@johnnytheprick those guys are a bunch of goofballs

And the loser do a give away with there build to a random follower

Cars n. Cameras always invites him ,I think he's been twice, but grind hard hasn't ever been a part of it tho

@@trevorstevens3994 yeah !

@johnnytheprick and vasily builds

🤣

Repent to Jesus Christ “Consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith produces perseverance.” ‭‭James‬ ‭1:2-3‬ ‭NIV‬‬ J

Cool seeing you here

Haha amazing to see you here, thanks man. I love your videos 😁

@@ratherBweldingChris shock oil volume might impact rebound speed , but it should have nothing to do with whether or not it actually rebounds. Something doesn't compute. Unless the shocks you have had been overfilled with oil, causing some sort of malfunction. But they're just have an oil chamber and an orifice, so I dunno what would be malfunctioning from too much oil. I'm scratching my head on this one. Why did draining the oil finally get the suspension to rebound ? Do you have a Bad pressure gauge in your shop? Maybe the pressure you thought you put in them wasn't what the gauge said.

Toooooo many variables

Definitely needs to start with a heavier primary spring and heavier weights. This will solve both the engagement rpm (more weight - faster engagement) and clamping force (stiffer spring). When doing the flex test you can hear the belt wailing in agony due to slip. See a lot of this problem on the CanAm X3s when guys go to bigger tires (35s) or run paddles

absolutely..bigger spring for sure. quality belt too ... once he glazed it it was shot ...take a brillo pad to the surfaces of the clutch

@@tshupp72 green scotch bright and clutch cleaner, scuffing at a 45 degree across the sheave faces 👌🏽

@@austinconklin08 >neat

Joel took the words right out of my mouth. Please listen to Joel.

@@Grim0954 same here, im a mtb suspensions mechanic and you never use less oil than whtas recomended by the maker... u change oil grades oe valve shims.

Those fox air shocks are emulsion shocks so removing oil will change the damping.

@@FarmerFpv Really... I've never heard of that. I'll have to look into it. Do you happen to have a link to this information ? I had a quick look and don't see anything. Just had a look at their site and don't see anything about this... I do see in the specs that it says "Valving Tunable, velocity sensitive deburred valve shims" seeming to indicate what I thought was correct. Not saying I'm right, but I'd like to see where FOX recommends this.

I’ve tried looking this stuff up but can’t find any information on it with the shocks that I have. But on the pamphlet that came with the shocks it says to adjust the oil level to adjust the damping

You can take out 'valving washers'from inside the shock to make rebound different.Same for dampening.

Those fox air shocks are emulsion shocks so removing oil will change the damping.

@@FarmerFpv the way I understand emulsion shocks is that the pressure inside needs to be quite high for the oil to foam up and produce a higher damping effect. So he will still need to balance between how much air and how much oil.. now he has removed a fair amount of oil. The damping will be a lot lower and will require more nitrogen to displace the lost volume from the oil removed. I've seen quite a few posts regarding these shocks as time bombs and I'd probably put money on it being because people have removed too much oil and then filled it with more nitrogen to compensate. They apparently explode like metal airbags 💥💥

@@MaNNeRz91 no

@@FarmerFpv incorrect. too much oil and they lock up or explode...but thats user error. they are valved like a normal shock. nitrogen is the spring rate oil is the oil. valving is standard same as any other shock.

He has the skills to make the correct 2-speed box with reverse. He could easily make a 2:1 reduction high range, with a 5 or 6:1 low range, then adjust primary and secondary sprockets for the best gearing. He said he wanted the CVT so he doesn't have to mess with the clutch on the trail, but the way it's set up he's going to have to modulate the clutch to avoid burning up the CVT and chain. It would be VASTLY better as a direct drive with clutch.

Yeah, CVT on a rig like that would not be my first choice, thats for certain.

That CVT there makes no sense. It will always be the weakest link in all the transmission

@@leos7429 Thats also how i feel about the side by sides, instead of CVT and belt drive garbage, they could have just beefed up the transmissions and diff setups from the large 4 wheelers, or just made better ones so you could get them in a manual transmission option or an auto/tiptronic style setup. Ive just never been one for CVT, sure, its fine on a snowmobile and a small go cart, but when the large toys have them, it just seems like a cheap cop-out. Belt drive CVT on a 4 wheel drive off road machine? No thanks, would much rather have even chain drive multi gear if shaft is completely out of the equation. I have no doubt there are plenty who just fabricate them with something out of, say, a suzuki samaurai or similar small 4x4, or even larger if able to fab it all under a side by side.

I doubt it would be too much of an issue. Nothing against the machine, but its not like its a v8 in there twisting it lol

Repent to Jesus Christ “Consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith produces perseverance.” ‭‭James‬ ‭1:2-3‬ ‭NIV‬‬ h

What about running lighter oil to adjust for the valving.

From someone that has been in the offroad suspension feild for many years working with tuning on shocks... the Air pressure is spring force on these, the oil volume changes how these shocks "ramp up" on compression. And the valve shims are the damping of the shock portion of these air shocks. More spring force (air psi) will raise the vehicle. 1.2x psi will = the spring force (if they are 2.0's which they look like to me) Air shocks do not have bypass ports, they are not internal or external bypasses. I assume you are referring to the bleed in the piston.

@@UncleVio bleed port, that’s the word, essentially bypassing the shim stack.

@@freyja4954 changing the oils viscosity was the first thing I thought of when he just dumped it out. After that oil cavitates you no longer have a shock absorber just an airspring.

Heavier weight = heavier spring unless your going for lower engagement which I would say this needs anyways. That said Im not there to experience the tuning first hand.

@@SuperBigdanno it’s pretty simple, plenty of snow mobileers do it all the time. Clutch tuning results in huge gains. I also imagine his secondary clutch alignment might not be accurate which can cause the secondary to lock up and in turn cause the weights to want to wobble, causing the synthetic weight bearings to wear causing the weights to smack and lock up in the clutch housing. Another thing that can cause is clutch balancing Ie not having the primary clutch properly balanced (it’s why you’ll see partial drill holes out of the outer plate. Put the plate in out of the “x” and or mix match parts and you’ll have clutch weights wear out and cause clutch lock. As far as tuning with heavier weights, it’s engaging pretty late, even with the belt tight, going up to the next weight heavier or even 2 heavier will help with the responsiveness. When you know you’ve gone too heavy, the weights activate the clutch at idle. He also probably needs a thicker washer inside the primary, it looked like he had some belt slop, it should be tighter at idle/off, to know how much is look up the clutch and the range of slop allowed. Do this with a new belt not a used belt.

@@AkPacerPilot as a snowmobiler I agree lol the bushings that cause the clutch not to engage are the large center bushings in the sliding sheve and outer cover, could be the weights are notched but he had to tap the clutch to get it to move so bushings it is. Usually when the weight bushings are worn they will ware into the towers if left long enough and then get caught on the tower and hold the clutch engaged, this can also happen with flat spotted rollers... rollers can be worn through and the weight gets caught on it again hold it engaged. All that said I would switch that clutch out for a Power Bloc clutch and get away from the junk fly weight clutch all together. Way less part to ware out and easier/ cheaper to tune.

@@SuperBigdanno spot on, actually when you get the tooling or in my case fabricate the tooling, cvt clutch work isn’t all that expensive, last P85 I rebuilt, think I spent 80$ and that including replacing the weight bushings that Polaris says are “unchangeable”. When CVT’s get expensive is when they go way way too long and the synthetic bushings they call bearings wear out and metal gets damaged. I haven’t messed with power bloc, do they have a good match for P85 swap out?

@@AkPacerPilot yes Power bloc has a good match to the p85, they have a clutch for pretty much any application from 30hp to 200hp or more. They also supply a lot of oem snowmobiles and atvs. I wish they were a sponsor but nope I pay cash like everyone else lol. I will say that for a racer this is not a clutch for them (not quite tunable for that very last drop of power) but the average every day rider they are a really good long lasting unit. First inspection is not until 3000 miles and from what Ive seen they really dont need that but still good to have a look.

Seriously? That thing is garbage. He can’t even keep it running. He needs some help with ideas. All that shit he built as a drive train is a nightmare. Absolutely myopic af.

@@longsleevethong1457 let's see you build something better 🤣

@@ItsGalaxys I build classic cars and motorcycles. If I did this sort of thing I would never create so many worthless moving parts. Think smarter bro. That drive train is absolute garbage and you know it.

@@longsleevethong1457 a lot easier to put old cars together then make something new you could do no better

@@trentonnelson8593 lol ok. Says you. Look…this contraption is junk and you know it. This is poor execution.

70-80s roller skates have very soft rubber. Find a pair at a second hand store and that is 8 wheels.

That, or even a small sprocket.

Get rid of the plastic , put a small sprocket in place with bearings inside of the sprocket ...we used sprocket back in the 70`s and 80`s .

A chain is always bumping on round objects. Use a sprocket, that’s designed for it.

My motorcycle has the same engine, its a great engine. Pulls hard after 4,000 rpm

do u even know what u talkin about cleary u have 0 knowledge of a cvt a cvt is better then any other gearbox ever made thats why they banned cvt in formula 1 racing u make all the power at any givin point u need it it never stops makin power lol go back to school

@@NubsWithGuns I think he means for it to be 1 to 1 gearing. Like no variation

@@superbanaan9 Firstly, calm down. Secondly, why don't Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, Bugatti, ... Use them on their high performance cars if CVTs are the best transmissions?

I was thinking the same thing at first I know what you mean . But That motorcycle clutch most likely can’t handle that much weight but that cvt is made for sxs’s so I think he’s doing it right just have sum tweaking to do this project is going to be major!

@@superbanaan9 do you honestly believe that a cvt like this which more or less works purely by friction won't take any power out of the system? Sure you can tune them to only engage at optimal rpm, but if you didn't have it it would work better at those rpm's

It needs a gear reduction at the axles, a sway bar will reduce flex but a gear reduction will not while doing a better job at reducing torque twist.

Was thinking same. Wouldn't there be more friction with a sprocket due to area of teeth???

@@geoffburrill9850 I was thinking the sprocket would have less friction but I honestly have no idea lol

@@mitchgohl4854 Ya all are to young lol , I used a sprocket in the 70`s and 8-0`s on our dirt bikes , the sprocket had a bearing in the center , they never wore out ...

@@88s10Durango Never part i dont buy but lasted way longer than actual gears since there is way less force coming to tensioner.

Agree

Thats what I thought too he first said I wanna build a rock bouncer then changed it to a crawler an didn't change the seat I guess

😒

Spoken like a true expert. I'd imagine he'd be wearing a helmet and harness like in his other builds, so concussions aren't likely. And the weight distribution seems fine to me. That engine is far forward and the seat isn't over the rear axle. It absolutely isn't as optimal as a full-size chassis but as far as simple crawlers it will certainly suffice. The bottom line is you couldn't build anything like this, and I think you know that. Constructive criticism is fine, but not when it's based on non-facts and coming from someone with no experience.

also side note: I've been around 4x4 rock crawlers long enough to know that you are going to want a chosen weak point that is easy to replace when broken. guys with weak jeep axles sometimes wont upgrade to chromoly shafts so they don't destroy the ring and pinion gears, all I am saying is the slipping clutch may be a blessing in disguise.