I’ve been experimenting with this paper the last few months and here are a few notes you might find helpful: 1) Despite the Ilford datasheet claim of ISO rating between 1 and 3, the true ISO rating of this paper is 5 or 6 depending on your light. 2) As you have seen, this Direct Positive paper is very contrasty and the dynamic range is super thin in comparison to film, that means your exposure calculations need to be spot on as it’s really easy to blow your highlights or drastically under expose. In contrasty light I would treat a scene as if you were shooting slide film: Meter your highlights, meter your shadows then average the two readings out. Also, because you are shooting pinhole with typically longer than normal exposure times (I shoot mine through a Crown Graphic with standard 135mm lens) you may also be experiencing Reciprocity Failure with your exposure calculations. 3) For slightly tamer contrast overall on your paper you can try preflashing the paper if you have access to an enlarger though you will have to do step tests in order to determine your optimal preflash time. 4) Ilford’s suggested wash time for this paper is 60 minutes because this is a Fiber based paper which soaks up the chemistry much more than standard Resin coated paper. I’m not sure what improper washing means for the longevity/archivability of the paper, but from what I’m reading definitely do the 60min wash (I just let my paper soak in the tray for 30mins then place fresh water in the tray and let it soak the remaining 30mins). Film Photography Project does sell something called an Archival Wash (kinda like PhotoFlo) that is supposed to dramatically cut down wash times for Fiber prints, but I have not had a chance to purchase a bottle as of yet. 5) THIS PAPER CURLS A LOT!!! I used to hang dry the paper like my 4x5 film, but what I’ve started doing recently is placing wet prints on top of a window screen and then placing a second window screen on top to keep the paper as flat as I can while it dries. It’s Winter time here in America so having my heat on higher than normal means my paper dries in about 30-40mins. I then place the paper inside a book and stack a bunch of other books on top for added weight and that helps get them mostly flat enough for scanning. For the rare times that that didn’t work as well as I liked I placed the print on my ironing board, put a thin piece of cardboard over the print and then ran a clothes iron on high heat for short bursts of time. The heat also helps with flattening the paper (pretty much what a print presser does!). Good luck on your further experiments with the Harman Direct Positive! Also, looking forward to seeing the new camera you’ve got coming. Have a great weekend!

They have a lot of character to them, give off a very melancholic vibe, i love this idea

Interesting process shooting and developing positive paper! Have a nice week!

Love those images Will, just got my RSS 4x5z, hoping to shoot it this weeekend at a Christmas market, love your videos.

I use the direst positve paper for my interior shots. The exposures can go from 3 to 12 hours and the images have a very beautiful gothic look. Try developing also with film developer.

Thanks for the video. You have inspired me to try pinhole. I got a pinhole for my Intrepid 4x4 and I also got a steal on a RSS 6x17f. Hoping they turn out half as good as the images I see on your channel. Cheers.

As always very good video. It is difficult to handle negatives or in your case positives on paper, but very satisfactory when developing. When you place the paper on the support, I recommend you wear gloves, sometimes the grease from the fingers remains marked and is no longer removed. Today I upload new photos to Instagram, taken with my 4x5 with negative paper.

I am a beginner and I bought this paper and tested it with two different pinhole cameras built by myself by now. It is very frustrating :( I feel like I have such good material on my hands, but I have wasted about ten papers and still could not get any photos. I even had a 5h exposure time. Great video, I wish I can photograph like you someday!

#DPCWT2021 - looking forward to seeing what you do with the box!

J'aimerais porter à votre connaissance, que chez quelqu'un qui fait de l'offset qui est un parent de l'imprimerie, où on se sert encore de la photo avec l'agrandisseur au maximum sur sa plaque de base, pour avoir un objet bien déterminé. Entre le grain du 35 mm et la limite du couplage avec un léger flou. Pour le papier positif, après l'agrandisseur, dans le révélateur, si on fait deux ou 3 minutes, quelque chose se dissout ou part, et on a le positif direct. Je ne me souviens plus du temps de pose du papier.

Great video! I’ve got a box of this and wondering how to develop it. Which developer did you use here? I’ve no access to a darkroom and no prospect of converting a room atm, so will be developed in a Paterson tank if possible. Cheers!

Hey great video! what app to use for exposure?

What app that Ilford recommends do you use?

Not for me I afraid to say. Perhaps it would give better results using normal 4X5 camera and lenses and a soft developer. Is Selectol Soft still available?

I bought two packages of that paper and after the first test in a homemade pinhole camera, developed by caffeinol c, I was very surprised by the result, it was very shocking😐🙄, the image that appeared to me was a negative image, and it was not positive at all, and I was really stunned by that,, and I repeated Paper after paper, the same result, and I don't know where the mistake is!!? My steps were completely correct, so could it be a mistake from the factory, or what? I did not find any answer to convince myself with, and I stopped for fear of wasting paper. Who among you had this same strange situation, where is the problem, who has an answer to answer me, thank you🤔