Cool 👍, update on yr findings. If it is coreXY please do the speed zig zag diagonally and compare to horizontally. CoreXY only use 1 motor for diagonal movement.

Awesome!! Hope the results are what you are wanting :)

That’s a great idea. Especially for verifying your parts won’t be weak from not enough filament being extruded. That route would definitely help you hone in on a more exact rate.

For big project having multiple plates set is sooo nice. I used it recently when printing the P1P enclosure and it was a great help.

@ModBot I am using it now to print the stagetop game table and being able to lay out everything and get it all set for the project is so nice.

Haha agreed it does take a slightly crazy person and I am happy to do it.

Thank you Asger!!

I have really been enjoying mine. Will have a full video on it at some point

​@@ModBotArmy Nice to see the Merc as well! Was my first big step up to ender 5 +. Then I made a kinematic bed remix of the ratrig vcore 3 and finally added the vzbot gantry!

@@joseholguin436 seeing the mercury project I now really regret buying twotrees sapphire pro instead of an ender 5. Pretty much no community and everything except the toolhead is unmoddable.

@@igorordecha I have a buddy I’m going to NOT tell about the Mercury, because it will just cause him to be unhappy about his purchase last year.

You are doing 3D printing, if you want to do mass production create a mold instead. Unless you do one offs and only small batches which again is not mass production. You can´t really do mass production, not comparable to most other methods. Maybe it is your definition of mass production is you produce 1000 parts or so.

​@@sierraecho884Prusa would beg to differ

@@ThatOneStopSign Yes because they want to sell printers, not produce parts. No one really uses FDM printing for mass production for several reasons. Unless your definition of mass production is 200 psc. or something low like that. Believe me I am an automotive engineer and I do design parts for mass production.

Thank you NickNick!! We are doing awesome. Typing this from the couch with Erin and Jackson :)

Thank you for the support 😊

I am shocked that with all of the features they have they did not add that. Based on the replies I found on it they have it on their list but it doesnt seem like a priority.

@@ModBotArmyMe too. This is a really basic parameter.

You just have to click on the color swatch for the filament. So on the left side above the slicer settings there will be between 1-4 filaments listed (depending on your printer and if you are using an AMS). Click or double click on any of the small color squares and you can set any color :)

You should be able to use the CNC kitchen version. Just make your bed area smaller so that is would only cover a center square portion of the round bed and give yourself enough of a safe area from the edges :)

They say online that the rate is supposed to be ~35 to 38. So you'll want your end to be higher than that. The rest is really up to you. Start with whatever you're comfortable with. Just keep in mind that at some point the single-thickness wall is going to become unstable and you'll start getting artifacts just from its weight and the action of the new filament getting placed, so you might want to do it in segments. For example, start at 18 and go to 26. If it's still pretty much perfect, then do 26 to 34. Then 34 to 40.

wow ok I should've finished the video, that sucks such a vital settings like max volumetric flow rate is not a setting...

Yeah it looks like the devs dont find it quite as valuable which I find odd. You can still see the max volumetric flow in the preview window but not being able to set a cap is a bummer. I have a feeling they may end up adding it with time.

😅 Going to blame it on new dad brain ❤️. It’s an awesome slicer and both adds new features as well as ports other slicer features very quickly.

Ooooh the cute StePHan xD

Im getting 32mm3/s from a regular hf with abs and around 40 with the uhf. Abs at 260 degrees, so nothing outstanding i would say, especially since its a ceramic heater which you need to run a bit hotter anyway due to its thermistor location.

32mm3/s is pretty damn good. I have a feeling the hardest part with trying to hit those top speeds is cooling the part quick enough. Especially with overhangs.

@@ModBotArmy yeah, overhangs are always the bottleneck. I even installed twin berd air pumps on the super racer to keep up as fans are not enough, maybe a 4028 axial would be sufficient, but there is no space on a delta for axial fans. But increasing line width from 0,4 to 0,5 helps a lot

@@kilianlindlbauer8277 Chilled air from the AC up next ... xD

I hope that they do implement it. That being said finding you max flow rate is still valuable. Cura will let you check volumetric flow in your sliced file on the preview page so you can use it to verify you are not trying to output more than your hotend is capable of.

From what I've seen so far, I would say the number is indeed related to the filament (and in Orca Slicer, the setting is found under filament, not under machine), but I don't imagine that two different rolls of the same material (for example, PLA black and PLA white) will have a huge difference. You can probably get away with just doing it per TYPE of filament (1 setting for all PLA, a different setting for all PETG, etc).

At least for filament type. PLA is different from PETG for example. The max. flow of PLA can be almost double to PETG. You might have to tune it with different PLA filaments as well, but the difference should not be too hight. If your max flow rate is e.g. 30mm³/s for PLA I would choose 28 or 26 and call it a day.

No calculations required, it does all the work for you. "Step" is how much the amount changes each time there's a line. So, as an example, if you have it set to start at 8, with a step of 1, and you notice degradation after the 5th line (5 increases of 1), your degradation is at 13 mm³ so you'll want to set it to 12 mm³ in your slicer. If you start at 8, and have a step of 0.5, then the 10th line would be the same 13 mm³. But if you notice it looks great between line 9 and 10, then you can set it to 12.5 mm³ instead of 12. Another way to look at it: the space before the first line is the same number you set as the start. Each space after that goes up by your "step" setting. Counting the spaces between the lines, count by whatever your step is set to, only counting the "good" faces. With a step of 1, you would count 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. If your step is 0.5 you would count 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12. Whatever number you stop counting on, that's the number you input into the Max Volumetric Speed setting. No need for a calculator, just count them.

I run both a prime line and skirt on all of prints so I typically just leave it. The majority of the time it comes off on one of the two. If you are there and it is large you can always grab it but I rarely pull it off.

Because each filament flows differently. As for the different results. OrcaSlicer uses the thickest line width and layer height combination. So, different nozzle with change the flow rate as well.

It´s both. The hot end determines the heat output and the surface to the filament, so does the nozzle but the filament also plays a role in taking in that heat. You can heat PLA way easier since it get´s soft at around 60°C already but you will need much more temp to do the same with PETG. So it´s both parameters.

I did not Turtle from the ZeroG team did. I am not sure if they have been posted publicly but I would hop into the ZeroG Discord to check.

This is the modified EVA 2.4. It is made by the ZeroG team for the Mercury 1.1. The duct portion is called Petsfang.

@@ModBotArmy brilliant. Thank you! Love the channel!

Of course, you need to run a test for each type of filament. You then need to deal with the changes to due to temperature and the effect of different nozzles.

I ended up swapping it out for the spool holder on the voron trident. I didn’t like the weight of the spools on the top frame. Here is the link though to the one in this video: github.com/ZeroGDesign/UserMods/tree/main/Mercury_One/ZeroG/Spool_holder

@@ModBotArmy Thank you!

In theory they should be the same as known values should be consistent, ie filament diameter, nozzle diameter, line width, and layer height. If extrusion multiplier is tuned in and consistent then the maximum speed at which all of those remain the same can be found. Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer(formally known as SoftFever), SuperSlicer, and PrusaSlicer are all based on the same thing so there will probably be very little difference between them. Cura is the big outlier here, lets face it very few are going to pay for the subpar Simplify3D, at this time does not natively support setting max volumetric flow to automatically limit print speed. There is also the issue of most of the popular off the shelf printers are limited more in other ways and wont hit max flow on a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height. Start upping nozzle size and layer height and they may in fact get close to it. Ultimately if your slicer of choice does not use max flow to limit speed then you will just need to set those limits manually after some testing. The faster we print the more the little things matter to making a good looking and functional item.

@@abeardedbucket yeah I started to run into under extrusion with .8mm nozzle and big layers

In theory max volumetric flow should be max volumetric flow. I have used it in SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer/SoftFever and it has worked fine. As long as you dont have other things drastically changed like flow in one slicer over another there (should) not be an issue.

It´s just volume over time, it´s pretty basic for every slicer.

Yeah Revo is not a high flow hotend at all. Other than the abrasive nozzles not being available that is it’s biggest draw back. I am hoping a high flow heater core is released but if you are wanting high flow right now Revo is not the answer.

Depends a ton on filament. For example natural filament gets you around 15% more flow compared to colored one. Or formfutura volcano pla flows 50% better than regular formfutura pla. Also you shouldn't forget the revos construction. The nozzle itself is on pressed onto the heater with a spring and the thermistor position is different from the stock mk8 heater block. I would be curious how much of a temperature difference this will have. I would go that far to say 220 on a revo is around 200-205 on a v6/mk8. You might want to look at the rapido. I really like them, the only reason im not buying one for my v0 is that the hotend would overwhelm the psu. They come with a copper and a steel nozzle, so thats already 40 dollars in nozzles in the package. Of course a volcano gets you more flow per money spent, but i went against the volcano on my sapphire as i would loose build volume and the sp3 isn't exactly large

What filament ?

would love it too :)

Any scale that can do 0.01g is fine

amzn.to/3n3Wl8H will add to description 😊

One. Like told in the video

Each line was a full step with set at 0.5. It was also a bit confusing to me. I changed the value a few times and resliced but the 0.5 default is the easiest to follow since it aligns with the notches generated on the side of the print.

Thanks

Before. The volumentric speed depends on the temp. The higher the tempo the higher the flow. So I would argue you should find the ideal temp before and then do the volumetric calibration, maybe somebody else has a different opinion, I would like to hear it.

@@sierraecho884 thanks, that makes sense. And regarding Flow and PA Calibration, First Flow or First pa Calibration?

@@slomo4056 They all depend on temp too. The hotter the filament the lower the viscosity, so a more "runny" filament. Usually you don´t need to adjust your flow much, mine is always at 100%. As long as the extruder system is tuned properly it should be fine. You can fine tune that later maybe if you see some parts being underexztruded (this is most common because people calibrate wrong in 90% of all cases with the single wall method or some other nonsense). PA calibration I would do last because now you have your temp, your flow, your speeds all set and want to see what´s the "advanced" pressure changes do I need for the given speed, pressure, temp, material. Just don´t create a master thesis out of this, it does not have to be complicated to function well, heck I would argume most complicated stuff does not function well because you keen introducing more stuff that can go wrong. I would start with a temp tower, it prints rather slow and show how the filament behaves during x temp. You will see what your overhangs look like, if the filament droops and how well the layer bond is. For most filaments the band is rather large. For example I print my PLA at 220°C can I print it at 230°C ? Sure but cooling is more difficult and overhamngs droop al little more. Can I print it at 210°C ? Yeah I can but the layer bond gets weaker. You will have tolerances in the system anyways, so while the printer runs your temps will change between 215-225. That´s totally fine. You can then test for Extrusion multiplier so see how much flow you need. usually ±1%, so 99%-101% ca. Then you can test for retraction (you don´t need to do this for every filament, this highly depends on the hardness of material, TPU is soft and will deform more than PLA which is very hard and brittle. Mine works in about 0,5mm so I have my value set a 1mm and call it day. Max. Flow rate is important, one of the most important tests probably. If you find out your PLA looks okay at say 22mm³/s set it so 20mm³/s and you are fine. always leave a little bit of headroom for tolerances. And then jst print some parts and see how they turn out, you then adjust on a per part basis. If you print accurate parts where holes need to be aligned etc, so not only figurines you should also calibrate for XY hole compensation XY contour compensation and material shrinkage.

@@sierraecho884 thanks for your great explanation! It is very helpful

@@slomo4056 You are welcome. The most common mistake beginners do when tuning their printer is they tune it to the absolute limit without leaving an headroom for any kind of problems or tolerances AND people tune extrusion multiplier wrong because they confuse two parameters. Dimensional accuracy and extrusion multiplier. They print a cube and measure the dimensions of the layer width and the overall dimensions then they REDUCE the extruded amount because of course the cube is slighly larger, it is physically impossible to print 0.4mm lines with a 0.4mm nozzle. so now they tune in 90% flow test again do 95% and usually leave it somewhere there, which means yeah your cube looks nice (has weak layer bonds but who tests for that right ?) But everything else they prent come out underextruded. So what you do instead is print small flat objects 5-6mm high with 95% infill and see how the top layer comes out. Do you see gaps (under extruson) or ridges (over extrusion). Forget about geimetrical accuracy for now. Once you have dialed that in and your top surface is smooth and everything is withot gaps ONLY THEN you tune for accuracy. Simply print small objects about 5mm, so like a 5mm staurcase and measure the blocks also print holes and measure, then compensate for it in XY compensation that´s what it is there for. And now you will get precision infill precision sized small, very small objects. Fo parts which are say 200mm long you need to factor in material shrinkage. It can be very small for PLA about 0,3% (which translates fo a failure of 0,6mm on a 200mm parts) or bigger for PETG, ASA etc. PA can be really bad with 1,5% which means if you porint some fixture with holes, your hole position will be off by 2mm or so. Never confuse extrusion multiplier with geometrical accuracy. Your laver are usually 20% or up to 200% thicker than your nozzle size, they have to otherwise there would be no Squaish and therefore not Z layer adhesion, it is physically impossible to print 0.4mm wide lines with a 0.4mm nozzle. Personally my course draft layer witdh with my 0.4mm nozzle is 0.8mm. So I can print single wall object which are very stong with only 1 perimeter of 0.8mm instead of 2 perimeters (double the travel movements) with 0.42mm line width.

It's not too much filament being pushed, but too much being requested by the slicer (attempted to be pushed), i.e. more filament than the hotend (or extruder) can handle (edit: a reason can be that the hotend just can't melt the plastic fast enough). So if the slicer moves at a fast speed (or thick layer height) and thinks 20 mm3/s are being extruded, but the hotend can only do 14 mm3/s as in this case with the Revo, you will have underextrusion (basically missing plastic worth 6 mm3/s).

@@ThomasS17 Oh thank you so much for that explanation, makes perfect sense now. I'm only a few months into my 3D printing 'journey' and still have so much to learn.

@@slothgirl2022 No worries, glad it helped! There's a lot to learn, especially early on, but you'll learn it eventually, it just takes time. I'm about a year in and still learn new things (almost) every day.

It's in the fork of bambu slicer, now called orca slicer

To an extent this is true. However, printing hotter also means you need additional cooling to compensate. Also, at a certain point pumping heat into these materials can cause other problems. When testing flow rate I don’t like to go higher than a range of 20c. I wouldn’t go above 230 for PLA.

@@ModBotArmy my Bambu needs about 235 on turbo for pla. Default is 220 for generic. Going to try this test out tomorrow though. The material may not actually be reaching nozzle temperature as it's coming out so fast.

@@blaskotron their profiles are tuned. That aux fan is how they get away with cooling quick enough.

@@ModBotArmy Did the tests. At 220 C I got 25mm, 230 27mm, 240 28mm - all without changing cooling. It could flow faster but I believe that's where the quality would start to drop due to insufficient cooling. It seems the sagging corners represent insufficient cooling and gaps represent insufficient flow/nozzle temp. These are all MUCH faster than the stock profile of 12 mm for generic pla.

The calibration tools available make 1 much easier now. I have had really good results with finding that cap and setting it as a failsafe in the slicer :)

@@ModBotArmySadly temperature is missing as a parameter. I suppose you already dialed in your temp for that specific filament before.

2 thumbs up from me. I did the Mercury 1.1 and Hydra. Hydra adds a lot of cost too it as you at that point are only keeping frame and psu. I would start with the 1.1 conversion and see if you feel you want to upgrade the bed. Ender 5+ being supported on both sides is a much better start than the cantilever bed of the 5/5 pro. Will have a full video.

@@ModBotArmy thanks for the reply and the heads up on the Hydra aspect. The printer looks great! Looking forward to the video and starting the project for myself.

Yeah they just changed it 😂. Pretty funny timing. Will be nice for it to have a bit more of its own identity.

@@ModBotArmy Ha. Yeah typical.

Both cura and ultimaker have fallen off the face of the map. Ultimaker used to have a great AMS But it couldn't change filaments in between Prints.

Thank you for the support 🙌