FineScale Modeler: Using 2-part decal setting solutions

Рет қаралды 6,528

Күн бұрын

Welcome to FineScale Modeler: Using 2-part decal setting solutions. In this episode, Tim Kidwell walks through the steps of using 2-part decal solutions, explains what each part does, and shows the best tips and tricks for using them!
00:00 Opening and intro
00:17 What are 2-part decal setting solutions?
01:01 Starting the process
01:16 First decal solution (Micro Set)
01:53 Getting the decal on
02:06 Cotton swab trick
02:54 Second decal solution (Micro Sol)
04:17 Let it set and come back
04:40 Fixing bubbles
05:41 A tip for complex or stubborn decals
06:37 Getting out stubborn bubbles
07:47 A look at the finished example
08:07 Wrap-up/conclusion/sign-off
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Пікірлер: 38

@MrJhound4 9 ай бұрын

I actually love watching people apply waterslide decals.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

@bobrivett7645 6 ай бұрын

Very nice.

@user-rf7mg1sx3e 9 ай бұрын

Great information Tim. While I have had decent success with decals as you may have seen at some of the shows. My way of doing it is much more chaotic than what you just showed me. And my way is easy to screw up. So I think I need to try doing the decals this way.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 8 ай бұрын

Thanks, Chad! I hope this helps.

@gordon8753 9 ай бұрын

Great video Tim! very helpful! Up the Irons!

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Thanks, Gordon! Up the irons! -TK

@juniorworkshop1918 9 ай бұрын

Good work 👏

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Thank you!

@stuartsteel1 9 ай бұрын

Apart from the microscale setting solutions, I've found every other one I've tried "pools"up on the decal.

@scottbuildsthemall5124 9 ай бұрын

As a side note, once the decals are completely dry and set to your liking, use a cotton swab dampened with water to clean up the residue from the products you used. Do this before applying your product of choice to seal the decals. If not removed, the decal solutions will yellow over time.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Good point!

@kudukilla 9 ай бұрын

You mentioned the solution being a paint stripper. That’s the reason to put a clear coat down before decals.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Yes, but be careful, because it can also affect your clear coat.

@rszanger 9 ай бұрын

Tamiya mark fit waorks best for me...

@deanlewis8083 9 ай бұрын

Nice tutorial. Been using these for years. May I suggest one on using the one for saving old decals. Like a film that coats them and keeps them from breaking up. Is it better to brush or airbrush it? I have some 50 year old decals i want to use. I'm bleaching a couple old ones in the window now. Thanks for the great content

@Chilly_Billy 9 ай бұрын

I've used Microscale Liquid Decal Film twice, once with window-bleached decals and the second with old markings that had been in a sealed Super Scale envelope for probably 20+ years. In both cases I used a brush and everything worked well. Just remember that the liquid film has made a "decal" wherever it was applied. So the old decal borders no longer apply, even when it appears they do. Careful, close trimming with sharp scissors or a new X-acto blade will be needed for best results.

@bahot89 9 ай бұрын

How long between coats of set and sol and 2nd and 3rd coat of sol if needed? Should the decal be dry before adding next coat?

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

I usually let the solution do its job and dry out so I can see what the result is. If there are air bubbles that I didn't get out before, I'll concentrate on those, or work it under an edge that may not have settled the way it should have. -TK

@thomaschase7097 9 ай бұрын

I work only in 1/72 scale and use the Vallejo products. I start with gloss coat for a smooth application area. Apply fixer, apply decal, then apply softener. I wick all water away with a brush before applying the softener. After decal dries, I apply a satin coat, followed by a matt coat. Allowing satin to dry before applying matt. Then I apply chipping and weathering etc. I find that this approach makes good decals blend nearly flawlessly.

@Chilly_Billy 9 ай бұрын

That's my process as well, albeit with Microscale products.

@bmw128racer 9 ай бұрын

Since you're following up the MicroSol with another Q-Tip to get at some bubbles, would it help to dip the Q-Tip in MicroSol first or should the Q-Tip be dry?

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Keep the tip dry. Remember, the decal is already fragile at this point. You want to minimize any chance that you may stick to it or slide across it and tear it.

@notthatdonald1385 9 ай бұрын

It's a little more hairy with the 1/48 'No Step' decals....so I always keep my shrink's phone number nearby. ;) 🤔

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Ah, aircraft stencils ...

@Chilly_Billy 9 ай бұрын

Try a modern jet in 1/72. Now that's real "fun!" 🤣

@fernandov8238 9 ай бұрын

One thing I learned reading FMS is that it is better to use decal solutions from the same continent that the decal origin. Is thi still applicable to modern kits decals?

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Hi Fernando! It used to be that Hasegawa and Tamiya decals were thicker and didn't react well to Micro Sol, so Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer were the go-to solutions to help them settle. Since then, both companies have changed their decal printers and, in the case of Tamiya, have a proprietary two-part decal setting system. Nowadays, you can get kits from all over the world, so it's more about what setting solution works best for you. You'll also come across (like I did over the weekend) decals that resist almost any sort of coaxing, whether it be from heat, solution, or a combination of both. That's when it's good to have stronger solutions in your toolbox. -TK

@Chilly_Billy 9 ай бұрын

Algorithm entry

@TheBattleRabbit860 4 ай бұрын

I have been going crazy trying to find decal solution(s) that "work". I used Testors for the longest time, and I wanted to up my game. So I got Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, it ate through the clear coat and paint right down to the primer. Then I got Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer, I had a similar issue of paint coming right off. I have Vallejo Decal Fix and Decal Softener. Everyone asked said they had never heard of a decal solution taking off paint; so, this is a normal thing then? Just need to make sure to keep it on the decal?

@FineScaleModelermagazine 4 ай бұрын

Be careful when applying decal solutions to your models, especially the stronger versions from Tamiya and Mr. Hobby. Even the milder Micro Set and Micro Sol can affect paint. So, try to limit application to the decals themselves. It is normal, and you are not alone in this experience.

@TheBattleRabbit860 4 ай бұрын

@@FineScaleModelermagazine My rack of Vallejo paints thanks you!

@ralhmcc47 9 ай бұрын

I would guess you could but some cheap decals and experiment then do to your WnW decals so you don't muck them up.

@CFster 9 ай бұрын

There’s an increasingly popular opinion that squeezing the solution out from under the decal with the cotton bud is actually squeezing the adhesive out as well, which can lead to silvering. Best option is to wick away as much moisture as is necessary to get the decal to stay in one spot and then leave it to dry, then apply your softening solution.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 9 ай бұрын

Interesting. We hadn't heard of this opinion. Since seeing your post, we went to Mark Jones, owner of Scale-Master Decals, and asked him. He says, yes, some of the adhesive does come out. But then follows up with: "It is difficult to squeeze out all of the adhesive with a swab, brush, or paper towel. So the little that remains is enough in most cases. The vacuum created by smoothing them [decals] down also works to aid adhesion." We'll poll some of our other industry contacts for more information. In the meantime, if laying decals on and letting them dry works for you, go for it. We'll give it a try here at the magazine, too. However, we're careful about saying what is "best." We didn't say this was the best method. There's always more than one way to do things, and we know this method works. We'd love to hear more about your method and share it with FSM readers. Please email it to us at tips@finescale.com with any pics you'd like to share of the process.