You can modify the wiring to change the state of the LED to light-when-pressed to always-on. The CY822B is similar to the more common Zero Delay boards (CY822A) with Common(+5v) & Trigger(pulled-low) but with the addition of Gnd(-ve). Your package contain plugs with yellow-black-red orientation which cause LED to light-when-pressed. If you switch the plugs with black-yellow-red orientation, they will cause LED to be always-on. Note: China does not always follow colour wiring standards, so 3-wire, Gnd is red and +5v can be black or yellow but, to be more confusing, 2-wire, Gnd is black and +5v is red. Remember circuit board outside edge is always common(+5V). This LED 3-wire insight was noted by another blogger from 2016. When holding an illuminated LED button looking at the back with SPST switch contacts on top, switch takes a signal, and common(+5V) wire in any order; below are LED contacts with Cathode(-ve/Gnd), and to the right, Anode(+5V). Remember that K1-K12 on the circuit board oriented from outer edge to centre is as follows: Common(+5v), Trigger(pulled-low), Gnd(-ve). The keys(buttons) for these boards are never shorted to ground but are short to Common(+5v) as triggers are all pulled-low in a non-pressed state. This is opposite to North American thinking where cars are common ground. You spin me right 'round, baby, right 'round.

Whats your Programm on the PC for the Buttons

how do you get the calibration

Have you tried those 104 keys encoder boards?

i uhave the same board. but what i am trying to do is get eatch button to replicate any specific key on my keyboard. for example, i want to push button "3" and it reads had the "n" key on my keyboard being pressed.

Have you been able to test two encoders?

So, in the case where 2 buttons have to be pressed at the same time for super power movesm would the problem be the encoder or the buttons themselves? Every button works and regular moves work... only when 2 have to be pressed at the same time.

I just got these and the buttons are way too small. I have an Arcade1Up cabinet and I was looking for LED buttons that would seemingly be the same size. Disappointed

Everyone used this for MAME (idk what's that but i'll assume it's something related to emulation) if anyone bought this for fighting games, is it worth it? I might get this as my first stick since it's the cheapest option i can get where i live and i only play fighting games

All the manufacturers that claim it works for Android, none of them tell you how to do it. It seems to me you CAN'T ! I have as of yet to find one single person having made any of these generic controller board to work with Android. An Android TV box would otherwise have been a great choice to build a cheap MAME setup with. But the whole joystick thing is a massive frustration. Raspberry PIs are stupid expensive right now, thanks to artificially aggravated "inflation" and "shortages" (quote quote). Seems building a Linux box using old parts is the way to go. Uses a lot of power and heat though, not liking that. But for crying out, SOMEONE show any of these controllers working on Android! And not some PS4 thing or other game pad. No. I'm talking those generic clicky arcade joysticks with the little controller boards they tend to come with. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Anyone?

Program for download ?

How do you connect a trackball to this?

if want the lights its always on what to do?

May I know how to connect a USB joystick to JAMMA harness? I just have the arcade board without the cabinet and I already found a RGB to VGA converter. Hopefully you can share your experience with me.

When I look these up they say they support PS2 and such. But how? PS2 used 2 joysticks. Im trying to make a custom Gamecube controller for Pi, but this only allows one Joystick.

If anyone knows how to improve the springs in the buttons please hit me up.

where can i buy that pcb ?.

You have it wired wrong

USELESS