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As a current fashion design student, I hate how we’re presented with the industry with “that’s just how it is.” They teach us its a problem overproducing and being unsustainable, but then in the same breath tell us we should be making a collection a week. Schools need to realize they should be teaching new students to be able to change the industry, not just fit into it and nothing happen. They complain that trends that used to last for years are now micro trends, while at the same time telling us to design exclusively for the year and season.

This breaks my heart, I originally went to university for fashion design, was told by my professor the day before we couldn’t change classes that I was “too soft hearted to handle the pressure of the industry” I’ve been pattering and designing alternative fashion since I was nine, I didn’t want to stop making things, so I switched to art; and now I’m given more lenience to create clothing in a space that wasn’t even intended for it. Honestly I’ve probably learned more too, I hope people who have a passion for making things still reach out to do so, even if in spite of an industry that’s killing it’s own designers

I love that you are bring up this ultimate topic of sustainability… fashion has become a black hole 🕳️ vortex for everyone but especially the designers and the planet. Let alone the the manufacturers…It’s all just too much, too fast to even appreciate the wonder of the clothes produced each season… then fast fashion copies it and that’s where all the real environmental & psychological damage is done! Time to say enough: 2 collections per year is absolutely all we need!! ❤️🤩

it’s a destruction of their own making. these big companies drove this toxic consumer habit of wanting something new every moment that they’re now tripping on their own heels trying to keep up with the very problem they themselves started 😂

All the time fashionheads critique is “we’ve seen this before 😐🙄” or “this is just like last season, how boring.” We are part of the problem 😂😂😂

oh boy I’ve got things to say. I work as a designer in the biggest shoes company in Brazil, literally the biggest, in income and also in options for the buyers. We as a team, do the normal calendar for the biggest collections, but in top of that, there are other collections that we are making in between. not going in details here but the point is: WE MAKE A COLLECTION EVERY MONTH. every single month there’s a new trend, a new color, a new (really?) way of making the shoe. it’s impressive how the market works, because the sells are happening, but the cost in mental health for literally every designer in this company it’s EXPENSIVE. no one is doing alright here, but we just keep on going to the next collection!

You know what's confusing to me about fashion is that they display a lot of the clothes you can't even wear on a daily basis or an event occasions like a parties. Isn't the objection suppose to be showcasing what clothes are going to be available in stores? If not wouldn't it be a tremendous waste of materials?

from a stylist's persective, it would be a challenge but so creatively rewarding to just show once per year. the layering opportunities would be endless 🎉

I love the latest Ralph Lauren collection because it's just beautiful clothes. Of course, it's an established label that doesn't need to prove anything, but I still think it could be a role model because at the end of the day, we just want beautiful clothes. I think when you look at the collections today, they do feel like the designers have suffered to make them so it's much more fun to look at vintage fashion shows. I'm not sure if the designers can change the system that's putting so much pressure on their creativity, but it needs to be changed.

Being a designer, making a collection is extremely hard, i couldn’t imagine 5 in a year for men and women

I went into this kinda wary bc of the assumption you'd just be another KZfaqr shitting on fashion without any knowledge of how the industry works, but instead I got a comprehensive look of how flawed the industry is especially for newcomers, from someone who clearly has both knowledge, sympathy, and passion

real og fashion designer here; we as a collective presented a collection wasting 0 extra liters of waters for our mostly hand-sewn runway and it's true. there is designers just using blender plugins and sending it to their manufacturers and then there is artisanal artist similar to MMM still out there! if you dont believe me then that is totally fine with me.

no clue why I was recommended your channel. i know nothing about fashion. you are hilarious and extremely entertaining and I will absolutely be watching more.

We're not waiting for every musician to drop a new album 4 times a year, not even every years, not even every 3 years...! Creation needs TIME! Thank you Bliss for your work. But for you, we are waiting for a drop every week ;)

I’m a physics student, I have zero connection to the fashion industry. But I whole heartedly agree. Ever since I watched The Devil Wears Prada, when I was about 15-ish, I’ve had a great appreciation for the fashion industry. Fashion can be extravagant without losing form, style, class, etc. And there’s also nothing wrong with designers having a core style or spirit, and experimenting and/or refining it. Fashion is meant to be worn, so the designers out there making stuff people wouldn’t be caught dead in, just to be unique and quirky is nuts. I mean look at Lagerfield, his style is iconic, but its also defined and whilst his work can easily be told apart from each other, you can tell its his for a simple reason, he sticks to a core style.

You're preaching to the choir on this one, I love when designers like Thebe Magugu go at their own pace and time frame it just shows more care and quality is taken into consideration especially from a creative stand point breaks are necessary in order to keep going

I just finished a coat which took me nine months between conception, design, sewing and embellishments. And I didn't have to design the textiles. (I use vintage and second-hand textiles.) .. Art Takes Time!

I love you bliss, with all my heart. I’m soo very confused myself if or not to continue as a fashion designer. I have always loved fashion, when I was on outsider. Getting into this industry, gave me a lot of perspective, i came to the understanding of how demanding and sadly toxic the industry is for someone who makes clothes for the love of CLOTHES

Thanks Bliss for providing an assurence to the young fashion designing students like me, who hates this systems of new collection every 3 months! Artistry in any medium needs time for sure! The more time given, the more refined will be the outcome!

I would be all for this, I work as a hairstylist in the fashion industry and it would give us so much more time to think about and prep some really gorgeous looks if we weren’t having to do it every 3 months

I was just thinking of this, and not just in fashion. Our modern world is forcing to produce and consume at break neck burnnout speed.... We're not appreciating anything... Speaking as a tired prints pattern designer.

first time viewing your channel, and i'm a complete non-fashion person - love your clear analysis of how corporates dictate the speed and scope of the world we live in to cover up their lack of original thoughts and then both drowns out new voices and ideas, and impoverishes the world we all live in. impressive stuff.

ngl this is part of why I’m now focusing on illustration in school rather than fashion. the pace was too fast, the rules too unclear, and the pressure unnecessarily high. illustration isn’t easy either but overall it’s a much friendlier environment and this way I get to explore fashion in my own time outside of school

fashion as an industry does seem to move at a pace, and produce a volume of work, that no one can deal with. i once worked in the same building as a fashion brand and no one ever looked happy running up and down the stairs with samples. I could happily deal with one show a year from Rick Owens.

Bliss is one of the best fashion critics or vloggers on KZfaq. You can tell he loves fashion, not because it's trendy, but from a design and craftsmanship level.

I wish there were more brands focusing on beauty, I don’t like the gimmicks but I can’t ignore there are good stufff today

*Fashion Designers Aren’t Designing Anymore* I 100% agree with that - I can even tell you why - big data, they are increasingly driven by buying trends Buying trends are starting to LEAD the fashion designers rather than the designer lead fashion. Weirdly enough King Charles, when he was Prince Charles, was talking about this with the people who designed his lifetime collection called " the Modern Artisan". They included draw string trousers cos the buying trends demanded it, he hated its inclusion. EDIT >>> You probably mean a different thing - I mean quite literally. Data says "people want blue pockets, do something with blue pockets NOW"

There’s just too much fashion happening. Even the shows feel to be about spectacle and hype, and not design. There’s so much clutter that none of it feels special. I prefer to look away and focus more on style than fashion.

I am not big in to fashion, but that explains a lot why I see so much of weird designs, when there is nothing new to discover anymore and pressure is real.

as a person who exclusively wears hoodies, leggings, sweatshirts, and sweatpants, high fashion designs look... alien to me. Like I can't imagine an actual human being wearing these incomprehensible art pieces for more than 15 minutes at a time. Are they actually for wearing??

Excellent topic Bliss Foster it has gotten crazier through the decades! I think it was around the late 80's when Moschino as a brand put out an advertising that was a female vampire with STOP THE FASHION SYSTEM wording. Its a monster created by clothing manufacturers who wants us all to shop for new things constantly.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="570">9:30</a> god damn Bliss thank god you said this. I’ve been going insane pondering why tf do brands not go with this mindset when producing collections.(money obv) there’s too much i 10000% percent believe the whole industry would run better this way

Just one thing I found interesting in what you said was about games having shoestring budgets budgets have increased for development, whilst also games being increase from 60$ to 80$ now, the cost of distribution has also lowered with such small levels of physical media being needed to be produced. I feel like the game industry is in a similar situation to fashion as in corporate sides pushing for overwhelming success no matter what. And I feel like one issue fashion and games as a medium are running into is over scoping. Every publishing studio wants a massive multi billion $ game with player retention, but there aren't enough people to consume the actual product. Especially with the directions of live service games essentially turning into a job in it's self. So many people won't play other games due to sunk cost falecy. In the end art will always been destroyed by the attachment of commercial viability, as it's value emotionally is striped for capital gains.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="576">9:36</a> yes!!!! I've been saying that for a minute now!!! Release a collection when the designer feels like it!! Screw the fashion calendar!!!

Designing new embellishment techniques takes time too! It could take a year just to troubleshoot a new concept before it's ready to wear.

The Fashion Industry could be replicated by Toddlers pointing at random objects and telling people to wear them like clothes

Now I understand why I lost interest in producing fashion and went back to painting 🖌️🎨 Art rules. Fashion is in the 🌑 Thanks Bliss brilliant as always.🎉

OMG YES!! Your film director analogy ( @<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="569">9:29</a>) was SPOT ON!! You're 100% right that designers should show once yearly or once every 3 years! I personally think Haute Couture should should only show once a year or once every 18 months!

Yeah kinda feels list fast fashion principles have trickled up somehow. I would love to see fully designer-determined schedules become the norm, like just a couple times a week someone goes "hey a new line from so-and-so just dropped!" I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on what the landscape would look like if fashion week were digital or nonexistent. As someone who has never attended in person, handling releases digitally in the early pandemic made no difference to me and if anything it was a nice change of pace.

Game dev here. The problem in games is not the price point not going up with inflation, it's rich executives hogging all the profit. Most AAA studios have games riddle with microtransactions that bring in a lot of money at the cost of focusing on quality. Game devs consistently get fired by the masses from greedy studios even when profits are high. It's horrible. Game development sorely needs unionization.

Really the best fashion channel hands down.

I'm studying fashion arts and design at college rn; one of my classes is all about sustainable fashion, and my teacher has worked in this field and is really passionate on the topic. I'd say that out of all my classes, we're always being encouraged in this class in particular about how we can change the fashion industry as we enter the workforce and make it more sustainable, and I'm just sitting there like 👁👄👁 bro...I'm not trynna be the next Chanel or St. Laurent, I just wanna learn how to design costumes for stage productions and start my own small business designing people's custom commissions ^_^"

Thanks for talking about beauty in fashion! I had commented a few months ago about that, so I'm glad that you indirectly addressed it :)

I have 0 knowledge of fashion. my wardrobe is 'grabs my boyfriends sweats and hoodie' (sometimes I steal my dads stuff too) I haven't bought clothes for myself in like 6 years. except shoes bc mine broke. this video is great. u presented ur thoughts super clearly and even someone like me understood the issue and what your saying. and you did that in 15 mins? thats cool

Fun fact, I learned that fashion shows used to be trade show events. Thanks for the great content.

Thanks for including the last Dries show in the background, would love to see a video on just him :)

Well put. Haven’t commented on much lately, but thought I would drop by and say hi. I would think that it would make for intense burnout for smaller creators. Never being able to catch up with the big players and after catching the eye of the media, having to outdo themselves each season. At that point it would seem to be never ending frustration, dealing with their relevancy, holding themselves each time to a higher standard. I will sometimes look for the small designers that have seemingly disappeared into the ether over time. Perhaps they were absorbed into a bigger house. I would like to think some hadn’t given up. Maybe they went on to design for costume in film.

The algorithm has blessed you with outsiders. Greetings. Anyway, as a layman, this seems to be why there was that period of time where it felt like there was literally a dozen fashion events wherein a designer sent just a nude or topless model down the runway. Like "ok I need to generate some hype and I have approximately 11 minutes to imagine and create this look. What are my options. I've got it."

You are absolutely right. People are so blind to trends and they do no know a shit about fashion. Finally someone honest.

Something ill point out from a outsiders perspective. I inspect hospital projects for a living. In architecture and industrial design the same thing is happening. Not to the degree of the relentless amount of fashion weeks, but its happening. My theory is that the relentless demand for making more money than the last quarter (accelerationism) has destroyed all nuance and intricacy of everything. You look at the world now and its an artificial shell of its former self. Everything is just that... a shell. Just a coat of paint masking the unbelievable pain we are causing ourselves and nature respectively. I cant predict the future, however i know that there is going to be a monumental change in how humans perceive reality. We have to. The more i live the more crazy i think I am saying such apocalyptic things, but we are playing with powers not fully understood and we will face extinction if balance is not flooded into our collective conscious. This is a war against ourselves and our destructive habits. good luck everyone. Such a shame we are blessed yet we wont use our blessings. NAY they TAUGHT US NOT TO USE THEM. I weep for humanity. Edit: If the mess of words was too much. What im saying is that the same problem the fashion industry has, is the same problem the world has.

Video games are stuck at a price point because they include less and less content in the core game, and make you buy DLCs instead (which is probably costing more than just adjusting for inflation).

And I still can’t afford any of it.

Picks up margarita glass "It's Fashion Week o'clock somewhere." 🍹

just stretch out releases and make room for everyone to shine as there is more room in between shows for other great designers. helps ideas grow, invites innovation, makes the whole bubble a bit more sustainable

Coincidently you released this at almost the exact time Phoebe Philo dropped her long awaited label. I'm curious to see what type of frequency she adopts when releasing new collections, I did read that the next one will follow in Spring of 24' so I can only assume it will be two a year ?

I kinda see the number of collections showed and produced in a year as one complete body of work of the designer and their businesses. It's a matter of timing when and where to release, hence many seasons, collections, and shows. It's overwhelming to complete the whole set for designers. Maybe designers should dare to be more strategic when doing their collection, working on pieces that immune to the fast trend cycle, giving them time to create the next great pieces responsibly.

My absolute favourite designer is McQueen. His clothing is always unique and it’s absolutely beautiful. It’s really easy to recognize his style once you’ve seen a couple of pieces. He’s definitely one of the designers I look up to most. If I ever get the chance to properly design my own clothes (as in, money-wise. Fabric is really expensive), one of my first pieces would definitely be a McQueen piece. Plus they’re wearable! As in, an average person can show up (circumstances of course) and wear his pieces

Then again some brands literally just repeat a lot of their work and people call it repetitive…Obviously if you want them to show 5 times a year there is not much roon to change

My dad did the electronics and mechanical side for Miss Universe Australia Maria Thattil's dress. And the designer Yeung nearly got sued for copyright for the mechanism to make the dress rotate despite it being different. Sad to see that it broke when the dress was being put on but if that doesn't say anything about the industry then I don't know what will.

Oh how I miss the bygone era of simple, beautiful, and artistically satisfying runway shows of the mid 90s to the mid 00s. Such a golden era.

give blessings to the algorithm for bringing me into a topic outside of my bubble that I actually enjoyed, and thank you for amking sush a fine video

This is why i didn’t want to go to fashion school but i didn’t know how to explain it. Thank you.

It's good when the algorithm throws in something like this. I have absolutely zero interest in what this person is passionate about but it's good to see.

I quit the industry almost a decade ago. The entire fashion machine was unsustainable, exclusionary and exploitative back then. It's only gotten worse since. I occasionally keep an eye on it and go "thank god I got out when I did". Going to art school made me hate art. And took years to be able heal from it and feel inspired again. Being a textile and fashion designer made me totally opt out of clothes shopping beyond the absolutely necessary... Or want to style clothing anymore, even though that was a huge passion for me as a teen... The whole experience was traumatic - to the point I had a panic attack the last time I saw a picture of the (deeply hypocritical) head of the design school I went to at an unrelated social enterprise presentation for my new career path. They were telling us that design was meant to make lives better... While quoting the guy who presided over trying to force me to quit uni because my head of dept didn't want to do extra paperwork to keep my disabled self safe in the studio... The creative industries as a whole are guilty of a helluva a lot of awful behaviour. But, having worked across multiple disciplines over the last decade. Fashion is one of the worst... Prime example: they literally design more clothes for dogs than disabled folk. And it's battering yourself against a brick wall trying to change it from within right now. Literally nothing has been learned over the last decade - the same issues we were fighting against then are still there now. But eventually it will fully eat itself like the Ouroboros it is, as you said. One of the few things I really found useful about art school was that our lecturer 110% wanted to marry Malcolm Gladwell. And we had to overanalyze "The Tipping Point" and other texts... As a result, it's easy to spot cultural movements early. We are close to, if not already at, the point where fashion cannot go on as it has been. We're at the summit and soon it's going to be a steep slide down into a new wave... And it will be a steep learning curve for those not already planning for it... Overconsumption and the "Shienpocalypse" is a symptom of peak capitalism-driven, profit first, fashion. I'm looking forward to what sustainable, forward thinking fashion in an industry that prizes fair work for fair pay looks like. I'm manifesting the f* outta that future.

Milan is west of Paris... Thank you for letting me be a know it all

The curse on art is capitalist realism, or whatever you wanna call this. It’s a parasitic demonic hyperobject. And tbh the problem might be trying to accumulate surplus at all, in any economic form. (How’s that for sounding like a crazy person? *sigh*) I love the ouroboros, and this bit was made for me. Thanks. More and more though it’s been signifying to me that dichotomy/oppositionalism, etc. are just a freaky trap. Like a finger trap, you know those things? (I swear this comment is about fashion. No, it is!)

Im a game developer that isn't really into high fashion but Im fascinated on learning more about how other industries work. For me fashion seems a bit like the art world, it's either people that complain about how ridiculous, unaffordable and unwearable designer clothes are and how fast fashion is killing the planet or people that live and die for fashion that they seem to live in an alternative reality that the commoners "just don't get". Personally I see a lot of artistry in the making of clothes but I really wonder how many more designers, brands, collections, seasons, fashion shows,etc do we really need in a world where sustainability should really be the priority.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="700">11:40</a> Well said. I'm not really into fashion, but I do agree with your sentiment. Everything has to be better, faster, more this and that, etc. and at the same time, while some people are "over inventing" stuff, others are afraid to break with an established formular. Like Hollywood movies only relying on big names and actors but not being able to bring something fresh to the table.

i think this phenomenon is affecting most creative fields and just society in general. as the working class dissappears, everyone is scrambling to *anything* to nab some scrap of virality in hopes that they can escape the widening black hole at the bottom of society. but it just gets harder and harder to stand out in a meaningful way, and now we have ai in the mix spitting out shit that humans cant even conceive of at a pace that not even the brightest and most feverish creatives can keep up with.

Hmmm Chanel, which is an insane powerhouse and produces wayyyyyyyy too much… does have Looms that get used in studio… they also purchased specialty/family studios that produce their tweed, lace, (Lesage), etc. Also, folks like Fear of God, do their own thing instead of every season. I appreciate that he takes his time. Rick also doesn’t do the 12 collections per year thing either. He’s also on his own schedule. Even Marc Jacob’s has pulled the breaks on his insane production (due to switching management and some financial hiccups ). I just wish it was all more sustainable and not producing more trash.

I’m so glad someone’s saying shit about this I thought I was going crazy bc I was into the high fashion scene when I was younger then recently got into it again and I’m not gonna act like nothing great hasn’t hit the catwalk in 20 years but I will say it’s much harder to find and the pieces to hit mainstream attention usually just do because everyone has agreed it looks stupid as shit it’s literally the same as watching KZfaq and other internet content turn into the clickbait hellhole it is now people making ‘art’ to get more eyes not to actually make something with real value

I don't know why youtube kept suggesting this to me, I have no interest in fashion and know nothing about it but I just gave in and checked it out. I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about but you're probably doing a good job so keep it up.

saying that that order of cities (NY, L, M, P) is "east to west" is a prime example of "tell me that you are american without telling me you're american" lol

love you , you do such a great job. i wish there was more of you in fashion

My new favourite for SS24 are FIT MFA for exploring in shapes and surface in a very stupendous way, Cecilie Bahnsen for exploring new fabulous jacquard surface, BruceGlen for using extravagant colors and Aknvas for fabric and trims manipulation...there are more but right now I can only recall them.

the way i live for this channel!!

Solid content and informed from it. Thank you.

Now I don't feel so bad because I continue to draw Christian Dior princess dresses.

Well, those were the analog days. It took longer to develop the film, edit it and distribute it all on foot. Now they do it all electronically and even before then it was turning into something else towards the end of the eighties. Combined with the digital age things are shared much faster. Most things on run ways aren't even really something you can imagine people walking around in. Its ridiculous.

Not even arguing that the industry should pivot more towards beauty or get less artistically arcane, just a plea for some sanity in sustainable expectations.

Your passion is so infectious

Fashion is speeding up because everything is speeding up.... always love your reviews

i think chopova is doing amazing too. they're relatively new in this industry but from the collections so far... i'm obsessed with their works. same goes with simone rocha!

Can you talk about new middle eastern designers and brand & how the Dubai FW is doing? Love your work :)

With your style it's fashion week every day of the year. Mans dripped out of this world 😳

Such a good message!

… ngl half the reason I liked the vid is because your interior decor is on point, good job man

I think it should be more like the music industry where an artist will drop an album every now and then, some artists take years, others drop very often, they just release when they have made something special that they deem finished.

On another note, that red couch in the background is stunning.

Damn Great video as always . Turned into Werner Herzog at the end there. Love it

Hello? It's 2023. We're literally living in the future. The scifi arc of the fashion industry was supposed to have begun like 5 years ago. We aren't we all prancing around in plastic garbage with integtated A like we're in The 5th Element or Blade Runner. This is bs. Why don't my shoes lace themselves or why doesn't my shirt change color on demand? Why do I still gotta manually roll up my sleeves like a pleb and where is the neck illuminating collars? Why aren't we wearing robes with a print of our own bone x-ray? Why isn't my coat acid and flame resistant and also protect against lasers? Why isn't every garment bulletproof???????? Ridiculous

The barriers to entry seem to be increasing at hyper speed. This is likely muffling maximum creativity despite the economic environment that the treadmill the big houses can drive creates. The default back to the manic pace is really surprising considering all of the reflective discourse at the beginning of the pandemic.

As a graduate in fashion design I presented this same question as to why we are constantly rushed into making a complete collection every 3 months. Everyone told me that it’s just how it is. The solution is that the consumers need to slow down and turn the industry into “slow fashion” instead of fast fashion. Just like an iPad kid, The consumer constantly want more of it and fast. What we want as a designer is to have enough time to present a collection that is meaningful and that has the best quality possible. Not just the trendy stuff.

i need to share this everywhere

Yes. Thank you. I refuse to call myself a fashion designer despite being a costumer and technical writer.😊

Honestly would love to see the shot on the thumbnail become fashionable, now thats making a statement

Hey those snakes, correct me if I'm wrong but it reminds me of the ancient symbol of the ouroboros

Everything he said is facts ❤

I noticed. What happened to the people who were in Project Runway, that show often amazed me.