Not as hard as one might think. I had never done it before But after watching a few vids. And stopped being intimidated. With the proper tools Dropping a tranny isn’t that big a deal

@@soundwave802002 I've done it several times. It not too hard when you have a lift and trany jack but when you do it in your drive way or on the side of a dirt road in the dark, it sucks. It also depends on if it real wheel drive- those are easier also. A few bolt around the bell housing, mounting bolt and the driveshaft and it's out. But front wheel, sometimes its easier to pull the whole drive train including motor.

Yeah for that kind if money that light is staying on

@@soundwave802002 bro u have no idea if you havnt actually done it. Watching videos and seeing exactly how to do it won’t mean it’s easy. For starters the transmission is heavy asfuc especially if it still has the tranny fluid inside. 2nd of all you have to dissemble multiple components before you think abt dropping the tranny. And most of the time these bolt are seized such as the drive shaft bolts. I guess you can say the easy part is disassembling every thing and dropping the tranny. The real hard part is putting everything back to place and at it’s respectable specs. I had trouble just tryna get the bell housing aligned and back into the engine, it’s not just a one easy push and bam. Every bolt has a specific torque and if you strip any bolts you’re fuked.

one of the wildest jump cuts I've ever experienced on a basic repair video

great news, i too goto youtube. ha sometimes i i google my question and my video pops up from 5-6 years ago, then i remember. hahaha thanks for watching.

How did it go?

@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 I discovered a faulty ignition switch. But the major culprit was a bad alternator plug. It would cause the truck to not charge. Therefore I was running off just battery.

@@No-handleneeded1 that's awesome to hear you took care of the problem best feeling ever. You also acquired a lot more understanding.

I have low voltage in my Bank 2 downstream 02 sensor. I don’t know where to start. Does each sensor have a ground wire/cable that is bolted down on the CAT? Could it be a fuse to that specific sensor? It’s a 2008 Nissan Frontier SE V6 4.0L. Any advise would be appreciated.

@@davechambers5279 Disclaimer not a professional by any means lol. But I would, start at the plug and work my way back. Sometimes connectors go bad or become corroded. Test the end of the plug then move up a foot or so and test the wire itself. If the voltage differs, then the plug/ connector could be the issue.

I second that! This video has redefined my perception of patience. Ty:)

Aaa

Take care folks. I hope y'all are doing well! 😎✌️

This video has elevated my consciousness to a higher level allowing me to manifest solid matter at will.

What codes did you have

hahaha thanks for watching

Did u find your problem?

@@shawnalexander1158 I have not, unfortunately. I suspect it’s a tuning problem, but I’m hesitant to spend the $ only to have them tell me they can’t figure it out either. Car drives fine otherwise. Just a pesky CEL that I’d feel better having fixed.

I know you posted this comment over a year ago, but do you remember where this frayed ground shoelace cable was located? Recently had my motor 5.7 rebuilt and ever since I got the truck back it shows the codes for low voltage on 02 sensors and when the truck gets up to running temp it will lock on 1,000 rpm once I hit a bump in the road. Any help on this will be great.

@@fishingdfdubb2807 The frayed shoe-lace ground was on the passanger side near the door and front wheel well. I later found a wire on top of the bell housing where the O2 wires crossed the housing that needed to be insulated. When my motor was rebuilt they did not protect the wire and it rubbed a bare spot and would contact and gave me fits to try and find.

I wished you lived in my area to help me!😏 On my 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT I could possibly have an electrical or wiring issue going to and from the O2 Sensors. I did a scan and it showed that I have CAT (catalytic converter(s) and HTR (the heater circuit in the O2 Sensors) that are in the red and some codes concerning my O2 Sensors, such as PO135. As a female that's new to doing my own vehicle repairs, I would like some advice to help me please. I hope I don't have any electrical or wiring issues! I'm going to try and follow this video and some of your suggestions by starting with checking my battery connections and then check those grounds.(What are the grounds? And how do I check those?)

@@flowersfam3462 Well I'm no mechanic so you would be much better off getting help from a real one or at an actual trusted shop! I was trouble shooting a single code for low voltage at all 4 of my 02 sensors and my O2 sensors didn't even have 20k on them so I had a strong feeling it was a wiring issue or maybe a failing ECU that just need some attention and patience to diagnose. You're getting multiple codes though right? What codes are you getting?

@@porterfx Yes, I'm getting multiple codes, Code P1151, Code PO156, Code PO161, Code PO155, Code PO141, and Code PO135

@@porterfx Yes, I'm getting multiple codes, Code PO156, Code PO161, Code PO155, Code PO141, and Code PO135

​@@flowersfam3462 Ouch, yea that's quite a few. It looks like they're pointing to Bank 2 of the exhaust (I believe thats the driver side of your Expedition). Starting at the lower end of the engine there are exhaust manifolds on both sides which exit out of the engine and hit an O2 sensor on both sides. Then to the Cats and I'm not sure on your Expedition but then there is another O2 sensor on both sides after the cats or just one after the exhaust tubes merge... Your issue may only be on the Bank 2 (driver) side of the exhaust so perhaps you should start there. Could be a wiring issue, bad connections at the wiring connectors, bad O2 sensors, or a cat that's clogged up or clogging up. Since you are trying to do whatever you can yourself before relying on taking it in to a shop... First before touching anything electrical always smart to disconnect the negative connection on the battery from the vehicle. Safety first and protects sensitive electrical components in the the vehicle from unnecessary damage. Be sure to wait until the vehicle is completely cold. Like after it's been sitting all night and the exhaust system is cold before tinkering around under the the vehicle. Check the wiring harness on the Bank 2 side for any signs of obvious damage, like tears or gouges, exposed wires, or any part of the wiring harness that is resting up against any sharp edges or against the exhaust pipes or cat. If you identify any damage make note of it so you can repair it properly or readdress that area later. If the damage is minor and the wiring is intact adding protective tape and wire loom is important. If any of the wiring is rubbing against something it shouldn't or too close to 'hot spots' like the exhaust pipe or cat, check the wiring again in those areas for damage, tape up and add wire loom for added protection and reposition the wiring so it is safely away from those 'hot spots'. This is something I did when checking through my wiring, I paid attention to possible problem areas and added extra protection. Zip-tied the wiring harness so it is away from any hazards. While you're under there and have your eyes looking around, I would recommend taking a look at the O2 connectors. The plastic connectors on the wiring coming from the O2 sensor. Cleaning up those connector plugs that connect the O2 sensors to the wiring harness would be wise. Frist spray the connectors down with an electrical cleaner (auto part store $10) to help remove any carbon, road grime and whatnot before disconnecting. Then gently disconnect one, should be a tab you can press down to release the lock and pull them apart. Quick tip: Be sure to use both hands and only pull the connectors apart holding the connectors and not the wiring. A little wiggle and finesse should release them. Then spray and gently clean the connectors to ensure a pins will provide a good electrical connection, but do it GENTLY you don't want to bend or break any of the metal pins in the connectors. You can use some qtips if needed. Allow to dry and what I like to do is add a smear of electrical grease (auto part store $10) to both sides (male and female connector) before reconnecting them. This helps with conductivity and also helps seal out exterior elements. Reconnect. Take a look at the O2 sensors while you are there. Note any severe wear or damage. If those are the original O2 sensors you may be replacing them if the issue still remains after servicing the wiring and connectors. Also, if they have been replaced someone could have used aftermarket O2 sensors and well sometimes they don't play nice with the vehicles ECU and/or fail sooner then OEM. Mine only plays nice with OEM so figured it was worth mentioning. After you've serviced the wiring and connectors make sure everything is plugged in properly, the wiring is where it should be and reconnect the negative connection at the battery. Now would be a good time to plug in your scanner and turn the key to On before starting it, clear the codes. Then you can fire it up and see if the codes come back and again write down each code. You never know you may get all the codes back, or only a few of them, or maybe even no codes (total score). If no codes come back, you're done. But if you do get codes again, depending on the codes that come back you may want to consider O2 replacements. Or as some do, simply switch the O2 sensors from one side to the other to see if the if the codes change and follow the bad O2 sensor(s). If they do you know for sure you need to replace 1 or 2 of the O2 sensors. If the codes stay the same as you had when starting this you could have a clogged up or clogging up cat on that Bank 2 side. The O2 sensors help the ECU regulate fuel going in the engine but they also monitor the 'Federally' mandated cats to make sure they are performing the task of reducing the emissions in the exhaust. Cats have a honeycomb or screen of metals inside that react with the exhaust that goes through. After decades of driving and carbon build up that 'screen' gets caked which leads to codes, performance loss and failure. If the O2 sensors are replaced and there are still codes popping up, you may have a clogged up cat and aside from attempting to run some cat cleaner through your fuel system you may need to have an exhaust shop check it. They basically remove the O2 sensors and plug up a machine that measures the flow. Usually you can spot a cat that's clogged or getting clogged by the radiant heat. A clogged cat will get really hot and if you have a temperature gun you can point it at each cat and measure the temp, if one is much hotter then that's your sign. A clogged cat may even glow red if it is getting too hot from being clogged. If the cat proves to be functioning and you are still getting codes you may have to take a look at the ECU. It's the vehicles computer that reads electrical data from all the sensors and then transmits the necessary electrical data to adjust and control different components. Like the O2 sensors, fuel injectors, etc. These can have issues on their own (car manufacturers like to put them in the engine bay where they are subjected to extreme heat and cool down fluctuations) or due to bad wiring or components causing unregulated electrical current into the ECU. If it ends up being the final fix, it's actually a pretty easy replacement. Just make sure you get a refurbished one from a reputable source and that it's preprogrammed to your VIN and mileage. It's a few screws, then plug and play. Again I am not a certified mechanic, just a guy who has seen his share of mechanical problems and isn't afraid to try fixing things (even if it requires a lot of reading, asking real mechanics and of course the dreaded trial & error). Find a trusted and honest mechanic though, nothing tops good hard working experience! I have a couple good mechanics with the equipment needed for the stuff I can't do myself. I will say if you are planning on servicing any vehicle you drive, scour the internet for a copy of the OEM service manual for that exact year make and model vehicle. Usually you can find a download link in one of your vehicles forums where other owners talk, ask questions, give advice, share their own two cents I guess you could say. I think the manual for mine is like 9,000 pages (and over the years I have probably read it all by now). It's basically a step by step service manual the OEM dealer mechanics use. While we may not have their fancy computer scanner to run a multitude of tests in the manual, it provides an abundance of steps to service parts, remove and replace, diagrams for every wire and where they connect to, specific codes and the exact steps the OEM manufacturer says to take to zero in on what is tripping a specific code or causing an issue. You may already be aware of some of the info I mentioned but I'm not sure what all you already know and hey knowledge is power so I tried to include anything that may help. So I do hope this helps! Good luck and good hunting!

ps, still, learned much here from you, yet again. thanks.

thanks for watching

thanks for watching!