Thanks for watching. Glad it helped. Please like and subscribe. That’s why I made this video because I scoured the internet for weeks before finding this solution so I figured I would show it better then the other vague videos on KZfaq.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe. As for your adhesive choice, may I suggest the brand no more nails construction adhesive. It’s a clear glue with instant grab so you can also skip the staples.

You’re welcome. I always love hearing from my viewers. And yes it is quite an adventure. There is always something on the to do list. My next project is insulting the attic. That will be in about 5 weeks from now. So stay tuned for that if you think it may help.

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Just curious, what are some of your favorite attic insults? I usually go with, "Why are you so cold?" and "Why don't you get a job?" But those are getting old. Looking forward to your response so I can spice it up a bit. Thank you!

Thanks. I appreciate that. Drywalling is actually my least favorite task to do. I’m glad you found my video. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Glad it was helpful. All the best in your Reno. Be safe. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Thanks for watching. Glad I could help. I used an oscillating multi tool to cut the overhang flush with my corner wall then sanded the edge a bit to smooth it and round it a bit. I actually haven’t finished it up yet. But if you buy a small t shaped schluter tile trim strip and slide it in the gap and glue it down it may look nicer. I’m going to look for some low profile vinyl quarter round and glue it over top of the seam just to hide it as another option. Theoretically any flat vinyl or plastic or pvc bead can simply be glued over the seam. Hope this advice is what you are looking for. Please like and subscribe

Nice. Thanks for watching. All the best in your project. Please like and subscribe

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Please like and subscribe

I prefer to cut about 6 inches above the tub. If you try to screw in a 2 inch strip of drywall it will most likely break. The 6 inch piece will make it easier to attach to the studs. And yes I would advise mold resistant drywall. If there is mold on the studs you can put bleach into a spray bottle and mist it. Then wipe it clean. Then must it thoroughly and let the bleach dry and soak in then install your drywall and mud.

Excellent tip. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

You would use this size as shown in the video. This will fit any application of a finished edge regardless of thickness. When I searched for the tear away L Beads it took weeks to find. I finally found them at a local store called Home Hardware. In my research I could only find the ones shown in the video. I’m pretty sure there is only one size. The only difference is the length. Thanks for watching. Hope this helps your project. Please like and subscribe

For The outside corners and inside corners I used a paper corner bead with plastic backing and used my spray adhesive to attach it. Thanks for watching. Hope it turns out well. Please like and subscribe

Yes. I put the drywall over the flange. I left a 1/8-1/4 inch gap between the drywall edge and surround finished edge. Your application will work just fine. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Mold resistant drywall is generally only necessary around the tub surround area where water may come into contact with it. The only time you should use mold resistant drywall on the entire bathroom would be in a bathroom with no exhaust fan where the steam from a hot shower would linger for a long time. Hope this helps shed light on the debate. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Please like and subscribe

I used a corner bead because it’s better at covering imperfections. I always face my cut edge to the corner so the corner bead hides it. I tried just using caulking instead one time and over time I found it would start to peel. A corner bead has better permanent results and presents a better finished product. If you use a corner bead with a plastic backing it will provide the protection you need. I hope this helps. Please like and subscribe

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Thanks for the help, I've liked and subscribed 👍

Thanks for watching. Yes I used 100% silicone caulk. The paint job turned out ok for my liking. The paint I used is white with a hint of grey tint so it’s not too far off from the caulk color. As I painted it would actually bead up on the caulk and not dry. But barely noticeable. thinking back I suppose I could have painted first then caulked for better results Hope your project turns out well. Please like and subscribe.

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Apparently you can hit the caulk with some spray Kilz primer or similar and that will help the paint stick.

@@eddiemarano9998 ok that’s good to know. Thanks for sharing that tip. And thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

@@eddiemarano9998yes use kilz on silicone caulk in order to paint it. Otherwise, use acrylic caulk. It’s mold and mildew resistant and is paintable.

You must leave that strip on during the install. Ripping that strip after is what makes the clean finish. Hope this helps. Please like and subscribe

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Found the answer in the comments below! Thanks again!

Hello and good day. Thanks for watching. I purchased mine at home hardware in brantford. Glad you found the video. Hope the Reno goes well. Please like and subscribe

You’re welcome

The method in the video is the way the manufacturer tells us to do it. If the manufacturer states this way and it works, why try it another way? They obviously tested the best way for their product to work. For the silicone to be paintable you need to check the label on the caulk before you buy. Some are paintable. Some are not. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

I agree, I would sand and paint first, then apply silicone. Makes the most sense.

I just used standard drywall. And less dust drywall compound to keep the mess to a minimum. Thanks for watching. Happy renovating and be safe. Please like and subscribe

That would also work. I however prefer the premixed stuff. Whatever works for the person applying it. End result will be the same. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Hot mud for sure.

Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

You will be screwing the drywall to the studs. Avoid screwing it into the fiberglass as it will crack it. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

Unfortunately I do not have a video for the install. I tried filming and at the end of the install I realized my camera died part way through. I installed directly at o my studs. I ripped all the drywall out. It is supposed to be attached direct to stud. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 will do, thank you. Were you satisfied with the install and would you do another one or go with something different? I've seen videos where ppl say the back wall isn't straight and you loose some space in the tub due to the niche sticking out.

I really love this shower surround. Even a year and a half later it’s still great. Never had an issue with the install. As long as you use a level to make sure it’s straight then you will be ok. And at first the niche shelf does stick out a lot and I was worried about it being annoying. But I got used to it fairly quickly. I no longer have an issue with the shower being more narrow. And I have long arms and wide shoulders. I recommend it 100%

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 awesome, thank you for the info. Subscribed.

I’ve seen people do it without corner beads as well. I’m not at that master level though. I’m simply a DIYer so putting a bead makes the install easier

I used Easyfil Dust Away drywall compound. It was the premix in a bucket with a light turquoise lid. Can be purchased at any hardware store that carries Easyfil brand. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Doesn't look like a consumer like myself can just buy a small amount of this for a small bathroom job. Any suggestions on how I can get ahold of the tear-away bead otherwise?

Do you have a home hardware near you? That’s where I got mine. They sell them individually

Are those in Canada only. I don't believe any of those stores are located in Ohio. The main big hardware store chains here are Home Depot and Lowe's I do not believe they are listed as dealers for trim tex supplies.

A lip and a flange is the same thing. The drywall is place over top of the flange where it’s screwed to the wall. What region do you live in? We are in southern Ontario and we bout our beads from home hardware.

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 ok, so placing over screws and leaving a small place for some sort of l trim. Hopefully a tear away to assist me! I’m in California I’m calling all around to find trim-Tex but not looking good. Looking for any other tear away but seems they are not in the market here as much

Mine was like that as well. The old drywall is 1/2 inch thick. So I came up with the solution to install 1/4 inch drywall around the edge so it sits lower and flush with the original wall. If that size reduction still doesn’t help, then you can also use thinner studs as well as 1/4 inch drywall to further drop the edge of the new patch. Thanks for watching. I hope this works for you. Please like and subscribe

Hi I’m stuck. What did you end up doing I have the same problem and way beginner and already bought 1/2” drywal

I bought 1/4 inch drywall to go around the surround and it will be flush.

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 maybe a dumb question but if using 1/4” drywall what day l bead should k be using ?

Yes it is. I got mine at home hardware. We are in Ontario Canada. Thanks for watching. Hope you find some. Please like and subscribe

They have this at home depot usa Florida, I just got the exact one. It is not trim tex

Ok. Ya every time I looked USA had them but here in Canada they only carry in one chain store. Thanks for the tip. Please like and subscribe

@@AyisyenNanDjaspora I got something similar from Home Depot also. I think they key difference is the piece that goes over the sheetrock is not as long, and I'm not sure if it will work for me.

I got mine at home hardware. Hopefully this helps you. Please like and subscribe

Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

You would have to call a contractor and ask. A good contractor could give a rough over the phone quote for this job

@@BillOfAllTrades2016 what would you roughly quote it at?

I have no idea. I’m not a contractor

Yes looking back that’s a good idea. Or perhaps frog tape could work as well. Thanks for the tip. And thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe

This is the correct bead. I contacted the manufacturer directly and they suggested this bead for my application. This bead is for butting drywall up against any finished edge. Doesn’t matter if it’s against a window frame or shower surround. And if you need a 2 1/4 flange to fill the gap then you need to learn to use a measuring tape. I left only a 1/4 inch gap myself because I know what I’m doing. But I suppose there is always that one person that has to find the smallest flaw (in their opinion) in an otherwise flawless installation. Thanks for watching.

Yes you are correct. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe