Thank you for taking both the cost hit of the new submersible pump + the time to disassemble and explain the components of a submersible pump. This has value for many families. Well done.

Came across your video looking up info on well pumps. Good to know I'm not the only one who saves things you somehow know you'll use later down the line. 👍🏼

Very interesting and I must say you have a special attitude of which I wish I had. Thanks for the show.

Very well done and instructive video! I just change my old (220 Volts-3 phase and 3.5hp) deep well pump by a new one in Argentina. The old one it lasts about 10 years of use for the irrigation. I think its burned because some high voltage peak. Thanks to your video, I learned what's inside and how it works. Thanks!

great video ! I always wondered what was inside one of these. I've gone through 4 pumps in 30 years living in the Sierra foothills. Enjoy

Wow. I am so glad I found this. Building a new house and first time I've ever had a well. My curiosity has been through the roof and thanks to you I can sleep without wondering: "how does that skinny pump work down there?" Cheers!

I had to replace a pump motor that was a 2012 unit. The well guys said that could be part of the problem, and if I wanted to save them coming back in the foreseeable future that I should just replace it while they were there. They had one on the truck, a little more horse power, and went with new install. You always wonder about such things, but you have my decision easier to bare. Thanks. Love the fact that you breezed through all the tedious part of screw removal and other time consumers. Good job.

Nice, I’ve been wondering how one of these works and seeing the insides is a plus!!

oh cool bro thanks for this video!!! i got 2 well pumps from the scrap yard for cheap and i wanted to take one apart to see whats inside. found your video and saved me all the work!!!

You did a good job with your video - it got to the facts without being boring.

Nice to see the curiosity, tried to show the kid but really no interest in just learning how things work. To me that is the most fun also. Being on city water we can only experience the deep well pump teardown from guys like you that take the time to film. Thank you sincerely. Lawson di Ransom Canyon

awesome, thanks for taking the time and showing the steps the pump is taking to get water where I needed it!!!!!

It's probably a triac. When power is applied the bi-metallic strip is in contact so the triac energizes the start winding. As the motor spins up it generates heat which in turn causes the strip to bend and opens the switch. This bypasses the start winding and the motor continues to run on the main winding alone.

Nice! I've always wondered how they worked, I'm dreading the when the time comes to replace mine.

Wow, that was great. Loved the mystery ejecting sequence. Everything I take apart, ever since I was 10 years old taught me to expect something under tension to come flying out. It was satisfying to see that rule still holds and I'm well over 60. Anyway, I'll be paying someone to pull my submersible, though I do damn well want to do it myself. "Damn well" ... ha ha get it?

My dad had a similar attitude to yours. Well, so far as finding parts and materials to save. Although he was a city boy, he was the first generation city hoy. My granddad grew up in the country and probably still had the understanding broken things weren’t junk, especially living in the country in the early 1900’s. But my dad wasn’t as interested in how things worked. That’s me...also with the salvage gene.

The knowledge and work it took to invent and produce these mechanical gadgets amaze me.

Knowledge is Power. You should do a Saturday morning TV show. I'd watch it for sure!

I love that your first reaktion when a thing shoot out of the motor, was to look into where it just shot a thing out from :D

You have to be a fellow hoarder as I am to. Always looking for a use for old parts. Nice video. Thumbs up.

Interesting video, Ive always wondered about the inner workings of a pump like that.

Many thanks for this video,super! Good music at the end !Regards,Ben.

I work on water Wells it's awesome you took it apart and were interested pretty cool

Oh dear. Mine has also been in since about 1972 on the old property i have. So i guess i can’t repair myself. Thank you. Saved me from wasting time.

At least you look on the bright side,its ain't much but least you got something from it.Also it was informative and interesting so thats good

I run a well pump farm. We usually get them in as Aquarium or more often fountain pumps and then feed them until they are self priming and are ready to move to the deep well pump pool. Most often we'll sell them off at around 120 volts, but some we let go up to 240. Your pump appears to have suffered from pulmonary embolism, which is brought on by filling your pool several times in a row, or throwing a washing machine party. I suggest only feeding your new pump clean watts and avoid any future water parties or late night bucket filling adventures. Pumps work best between 6am and after sunset right before dusk unless you can sneak up on them during noon when they are napping. The part you were inquiring about is a simple proximity sensor. It's looking for other pumps in the general area. Most people think of the well pump as a solitary creature, but they have been known to pair up.

Excelente conocimiento, pensé en que la repararías, pero no me voy con mal sabor de boca, tengo algo mas en mi cabeza gracias men

You had lots of service. Be thankful.

Wow, yours lasted a long time! Great video, now I know what to expect when mine fails.

It is fun and educational open up a fail pump. Thank you!

I believe switch is a thermal overload protection. The start switch is capacitor and separate magic timer in a box . Just so happens taking my pump out today ( only 8 yrs old) . Sesrching too purchace pump and found your interresting video.i save parts too lol. When your a hobby machinist one becomes a collector to put it gently. Lol

Interesting. Used to have troubles with one of these pumps. After just 7 months of use it was causing the terminal switch from my house to cut the power (don't know the correct terminology in English). Everytime it was plugged, instantly power was cut off. An electrician installed it without the terminal protection, directly to my house service connection and worked. Had to buy a new one, never knew why it did that

I’ve had stuff like this I’ve fixed but still didn’t use them again. Depending on the difficulty of getting to the part new just makes more sense. I took a pump apart that was drawing to much current and it was just a bearing. The problem is even if I fix it the o-rings would need to be replaced exactly or they would leak. The down times not worth the savings. It can be used somewhere less critical than my water supply. I do what you did, scavenge parts. Lots of stainless nuts and bolts and tid bits for future projects.

We've got very corrosive salty water on our farm, and we've had to change out a few of those submersible pumps over the years. The pump side was still perfectly fine, its mostly plastic impeller parts, we've learned to just buy a replacement motor and couple it to the existing pump ellement.

Interesting autopsy!!! Thanks.

thank you, much better info than pump diagrams from the pump suppliers and makers.

They tell you "Never mix electricity and water" as a kid, then you find out they've been stealing all the fun for themselves the whole time.

Thanks for the video.. I faced problem in my submersible pump.(1hp) I checked resistance in motor found ok. Further checked found pump electric panel card fault. So replaced the card now works fine..

I would love to see a side-by-side tear-down of a new pump vs that old pump!

Well done, quite interesting.

Great video / disection. Thanks

When was this pump design invented? Amazing technology! Great lesson, thank you.

i work for a well water supply and water treatment system wholesale company i deliver Franklin pumps to well drillers daily and i can say they hold up pretty good too.

Great detective work, lot of engineering want to that pump.

Thank you for the explanation...

Man, I thought I repurposed stuff...you are awesome!

I hope my well will give me 43 years of service. Great video

Date code on the Franklin motor was April 2005. The pump was an F&W, probably similar vintage. So it lasted 13 years.

Great video...smart guy

3:50 That's a Thermal Overload switch. It cuts power to the motor if the Temperature gets to high preventing damage to the motor. Overheating in well pumps is usually caused by either a bad bearing (starting to seize up) or debris jamming the pump impeller.

Knowledge always has value. Be it good, bad, or indifferent. Its use will become apparent.

Thanks for this.

The hose clamps are there to connect the pump assembly to a plastic hose. The hose also carries the weight of the pump and is subject to its starting torque. Many submersible pumps are hung on 1" galvanized pipe. If your pump has been in there for forty years, hanging on plastic pipe I would worry about the plastic. Ask the people who put you new pump in.

About the temeperature thing... I think it's a Bi-Metal switch, connected to the Triac (Triacs are used to switch AC Power, MOSFET's can only switch DC). But i don't know why there are 3 Connection-Pins. Eventually this connections are Live, Neutral and the switched one, who is connectet to the Motor.

Nice video good explanation.

The rubber and plastic seals cause most of the failures with the pumps. Sand in the bottom of the well can scour the impeller rendering it useless. Even with the long-term wear issues we replaced windmills with submersibles and have not looked back. The maintenance on the submersible electric is nothing like the replacing of leathers and the annual maintenance on older windmills. Plus, the old Aeromotor windmills were worth a good deal of money, people wanted them for their aesthetics which offset the cost of the new elelctric pumps.

very informative...thanks

excellent video. thanks.

very nice bro.

Nice Homart fan under the workbench!

my pumps been down in the hole for 40 years so I know the clocks ticking thanks for the tear down looks like an easy fix unless I change to surface top pump

Good Video .. thanks for sharing .. , I like the way you think .. !! Great minds think alike !

Thank you for sharing

Fantastic . Great Explanation,

Nice work

that thing popping out of it made my day. probably the contact cant handle the current draw of the motor so the mosfat is used to turn the motor on and off with the signal of the contact switch

Amazing video ❤️❤️❤️❤️

thank you for showing us. how a pump works.always thinking if motor went out. could you put above ground pump and suck thru old pump???? low cost. ??? my pump getting old and don't want to replace it..thanks for showing how it works.

Thanks for the video...I just replaced my well pump in my 450 foot deep well. 15 psi for every 33 feet of well depth makes my pump output pressure about 200 PSI

Cool video!

A mans favorite line, I can use it for something! LOL

I actually rebuild these forms living...well except mine are 250-2000gpm pumps. Kinda cool to see this lil baby pump

i always wondered how a deep well pump worked - thank you!

I believe the temp switch uses a mosfet as a switch. Use very small signal to control a larger voltage.

ours lasted from 1992 to 2018 it was a good one replaced it not long ago and yes they do cost about 400 took 3 people to do the job of pulling it all out

I think the TO-220 package might be a triac for switching AC current - like a mosfet but capable of switching AC

I love the AVE style green mat.

my wild guess on the FET thing that popped out is that it's not temperature, but a motor start. Once the motor is up to speed, it'll disengage the start winding.

Its an internal submersible pump thermal, if your panel that runs your pump may have landings for wires from the pump. If three phase power wires would be black, red, white, seals would be orange and red, thermals would be black and white. The seal and thermal wires would be smaller gauge wire. I'm guessing this is a single phase with no pump seals or thermal besides the internal one to the pump which would act like a hair dryer when tripped it will take time to cool and remake the path of electricity a closed circuit again . Just my thoughts with working with submersible sewage pumps. I'm guessing as well that the pumps turn off and on by a up stream pressure sensor if the sensor senses psi is below 60 psi the well pump turns on. Great channel keep up the good work.

cool teardown

Simply stated, a centrifugal pump works by throwing water against the sides of the space the impellor is in, and the only place for it to go is out the top. That space is usually called a bowl, and on some of them, it is bowl shaped. The motor and hence the impellor is spinning very fast, so it is being thrown very hard.

mine went out in May, 165 ft down it lasted 15 years. Got a 1hp replacement and that thing cost me $850 for just the pump and $300 to pull the well and put the new one back down.

I just learn something new from ur disassembly

had one of those at the farm i worked at, 85 feet down, pulled it to change the pump cause the check valve failed. put in the new pump and added a check valve to the old one. two years later swapped out the newer pump cause the motor burned out.

Very important video dear

Cool ,never seen any one open that kink of motor before!

I had what looks to be the same model of Franklin deep well pump go bad on me 5 years after installation in 1977, the electrical connector on the motor shorted out from water leaking in somehow.

👍Subscribed. this is awesome stuff. I'm gonna have my own work garage too👍🙏THANK YOU for inspiring.

OMG, 1972? Incredible! Look like from 2000's

The plug w/3 wires is for the start and run compasitor. U have a 2 wire pump. A3 wire pump has start and run located above ground. (I prefer this type, easy to service.

The next video will be a person who takes apart what you've made w/what you found, and then hear his explanation of how it worked and what he's going to do w/the left over parts :)

That switch you were holding that popped out the inside looks like a Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) they area high current/voltage switch. possibly hooked up to a temp switch and would turn off the motor if overheat.

Interesting. Lots of stages. In an industrial application, that number of stages, would produce hundreds of psi differential pressure. This one works for a well though.

Any chance you remember the rpm on that pump? Those backwards curved impellers require very high rpm to move their intended liquid or vapour.

What was the part number on the TO-220 mosfet looking thing? Could have just been a BT### series triac from the way it is wired. The bimetallic strip heats up, disconnects, and that disconnect only happens at a few miliamps, leaving the heavy duty beefy switching to the silicon. That way your heat sensor contacts will not wear out ever. Edit: I was almost right, it was only for the start winding.

Very interesting.

i have two old pumps out in the yard, your welcome to them

thanks for the video. I was wondering why the motor was so heavy.

That switch is the mechanism that disconnects the start winding and energizes the running windings. The motor is supposed is filled with clean water with a bit of non hazardous anti-freeze so they don't freeze and burst open in a warehouse or building somewhere. The top "rubber part" is not a main seal and can be gone and still function. It is called a sand slinger. Helps to keep sand away from the top bearing. The swelling inside causing the rotor to be locked and not turn is most likely due to a power surge and swelled the windings. Seen it many times. I was hollering at the video saying the liquid end screws on. The liquid end was probably OK, though very few installers any more will just replace the motor only like we used to do 30 years ago. The liquid end will usually pump in excess of 100#'s in order to push water up the well and still create cut off pressure on the switch above ground. It takes 1500 degrees to turn the epoxy to sand and free the copper. Cost more to get a furnace to that temp than what it is worth unless you have a huge amount of motors.

I just did an identical set up. Our system is 3phsse 415v motor. I have to replace the impeller pump end (not the motor) every 12 months as it gets clogged with muddy silt from our old borehole and the flow to our storage tank dwindles. I also cut one open but could not quite grasp the magic of how the plastic discs worked!