Thanks for this video, fonund my broken wire after your video!!!👍

Thank you for the video. I don't have a Prusa but I had the same issue with my ender 3 and your video helped me fix the problem. Loose wire. Thanks again.

Hi, Chris in Bulgaria, I was checking my cables when your video came up, yes it was just a loose solder joint, Thanks, Long Live PLA

Brilliant ! Thank you ! same problem there ! but The connection is loose just at one specific point on the x axis that I found by disabling the stepper motor and manually move the x axis. Will try to deal with prusa for a new part.

Had this issue with my new printer a few months ago. Drove me crazy because I couldn't locate the break. Turns out complete replacement thermistors with wire and plug sell for £5 for 3 on ebay. Job done

Thanks so much! Exactly fixed the problem with a loose cable.

Thank you! I was having the same error message and your video helped me fix it. :)

Soon after I began using my factory-assembled Prusa i3 MK3S+, its thermistor wire broke. I replaced it (after wasting several hours proving to Prusa reps that the thermistor was indeed the source of the problem; obvious to me, with my electronics background). Months later, it failed again, followed by days of wasting time going back and forth with Prusa reps. For anyone who hasn’t done this repair on a recent i3 MK3S+ (it’s a bit different than the printer shown in this video), it is exasperating because the engineering of their cable assembly is simply harebrained. Of the many engineering decisions made in designing that, all of them were utterly stupid. Competitors have better cable management methods, and I thought of one that would enable repairs to be made easily, in seconds. Moreover, my method would markedly reduce the likelihood of broken wires in cable bundles. I mention this to various Prusa reps and offered to give them that technology; so far, they don’t seem the slightest bit interested in seeing what I developed. The Prusa assembly manual admits that cable assembly is “difficult” - in fact, the most difficult aspect of assembling the printer. That should have been their first clue to rethink their needlessly backward cable management. I understand that isolated engineers can make myopic decisions but I don’t understand why those supervising them don’t realize the problems. In this case, to save intellectually lazy engineers a bit of thought (my solution was generated within seconds of pondering this issue), that problem was transferred onto every customer who bought this printer type. Good engineers solve problems so customers don’t experience them; bad engineers permit those problems to go out the door. This abysmal cable engineering persists year after year. With competitors rapidly gaining ground and often surpassing Prusa, their complacency will come to haunt them. Everyone who designs products should always question themselves, “Is there a better way?” In this case, there is a vastly better way.

OMFG I am LITERALLY running into this EXACT issue. I hope this solves my problem, just pulled my printer out of my enclosure!!

I've had the same problem in the past mine was one wire that goes in to a small hole on the heat block the wire only has a tiny peace of solder on it I just pushed it back in the hole

I've just had the same problem and I found the explanation in the "3d Printing Handbook". it says that the HOTEND temperature has dropped below 16deg C, unfortunately there is not mention how to fix it. Before wiggling or cutting wires I think the first logical thing to do is turn the power off and back on (I don't recall seeing that being mentioned anywhere), infact this didn't clear the error. I then pressed the reset and the error cleared. I think the fault must cause a toggle to set and turning the power off doesn't clear it, only an actual reset does.

thank you so much helped me alot ^^

Hi, I have four mk3 machines and one mk3s. All 5 were kits that I built. I've just had issues with both the hot end sensor and the build plate sensor. Both were intermittent broken wires on the mk3s which is a relatively new machine. I'm wondering if the wire used on the mk3s is different. I did use silicone wire for the repairs. I'll see what happens

I have almost same issue with my machine.Though the display screen shows temperature without any variation, the warning signal is seen .Kindly help me to fix it

It also happens 3 times on my Printing Fan. I am wondering if Prusa needs better cable, or is it how we wrap the cable ?

Sucks to see a new printer have that issue already. Silicone wire, very flexible, might be a good long term option.

This has just happened to me as well :/

my rpusa just gets this stupid heat bed spike from 60° to 300° and the printer stops, sometimes it prints with no problem and then all of a sudden 300°

How are you liking your prusa i3 mk3 the small company I intern for is looking for a good reliable printer that does not cost too much. I recommend the prusa i3 mk3. They make props for movies.

Gordan, you are my fav Star Wars related channel, can I email you regarding a possible Star Wars collaboration? Julie from Ireland.

Mine came out of the box with this MINTEMP error, and you want me to start cutting wires and soldering sh*t. This is f*stupid.