Go slow... persistence and patience. And thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.

Thank you.

Thank you for the suggestion.

you are welcome. Thank you for considering my suggestion. A lot of 35 sp would be happy.

A very good and important question!

I guess it is kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good site to watch new tv shows online ?

@Angelo Griffin i use Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)

@Dennis Gunnar yup, been using Flixzone for months myself =)

@Dennis Gunnar thank you, I went there and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!

Might be fun to give it a try. Go slow... persistence and patience. If nothing else you will find out what it looks like inside and you can always put it back on the shelf with a little more intimate knowledge of at the very list a great conversation piece. Oh and thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.

UncontrolleDperson good question

If you are shooting only shooting a few rolls a month and the adjustment only required a mild increase in tension the camera will be fine... barring in other issues.

Fix Old Cameras thanks for the reply. I probably only shoot one roll a month, haha.

Seep some isoprophyl alcohol around the contact and see if it won't loosen and pop up.

"the handle selector wheel" does that refer to the advance lever on the right side of the camera or the rewind knob on the left side of the camera or the shutter speed dial or the ASA knob? If it is the rewind knob than perhaps their is film in the camera that has reached its end and the rewind release knob on the front right upper side of the camera needs to be released so that you are then able to turn the rewind knob to rewind the film in the direction of the arrow on the rewind knob lever.

Not clear on what is not working. But if the camera is not turning on check the removal battery grip. If there is any signs of hidden corrosion, submerge in clear vinegar for 15 minutes than flush with water followed by alcohol. If corrosion as attacked the plating of the contacts they will need to be burnished also.

Thank you for the suggestion. Sure they are cheap to buy, but that is not always the point. Some times it is good to just to "keep'em going" and be in control of your stuff.

@@FixOldCameras Yup totally agree! I'de love to clean/service and repair mine, It's just tough to find any guides on servicing/disassembling one :) thanks!

It sounds like the shutter's second curtain does not release after the first curtain's travel fires the flash via the flash contacts. Probably the only way to use the flash in question is by blocking all but the center contact post and the ground contact on the shoe and foot. Or... perhaps the flash has a PC cord connection. You might also be concerned on the odd reaction of the camera's shutter from the connectivity of what appears to be an incompatible flash. It is odd and possibly a previously unknown issue.

@@FixOldCameras What you are describing above is indeed what is happening. I checked again and U were on point. I quickly grabbed some tape and tried covering the contact posts... And it works right off the bat!!

Do not know, it is possible. Maybe your public library and the Interlibrary Loan service.

@@FixOldCameras thanks for your answer. Once I'm back in LA, I'll check that out.

eBay?

You are welcome and thank you for your continued interest in FOC.

Thank you for your fun comments and for taking the time from making a living cleaning, lubing and adjusting Leica cameras to show interest in the Fix Old Cameras channel and sharing your opinion as to the validity and usefulness of the information presented. However, the adjustment procedures outlined in this and other FOC videos are substantiated and outlined on the pages of model specific NATCAM manuals and a general Leica Shutter manual. FOC has never made any claim to be a factory expert or factory trained for any brand of camera. NatCam training and factory seminars not with standing as they frankly are irrelevant to the reasons FOC was founded. Read the channel “about” statement for clarification. “Fix Old Cameras produces step by step up close videos of simple, common repairs and basic maintenance on classic and vintage cameras. Work a-rounds and short cuts that might go outside of typical camera repair procedures are also demonstrated. These techniques are not always considered a permanent fix, but allow for someone with limited tools and experience the possibility of getting their camera functioning again.” A note on CLA . Although CLA is an initialism that gets pitched about - in and of itself it is often a waste of time and money as preventive maintenance. As opposed to actually addressing and repairing an issue. Repairing the problem might include stripping gummy old lubricate and applying modern lubricant appropriate for the application. It might entail adjusting a fatigued spring to give it the needed tension to regain functionality. Therefore in an isolated position a CLA repair is performed as needed and not a CLA of the entire camera as is often claimed. Another separate note on wrenching a cars. Much satisfaction and innovation is derived from wrenching on your classic show car or the daily driver regardless of any official training... a wrench is a wrench. There is no doubt the modern cars require far less maintenance but there are still repairs that can be done without any factory training. But it is usually wrenching the classics that gives the most satisfaction and the feeling of mastery of your “stuff”. This too applies to the repair of cameras passed down from grandparents, parents, family members and friends as well as to newly acquired cameras. It is an element of this discovery and autonomy, regardless of economics, or perceived prestige of a particular camera brand, to maintain, repair and use these elegantly engineered cameras of old not just for their beauty and eccentricities but for their practicality as a picture taking tool.

Where would you send a Leica to for a cla or repair in 2020 ?

Nicholas Fanzo I offer Leica services, shoot me a direct message for the details!

Jadon Broberg-Rosado will do, don’t need a cla yet, but I have an m3 and m6

Fix Old Cameras a fatigued spring can also break if tension is applied prior to lubrication as it can act as a glue holding it in place. It’s very irresponsible to just tighten the spring when your shutter won’t travel the full focal plane, the shutter is slow because the spring is gummed up and the main roller bearings are dry. Adding excess tension rather than properly addressing the issue leads to long term wear. On top of all that a shutter tester is needed to properly balance the travel times to ensure an accurate exposure, if you over tighten the trailing curtain you risky jamming the shutter or having it “cap” (no image). If you have access to the said manuals you should know that there are fine tolerances that must be met for the camera to operate at its full potential. I understand the satisfaction of fixing something but I make sure I know what I’m doing before I pull it apart as it can bring upon unintended consequences. And in my experience if the the lubrication is the shutter is need of lubrication I find that the rest of the systems also need to be addressed. There’s no point in having an accurate shutter if your slow speed escapement is dry or your wind stack is out of time. I’m not trying to be rude or condescending but I can’t stand by and watch people destroy their beloved leicas, I’ve had several customers come to me with broken shutter springs after watching your video.