Scarpa Furia Air Review: The World's LIGHTEST Climbing Shoe

Рет қаралды 17,475

2 жыл бұрын

The next best thing to climbing barefoot, the Scarpa furia airs are the lightest and most sensitive shoe on the market weighing in at only 150g per shoe.
If you want to try climbing like Reel Rock's Charles Albert but still want that little bit of extra protection and grip that climbing shoes can provide there's nothing better than the super light Scarpa Furia Airs
Thinking of picking up a pair? Buy them here:
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
#Bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing

Пікірлер: 56

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

07:48 I meant Drago camp (my bad lol)

@jackolsson9450 2 жыл бұрын

Really great quality content as always man. You deserve more recognition💪

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

One day hopefully haha but thanks man =) appreciate it

@robertrider9845 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the review!!! Love the vids as always man.

@robertrider9845 2 жыл бұрын

also, did the furia air keep its downturn over time?

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Honestly its so soft the downturn doesnt matter at all

@brianogrady6579 2 жыл бұрын

Been rocking the furia airs as my go to performance cycle shoe for the better part of 4 years now. Never really noticed any issues with small chips! I think the extra feeling from the thinner rubber actually increases performance if you weight your feet right. Definitely noticed the heel sag too but I also wear them in my street shoe size 🤷🏻‍♂️ great video really enjoyed someone else’s thoughts on these! Highly recommend for static climbers looking to improve their footwork over time

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Dude your toe strength must be insane if you dont notice the chips on your toes lol. I do still like the shoes, just definitely not my go to for my full send attempts

@maxmiller488 2 жыл бұрын

you really helped my friend to decide buying new climbing shoes! Thanks 😊

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

I calculated my spend and im at over 2k in climbing shoes lol

@MisterMcGibblets 6 ай бұрын

i’ve been having a blast with my tear, doing a mixture of gym climbing and sport climbing/friction slab climbing up to 10A! Fun fact: Colin Haley has been using sized up Furias Alpine climbing up in Patagonia!

@danielcohen1718 2 жыл бұрын

Great video! I’d love to see a comparison between these and the new la sportiva mantra. They both weigh 150g and are built to serve the same purpose but I’m really interested in seeing the differences in each brands execution

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Id say the mantra would fit my foot profile better, but i havent been a big supporter of no edge so for me it wouldnt really serve much of a purpose in the lineup. If anything i might get some mantras as a slipper or the cobra 4.99s for speed climbing lol

@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын

Dope review, dope shirt, 10/10 overall How would you say they compare in to the Theory's in terms of sensitivity? Are they more sensitive than the no-edge tech?

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

theorys arent bad in sensitivity, but the no edge stuff is more on the side of the foot than anything else, I prefer having less sensitivity on the theory overall though cause these are just absolutely painful especially on small edges. Feels like my toe nails were ripping out on that red traverse at the gym lol

@joshuango1981 2 жыл бұрын

I loved the Furia Airs, even at my home gym where they do not set very many comp style boulders. The only thing I did not like about them, and also the main reason why I eventually went with the Dragos, was the velcro. The straps and velcro did not age well since they were so small. They were fine at first but after a few months they would come unstrapped very frequently mid-climb, even tried cleaning the velcro but that did not seem to help at all. I would likely swap back to these if Scarpa ever redesigned the straps so that they are more secure and don't come unstrapped so easily while climbing. Otherwsie, they are an amazing shoe. Would highly recommend to any one that is looking for a minimalist quiver shoe.

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

thats really interesting, I havent had that issue at all, ive heard a trick with velcro you can try is to run a lighter through it to essentially recurl the catch parts, might help

@joshuango1981 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng i tried doing that, only fixed the problem temporarily. had to recurl/clean the velcro after a couple sessions. Was just less of a headache to swap to a different model. Don't get me wrong tho, I love the Dragos but wish I could've stuck with the Furia Airs.

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

@@joshuango1981 ah fair fair, yeah personally i like having them almost like my comfy slip ons. Just for me hard to justify the cost as a non projecting shoe. I think remoras fit the bill a bit better in that regard

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog Жыл бұрын

I bought mine a couple of years ago and initially downsized by a full shoe size after watching magnus’ video with Heinz and Nathan from scarpa (Heinz designed the shoe and said that when sizing to go down by a size to a size and a half at the most) A couple of years later and they’re a little bigger than I’d like so I think that ideal sizing is to go down a size and a half) as these aren’t meant to be edging shoes but more so allow the foot to sit relatively flat.

@BeorOng Жыл бұрын

For sure, the shoe is pretty much ideal for running on volumes and toeing down on steep but for me thats about it which makes it a hard shoe to get behind other than for very specific purposes. Which not bad if you have the money to buy multiples but definitely wouldnt be my one and done

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

Good work Beor! I'd be curious to hear if your opinions on these change over time. They sound like a *very* distinct shoe. Also is the Zenist on the horizon?

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Im torn on the zenist on whether I want them or not, I've heard mixed reviews on em so I feel like I have nothing to really add to the convo cause Id rather buy shoes that either Id wear or a lot of people are wondering about (trying to get my hands on the madrock rovers atm)

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng That's understandable, though I thought the Zenist might be a neat comparison to the similarly constructed Theory and the similar looking Skwama. Also if you're ever interested in doing a comprehensive review on shoe rubber I have a secret list of durometers around here somewhere. I had to find a lot of old resole catalogues to put it together.

@parptarf 2 жыл бұрын

I'm considering getting something super soft when my Phantoms are in for a resole. Mostly been thinking about the Mastia, Veloce or Zenist. But maybe I'll give these a go. Or just use my UppMoccs for something other than indoor crack climbing.

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

The zenists ivr heard mixed reviews, some ppl like em, some people hate em. Veloce are slightly stiffer than the furia air...that being said everything is stiffer than the furia airs lol

@thesii213 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng Oh no! What bad things have you heard about the Zenist?

@william9394 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome video! Could you do a comparison between the Scarpa Drage and the La sportiva Theory?

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting idea, i think the two are pretty apples and oranges though, theyre kind of built for different purposes so I think the video would br quite random in a way

@ben900911 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng In my opinion, comparison to Scarpa Drago, the FiveTen Hiangle Pro is more similar to La Sportiva Theory. lol Both have no edge on inside and differentiated thicknesses sole for toe.

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

@@ben900911 for sure, and ill be talking about that when I get to the hiangles as well

@djHolthusen 2 жыл бұрын

Do you recommend any good shoes for sport climbing indoors? Anyway, keep up the good work. Really helpfull videos🙌🏻

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks man, and interesting request, id say most shoes that would be good for outdoor sport would be good for indoors. Depending on how hard youre climbing id go katanas or for more comfort tc pros, otherwise for a more projecty climb we head into bouldering territory so maybe genius' but im not the biggest fan of em so solutions (original) would be a good choice too

@robertrider9845 2 жыл бұрын

ive heard that the pythons are great for indoor climbing, although you will need a strong foot for them.

@RpSKhaira 2 жыл бұрын

My go to shoe for ceilings (roof) climbing and over hangs that are about parallel to the ground

@fjorland_norsk3996 4 ай бұрын

what makes you prefer this one compared to other shoes in overhangs?

@Jackwithoneeye 2 жыл бұрын

Great review as always . The furias are a very cool pair of shoes but like you said very specialised as I don't do too much comp style climbing , mainly boards in the gym tbh I could never justify purchasing a pair . Have you seen the upcoming la sportiva mantras ? They seem to be the same weight as the furias and I think with the no edge the durability will probably be better . Would make for an interesting comparison. I am currently using the new 2022 instinct S which is an awesome slipper maybe another $hoe to add to your list lol .

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

I saw the instinct S and was very much contemplating, the issue is scarpa have consistently made pretty narrow toe boxes so a lot of their shoes just do not fit my foot very well. Id say the mantra would be better up going against the slipper category so it would be up against remoras, and the instinct S but at the moment Im still very much a hard bouldering nut so toe crunching tightness is still my go to purchases. I have the flagships, the hi angle pros, and boostics, still left to review and after that most likely going in with the Shamans, free range pros, and maybe the solutions eventually lol

@brianogrady6579 2 жыл бұрын

I’m basically primarily a board climber and the furia airs have been nothing but high performance for me 🤷🏻‍♂️

@jonasrogn1216 2 жыл бұрын

Flagship up next? Really excited about those, but havent been able to try them

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Flagships are indeed next, but a couple of vids will be coming out before that one

@seanturner3573 2 жыл бұрын

Styling aside, could you expand on your thoughts on the Dragos in comparison to these? I'm considering a pair but no physical stores near me carry them so Im not sure how they would feel, though I have tried on a pair of Furia Airs. Also great video, I love your reviews!

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Honestly they feel pretty similiar all up, the furia airs without the power strip that the furia S and the dragos have makes it more flexible and soft overall so those 2 shoes just have a bit more stiffness overall that makes it in my opinion more useable for more situations. Again overall these shoes are just super soft, like a sock, so much so that even though they arent wide toe boxed its not really painful at all

@robertrider9845 2 жыл бұрын

Probably a tough question, but do you have an overall favourite climbing shoe?

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Actually pretty easy, the theorys are a stand out

@Nobodyeverybody24 2 жыл бұрын

Can you review the madrock drone shoes

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

So, one of the gyms around the area is gearing up to stock all the madrocks -- Ill let you pick, drones, redlines, or sharks (I 100% am going to get the rovers as well just out of curiosity) but are the drones the ones youre most curious about?

@Nobodyeverybody24 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng Yes. The drones are the ones I am most curious about. Thanks for replying

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

@@Nobodyeverybody24 drones it is, ill grab a pair when the gym gets it in, vid probably wont be for a while though since ill still have to break them in and test them but will deffs add it to the pipeline

@Nobodyeverybody24 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng Thank you

@Nobodyeverybody24 2 жыл бұрын

@@BeorOng I did hear they take a while to break in

@davidli5927 2 жыл бұрын

Have you tried the new Ocun ozone? I think we have a similar foot shape and they fit me perfectly! Would be glad to hear your opinion about them :)

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting, been considering trying ocun for a while cause i have no experience with them. Ill do a bit of research on which shoe ill go for haha

@DavidSchilter 2 жыл бұрын

Good call. I have wide feet, so use the Ozone Plus as my general shoe and Skwama as my squishier shoe. Just tried the Unparallel Flagship and it's also a beast, comparable to the Skwama.

@BeorOng 2 жыл бұрын

@@DavidSchilter interesting descriptions ill have to add ocun to the list