The “storage” tank is marked “not for fuel” for EPA purposes. It doesn’t have the shut off cap that is on all the stupid red fuel cans now so it can’t be sold as a gas tank.

He’s fixing all the problems… But he’d rather b welding

Chris, Rectifier will get HOT when NOT grounded to a plate to HEAT SINK it..... Rectifier HAS TO BE mounted to a GROUND PLATE on the Frame to remove HEAT and to be able to rectify properly. BATT will get up to 14V sometimes. The Battery will only PULL AMPS it needs. BE SURE to put a FUSE between BATTERY CHARGE WIRE and RECTIFIER!!!!

Great videos. That oil pump has an oil line going to a bearing. I would put the oil tank back in and hook the oil pump back up. If there is an oil line going to a bearing, the engineers did it for a reason. Adding some oil to the line now and then probably won't help much. That fuel jug, unless fuel reacts with the plastic and melts it. It is labeled that way for liability issues. Does not have EPA's maximum spill system 😂.

You NEED the oil pump on that engine!! Splash lube from the premix will not reach the outer pto bearing. Polaris tried that already and then added the 4th oil line direct to the pto bearing. Oil pumps are very reliable, millions of engines run with them working for many miles. I have been working on sleds since the 70s and have yet to see a pump fail but if it were to fail they are designed to fail wide open. Water and debris in the oil tank and system will cause oil starvation but if kept clean you will not have a injection pump problem. I suspect you did not bleed the pump properly or at all which will cause an air lock and not alloe the pump to function just like any other pump of any kind. Again Polaris added the forth line to the pto bearing for a reason.

Bro! Unhook the pto bearing from the carb. It will siphon the oil from the bearing! Please cap the carbs! Hook the pto bearing to your tank. And just top it off every so often or put a tube upward on the frame where you can watch the level ... it's important to keep it lubed!

So now that you disabled the oil injection pump,you need to rejet richer because your trying to push a thicker fluid through those jets that were jetted for straight gas.trust me,it makes a difference,seen so many people blow up 2 strokes by doing the same thing.oil mixed in gas is a thicker fluid then straight gas by itself.i would try 5 sizes up on the mains to start,and at least 3 on the pilots.

Hey Chris,, The water pump was definitely an issue with cooling!!! Sucking air past that seal and creating cavitation in the pump!! Definitely won't circulate! The oil injection? I think it would be best to make sure that those bearings are continuously getting oil!! Awesome job man!!!

"better steering then the grave ninja" thats why you need the brakes lol. love the project, just like everything on this channel

Don't throw away that gas can! Because of the delivery mechanism or lack thereof, they have to save it as a disclaimer. At any rate, this build is my favorite! You kept the look of the beetle so well. Funnily enough I usually do not like Volkswagen beetles. But when they are made into Baja vehicles I do lol. And you have made such a glorious machine

Chris, "gas cans" have required all those stupid interlock devices on them since 2009--the kind that take about 3 people to be able to pour the fuel with spilling. It started in California, but has since made it a pain the ass all across the country. I live in Ca. and just bought new jugs just like yours. I'm always looking over my shoulder when at a gas station in case the gas can police are watching me!

I have all the charging information you will need, you just have to find what apply s to your system. First the easy stuff. Motor off battery voltage should be about 12.5 to 13 volts Running voltage should be between 13.8 to 14.8 volts. NOW you need to find if your stater voltage is using chassis ground or is isolated. and if the rectifier/regulator is isolated or using chassis ground. If they are both using chassis ground you are shorting out half the system causing the high amp draw and will end up burning everything up by shorting the AC and DC together creating half wave DC not full wave. half wave is not good for electronics like LED lights. To solve this you must find a way to isolate both the AC and DC power, this may require to use a different rectifier/ regulator or mounting it on a chunk of rubber and run both plus and minus wires for the DC power without using chassis ground. I hope this will help and GOOD LUCK!

The round headlights make all the difference.👌

You are thinking about the amperage wrong. The stator/magneto is the generator, capable of supplying sufficient power for it's purpose. The rectifier/regulator simply converts the A/C voltage to DC and limits the max current to it's rated limit. The "LOAD" is what "pulls" the current from the regulator and stator. In this case the battery wasn't fully charged and was simply charging. Once it is fully charged it won't pull hardly any current (just running the coils or cdi) until you put another load on it, like lights or radiator fan. The bigger the load, the hotter the regulator will get as it's working closer to it's rated limit to keep the battery charged.

Maybe it is time to make an easy coolant drain plug on your projects...

You should make that deleted oil pump into an auxiliary gas tank. That would doble your onboard capacity.

The rectifiers between this unit and your CBR1000 unit are different. I don't know the exact specifics of this unit, but it looks like it is a single phase stator (2 wires feeding the rectifier from the stator) and the CBR1000 is a 3 phase system (3 wires from stator to rectifier). The single phase system will pull much more current (per wire) than the 3 phase unit. Also I believe this rectifier is a shunt style and the CBR1000 rectifier is a MOSFET style. The shunt style rectifiers get way hotter than the MOSFET style. The fuel jug is labeled "Not For Gasoline" due to EPA regulations without the stupid anti-spill spout. Awesome project! I love watching your builds!

You need to stop the bodyroll. Add a sway bar on the rearend. This will help you do the donuts you werent able to do last time.

You have aluminum oxide forming in the cover. The bar by the starter/pump cover needs to be removable for service. The pump was fried before you barbequed the bug. Excellent project involving an amazing level of imagination! Way to go, Mr. By the way, use a lil dielectric grease on the O ring, you will be glad you did. Position the fuel line clamps so they don't rub through the coolant 'ose. Check the gas can for damage from fuel. It may be perfectly fine! It is similar to a VP Racing fuel jug, after all!! Mount the regulator to a large metal location so it can dissipate heat into that and not likely overheat.

@ratherbwelding ignore the tag on the jug. That’s there so the EPA will let the store sell them without it being one of those stupid no-vent cans with auto-close valved dispensers that everybody (except the EPA) hates.

These new synthetic 2 stroke oils don't smoke once the engine gets to normal operating temperature

Wow those tires are ballooning like crazy love the build though been watching for a long while

bolt the oil tank back on as a backup fuel tank :) So glad it's got round headlights!

Very brave deleting the oil pump... I would have thought it supplied the main end bearings ..

It looks so much happier with the round headlights!

Thanks for filming Chris. And oh those round headlights DO look a lot better on this bug. 😁👍🏼

Hell yeah buddy!! Looks a million times better with the round headlights. And I think it was a great idea getting rid of the oil tank. You're removing a lot of weight off the back, and it just makes things simpler and easier to work on.

Here's a word from the wise. I see this done with VGG as well. Don't ever put coolant, I mean antifreeze coolant in any vehicle until you've worked out all the bugs. Always just use water and make sure for obvious purposes, that it isn't below freezing when you do these things. It is such common sense it gets overlooked on almost everyone of these building channels it makes me so embarrassed.

I built a 4x4 buggy a good few back & my water pump crapped out on me & left the chat whilst I was out on a trail in the middle of nowhere. Fortunately, I had enough tools on me & I was able to pinch the Chinese electric pump from the fuel system it was kinda over kill in the first place. I then moved the tank a few inches up allowing the fuel system to be fully gravity fed & I then bodged the fuel pump into the coolent system & Its ended working so well that its kinda become semi-permanent as many things do lol. . Great work as usual thanks for sharing. .

Thank you for your videos! Your videos and vehicles are very inspiring and fun!💯🙂

Yes the round headlights is a lot better and more fitting. Love your videos, keep it up.

Mount your rectifier on a heat sink. Job done 👍

Damn right round headlights!! Nice!!

baja bugs sometimes have ducts in place of the rear side windows so i shouldn't be out of place if you made some of those. probably good for your comfort too

You would have a blast with that Baja bug on the Silver Lake sand dunes here in Michigan!!!!!

Those white spots look like oxidized aluminum from hot water spray. Maybe somewhere in the past, someone only used water instead of adding coolant. Coolant is made of ethylene glycol which adds the properties of anti-oxidant, lubrication, and changing the freezing and boiling temperature of water. If you rub coolant alone in your hands, you will not it is slippery. Both the coolant lubrication properties and anti-oxidant for the inside of the water pump. It will not take long for pure water to tear up water pump. For the bearing wear/play, make sure the belt tension is correct, but that red gunk is oxidized iron from beangs.

Those lights look so much cooler!

The polaris oil pumps were pretty reliable unless they had "bean oil" through them, especially after being stored for a while. I've found lines and injectors plugged with molasses looking stuff!

Cool looking buggy. I think it looks a lot like a Baja Bug even without the body! 👌👌

Stiffer rear springs or shocks, you definitely need that. Definitely do that before you hit windrock. It sags soooo hard in the back.

Thank you, a great synopsis as alway.

This lights look WAAAY Better man this thing is a beast so keen to see it ripping more 👌🏻 Definitely make that oil tank another fuel reservoir..

That pump was probably a big part of the overheating, it was roached. The white ice stuff is aluminum corrosion from whatever nasty was in the coolant that leaked out of the broken water pump. Salts and impurities in water/coolant do that to aluminum.

The round lights lokks way better on it. Nice work with the eletrics

Love the round lights. If something is designed to have an oil feed then it must have one or it will seize.

That gas tank not for gas was funny. 😊 also his face when starting the wiring which he hates.

Re: Regulator. Attach it to one of your aluminum panels, with a bit of heat sink paste. The panel will act like a cooling fin, it'll be fine.

Lights look great!

I like the switch to round headlights.

That water pump and blocking the radiator was the cause of overheating. The heat then made the vapour lock worse since the fuel pump was bad in the first place. I have a Volvo V40 of first gen that has the 1.6 petrol engine which is said to have everlasting waterpump due the metal impreller and good design. So when my engine started to overheat after 2 miles each time I drove, no one belived me when I said the water pump is bad. Most was thinking it was the headgasket. But when headgaskets go, they give random results when the overheating starts. So when I pulled off the water pump there was plastic impreller bits everywhere and there was not a single blade left on the pump. Someone in the past had fitted a crap aftermarket one. Now 4 years later my car goes still strong with the new pump 🙂

Conspiracy theory alert on the gas container you bought. They make these types of products because of you assuming the way it is made that it is a gas container only. Once you put the fuel in there you cannot ever put water or any sort of potable source in there again. So now you have to go buy another one if you're going to use it for water. You have to really watch out what you're buying nowadays. They get you coming and going and spending a shitload of your hard-earned money. Anyways all in all what an excellent build once again.!

It stoped smoking because it burned out all the oil that got built up in the cylinders and exhaust from trying to get it running in the beginning, just because it isn’t throwing out a smoke cloud dosnt always mean it’s not getting properly oiled

Hey Chris I think you should put some spacers under the voltage reg so it doesn't build up heat being bolted flat to the aluminium plate less chance for it to overheating

Possible tunng issues.....air filter pods, premixing, exhaust stinger width & length. Cool build 👍

Chris, the amount of current (amps) that a generator is capable of producing has zero effect on how many amps a circuit will draw from it. The more things you are powering, the more current will be drawn from the generator. Current (amps) are not pushed by the generator into the circuit. Instead, the circuit pulls however much current it needs to operate. Assuming the generator can supply the needed current. My guess is that your battery was not fully charged, and that is why you were seeing 14amps at idle. The battery is drawing that much current. When you rev the engine, the voltage goes up a bit, and so, the battery draws more amps. As the battery reaches full charge, you should see the amount of current it draws go down.

Love it so much keep it up as always 💘

it's nice that you listen about the headlights

I've heard that if you go from oil injection to pre-mix, it may affect carb jetting. The carbs have not been calibrated for straight gas. Might not be a problem tho... Thanks for the videos! 👍👍

Round headlights was really the cherry on top 👌🏼

Add some one way flaps on the closed side of radiator fan so when driving air can flow thru without restriction very easy to make with the piece you cut out just have to make a hinge for each

You mounted your regulator on a big aluminum plate which is a giant heat sink thus keeping it from getting as hot as it was when it wasn’t mounted. Should be fine. Get some of that heat sink goop and it will run even cooler

If that PTO bearing had a constant supply of oil, it would be wise to try and at least get that hooked up to receive oil pressure. That's one you may not want to chance it on when you go ripping it

Love the new headlights

I would reconsider the oil pump to feed your crank bearings - those XLT motors were notorious for throwing cranks due to casting flaws in the case and need consistent oiling especially at high speeds. If the motor is a 1996+ it has better casting for the crank than the earlier models pre 1996. Oil that thing! 😂

Snowmobiles Leans into fast turns so the floats don't close off like the buggy being flat and the fuel shoved to 1 side of the bowl.You increasing the flow will help.Keep the 2' oil line for the bearing and use a pinhole cap to let it vent but not drain.If you use gearoil it'll flow slower,but the thickness will help the bearing.It'll be easy to see what's used. Hope you're having Fun now as it's the 2nd. Happy Forth Everyone !

Don’t delete the oil injection

For the gas can, it could be 3 things: 1. The plastic of the take can be melted by petroleum products if the plastic is not the right type. You can get this information from the number that is in the center of the 3 arrows stamped on the plastic. All plastics have a recycle number. Just look at your red gas can and compare the 2 numbers. They only go from 1 to something like 7 for now. 2. The back plastic lid might have the same issue, so check that. 3. I think by govt. standards to transport fuel, every part of the tank needs to be sealable so it won't leak if it turns on its side. I am not sure if a simple stopper at the end was submitted for certification to the govt. That costs money.

We used to run Amsoil mixed gas in our Banshees at 100:1 with zero issues in Oregon dunes. Had 6 Banshees ran that way for 10 years never an engine problem. Hardly a puff of smoke. You dont have to see smoke in a 2 stroke.

i shouldve thought of this sooner but when you redo one of these engines in a snowmobile you have to bleed the air out of the top of the head to get the cooling system to operate properly again. youre definitely gonna want to do that

The mould looking stuff on the inner part of the cover is corrosion of magnesium in aluminium-magnesium alloy cast metal. that alloy doesn't really like water, specially sitting water, a coat of paint could help it for a while, if you are expecting water around that area.

dont forget to premix the stuff in the auxiliary tanks too cause that's the kind of thing that'd drive you nuts if you forgot. :P

The white spots inside of the pull start housing are oxidizing the aluminum because of the water from the water pump

A water cooled Baja Bug sounds like an oxymoron

Nice work. If the air to the regulator/rectifier is coming from under the seat(front to back), then I would turn it 90 degrees. That way it gets all the fins, and can work more efficiently.

When you put the new round lights on my first thought was calling it Herby JR

You normally only just have to replace the impeller and.seals on a water pump. We keep spares in the tool box. Same for my boat. I think all my water replacement impellers are plastic and go out. That is a big water pump. Water pumps are owned by the coolant company. ;)

Chris, Turn the roll hoop into a F1 style air scoop for extra cooling. Its right up there in the breeze.

I keep meaning to comment- try a random orbit sander with what ever grit you fancy for going over the surface of panels- it leaves a nice frosted patena

Chris has come a long way from the 106 roman candle video 👌

HI Chris, Essentially the regulator is regulating voltage not amps... so if there is little or no load on it then the supply voltage from the stator will be higher (due to internal resistance) and the Regulator has more volts to loose as heat. But once there is a load, lights, fan, battery etc, the amount of volts it has to dissipate as heat will reduce.

@Rather B Welding you need a baffling inside the fuel tank. When you corner the fuel slashes and pump can’t pull. The baffle stops splashing inside the tank

Fantástico amigo!!!

Something you could try is to add a 50ohm 15 watt resistor between the DC out and a computer fan. You could use the computer fan to cool the regulator. An 80mm fan should be plenty. You could even harvest one out of an old computer power supply.

You could use the oil tank you took off for extra fuel reserve.

A pool noodle on the head guard would prevent you from hurting your head or neck. Just a few zip ties would hold it in place.

A fully charged 12 volt lead/acid battery is 12.6 volts. A 12v battery fresh off the charger will read 13.2 to 13.6 volts generally. An alternator produces a bit more voltage that the battery to push in the charge. Commonly 14.2 to 14.7 volts. Hook up the oil tank/pump to the pto bearing. Whatever it pumps in in addition to the oil in the fuel will be a welcome addition.

This is a little bit late for this build, but... You don't need to have an air cooled radiator to cool the engine. The old style "Belly Tank Lake Racers" used a simple tank (no flues) to cool the radiator fluid before being pumped back into the motor. In that manner, it didn't need air flow to cool the radiator fluid, there was simply a large enough volume of water that the heat dissipated before being recycled back into the engine. The downside of this system was the size of the tank needed to be large enough to allow the fluid to cool before being recycled.

Hey on the bearing that was oiled by the oil injection pump. You can get and old school drip oiler and turn it on while your ridding. Amazon has them for 20.00 dollar. They are used on vintage machines and steam engines

Since you Deleted the oil injection please make sure you re-jet the carburetors! Otherwise you may end up running lean and it'll score the cylinders.

Finalmente te achei novamente, assistia a uns 3 anos mas nn lembro se era inscrito😊😊

yoy cant just convert to premix on all 2 strokes, some bearings might not get oil at all like that, just fix the damn pump

Use a shop vac to drain coolant. Take off a hose connection high up in the system and put the shop vac hose to it.

I've drilled lube holes for the main bearings when deleting oil pumps. You may want to check if your engine will have any problems switching to premix.

It should be OK. Just remember that electrical devices draw current to them. Let's say if the head lamp draws 10 amps then it's only going to draw 10 amps. Voltage is the pressure. Voltage is what you have to worry about. Anything over 15v is not good for 12v systems. It's normal for the battery to read over 13v after shutting down the engine because the battery will maintain a surface charge for a while but will normalize in about an hour. The regulator was probably getting hot for lack of ground or lack of heatsink depending on the design of the regulator.

The white stuff inside the case is called aluminum oxide and it will eventually eat through the case. If you don't do something to stop it . It is very similar to rust on steel

With the huge air filter pods the engine will run lean. This will cause the engine to bog down when opening the throttle and aid in making the engine run hotter.

Dont worry about the jug not being for fuel. The manufacturer has to comply with the government by telling the consumer that it's not a "government approved fuel container". It'll be fine for a fuel jug.

The tank is just a color code thing. Red for gas, yellow for diesel, white for water/coolant..... Mark it "Mixed Gas" & all is good.

Don’t forget to Change the Fuel into Mixed Fuel and the Red Can You Carry Outside Greetings Max

if you look at small engines usually older ones like the briggs n straton, kohler, n other motors they have there regulators near to or on a fan shroud area - cooled from behind with the air cooled fan. newer ones often mounted on plastic with a real "ground wire" to the metal fin like areas - yours might need that. if there is still to much voltage output that you are finding, look for a diode to place in line. the voltage normally will drop 1.5 volts per diode. but you have to match the amperage size or higher. on a 16-20 amp system look for a 25 amp diode. note diodes also block voltage output. there is the in and out on the diodes. if the volt meter reads an output voltage it is wired correctly inline, if no voltage shows up on the terminals or output wire it is wrong. a lithium battery will take voltages up to 15 v dc. lead acid, agm, other batteries want to have a max voltage of 14.4 v dc when charging. most vehicle lights can handle the 14.4 to maybe a 14.6 volts. beyond that is where it is best to put in a voltage drop diode - most lighting systems are under a 5 amp draw so a 5-9 amp diode can be used (ebay has any type diode you want). Note often smaller amp charging systems utilize only 1 wire field to the regulator rectifier, there is a frane ground wire design on them. anything over the 9 amps usually have 2 ac input wires and there is no polarity on those wires - ie you can't wire it wrong. it use to be the 1 wire systems had diodes placed in line as a bridge rectifier taking the ac and with 4 diodes converting it to dc current. the newer systems utilize current limiting circuitry and stuff to limit the output amps and voltage. Some of the really old motors took the ac output put in 1 diode and ran the wires to the battery and lights - nothing "No LED" lights just always the yellow looking tungsten light bulbs. if you have seen some of the old battery chargers they used a fin looking thing called a rectifier to change the ac to dc. never had a diode in them. what this and diode bridge rectifiers do is clip half of the ac electrical sign wave to be only half the wave or dc output. I hope that helps. Oh, the clutch side bearing - take a container of sorts - plastic bottle put some cloth or cotton on the bottom where you have the oil line connected too, don't connect to any carburetors. only connect carbs to carbs. fill the tank with oil. minor pin hole as a breather to or in the side of a fill cap. check oil level regularly. heat a safety pin with a torch and push it in the tank for the breather. add more cloth if needed to catch the dirt and replace if needed.