Oh good to hear it! Ya, took me a bit to figure out what was going on the first time too. Thanks for subscribing helps me out. I'm almost to 1000! 😁

Oh great! Really glad the video helped. Sometimes I think these videos are a waste of time. haha

You're welcome. I'm just happy it has helped others out. 😊

You're welcome. Glad it helped

That's great to hear! 👍 I didn't know if anyone would even watch this video. Haha

Oh nice! Glad my little video helped out. :)

Oh nice! That's great! 👍 Sounds like you were having a hard time with it for awhile.

burned out a glow plug trying to get it going and had a thermal runaway once when it finally lit because it was full of fuel! Exhaust pipe glowed red hot for 20 minutes with no fuel injecting.

@@janmessek1826 Wow! That sounds exciting. Never had mine run away like that. 😬

Ya, my RV's propane furnace held up for me during my downtime with the diesel heater. But now I have to fix or replace the blower motor motor in the propane furnace. Bearings are shot and it's making a lot of annoying noise.

I tried starting fluid, we don't have Nulons ‘Start ya bastard’ in the states. but I assume it's the same thing, either. And IT WORKED!! not the safest thing in the world, I probably used a little too much. it backfired a little through the intake and then fired right up. thank you for the idea.

@@tomgrist2062 there’s another product called aerostart, similar idea. Yeah I caused mine to backfire a few times but when all else fails 😀🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺

@@Cammo-vp1gl I thank it is not putting out the heat it used to and I will have to clean it. mine is less than a month old but I did burn used motor oil in it. it worked great until it didn't work at all.

@@tomgrist2062 From day one mine has smoked badly, I thought the problem was voltage drop but, I measured it with a voltmeter and volts were good. It still smokes on every start up. Since my original comment, sometimes the trick with 'start ya bastard' hasn't worked so I bought a new glow plug but, the weather is warming up here and I haven't tried the new plug. My unit seems to send too much fuel and floods the chamber. I am at the point where, come winter next year (I'm in Australia) if it still isn't starting first time I am going to piss it off and buy a Webasto, Eberspatcher or the like. When it does fire up, it's the best thing since sliced bread. Never thought of using engine oil, good thinking!

@@Cammo-vp1gl I think using engine oil is what caused my problem. if I were you, I would try blowing in the intake with a small shop vac while it is trying to start. if that doesn't work, remove your glow plug and clean the screen. I switched back to Red diesel only and it seems to be working.

Nice job! You'll probably have to disassemble it pretty soon and give it a good cleaning inside the combustion chamber.

Yes, you're right. I didn't know there was a bigger screen down there for a while because my chamber was welded, and I couldn't see it very easily. I accidentally pulled the screen out of place and damaged it while cleaning it, thinking it was carbon that had built up back there. It's super hard to clean. I think you could probably burn it clean in a really hot, clean fire if left in there long enough. Probably some type of chemical could clean it too. 🤷 I've learned that if I tun the air fuel mixture to be leaner, it prevents the carbon from building up. Makes a huge difference. Factory settings seem to be a little too rich for me, but then again, I'm at 3000 feet elevation.

Check to make sure your exhaust pipe isn't plugged up anywhere. Could also be air pockets in the fuel line that are working its way out.

That's a good question. I'm not sure, but it makes sense that it would throw the air/fuel mixture off.

It may be running too rich. Or if it runs most of the time in the low speed mode it will cause it to clog up inside. I only run mine at full throttle now, and I tuned the fuel mixture to run leaner (less fuel more air, or less pump pulses per minute)

I tried that and it didn't work. The diesel fuel needs to gravity feed down into the burn chamber. It will also leak out when turned off.

It needs more air. The exhaust pipe might be plugged or restricted. You might need to disassemble it and clean out the combustion chamber.

That sound familiar. Mine would do that too often. I finally figured out that if you only run the heater on full blast and just turn it off after it's warmed the place up for you, it will not cause it to get dirty and blocked up inside. Also, you need to adjust the pump speed down so it burns leaner (less fuel and more air). If you do this it will just keep working without having to clean things out all the time. I bought an aftermarket controller call the Afterburner so now it turns itself on and off to maintain the set temperature. afterburner.mrjones.id.au Hope this helps.

Ya, that could be an issue. The bigger problem I ended up having is that the condensation from the heaters exhaust was freezing inside the motorhomes exhaust pipe and ended up plugging it completely with solid ice.

It's completely sealed from the inside meaning if you blow air (or engine exhaust) backwards through the diesel Heather's exhaust pipe it will go through the heaters combustion chamber and exit to the outside of the vehicle through the heaters combustion intake tube. If everything is installed and clamped down properly there's no chance that any exhaust will get inside the vehicle and poison the occupants.

@@SpoonerTuner Thinking about it know you are correct, thanks for the reply and i have installed one of these heaters in my basement to compliment my central heating, i live in a very small house and it's working perfectly.

@@kpc5 nice. Same here. I gave the motor home back to my mom and now I'm in the single wide trailer house. My diesel heater is my only heat source for the moment until I can get a wood stove in here. It's doing pretty good though

Of that happens it would just push the exhaust back out through the intake tube which is also plumbed to the outside of the RV. So no exhaust would get into the inside of the RV in that case.

Big thanks for your valuable straight forward information. Much better than most having to listen what they had for breakfast ect. Willemog.

Thanks. I hadn't heard of the tubing causing the atomizer screen to foul up. I but I did already switch over to hard nylon lines because they don't crack and cause leaks. From what I understand it gets plugged up because of an incorrect fuel mixture and letting the heater run cooler at the slower idle speed too long. I'll check out that video you shared. 👍

@@SpoonerTuner Here is another video from John explaining the importance of proper fuel atomization and the components which support ignition. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/adWfpNWDuc6mf30.html There are a few key factors required for consistent firing of these heaters. 1st is clean air supply at the upstream end of the atomizer screen, this is why you always want to replace the plastic inlet noise dampener with an actual air filter. 2nd is sufficient heat for combustion, provided by a properly heated glow plug, 3rd is a clean surface with properly sized openings to allow large fuel droplets to be reduced to a fine mist of fuel, which is the screens job, lastly the fuel needs to be delivered in a manner to take advantage of the entire surface area of the screen. Using a large bore soft tubing allows the small cavitation air bubbles created by the pump, to collect and form large air bubbles. since air is compressible, those bubbles steal some of the pumps ability to deliver fuel to the screen with force, allowing the fuel to be distributed evenly onto the entire surface of the screen. The soft tubing also steals this ability from the pump, but in an opposite manner, it expands preventing the force applied by the pumps piston from being realised at the delivery point, by absorbing the force all along it's length with this slight expansion. the result is the fuel is delivered with virtually no force and is oozed or dribbled onto a very limited surface area of the screen, resulting in a very rich mixture in a very small area of the ignition chamber and a very lean mixture in the majority of the ignition chamber. The wet, or very rich area will be a point of very inefficient burn, leaving carbon by product or soot on the immediately surrounding surfaces of the screen. Any debris in the air streaming across this surface will tend to collect on the wetted, irregular soot deposits, thereby making the situation worse. apologies for the lengthy reply. 🙂

Ya, they can be a real pain. If the mixture is tuned lean and you always run them full throttle they do much better in my experience. But ya, the build quality sucks. The bearings in them seem to get loud after about a year of use. I changed my bearings out for some high-quality Japanese ones.

@@SpoonerTuner yes I have similar problem right now , but my older one that lasted two or 3 months actually might have had the mixture way out from what it should have been, I’m not 100% sure about the air intake, but now I purchased a brand new one and soon as I fired it up guess what the bearings are not right the thing is making a terrible noise wearling sound extremely loud definitely not catching on anything it’s definitely the bearings but the flaming thing is brand new all I can think is that they must’ve not put them in correctly

I use mine as a backup heat source for when I'm not home. It turns on and off automatically and keeps temps just above freezing so my pipes don't freeze. So it's well worth it for me and others. Just depends on a person's situation. Now, I mostly use wood heat when I'm home.

Ya, but it needed repaired anyway. And I know how to weld and so it wasn't really a problem. I just wanted to test out the idea to see if I could extract the extra wasted heat.