First floor joists and flitch plate

Рет қаралды 58,650

3 жыл бұрын

Here is the kit I use:
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
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Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
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Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
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Hikoki Nail Gun
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Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
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Damp Proof Membrane
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18mm Chipboard Flooring
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Пікірлер: 128

@malcelwell7209 3 жыл бұрын

O ok that makes sense , thanks for the reply good luck with the rest of the building loving it 👍

@jasonmurphy435 3 жыл бұрын

brilliant video. very detailed and interesting from a handyman perspective. thank you👌

@AmarSingh-zc5nj 3 жыл бұрын

Another great video Tom. This series is becoming more and more interesting...👍

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate! Really appreciate the encouragement

@adrianwilding2912 3 жыл бұрын

Be careful up there! If I'm working at that sort of height I generally tie myself on from my tool belt for peace of mind. Learned the hard way recently what damage can be done from even a five foot platform, and from first floor up you don't get a second chance. Happy New Year!👍

@getfitforlife23 3 жыл бұрын

Great videos! I love the detail and how you can make it so anybody can understand the process

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate! Glad you're enjoying the vids, thanks for supporting the channel

@barringtonsmythe3464 3 жыл бұрын

Interesting process. I haven't seen a timber framed extension in this much detail 👍👍

@kriswild1824 3 жыл бұрын

Coz it's cost double the price that's why u don't see it waste of money u can spend on the finishing touches

@kriswild1824 3 жыл бұрын

Damp doesn't rise anymore than metre from ground level why wrap your wrafters in damp when covered by render felt n lead 🤔🤔

@HaroonAshraf 3 жыл бұрын

@@kriswild1824 you clearly don't understand rising damp

@kriswild1824 3 жыл бұрын

@@HaroonAshraf listen mate I've been a bricklayer for 18 years since I left school rising damp from the ground goes no higher than a meter. Any other damp comes from bad airflow n condensation within the house

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I can assure you it isn't double the cost mate. I had quotes of £180K from two separate building companies for all the work. It's costing me around £100K. The timber materials have cost around £9K all told...I'm saving a load of money on the labour, as you would save as an experienced bricklayer if you built your own in brick. Timber frame isn't done/seen as much in the UK because the industry is used to building with brick. In the US/Canada they're used to building with timber so they do that more.

@MrLittledirector 3 жыл бұрын

Brilliant video! Was very interesting to watch 😁

@toddavis8603 Жыл бұрын

Old school spirit levels-----great carpentry!

@OfficeBoyBuilder Жыл бұрын

Cheers mate! Doing the best I can!

@Halkinesas 3 жыл бұрын

Great work. Just quick advice: when you're fixing ledger board to masonry wall using bolts, don't line them in center all the way. Zig zag them. One closer to top, other closer to bottom.

@scitec717 Жыл бұрын

But then might not get the bolts centre into the bricks and the way he did it is approved

@derekirwin7885 Жыл бұрын

Ŵw

@andykostynowicz Жыл бұрын

I have never seen 12mm bolts used as resin anchors as there is no means of tightening them up. Always used anchor bolts or threaded rod

@toastingbread Жыл бұрын

prevents the timber from splitting - same as a wall plate

@youngprince716 11 ай бұрын

Mason here..good advice !

@earthwormjj 3 жыл бұрын

This videos are so good !

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers for the support mate, much appreciated!

@GeekStreet 3 жыл бұрын

Great progress on the build, didn't think you could do the construction in timber thought you'd need to brick up most of it.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

That's a common thought, but it's a misconception...they build almost exclusively in timber in the States and Canada, with far worse weather than we have. It's actually better insulated than brick too. Thanks for the comment mate, I hope you and the family are well 👍

@johnmit 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder Timber frame is also the most common method in Scotland, where it is both colder and wetter.

@bradwad 3 жыл бұрын

most timber framed now id say in large scale builders,

@gerrypoutney3174 3 жыл бұрын

with any timber frame , you should have a edgebinder that sits on the header plate of frame and nailed into the joist ends. surprised building standards and engineer was happy not to have it in place. good video and look forward to seeing out it goes.

@noskills9577 3 жыл бұрын

£60 spent on a cheap 360 laser from Amazon would of saved a bit of setting out time and agro but never mind. Keep up the good work.

@andykostynowicz Жыл бұрын

only use laser now for this sort of work, so easy but a level will be accurate enough

@alanmetclaff6718 3 жыл бұрын

Buy yourself a 4 D 16 line laser level, best thing I ever did and all my tile work is spot on.

@eversleyowl 3 жыл бұрын

"...what the hell is this thing called?" Been there so many times 😂 Really enjoying this build series.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I almost edited it out, but then figured "what the heck, we've all been there!" 🤣🤯 Cheers for the support, glad you're enjoying it.

@nathanharris292 3 жыл бұрын

Great idea with the osb instead of ripping or planing timber 👍🏻

@kevin-ud8pc 3 жыл бұрын

put a metre datum around the job from finished floor level (FFL) twang a chalk line round measure up or down from your metre datum everything will be level use your lasr to put the marks around the site

@jamoco1 3 жыл бұрын

Buy a laser best thing i bought for doing that type of work, Always keep biulding inspector onside, Nice job

@scottsparky1 3 жыл бұрын

You should of got yourself a 3 line green laser. For all your setting out it would of made it a lot taster and quicker

@andrewpalij4691 3 жыл бұрын

I always drop a plumb line from the top of the building to the bottom before I start that way your new work is plumb and fits at the top.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

That's a very good idea! Thankfully I managed to maintain plumb by doing it in stages, but it took longer and is prone to more errors than if I'd thought to use a plumb line!

@Alexnse10 3 жыл бұрын

Really enjoying watching this come together 👍, have you considered investing is a laser level,makes life so much easier 👍

@beckjumper5787 3 жыл бұрын

Can I have a job? :) that looks so interesting to build. Only ever built timber frame in garden rooms/ sheds

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

It's really good fun building with timber frame! I don't do this for a living, it's just my own home extension. Best of luck mate!

@justinrogers4639 3 жыл бұрын

Please invest in a laser and set up a datum on every corner of the build. Chalk line it through if possible.

@davideyres955 3 жыл бұрын

Have you considered getting a nice long piece of clear tubing and using water for level across a large area?

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I did look at water levels and thought they were pretty clever! Didn't end up using one though.

@andykostynowicz Жыл бұрын

Old school....I remember it well. Even a laser is a problem on a sunny day

@marraaman 3 жыл бұрын

I prefer your videos were we see you doing rather than just explaining what you have done

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah that's a fair comment mate - my misses said the same thing! I'm trying to film what I do more. It's hard though because I film on my phone and it's normally in my pocket...I'm trying to improve!

@craighunter7379 3 жыл бұрын

some lovely timber there mate , what merchant are you using ???

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate, I bought it all from Builder Depot...I was seriously impressed with the price, service and quality of the wood. Very good stuff from Sweden.

@cratemaker1 3 жыл бұрын

Looking good I was just wondering if there was any reason you'd not put any noggings/strutting in the floors yet

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I have deliberately not out noggins in the ground floor yet, because I needed to run water pipes and electric cabling, and also remove other walls and things that would cause debris which is a pain to clear out with noggins. In the side extension I'm not actually putting noggins in, because the span is only 2.5m wide and they are 8x3 timbers. To get the levels right with the staircase I've bought, I'm also putting full sheets of 18mm OSB down across the whole side area, which is glued and screwed down, before the 22mm tongue and groove chipboard us put on top of that, so it will be unbelievable rigid!

@cratemaker1 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder OK that sounds alright although I would have doubts about that stopping the beams twisting as only fixed on one edge

@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder Herringbone strutting is great for running services, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪

@malcelwell7209 3 жыл бұрын

Happy near year to you Why not use a RSJ for the For the front crossmember?

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Happy new year mate. We had the same with the ridge beam at the back (coming up in a later video). When I started working with the structural engineer we wanted to keep the weight down without compromising on the strength too much. We weren't 100% sure how good the walls/foundations were, and wanted to reduce any unnecessary additional load.

@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын

Because steel is a pain, timber is far nicer to work with.

@malom513 3 жыл бұрын

great content, what size bolts are typically used for the ledger board (M12/M16)?.. presuming the same sized bolts are also used for installing a ledger in a loft conversion?..

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I was using M16's here. I haven't installed a ledger board in a loft before...not sure where that would be placed if I'm honest.

@malom513 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for confirming, you find ledgers are installed when the ceiling are dropped on the first floor to gain more height in the loft, so a ledger board is usually fixed to external wall (from the inside off course) to pick up joists from the beam, M12's appear to be fine but i would go the M16 route as you have

@mwils20 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, new to this game but need to secure a ledger board in my eaves. My attic is converted but have dwarf walls with no flooring behind them which I’m looking to resolve. Are the m16 bolts you refer to standard and available readily? As for the Chen fix is there a brand I should go with? (Love the channel by the way)

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate! M16 bolts are pretty standard, you could probably use M12's or M14's too in that instance, given that your loft is already converted...Rawl Plug chem fix is fantastic, it's a brand that's been around for decades so I tend to trust them. That being said, any structural grade chem fix will have to comply with certain standards, so I wouldn't worry too much. Also, check out Timber Lock bolts - they're amazing, and rated up to 1tonne per bolt, so if it's just timber into timber, you can't go wrong with those.

@stuartandrews4344 3 жыл бұрын

Instead of using dpm on flitch,paint the ends with a coat or two of bitumen,a tip I was taught 40 years ago by old builder.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Good shout. The DPM was actually a suggestion (request!) By the building inspector, so I just did as I was told 🤣

@AJ-ds5gf 3 жыл бұрын

yeah, that was 40 years ago pal. There's a reason dpm is used instead, it's faster and easier.

@stuartandrews4344 3 жыл бұрын

@@AJ-ds5gf How times haved changed,never been keen using dpc to wrap a joist end, think it just traps any moisture present.Have had a few building inspectors who didn't like using dpm for wrapping,& wanted a proper joist caps instead.

@garibeattie6653 3 жыл бұрын

Hi enjoying your building progress can you say what make you prefer of Chen fix? I looked on Amazon but didn’t find a product called Chen fix?? So does it have another name cheers G

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I love the Rawl Plug stuff (Jewson's sell it) but in all honesty most brands are fine. I've used a few different ones and they've all been good.

@michaelhannay6203 3 жыл бұрын

Enjoying these videos and progress! However a few details are puzzling me. Why aren’t you using resin studs? Your joists also need a rim board fixed flush with the outside of the 6x2 and nailed back into the ends of the joists. The Dpm detail around your joists you should be using something like fc750 or vc foil. Also for your headbinder if you’re left with a small piece cut it back to a metre or more.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying it. I'm sticking to the brief I've been given by the structural engineer...I guess there are so many different ways of doing things that everyone ends up with something slightly different. The DPM was actually a suggestion/stipulation by the building inspector, rather than the engineer who detailed it, so I just did as he requested.

@michaelhannay6203 3 жыл бұрын

I put it down to the English engineers lack of timber frame experience 🤣 great to see it going up though. Best of luck with the rest of the build 👍

@chvydrptop 3 жыл бұрын

What would you guys have used if you were only say an 1/8 to 3/16 out for shimming?

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Over a span of that distance (2.8m) a difference of 1/8 to 3/16ths probably wouldn't have presented enough of an issue to worry about really!

@HaroonAshraf 3 жыл бұрын

As someone else said, great to see the timber works in so much detail. Are the timber studs sizing and centres sized and specified by the structural engineer? Also noticed you haven't put any double floor joists in anywhere, presume there'll probably be some internal partition walls somewhere?

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate - The spacings and sizes are dictated by the structural engineer, but they're standard too - at 400 centres, and 6x2 timbers are standard for 2 storey walls (and are sometimes used in lofts too, although you can use 4x2's there). I do double up later when I layout for the stair-case/stud wall

@JBinthesticks 3 жыл бұрын

Building Regs Approved Document Part A specifies spans and timber sizes. It's an easy reference without having to employ a structural engineer... If you know the square metre load.🙂

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

That's great to know, thanks mate! I did end up referring to that document because I queried the sizes of some of the beams he had specified, which seemed over the top, but I didn't know I could refer to it and draw my own conclusions. I assumed I needed it "done properly" 🤣

@JBinthesticks 3 жыл бұрын

The ceiling joists are specified in Part A. As an example, we have a ceiling to put under a concrete roof deck as part of our conversion of a control tower. Our architect specified wire hung 4x2 which isn't satisfactory because drilling into the underside of a precast deck is a bit crap. Instead, I am putting in a faceplate on the concrete walls all around and joisting at 400 centres with 50x150 which is spot on for the 3.1m spans and bearing load of insulation, membrane and two layers of plasterboard. Securing to the under side of the precast roof deck would be a lottery as to whether the soffit is consistently thick enough and hitting rebar when drilling for fixings. We are on Facebook as West Raynham Control Tower, to give you an idea. Good luck with the build.👍

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

That's a fantastic solution mate, nice work. Will definitely check you out on Facebook, thanks for sharing and best of luck with it (although it sound like you've got it covered!)

@justbreakingballs 2 жыл бұрын

Tell Ur mate to put the level on top of that timber

@danielmij 2 жыл бұрын

What size ioists did you use? They seemed narrow.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 2 жыл бұрын

8x3 inch timbers...everyone who came to inspect/visit the site said they seemed like complete overkill! Very sturdy joists

@thomasszozda5247 3 жыл бұрын

What do you do for a living ?

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I'm contracting at the moment, so been working on the site during the day and my contract job in the evenings...! Pretty exhausting, but the site work is slowing down now, so I'll be more full time in my office job from the new year.

@garycooper227 3 жыл бұрын

What is it holding up

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

It will support the second storey walls and the rafters/tiles above that. All specified by the structural engineer, and built to the letter.

@garyhynes4366 3 жыл бұрын

Hi what was the spec of your flitch plate pls

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

8x3" timbers with 1cm thick steel plate sandwiched between 💪

@saferider1094 3 жыл бұрын

That is not dead level! Get a laser it's a lot safer faster

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I appreciate it doesn't look like that on the video, but I assure you it is. The level was on the beam at an angle, which meant parallax makes it look slightly out. I have no incentive to build my own home out of level 🤣

@JON1201ROTH 3 жыл бұрын

Bang level? It’s in the lines but not bang level. @ 2.24

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

@JON1201ROTH 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder ok Bob 🙄

@chrisnicholls391 3 жыл бұрын

Flitch beam, not plate - you start with a flitch plate and once you add the timber both sides it becomes a flitch beam, just saying.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Good shout! You're absolutely right...it's funny how language gets stuck in, even when it's wrong.

@martinspencer9950 3 жыл бұрын

Great video & presentation. However: You shouldn’t use bolts like that to fix your wall plate. How can you possibly tighten the timber up to the wall? You should use studs with resin, washers and nuts so to can tighten fully when set. Timber dries and shrinks and it’s always good to get a few final turns on every fixing just before you plasterboard and after timbers have dried out for a few weeks. If I was inspector then I wouldn’t approve those as I have seen them fail. A big part of that wall plate detail is your resin working properly. Drill, brush out, clean and then resin, as it says on the side of the tube. I noted the same detail on your floor joists - you have nothing to tighten up against.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate, a couple of people have suggested that, and I can see a lot of merit in that method. If I had known I was allowed to deviate slightly from what had been specified by the structural engineer, then I would have switched that type in. In fact later in the build I do use those bolts as they allowed me to more accurately straighten up a wall against the uneven wall of the house. I ensured the joists were very tight when cutting and fitting them, so that will also help.

@ixHavoKz93 2 жыл бұрын

I am about to do this process myself with resin and studs, this will be for my “lean to” roof, but I’m not sure how far into the brick I should go with the bolt?

@nelsbhoy 3 жыл бұрын

Shambles,making it up as you go along.Setting this out firstly with proper levels prevents all these ad hoc measurements.

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

So no different from 99% of the professional builders out there...nice to know. As a keen DIYer I'm very happy with what I've achieved, and the building inspector was too.

@AJ-ds5gf 3 жыл бұрын

you really need to buy yourself a good laser level. So many of your tasks would have been done faster and more easily if you had one.

@silviubahnovei 3 жыл бұрын

2:23 that’s not quite “dead level”

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I appreciate it doesn't look like that on the video, but I assure you it is. The level was on the beam at an angle, which means parallax makes it look slightly out. I have no incentive to build my own home out of level 🤣

@ozzyefc44 3 жыл бұрын

Why are you building a wooden frame instead of brick/block

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Just playing to my strengths (and passion). I don't know anything about brick and blockwork, as you'll see in a previous video lol! I understand timber and really enjoy working with it. Incidentally it's also far more thermally efficient than blockwork, and it builds a bit faster too.

@ozzyefc44 3 жыл бұрын

@@OfficeBoyBuilder is it cheaper or dearer than brick/block . how will it be clad on the outside

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

I think it's cheaper, not least because of the amount of time it takes and the number of people needed to build in brick. With timber you build it once and in fill with insulation, and the walls go up in minutes. With brick you need to build each wall twice and infill with insulation as you go, and it's typically a thinner amount of mineral wool insulation which is less efficient than rigid PIR. The raw materials cost around the same, but timber is possibly marginally cheaper if you get trade rates.

@MrDockin 3 жыл бұрын

I think you will find cost is relative. Wet work is dictated by weather, timber can be worked all year around. If you only have timber experience then why not, you will always have arguments for both and they will always have their place for use.

@peterpeterson9903 3 жыл бұрын

Not impressed with the OSB packer. That should be a piece of steel ideally. A little plate of OSB like that WILL compress slightly over time and if it ever got damp or started to degrade your packer has just become a pile of crushed shreddies.

@MrDockin 3 жыл бұрын

Totally agree Peter Peterson, I have had to pull up scaffolders using this packing method and material for the same reasons, which it did degrade over 1 month. All beit the material was exposed more to the elements (this was work overseas).

@Daemiex 3 жыл бұрын

that timber warrens holding the level to looks about as straight as my dogs tail, so your bubble will be in a different spot using a straight piece of timber, ive had this issue recently with buying wood thats been sat at a builders merch through out lockdown, they were 3 metre lengths and gave a different level reading at both ends and the middle. you can see the gap between the level and the wood on the left, so if you close that gap your other end flies out of whack, nothing wrong with your method just imo wrong choice of wood to use as a straight level

@OfficeBoyBuilder 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah you make a fair point mate - we did check the timber was a straight as possible - the camera doesn't really help to show this. The side of the timber had been cut and so looks really rough, but the side that we were using to level off was actually dead straight - scouts honour!

@TheToolnut 3 жыл бұрын

It looked like a two by one as well, there's no way one should be using that as as straight edge over that span. I'd highly recommend an 8' level from Stabila and a three way green line laser.