Same here!!!

Same here.

Same friend

This happened to me too. lol

Me too! I'm making a nighttime desk for my bed so I can be productive before going to sleep. I always seem to have my best ideas while laying in bed.

I have a Santa Fe style home with dark stained pine vigas that I am going to cover with PVC pipe and have started the process of experimenting with finish and paint. Can you please discuss if there are other paints you would consider for exterior application. Any special strategy you would apply to the cut ends in order to get the appropriate look?

So it really does work?👍 I'm wanting to try this.

@@jeffharper7579 Yeah it worked great for me. It even sorta weirdly feels like wood. I'd just recommend not doing it while sitting in the sun, as even with the retardant it will still dry too fast.

Thanks👍. I'm using pvc as my down spout and think it would look great stained to look like wood plus use some at my goldfish pond. Will try it👍

give your contact

How did your pvc bow turn out? That sounds really cool!

How did it come out? I have two 4"x8' pieces to do

Did it work with grey pvc ?

@@coreybennewies1866 Have not tried yet, it will be an after-exams project after all, likely to be done in August :-D

Both Hobby Lobby and Micheal’s should have the acrylic paint that you need. I usually shop online at Jerrys: www.jerrysartarama.com or Blick's: www.dickblick.com

Sense I've never done what you are wanting to do I can only give general advise. I would use a semi gloss polyurethane with UV protection. I would look up more information about this on the internet because of the dynamic temperature changes in a car.

I've never used this for exterior work, but my friends that do professional exterior mural projects use Golden's MSA Varnish with UV protection.

I've never done this for exterior use. Outside conditions can get pretty rough. I would experiment with exterior polyurethane stains, or Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastic.

The only paint that might hold up to the demands of an Irish whistles would be a baked-on auto paint, so acrylic paint will wear off eventually.

If you add an exterior UV clear-coat on top it should hold up for at least a year, as long as you don't scrape it.

Krylon makes an excellent clear coat as does a couple of other offerings on the market, but no matter which product you use Wait for at least three or four days before you apply anything else over the top of the current finish - this is so you don't have a 'chemical reaction' between the 'base coat' and the new 'top coat' because of any stronger chemicals possibly being in the clear coat. You should have made a test piece to practice on when you apply the clear coat. The first coat should consist of two light, but wet passes - not dry. This is ONE coat BTW. Regardless of what the directions state re waiting for it to cure, give it two or three times more than that before you apply another two light/wet passes and and then if you like what you see leave it as is. Otherwise come back the next day and give it two to three medium wet passes to finish the job. I've used Krylon for over forty years and have never had any problems with it lifting or 'delaminating' from the part I sprayed it on, scratching yes, or fading if left outside in the California Sun is a 'given', but had repainted a childs metal 'push car' by Red Wagon about eight yrs. ago and it still looks relatively new - enough so where I don't see any need to repaint it, and I am one 'picky' person. Good luck with your project - OH YES (!) IF you get a run or two WAIT until the next day and then very lightly sand the it down with 320 sand paper even with the coat you just applied and NO deeper After wiping the surface clean with a damp cloth (water) dry it with a micro cloth or a cotton tee shirt then go back over everything with two or three medium/wet passes and then leave it alone, because you're done.

White PVC is best

I'll need more information. Is the pipe indoors or outside in the weather? Why is the paint pealing? is it near heat, water, ice.

@@PropMonkeyStudio Thank you for the answer, my friend! I usually make musical instruments and, sometimes, bows. On the flutes, for example, the paint peels off on the places where there is the most contact with the skin, like the tone holes and labium. On the bows, usually the coating peels off when there is some kind of friction or small bumps, like the extremities of the limbs, the handle and, of course, where the arrow passes but I assume it is impossible to stop that extreme friction from peeling the coating off. I tried oil and acrylic paint. Again, thank you so much much for your kindness!

For outdoor use you're going to need something pretty durable, so my first thought is to use real oak wood dowels (used in closets). For a deck where folks are going to lean on them, they wood be the strongest. With PVC pipe, for outdoor use, you'll have a lot of scratches showing the white plastic. I hope that helps! :-)

@@PropMonkeyStudio I am wondering if they can kind of go the opposite way and use BLACK PVC piping and then go a bit lighter and if it scratches the scratches would be black. Also there is a company out in California Nova Color in Culver City that makes a matte sealer for Acrylics (I have used on exterior murals) that holds up exceedingly well.

@@gregghierholzer That could work, but I think the big problem is support. These are going to be used for 1.5" deck railing, and folks will be putting weight on them. This is why I suggested real wood. We have 1.5" wood stair railing at the studio, and it works great for support.

Hi Willow, I have done the dark wipe back wash on projects when the detail depth isn't an issue, and it works great. The reason I did it in this order is that the first coat and wipe back of acrylic will fill in a lot of the finer grains, so in order to get greater detail in the grain texture the darker color needs to go down first. This is why I went dark then light. I also get better control over the final wood color if I don't have to do a dark acrylic wash over my wood color. I hope this makes sense.

Interesting! It sounds as if the one technique provides finer detail under closer inspection, whereas the other technique may be preferable for something like set design where less detail, but higher contrast may be prescribed

All paints will break down when outside, so add a UV blocking clear coat on top of the finish.

I don't think it would be too deep, but it will make it more graphic. The grains will pop more.

I've never worked on carbon fiber before, but I think it should work. Something to think about; with a prosthetic leg there will be a lot of rubbing on certain parts where cloth meats leg. It might be good to seal the finish with a hard clear coat.

@@PropMonkeyStudio sounds very useful... thanks man 👍

@@pegleg7621 That sounds amazing!

It should, but I suspect you'll have to do a lot of sanding to get rid of any injection mold vents or seams on the pvc joints.

You should be able to, as long as you use a paint that will stick to Polypropylene. You'll have to do a little research on what paint to use.

No, the pipe is still very strong after sanding.

@@PropMonkeyStudio good! I'll try this with my PVC bows. What should I apply afterwords for a semi gloss that also protects the paint?

@@skylerslack12 I'm sure there are many clear coats that will work, but if it needs to be somewhat flexible (being for PVC bows) I would use liquin original. Brush it on thin and it should dry in 24hrs.

I get my supplies from: www.jerrysartarama.com, or www.dickblick.com • Liquitex Soft Body Acrylics • Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder

No, I haven't, but if I was doing an Anime prop (more melodramatic) I would use a rasp file.

PVC DUST Is dangerous if exhaled. Make sure to use mask. .........