appreciate the time it took to write that out

One of my refit Alberg 30 Voyager Edition boats has the Victron with bluetooth and has been working OK. But more often I use the Epever because I want to see the display at a glance without turning on the phone, the Epever costs less with the display, and it can be programmed easier without the need for the "dongle". You can read the reviews of both on Amazon and some solar forums.

@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply and I’m glad the Epever charge controller is working for you and are you able to see the display on the charge controller at a glance where it's mounted? I have the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30Solar Charge Controller and it doesn’t require a “dongle” (I think all the SmartSolar units don’t) and it would be great if it also had a display. It's always great to see your videos and follow along on how you approach every project with your sailing experience and a produce a better than factory professional result when you’re finished.

@@TerrydeAlaska I do have to poke my head around the backrest to see it but that's not much trouble and other space is limited. I see at the link below that a display can be added to the Victron SmartSolar so I may try this combo next time: www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTPQP1X/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1

@@atomvoyager One more thing, I forgot to tell you I have two charge controllers connected to my array of 600 watts for redundancy (300 watts for each controller) and they along with my battery sense will all connect into one network and I can see Network total power coming in as well as battery voltage and temperature. This would also work with a Victron Energy battery monitor as well, mine is an old one by bogart engineering.

Thanks. It's the standard F24 swim ladder installed at the Corsair factory. When folded up and attached with the lifeline pelican hooks it serves as a safety railing.

For coastal daysailing in SoCal the Corsairs are great for speed and less heeling although they require careful handling and a wide marina berth since it's not practical to fold them up in the slip because the sides of the amas would foul. There are other tris that the amas retract horizontally by swinging aft that would be better in that situation such as the expensive Dragonfly or the Telstar. There are many big and small trade-offs in going from mono to trimaran that you need to consider.

The F24 is noticeably smaller inside and can't carry as much crew and gear and living aboard for more than a few days is less comfortable. It's somewhat less safe and sturdy offshore. But I didn't care for the daggerboard and aft cabin layout of the F27 and the more work involved with a bigger boat. You really should try to go aboard both to see what suits your needs.

Yes, that's an Albin Ballad 30 we're currently working on. My next videos will cover several jobs we've done on that boat.

F24 MKI Corsair Trimaran

Besides checking the various online boat listing sites such as sailboatlistings.com and the F-boats dealer in Florida, you could post your question on the F-boats forum linked below. There was a post of an F27 for sale there recently: fct.groups.io/g/main

This boat came to me with the tensioning tackle of blue lines set up to tension the shrouds and the system works well. Maybe other boats do it different.

@@atomvoyager I can confirm my 24 MK I has the exact same system - I think quite a few of the Corsair designs to. Thanks for these videos, we're hoping to make ours look half as good as this!

For interior I like to use EZ Cabin Coat that I tint to off-white or any good semi-gloss mold-resistant water-based interior paint. I don't use single part paints for exterior any more because they don't stand up long enough to the UV and abrasions to make them worth the labor involved. The Triton will sail at 6k all day long in the right conditions, although 5k is a more realistic speed made good in 24 hours. The F24 MKI will do a max of 15k in flat water, with 12k being a safer speed with less threat of burying the lee flat and turning over. In bigger seas offshore 12k is max and 10k is effortless so off the wind the speed of the F24 is roughly double that of the Triton or similar monohull.

We didn't find a good method of removing the contact cement. We did a combination of chisel, stiff putty knife, wire wheel on a drill and various sanding methods. The fiberglass is thin inside and rough surface so it's not possible to get all the glue off. But we got some of it off and applied a thin layer of West System resin thickened with 407 fairing compound additive then sanded and applied an epoxy primer over what remained and left the surface slightly rough and used a stain or semi-gloss paint that helps not to highlight the roughness and it came out pretty good. Experiment with your cleaning and painting method in a small area and see how it looks. The epoxy primer is tough so should resist coming off even though it has some glue under it.

@@atomvoyager Thanks for the feedback. I thought I'd be in for a lot of sanding, but maybe only need to get down to glass on the high spots. The interior surface was left with the rough texture from the roving and I don't want to sand into the fibers and weaken the laminate. There are some areas that I want to stiffen with stringers, so I'll probably need to get down to the laminate in those areas at least, but will be building them up with the additional material.

@@sammiller709 Yes, I only needed to get the glue off the high spots of the fiberglass cloth weave in order for the fairing compound or primer to adhere well enough. If you want to discuss other things on the F24 or compare notes you can contact me by email through atomvoyages.com. I'll be interested to hear what else you're doing.

I sold the two burner and bought the single on ebay to simplify, save weight and space and because I lived aboard my other boat full-time for many years and got by fine with one burner. Even meals normally done on two burners are easy on a single by being creative on swapping around the pots. For example, cook the sauce, then boil the pasta, set it aside and briefly reheat the sauce. And anyway, this is not a long-term liveaboard situation.

Thanks for you answer!

I had that in stock from years ago and apparently they are no longer produced. I liked it because it was less bulky than the RAM mount.

@@atomvoyager thanks James, same thing here I find the RAM bulky too.

Over the years I've bought three Alberg 30s to resell and was once the reluctant owner of a 60' wooden cargo schooner that needed rescue before it sank in Trinidad but have never been afflicted with the "need a bigger boat syndrome".

@@atomvoyager It was a while ago and it could have been someone else. I followed your postings years ago while doing a major refit of my own.

Here's a link to a F-boats forum. There are also sites that pop up with an online search for general info. fct.groups.io/g/main/topics

@@atomvoyager Thanks!

I don't have a problem with the bolt rope jamming except that there is more friction than I like on my newest mainsail boltrope as it slides in the mast slot. The sailmaker either used too thick a boltrope or too thick sailcloth that wraps around it. The old main works fine though. As a cruiser I don't want the complication of of a rotating mast. I kept the roller reefing boom setup mainly since that's the way the boat came. There are pros and cons to it compared to slab reefing (AKA jiffy reefing). If setting up a new system I'd be tempted to go with slab and a low friction Tides Marine track, although it adds weight and cost.

@@atomvoyager thanks for your reply do you need to round up to reef.. The tides track look great but I'm in Tasmania, Au so the freight is prohibitive not to mention the import duty

@@adrianbaker9804 Generally I don't need to round up but sometimes it's easier that way.

You can email me through the contact button at atomvoyages.com

I recently sold this boat for $33,500. I was reluctant to sell it but I didn't have time to use it.

@@atomvoyager Thanks for responding...that's right in my price range which makes me happy. 👍 The corsair 880 is just too high for me right now and these look great.

I ended up selling this boat a few months ago for $33,000 since I had other commitments and wasn't using it.

It sails effortlessly at 10 knots and 12 knots is easy to get. Top speed would be about 15 but there is risk of burying the ama at that speed. 12-13 knots is fairly safe and easy though.

@@atomvoyager That’s enough speed to outrun a storm. Really admire your work, fair winds.

Sometimes a damaged Corsair comes on the market but they often require special expensive parts and skilled repairs to get them back on the water. If any come on the market they are often mentioned at this forum: fct.groups.io/g/main/