Five Ten Hiangle Pro Review: The Champion's Choice

  Рет қаралды 16,444

Beor Ong

Beor Ong

Жыл бұрын

Gold medalist and world champion Janja Garnbret sports none other than the five ten hiangle pros, giving the climbing shoe world wide recognition and a reputation for top level completion climbing. Whether it be lead climbing, bouldering or even speed climbing, the renowned climber wears her five tens proudly for all disciplines.
#rockclimbing #bouldering #climbingshoes

Пікірлер: 87
@gabeg3493
@gabeg3493 Жыл бұрын
You are the best source for climbing shoe info by far!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
I try my best ❤️
@h-i-i-i
@h-i-i-i Жыл бұрын
How has this guy not got more followers. He's literally an icon!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
@jesuscontreras124
@jesuscontreras124 8 ай бұрын
He is not the most likeable person
@germanturkey
@germanturkey Жыл бұрын
Mad rock would be interesting. There aren’t many reviews of them. I’d love to see the Drago reviewed as well!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Dragos have been on my to get list for a while, i have a new sponsor coming up in the new year so more shoes are deff coming...the instinct vsr has also been highly requested
@germanturkey
@germanturkey Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng awesome! Keep up the good work. You’re a resource for the community.
@thesii213
@thesii213 Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng ooooh sponsors!
@ryanwallace3477
@ryanwallace3477 Жыл бұрын
I second mad rock. I would like to see a review of the drone CS
@zBeez
@zBeez Жыл бұрын
Throwing a vote in for the Shaman. My first real climbing shoe was a 2nd hand Shaman (2016) and I love it, but I'm curious about your opinion and to help with context with all your other reviews. Love the content and looking forward to more videos in 2023!
@jesuscontreras124
@jesuscontreras124 8 ай бұрын
I just bought a second hand shaman from that year. Its good to know its a popular choice. Cheers!
@Sanjuro333
@Sanjuro333 Жыл бұрын
I find they feel really great on sandstone. The outdoor area I normally climb in is mostly sandstone and they have amazing friction and the added sensitivity is great. I can see them not being preferable on harder and sharper rock though as your feet will probably be hurting and I can see the rubber being worn down quite easily on sharper and harder stuff. The regular Hiangles are nice if your climbing situation fits that description more. One thing about its more symmetrical design is that this shoe as well as the regular Hiangles fit my greek feet (longer second toe) very well. I think they are priced quite reasonably in comparison to other shoes, especially if you can find them on sale.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Yup sounds like the perfect shoe fit for you, the unparallel flagship you might like as well then...though the heel is kinda baggy on it so you might wanna opt for thr LV version but personally i think its much higher quality overall
@AlexVanRhoads
@AlexVanRhoads Жыл бұрын
Great review! I like the "Non-comp" version fo the Hiangles for their mild stiffness, good to know that this shoes are on the softer side.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Yeah i think the non comp would fix a lot of the issues i had with this shoe. Feels like this is almost pointless when id rather have the all rounder lol...but again thats my personal preference more than anything
@sorryforthat4792
@sorryforthat4792 Жыл бұрын
You need to make more vids dude, youre super entertaining
@Sajuuk9
@Sajuuk9 Жыл бұрын
Review the Shamans first please! just got them for Christmas, really wanne know what you think about them, they are my fav atm.
@Boris.Kalita
@Boris.Kalita 2 ай бұрын
The Janja ‘clip’ has to be one of my favorites on youtube 🤣🤣🤣
@atherismagic4639
@atherismagic4639 Жыл бұрын
Another great review! I've worn a pair of hiangle pros for the last eight months or so and have been loving them given that I pretty much only climb indoors, but I can definitely attest that using small edges is painful as hell. Given my situation they're perfect, but I can definitely attest for what you've said! P.S. I would be super duper interested to hear what you think of the madrock drones you mentioned! I've seen the super-sticky rubber advertised but I'd love to see what you think of the shoe as a whole.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
In the middle of breaking em in and so far looks like its winning in what the people want reviewed first
@thesii213
@thesii213 Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng Noooooo (I like Evolv)
@Phampham453
@Phampham453 Жыл бұрын
Another request for mad rock please
@SpeciesV1X
@SpeciesV1X Жыл бұрын
Great review!
@ethannewman6617
@ethannewman6617 Жыл бұрын
Hey! I think you’ve reviewed the Butora Gomi a while back, and I was wondering how these or the white Hiangles compare in feel and fit especially in the heel. Thank you in advance if you see this comment I really love your content!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Unfortuantely I havent reviewed the gomis yet, I think the hiangles have a better heel overall though, the heel design of the hiangles at least for the powerband is quite tight which I really like. The gomis Id say arent a bad shoe by any stretch, but they are hard to break in because of all the rubber and stiffer than the hiangles so they make for a great outdoor shoe
@user-dh9ff3sd9e
@user-dh9ff3sd9e 2 ай бұрын
When will the shoe be available again? it is no longer available worldwide.
@null_t828
@null_t828 Жыл бұрын
I wish you could buy five ten more readily in Australia :(
@DrachenBlasen
@DrachenBlasen Жыл бұрын
So curious about the madrock cs comp, there's nothing out about those shoes and i want to know how they compare against a Theory or a Drago
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Im still breaking them in, but Im taking them outdoor over the next weekend so that review will be coming up soon
@adrienl4949
@adrienl4949 Жыл бұрын
I've seen multiple review saying that the no-edge technology of la sportiva doesn't change a thing. However, i have futura and solution comp, and i have to say that the difference is cristal clear to me ! Maybe it depends on how the last of the shoe fit your foot
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Indoor or outdoor? and regarding toe or the rolling sides? Ive heard that they perform much better on granite where theres a lot of small weirdly sloped tiny pockets to smedge in, but down here sandstone is the majority of climbing outdoors so its benefit feels somewhat unneeded
@youssefyoussry7429
@youssefyoussry7429 Жыл бұрын
The man, the legend.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
The Youssef
@smithy1557
@smithy1557 Жыл бұрын
you should totally review Scarpa chimera
@seanlim5447
@seanlim5447 Жыл бұрын
Finally! Another buy! Addiction is rising
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Nah man theorys for you lol
@ebbotdahlberg7996
@ebbotdahlberg7996 Жыл бұрын
your vidios are so high qualety! how do you not have more subs?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
People are racist...lol jks jks
@SiIentAzn
@SiIentAzn Жыл бұрын
This video was hilarious 😂 love those roasts lol
@Moo1401
@Moo1401 10 ай бұрын
So what are the best shoes in terms of edging?
@JamesDel0610
@JamesDel0610 5 ай бұрын
I'm edging even when the shoes come off🤤
@michaelesparza2439
@michaelesparza2439 Жыл бұрын
Throwing my vote in for the Drone Comps since Evolv is about to release the Shaman Pros. I have a few pairs of the Teal Hiangles both pre- and post-Adidas and I can say the post-Adidas pairs that I own have the most quality and sizing inconsistencies.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Huehue the shaman pros are already on their way so the shamans have been sidelined in favor of comps so i can bundle it together =)
@Steezypm
@Steezypm Жыл бұрын
Shaman!! Review forsure would love to hear your opinion:)
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Its coming soon, script is all written out, most of the footage is done, just awaiting my shaman pros to finish off the review
@thesii213
@thesii213 Жыл бұрын
And hate to be the actually guy here but... the no-edge "wrap" on the sides actually seems to limit flexion slightly as it's harder to "bend" the wrapped rubber. This is not so apparent just handling the shoe, but slightly more apparent in wearing it. I was skeptical of this as well, but talked to a designer on the old MP and he confirmed it. Don't love the front toe no-edge though. Also, how do you think the edging here compares to the Acro Comp?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
I prefer the acro comp to be honest, the hiangles feel better overall, but bang for buck acro takes the win. Edging wise same deal the acros take it with a slightly stiffer midsole that help with support and the rubber stickiness id say is comparible so like i said overall acro just wins out of the value you pay for
@thesii213
@thesii213 Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng Nice! I've been waiting on a rumored Acro refresh, but might just have to pull the trigger sometime soon.
@joosemoose1727
@joosemoose1727 Жыл бұрын
drone comp review when?
@dude_with_hammer5618
@dude_with_hammer5618 Жыл бұрын
I'd love to see the Mad Rocks
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
On the way
@jeremymcintyre5316
@jeremymcintyre5316 Жыл бұрын
Mad rock drone please!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Seems like its winning out in votes
@the.Aruarian
@the.Aruarian Жыл бұрын
One of my many issues with 5.10/Adidas as a brand is longevity: if you find a model you like, you have a max of 2 years before they discontinue it. And then the new model is completely different. I found a pair of the older Hiangles (light grey/dark grey/blue stretch), which were my perfect comfort shoe. Easy to get in, plenty of performance. Fast forward to the latest releases and I couldn't even get my heel in. Also, never pay full price for Adidas, they have 40% off sales with ludicrous frequency. Aesthetically I rather like them, esp the Dragons (discontinued in 2020 I believe), Aleon and Crawe. I do get the feeling that since being taken over by Adidas, the shoe designs makes them less resoleable. So if sustainability/durability is a concern, avoid.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
If you want the old 5.10 fit id take a look at unparallel, since most of their shoe design team went there instead =)
@v0atmygym734
@v0atmygym734 Жыл бұрын
Idk how reliable the stats chart you showed for stealth rubber is. There are charts of the same design for vibram and TRAX rubber and they show that xs grip 2 is grippier than TRAX SAS. And I understand that you believe TRAX SAS is grippier. Just wanted to let you know this!
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
I pulled it off another website for visual aid, but this is true, I do believe trax is stickier than xsgrip 2. I think xsgrip 2 is a great all rounder rubber but I just prefer overall grip and resoling
@demoniccat1005
@demoniccat1005 Жыл бұрын
Just copped some shamans, would like to hear your opinions
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
review will be coming soon, but I will say I love em (as an outdoor shoe, not so much as an indoor one)
@sirporkrib7643
@sirporkrib7643 Жыл бұрын
I totally can't get how anyone fit into such a show where the toebox is pointing towards the middle... Where is your big toe supposed to be? Can anyone educate me?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Some people have a bigger second toe than their big toe so its more center aligned so these types of shoes just fit better for them
@sirporkrib7643
@sirporkrib7643 Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng So basically their second toe is aligned with the pointy part of the tow box and all other toes are bent not just down but inward too?
@cillijed4291
@cillijed4291 Жыл бұрын
janja actually uses the old hiangle just modified to look like the new ones
@Jackwithoneeye
@Jackwithoneeye Жыл бұрын
I wouldn't really say it's a shoe worn by Janja when she wears the standard hiangle for pretty much everything . I can't even think of an adidas comp athlete who actually wears these over the standard hiangles. I'm hearing mixed things about wether or not Adidas will stay in the climbing shoe game. I hope they do as if they start to understand the market better they have the resources to make some really sick shoes.
@21nGG
@21nGG Жыл бұрын
Not true. She wears the hiangle pro Tokyo colour way which resembles the normal hiangle more than the standard black hiangle pro.
@mewewewe2839
@mewewewe2839 Жыл бұрын
Yanick Flohe
@Damianator13
@Damianator13 Жыл бұрын
Yoshiyuki Ogata Kokoro Fujii Miho Nonaka (tokyo edition) Max Milne Domen Skofic
@babsds0
@babsds0 Жыл бұрын
@@Damianator13 Add Toby Roberts to the list too now.
@spidery1700
@spidery1700 Жыл бұрын
W review
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
W viewer
@provuksmc6619
@provuksmc6619 Жыл бұрын
Do the gomi pleeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaassssseeeeeeeee! Or the mastia 😁😁😁
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
Gomi i should be able to get a pair for free with my new sponsor so that should definitely be in the pipeline
@provuksmc6619
@provuksmc6619 Жыл бұрын
@@BeorOng yessssssssssssss 😁😁😁😁😁😁
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
@@provuksmc6619 doing my best to get more and more reviews done, thanks for the support =)
@maayazi
@maayazi 6 ай бұрын
Soooo is Five Ten dead now?
@SammyMakepeace
@SammyMakepeace Жыл бұрын
0:56 HAHAHAHAHAHAH
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Жыл бұрын
If you are a world champion, adidas is the one brand that will pay you 4x times as much as any other brand. Thats the sole reason she wears them.
@BeorOng
@BeorOng Жыл бұрын
yup, unfortunately shoe brands just dont pay well... the sponsors that do are the ones that do other things -- redbull and northface mostly and they dont even make climbing shoes so climbers and shoe sponsors are mostly choosing by which shoes they actually like but adidas is just a high payout sponsor so who knows when it comes to the hiangles
@DeFausti
@DeFausti Ай бұрын
I'm not buying any 5.10 stuff since they moved production/ownership
@marcusstirling1385
@marcusstirling1385 Жыл бұрын
Sorry but janja doesn't use modern hi angles. She gets custom 5.10s that's are the old Hiangle in the new black and white colour. If you look close it's clear to see she's not using addias 5.10 Hiangle or pro
@chary3077
@chary3077 Жыл бұрын
She does use the hiangle pro. It’s the Tokyo edition that come in white
@cillijed4291
@cillijed4291 Жыл бұрын
anyway adidas are going to stop making climbing shoes soon enough all the suppliers are saying it
@ezequielcapaceta
@ezequielcapaceta Жыл бұрын
Do you really love curry?
@BeorOng
@BeorOng 11 ай бұрын
I do... I went out to get some coco curry in tokyo at like 3am in the morning because...well I love curry lol
@Alessandromarangoni123
@Alessandromarangoni123 Жыл бұрын
Adidas ten 😂
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