Concerned about the methodology here... There is a huge difference between Tensile Strength and Flexural Strength, and this test (which is purely flexural) is kind of a worse-case scenario for the orientation of the layers and the direction of force, mechanically speaking. I'll ramble a bit but don't want one wall of text so... If I could recommend one improvement it would be to print two eyelets in your test pieces and do a Pull Test in a similar orientation to your scale. This would be testing Tensile strength instead of Flexural, and I suspect you'd find the overall tensile strength greatly improved over the default resin. When working with material composites, orientation is everything. To put into other terms: imagine a wet rope gets frozen all the way through. The newly rigid rope might, under the right circumstances, break if set parallel to the ground and force is applied to one end, as it's being attacked in it's thinnest/weakest dimension. If, however, the frozen rope was used to lift a load (as a rope realistically might be asked to do), failures in the ice may be more numerous, but they should be overall smaller, more evenly dispersed, and overall less impactful on the rope itself or it's ability to lift the attached load.

I liked the print head bouncing in sync with the beat of the music 😁

Please wear a respirator when working with glass fibre, especially when you have frayed edges and you are making cuts.

CNC Kitchen should repeat this. We need multi site validation of results. Also the standardized test machine with replicates and standard deviation appeal to my inner scientist

Maybe it would also be good to test the orientation of the fiber weave as well? Alternate the layup 45° each layer perhaps? Great work as always!

We add 10% milled 1/64" glass fibers to the resin by weight, it works great.

Great video. I actually use reinforced fibers a lot, we build bicycle frame, velomobiles (sometimes called "banana bike") and special bicycle components. We use glass, carbon and kevlar for this. Strength depends on the type,thickness and weave of the material but even more important are the resin/fiber ratio and how compact the end result is. Carbon is way stiffer than glass and kevlar is almost like a rubber band. Kevlar is mostly used in combination with carbon to prevent it from shearing apart on impact. When using fibers, we always apply pressure to the end product either mechanically (by pressing the resin/fiber product in a 2-part mold), using vacuum (by placing the resin/fiber product in a bag and vacuuming all the air out or by applying pneumatic pressure (the product is made in a mold and the core is a balloon that is blown up to a few Bars of pressure). In this way the weave is pressed together and the layers are pressed on top of, partly into, each other. For us a 70% fiber ratio works best, so the product contains about 30% resin, but sometimes we make carbon sheets of 8-10mm thick that contain even more fiber. If you tap on that material with a hammer it sounds like a ceramic tile and it is very hard (does not flex at all) whereas for most things (like a bicycle frame, a steering bar or a front fork) you do want some flex. The type of resin is also very important. Some resins are very brittle whereas other resins have more flex. A brittle resin with too few fiber content will result in the resin cracking up and the fibers shifting with tears and cracks in the fibers as a result. A more tenacious resin with a carbon/kevlar mix will end up like spring steel; hard to break, very flexible and very durable - this is even used as spring leaves by some companies. I like to see what happens when you use short cut up fibers as suggested by another user too. We use 0.1 - 0.3mm glass and carbon fibers as fillers and those are mostly used in combination with glass bubbles and cotton fiber. The carbon or glass will add strength, the glass bubbles make it flow more easy and the cotton fiber make it thixotropic.Cotton is not suitable for 3D resin printing but mixing small fibers or glass bubbles is something that could be worth a try

Truly, a great idea! And definitely something to keep an eye on. Below I gave you some suggestions, based on my composites experience: I think there were two main possible problems: 1.) Compatibility between the UV-resin and the glass fibres might be very poor. You would need to check the compatibility between the applied glass fibre silane-sizing and your matrix material. Sizing compositions are usually proprietary, so this is really hard to find out. I suspect that most UV-resins cure by radical mechanism, so a vinylsilane or methacrylsilane (or even Volan cloth) might work best. If, for example the fabric had an aminosilane applied, there is a chance that it would not react with the UV-resin. 2.) Impregnation quality could be poor. We do not know if the resin has fully wetted the reinforcement. There might be large voids within the fibre bundles, since no pressure was applied to compact the reinforcement layer and push air out. Looks like it at 7:32. Usually the individual fibre-bundles should appear almost invisible when properly impregnated. Maybe your cleaning agent at 6:27 has soaked into the fibre-reinforced parts prior to curing, which could cause a lot of problems. 10:50 and 14:06 The main failure mode looked like debonding and delamination, rather than fibre fracture - which would strongly agree with my theory. Therefore, the potential of the fibre reinforcement was not even closely exhausted. A continuous fibre-reinforced part must be both stiffer and a lot stronger than pure resin (thats common knowledge). A well-engineered fibre-reinforced composite usually fails in catastrophic manner. Here, the roving-reinforced composite failed by gradual delamination/debonding

I think 3D printing a mold and just making an epoxy/glass part would be easier at this point. Very cool tests!

I really enjoy these videos Tom. 👍

Interesting application towards engineered composites. Generally fiber composites have a resin volume fraction of 30% or less, and you'll only see improved strength and stiffness if the raw fibers are themselves stiffer and stronger than the matrix (maybe why the random orientation drywall fibers failed)

Nice video! Another reason why the strenght of the reinforced samples is not very high could be the fact that the printing resins do not adhere to the glass fibers like epoxi or polyester resins do. To transfer the external load that is applied on the resin to the fiber, a chemical bond between resin and fiber is needed. A specific resin designed for fiber reinforcement could get better results.

Could you try unidirectional fiberglass strands knowing your bending load. Also could you try small chopped fiber just mixed into the resin?

Looove the editing! @3:15 printer disco? Yes please!

Great stuff! I have been using composites for years, combining with resin printers opens some very new directions!

I have thought of doing this for some time but I was thinking of mixing the separated fibers into the resin so the print would just run with no pauses. Would be interesting to see this if you can do it (may be messy?).

Great job Tom. I would recommend getting ahold of a Instron test machine to run a proper tensile and compression test.

Can't be the only one from the community asking for a collab with Stefan from CNCkitchen ✌️

I really like the blending background color. It gives such a nice and smooth contrast.

This was a great idea! I've not seen anyone else on KZfaq do this. Great video and I can see this technique gaining popularity. Thanks Tom.

Hm... on plastic (and filament) shredded fibers are often used. You could try those, but should be a similar result i guess. Great video 👍

I think the reason the more coarse weave works is that those layers have holes/gaps where the resin can connect between layers. With the glass fiber paper, you create a total break inbetween each resin layer. So you loose some of the effect of it being a composite material? So trying the paper again with holes or lines cut in would be very interesting.

Thank You for performing these experiments. Reinforcing resin prints is what is on my mind.

So cool to see someone try this! i always thought about this as i work with composites!

Fascinating. I would like to see a follow-up video where you test resin-fiber slurries. FormLabs' Rigid is a glass-fiber slurry resin from what I remember.

Great choice of bed-banging music, Tom!

Bruh this definitly deserves a thumbs up, I can see all the work you put into this

This is a fantastic direction for resin printing! Thank you for sharing!

Time to replicate CNCKitchen's test rig? Good concept, sketchy test results, I want to see a load curve. And I bet the fiber ones will go up sharper than pure resin ones.

lol loving the editing.... bouncing along with it :D

This is so interesting! I love the experiments you do, they're so good. Thank you!

Very nice, you clearly worked really hard

I'd be interested in seeing how loose fibers would work.

6:12 This is some good printing music xD

Would be interesting to see how these parts performed in tension etc, great video and fantastic concept, thanks!

Drop the beat! I LOVE how you selected and synced the beat to the thumping of the printer. Epic !!! :-)

Incredible video!

It almost seems like the eventual realization of this idea would be some sort of mixed-mode/media printing where the printer could insert sheets or strands of fiberglass from the side automatically during a print. Either way, super fascinating results and well played for showing your results even though they didn't match your hypothesis.

Tom, that's a genius idea! Imagine the ease of fabrication for home grade quads! Man, that's great! Thanks a lot!

Great video and a very interesting experiment!

How about chopped fibers mixed into the resin? Should remove the hastle of trying to insert fiber layers into the print and lead to more isotropic performance.

I would have loved to see a stretch-breaking test, rather then a "bending" stress test with the reinfoce parts! Shouldn`t the reinforced parts be able to endure much more of a stretch-stres so to say?

Better than any netflix documentary. Nice editing. Nice shots. Nice music sync. Deep and experementary infos. Really gread vid.

Great tests Tom! Awesome idea.

CNC kitchen has interred the chat

Glass fibre doesn’t have the exact or same strength as carbon fibre.

this was really interesting, havnt even thought of it before..nice

I was FRP inspector for years use the RTP1 book as a guidance and astm for pipeping will give you the right amount layers of material to have the desirable strength. Roll out the material first make sure that air is out for max strength with the same resin then 3d print on top of that. Do a tensile test, barcole test and a burn out to see how strong is your compositive. Like your show I do 3d print as a hobby. Thanks for your dedication.

Hardness, strength, toughness, brittleness, and ductility. All of these to consider for the material property needs of whatever you're making.

So I though you were going to add individual fibers to the resin (like a lung cancer powder). This is interesting too though!

Wow, this kind of videos about 3d printing is expected from CNC Kitchen and not from you, Tom. You actually did great !!!

Absolutely Brilliant Thomas, that was a super awesome video and such a clever concept. Thanks for sharing this.

Honestly, at this point I'd just invest in or make my own little cnc milling machine and just buy CF stock. This looks waaay to messy.

How were you able to plug the USB from the first try ? that is impossible!

Your best yet. Kudos

This was so awesome. I was wondering about safety. Good to know that you were keeping yourself safe. I was wondering about the glass fibers that are sometimes added to concrete.

Netflix: Are you still watching? Someone's son: 3:26 Edit: And the synced music is very high effort content creation, just noticed it!

I just look at resin printing. The gloves, the mess, the chemicals, and think no!

Very cool video :) If you want to experiment further it would be fun to see some results for UD (unidirectional) fibers. Having all fibers along the 0-axis should give you a much stronger part. I might have some laying around at my workshop if you need a small sample :)

Great idea and execution. Awesome vids:)

Very clever! I don't see an immediate application, but a nice option I'm sure will come in handy.

You really synced the resin stamp to the music.. OMG details.

Very well executed. I was wondering what would you think of just mixing short random strands in the resin tank? That what i mix with epoxy when i need to do a thicker boat repair

Thank you, very well explained

Tom this was a GREAT set of experiments! I know for this you used just a *generic* brittle resin, but if you take it further, I would love to see how much of a difference it makes with *tough* resins, such as Siraya Blu, or even a Blu/Tenacious mix.

Thanks for the video and tips !!

Awesom video and technic! This is pioneering!

your setup is awesome 😍

Wow, great video Tom!

Huh, thats a really interesting and counterintuitive outcome! Also, love the printer bouncing to the beat

Great video! Hopefully your hard work will save time & money for others.

Interesting that this works. I was thinking about how to do this too but did not have an idea on how to set this up. Another side effect might be, that the model sticks better to the base plate.

Great video bro! Thanks!

Seeing the printer paper reinforced part looking perfectly clear made me wonder; what would it look like if you used a 2D printer first? You could incorporate some really neat designs.

Very good video! I was asking my self the difference weight between each piece

Great video as always. I'm curious about the the weight difference between the normal part and the reinforced ones?

That why I love Thomas. That was awesome. One thing to try if you feel like it. In boat building they stack the glass fibers directly on top of each other with minimum resin between them so it ends up like a single fat glass fiber piece. Another thing they do is that they press the layers to push the air out of the glass fiber but I can’t think of a way to do it in the printer.

Wow that is game changing idea.

Extra groovy vid today Tom, hope to see you testing the salt baked fdm prints once you’ve got the time!

Another suggestion for chopped fibers within the resin! Awesome vid though!

so cool test..

Carbon fiber added to resin is the same as putting metal rebar to concrete. It's more durable and much stronger if applied correctly. Nicely done!

just today i used the SIRAYA Tech simple clear resin, what i like about it is that it's super thin so it flows easily and is easy to cleanup. also very fond of Phrozen water washable rapid resin. it kinda sucks to wash it with straight water but you can cut your alcohol with water big time so its more economical, and it prints pretty quick i was getting away with 5 or 6 second thick layers on my creality ld-002r

Really well done video, love the new style of content, and the LTT jokes here and there are a blast, great to see you making more videos again :)

What a great idea, you could build some amazing multilayer fibre parts with this method. Blending the resin into the fibre with a brush would also be worth doing. Isn't the strength here in the pull direction over all the others?

Tom, Great content as always. I would love to see the results doing it at 90 degrees. That might show how the fibers shine.

Move in right direction. Good idea, good work!

Pretty cool idea! One reason the wallpaper stuff was underperforming might be the coatings that are (not) applied to it. Fibers meant for strength in laminates usually are coated in one way or another to provide good adhesion with the intended resin system. You could quite easily imagine a setup that automates a process like this as well. Just keep the fabric on a roll, and cut and submerge a new layer every time.

Great job! 🤙

Thanks for sharing, Did you try flexible resins or mixed with normal ones?

Wow, the amount of time and work that this testing must have taken is amazing, thank you for the video! I'm not surprised by the results having studied composite materials quite a bit and I'd like to impart a bit of material science knowledge here. As you astutely point out, the issue here is the huge disparity in flexibility between the resin and the fibers and generally the way to fix this is to change the volume ratio of fiber to resin. For glass reinforced composite, this is typically never lower than 20% fiber and often much higher like 70% fiber, and getting 70% fiber with this method as your video shows would unfortunately be more time consuming than it's worth. The second factor is the resin used and since photopolymer resins (even Sirayatech's Blu resin) are far less tough than the two part curing resins used for fiberglass production, I don't know if you could ever really make a useful composite out of them. I think the fastest way to test this would be to just lay down many layers of fiber then pour the resin over it and compress it all in a clear container, then expose the whole thing to UV light all at once. Lastly, there is the concept of the void ratio (the volume of voids over the volume of bulk material minus the void volume). In this case, the overall void ratio would be pretty low but unfortunately, all of the voids would have been concentrated right at the boundary between the fibers and the rest of the resin which also reduces the strength significantly. Anyway I hope this is helpful and thanks again for putting so much work into improving the knowledge base of this hobby!

awesome music in this one tom!

Editing was on point

Great video.

OMGsh. How much were your fingers itching after this? Thanks for the awesome and informative video!

This is very interesting and something I've been wanting to try, except with a much lighter weave 0.75 oz. fiberglass cloth. I also wanted to try mixing a very fine powder such as aluminum oxide or ground glass in with the resin and forgo the cloth. My goal for the powder is to hopefully strengthen the resin for higher wear strength when making printed gears.

awesome video!

This is why I'm subscribed! Push the limits!

Cool Video Tom, I wonder if there is a way to try a Post tensioning bar style of system for resin prints. It would be difficult but could make for some really interesting results.

are you able to add metal powder to the resin? like in cold cast