kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9OEic1myrq7mn0.html Here are additional key information for modified engines plus more cooling stuff...

Been running an oil temp gauge for 20 years and has served me well. If your oil temp gets too high you know your heads are too hot. Best thing i did for my engine run cooler (being in southern California where it gets very hot in the summer) was to space the engine lid. Dropped my oil temp like 40 degrees. It has never overheated since.

VERY enlightening!! I've been around bugs since 1960, yeah I'm THAT old! Through the years, it's amazing how many things we forget. Just got a VW Trike for the wife. Engine's fairly open, so I wasn't worried 'bout bottom tin. OOPS, gonna install them. I like that you brought attention to oil temp. vs engine temp! An engine can literally 'smoke' itself before the oil temp goes up.

yes , and keeping engine clean & oil free....I created channel adapters , from aluminum....I run J-tubes , they take the place of the heater box sides....sold a pair , on my '67 bug.....kool vid , thanx from all bugheads everywhere

Mike, you are a wealth of information. 100% of things you mentioned I had to figure out though out the years with many failures.

this is good thinking and it helps me out now. cheers from Drangedal, Norway!

Good advice on keeping top and bottom of the motor isolated, that's key as is running all the tin including "sleds" underneath. As VW increased fan capacity they started adding the deck lid louvers. My 1970 has two rows of louvers and a rain shield but not the dog house shroud, just a wider fan. Doghouse flows a lot more air. You may never have a problem but the best place for fuel filter is where the fuel line comes out of the chassis at the back of the pan and use a metal one, not plastic or glass. Almost everybody tossed the flaps and thermostat when rebuilding but the flaps actually redirect a little more air over a section of the heads even when fully open. It's not vital but does help cool the heads some. I run them in my bug but not in my speedster. I also don't like how the new thermostats fail closed but the old accordion stats can still be found. If you run stand offs you can use baja bug tricks to keep your bug running in the rain/wash. Hair spray on the plug wires was one of my favorites. :)

You mention 'you know how it sound like' (when it gets hot) and that brought me back to 1985 and my 1967 bug. I remember exactly what your talking about. When the engine got too hot, it got weak and sounded different...

Love this!!! As far as air flow goes, I agree about the firewall tin... however for fire sake, I don't agree that this can be removed. Anything that helps block flames from the cabin will give passengers valuable time to exit in case of fire.

How to prevent your air cooled VW from overheating ? Just assemble and install it the same as they did from the factory with all of the same parts that it came from the factory. The folks at VW put a lot of Deutschmarks into designing it so it would run well, don't try to re-engineer it.

Great explanation! Good job and nice bug! Just a little improvement: Relocate the fuel filter below your tank to avoid leaking and fire in your engine compartment.

I grew up with VW but not a handyman. I never install a 009, just a vacuum centrifugal advance because former makes engine run hot. Nice video. 😎🇵🇭👍

My 71 bus(12yrs)had a Berg $5 oil dipstick temp gauge. Made the red oil light flash when oil got hot. Used it on my 1776cc dual carb. I added a deep sump and external oil cooler w/ electric fan mounted away from engine under floor. Course my oil volume went from 2qt to 6qt. I totally agree that ALL SHEET METAL has to be there.

This video is packed with useful info!

Awesome cooling tips, thanks !

Nice tip on rejetting and cylinder head temp gauge on #3. I like the version which uses a ring under the plug. I’ve had bad luck with the version which utilizes a cooling fin attachment. For Florida summers I use the deck lid stand offs along with your lid lift. I also like the Mystery Oil setup. I’ve been doing VWs since 1977 and it’s funny older you are the more stock you run and appreciate the amazing engineering done by the factory designers.

I have never had an overheating issue with my '71. When i adjust the valves, I always leave #3 a bit loose. I also have an oil cooler and filter (aftermarket) Also, keep the seals in good shape as well. Every 1500 miles or 3 months, i inspect the fuel pump, lines and fittings.

Back in the '80s I put Bus wheels on my Ghia: an inch shorter and an inch wider than original. I found some relatively low profile Michelins that were just about the same overall diameter as the original tires, so I had the same gearing and my speedometer was accurate. For clearance, I only had to grind the rear bump stops a little bit.

I agree with this hears my question doing it this way will be great in stop in go traffic and Fwy driving

On my Type 2 Transporter I routed the fuel line/filter round behind the manifold at the rear of the Carburetor. A little harder to get at but I learned after a near catastrophic engine bay fire it was worth the hassle.

great info video. a must watch for all newbies to the VW family. Keep dubbing

What people fail to figure out is the whole cooling system is "ducted" so the air flows evenly to the places it needs to be. Removing any of the sheet metal or modifying the flow screws that up. This goes double for those deflectors under the cylinder barrels and the curved pieces between the heater box and the block., It's all there to shape the flow for maximum cooling. The factory inlet louver above the decklid already has enough opening for the needed flow. The only reason the convertible decklid has louvers is because there is no opening in the body. Yeah, many of the later bugs had louvers in the lid, but that's more for the trapped heat when you park in warm climates. You will never see any improvement in cooling on the highway.

It's funny that most people's engines always have those tin screws that secure the bottom tin to the case missing. Not sure why, but I bet it's well over 50% of the motors I look at have those 4 screws missing. I'm sure you also notice that the carb preheat tubes are missing the inner and outer top seals. Not a big deal, but still missing and a place air can recirculate back up top. You obviously know your way around ACVWs but for those that don't know what complete tin looks like, you might want to point that out. Great vid none the less.

Awesome video man. I truly love my 70 bug

Thanks for all the information sir and I need to buy almost all the important. Parts for my 68 thanks so much and great video 👍

Great video, as always Mike!

I learned a lot !! Thanks 👍😃

Thank you for the tips !

I'm watching and learning! 👍 thank you

Good stuff. Really eye opening for me.

Thanks! I learned a lot from this video👌🏻

Wow. So much great info.

Yup, been running premium gas since the lead was removed (ages ago). Since the Bug gets pretty good mileage I figure spending more on gasoline (per gallon) evens out in the end. Costs less to operate than my Toyota Land Cruiser on regular gas. I used to run my old Karmann Ghia with full instrumentation: tach, volts, oil pressure, oil temp, head temp. And the doghouse cooler, after Gene Berg did tests showing the German engineers knew what they were doing.

Ditto on removing the fuel filter. Relocate under the wheel well. Also, lace the hose clamps where they connect to the carb and fuel pump as the brass fittings frequently slip out of the casting. This together with ensuring you have a good grommet where the metal fuel line enters the firewall and you will have mitigated 99% of the risk of fire. Very nice car. Please do not let it burn up. I have seen too many, all the same cause.

keeping the baffle deflector between the cylinders is very important as well as a sealed doghouse,no holes in it,also keeping for fan free from dirt,and keeping all ribbed aluminum on block free of gunk or debris,fan tension and length of spark plug threads also are factors,depending on what kind of driving you will be doing.oil level also very important a vw only takes 3 qts so if you are low a 1/2 qt thats going to be a problem.oil leaks gunk up cooling fins and compromise cooling ability.i can keep going but i won't.theres so many things.

This type of air cool engine is very sensitive to tiny oil leak. Air if move fast can sitting dust on surfaces as head cylinder and cylinder plates if plates oily. Good assembling and sure to oil sealed is important.

Thanks for all the info 👍👍

I have a 1979 VW karmonn super beetle. Do you know what size the engin is, do I need to rejet the carb, and is the trans. ok to go 70 with the gearing I really injoyed this video. thanks for the info. I had a 1959 VW bus and I put chevy rims on it and did noyhing like you were talking about so now I know why I went through 4 engaines

gracias carnal,voy a aplicar algo de lo que aprendi aqui para mi vw 1971 westfalia motor 1600,listo para viajar ala playa

Never been around beetles and somehow this video came into my feed. Very interesting watch! I think in regards to the cooling points made, you have guys coming from water-cooled backgrounds unaware just how much engineering work went into that ducting. They chuck it thinking its a weight mod or hindering the ability for easy maintanence.

Thanks for this vid and good info.. peace.

Very informative, thanks.

mind is scrambling thinking what i need to do on the bug now this ugh added to the list lol

Also painting your engine is a bad idea. A clean rough casting is best for heat dissipation. Dr Porsche knew what he was ding. Very smart guys designed this stuff.

You mentioned doghouse oil cooler? I used a type 4 as advised by my mechanic. It is hot in my country 8 months in a year. Good video!!!

What about making sure the belt is snug? And that there is enough crankcase oil? 45 years ago when I used to pump gas in these things I very frequently found those items needing attention. And that was when the speed limit was 70 (before it was lowered to 55).

I bought a after market oil cooler that screwed on the back of the fan housing, and it also came with a oil filter that use a regular oil filter.,A head temp. Guage would be a good idea.and 30wieght synthetic oil which handle the heat better.I see your engine has a 09 distributor and a Bosch coil good improvements .

Thanks for the tips. What main jet should be run for a stock rebuilt 36 horse power ? I would like to know?

My simple way to keep my 68 bug cooler , was to drill a small hole in the rear bumper at the center ''front'' edge , and a small hole in the engine lid at the low tip , put a old fashioned screen door hook in the bumper ......and the hook eye nutted into the engine lid ......and open the lid , insert the hook into the hook eye , drive down the highway.....simple . An VDO oil temp ''told '' me it worked cuz if the oil temp started to rise to higher than I liked it , I would pull over and open the lid , put the hook that was dangling from the bumper into the engine lid eye , get back on the road and watch the oil temp drop quickly to where I liked it .......the engine lid was about 4 inches ''open'' , and sucked the heat OUT ........simple !!!

Lots of great info

How do you know if the fan is functioning? Thanks. Great video!

Nice looking VW's...

Thank you for the video I'm new to VW, i got a 75 and I'm curious if i put a temp head gauge what the temp i should keep it. Thanks

All these people without the proper tinwork and seals complaining about the "design flaws" of the engine. No, its the fact that you butchered it. Take out half the radiator and switch down to 1/2 radiator hoses and see how well your water cooled car works.

Very informative thanks

Hey Mike, Im working with a guy to restore a beetle for me and I was wanting to put dual 40 IDF carbs on the engine. He keeps telling me that dual carbs will cause the engine to overheat all the time. Its an 1835cc engine. Do you have any idea if 2 carbs will cause the engine to run much hotter than a single carb?

Tire width and sidewall aspect ratio will always determine the final gear ratio on any vehicle. Bear in mind that a larger overall diameter/circumference tire will make the wheels spin slower and you must watch speed because indicated speed will be lower than actual. The only mods to VWs that are really worth it are ones that route the air around the engine more efficiently.

Front engine tin is necessary to prevent heat from being suck in and additionally is the front tin seal. It is necessary also.

Mike, thank you for the cooling tips! Any brand of Premium Gas that you would recommend? I have the non-doghouse engine oil cooler that came with a protective metal mesh in front of it and I cut that mesh because I thought that it was too restrictive and besides it is inside the fan housing, I think it helps. I would prefer a doghouse cooler but is it hard to install in a single port?

I have a 64 Baja bug and there is no "give" when I push down on the front end. Do I have locked up shocks, or is the problem actually in the front end itself? Thanks.

i got 2 bugs both running and driving no rust in them but are baja's one is a 63 the other is a 74 the 63 has a 72 bus trans axle in it got both for 400 bucks think i got a good deal with extra parts and custom wheels good tires the 63 takes chevy 5 hole car same as my camero center line wheels

Make sure your old tar board insulation on the fire wall is in good shape, attached, or replaced. Dangling or broken firewall insulation will suck right over that fan hole no problem.

If a bug overheats normally she will cut out let her cool completely before starting her up again. As it is an air cooled engine very same as a ride on lawnmower. I remember we had a heat wave in Ireland. The push petrol mower cut out i let her cool down and ran her again. Vw beetle uses the same principle

I'm amazed how many people still put the fuel filter in the engine compartment with the known fire risk from the distributor and exhaust right there. It's not that hard to put it up front instead. At least yours isn't over the distributor like most people do.

I have a '79 convertible - How can I tell if it's running hot, especially with the top down, driving 2-3 hours to the beach, on the interstate? Thanks!

This is one of the most valuable video about Vw I’ve ever watched!!! Thank you man!!! I think you just save my poor engine!!!! I was doing it all by ignorance.

Best to run in a cooler country.. Heads crack around or near the plugs. Built in flat spot on standard carb in the 70s

185mm aspect ratio 75 or 92 for climbing tires thru the terrain in Germany mountain and Alps of Italy. This is 381mm Firestone made in 1935 ad 381mm is 15 inch for motorists in Germany read only R381 on the Mich or Mick tire.

I have a question. My bus run fine until it's hot then stalls. I have to wait until it gets cold to start again

Very good video!

What would happen if you were to reverse the air fan, so the air would come out the top and sucked In from the bottom?

Should those air outlets be capped if you run J tubes?

Great video! Thanks

The only mod I did to my VW is I encreased the RPM of the cooling fan by using a different custom set of pullies. Yes it makes the performance suffer a little bit but it's worth it in the long run!

If I had a Beetle, the first mod I would implement is a way smaller pulley on the generator/air fan shaft for greater speed.

Do deck lid standoffs help at all ?

The long tube swing axle has the 4.12 r/p

Hey Mike, Someone had a question on a bug engine and thought I would ask you. They have no problem starting when the engine is cold but when it's hot take awhile cranking to start it again. They were thinking a vapor lock from having the metal type gas filter where this plastic one is sitting on yours. Or do you think it may be their fuel pump?

Nice info thanks.

Why some people say "no" or finger down?...The guy took his time to show some positive issues on the air cooled VW engine.Please guys. From me is a...THANK YOU.

I just bought a 69 beetle with a 1600 and it overheated on the way home and I am pretty sure I can solve that( Wrong coil,no heater hoses,non vented dec lid,etc…) but now its the next day and it was extremely hard to start and it wont stay running at idle. Did I permanently damage it or what do I need to look at after I address the cooling issues?

Never had a VW or Karmann Ghia that over headed, and never had one that could heat the cabin on cold days. Leave everything as factory set - no problem

How long does it take for the car with red wheels to overheat at 65mph +?

Cool, thank you!

Just got my 73 bug running again. After watching this video, I'm wishing there was someone like you or even YOU near to take a look at it. My biggest fear is breaking down, being stranded. The guy I bought my bug from, back in 1989, cut the spindles to lower the car :/ I suppose that has altered the airflow? Is there a way to fix or put original/uncut spindles back on? Great video, thanks for sharing, Lo :)

Did you notice the engine with solid state ignition has no clamp on the output of the fuel pump at the fuel pump? Thank you for the info as I am in the process of acquiring a late 50's early 60's bug preferably with manual ragtop sunroof. Thanks for all the info.

Nice bugs man👌👌

Good video overall but don't forget to prep the heads first. Most all heads need the fins cleaned up and profiled with a circular saw and speed controller . All the flashing and shitty casting benefit. Even drilling out flashing where possible. #2 fix all oil leaks. Super important.

how about ecm's and over the decklid oil coolers

Check your pulley sizes. Shutters in your fan housing? Gene Berg oil temp. dip stick. Then you know.

You do have Mercon V fluid in the Volkswagen air cool transmission at the back. You need to stop bubbles in the transmission fluid by add in more steering pump fluid of 5 speed forward so add in Lucas ZDDP Additive and/or detergent and Plus try the transmission 70W80 oil pump low volume and oil cooler. There oil cooler Misnomer brings the fluid cooler radiator that comes with transmission cooling oil sensor also named heat sensors for trans.fluid.

Every diehard Volkswagen guys I know all say to leave them 100% stock for best reliability, the one guy I know who works on them for a living says to leave it the way it came out of the factory if you want it to be dependable but if you change anything even something as small as the air filter, you throw the reliability right out the window, vw stuff is really cool but they are very finicky engines

Thank you so much

You have low compression ratio and how to measure it with this, in here, compression test gauge PSI in the spark plug hole and cylinder gives a reading. Same time, please, crank it. How much PSI in the compressor per engine cylinder do you have?

nice video. thanks.

thanks !

What about replacing the decklids with those from a Vert (since they're louvered)?

Maybe put a dry sump system in there with a 5-7 quart oil tank and it'll never overheat with all the stock parts. No extra oil cooler to block airflow. IDK if you could put a dry sump system on a Beetle engine.

On a 67 beetle I am trying to get running right the carb is new from a different mechanic. The main jet and air screw does not seem to lean out as it should..sootey.plugs of course..compression is 120..on all cylinders..and changed over to electronic ign..going up on throttle is sluggish too.tks 👍

Get a vented lid or stand off hinges or both... It helps more then most things he mentioned