Agreed

Thank you for giving me an audience. I used to do all this stuff before but now i get to share it with people :)

"professional" equipment.... as professional as I can get on a shoe string budget. I have to get pretty creative sometimes to get the data that I want and as you've seen now the mill often ends up being the base of my instrumentation. I really want to build a machine to test valve springs at high RPM to determine required spring rates. I'm pretty sure many people in the industry are using rather excessive spring pressures and I don't like the extra friction. I also need a flow bench at some point so I can explore some porting on this motor.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks Something something something kickstarter! Haha

I agree! Real talent here!

Thank you, this one was a pretty big discovery, Nobody would want to have to hear that rattle every time they start the motor.

Thank you for the feedback. It certainly won't always be able to work this way since sometimes i spend weeks going back and forth to the shop measuring one or two things and just letting it stew for a while while i think of different designs that can solve my problem. I don't have a permanent TIS subscription but i usually buy a 3 day subscription a couple times a year. It's a great source for info. Especially if you read between the lines of the info they do give.

With the new cams that have just arrived there will be a few 2AR-FE videos coming down the pipeline soon.

I need to wait 24hours after initial release before i can see any analytics but what i can see so far says that this is a pretty decent success.

Honestly this thing is getting way more views than i expected. Still less than normal for me but a lot more than i expected. So you aren't alone enjoying this extra nerdy content.

The AR has the filters inside the engine so they aren't easy to check after it is assembled but that is a good point that should be checked.

Thank you for the info, i will keep this in mind for next time. I know i will need to do this at some point in chassis.

I don't disagree, if I'm honest I just get lazy sometimes.

Yeah, it's really frustrating that the configuration does not allow for a proper spring rate to be installed in a way that prevents the valve from sitting in a position other than fully open or fully closed. If this does not fix it I'll need a two part pin would require more pressure to open than to hold it open.

Most of the 2AR-FE engines never have this issue. Make sure you regularly get the engine up to full temperature and keep it there for a while for best engine life.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks you mean run the engine?

@@Atomex_edit some people think that an engine that just takes a little old lady to church and back once a week is a good engine. Those engines are the one most likely to have a ton of buildup inside the engine because they never get up to temperature. I don't know what the car usage patterns look like in japan but if you are in a situation where all trips are short trips make sure you occasionally take longer trips with it to keep it up to temperature for long enough to get all the moisture out of the oil and just generally keep things clean.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks thanks I will take your advice to take a long trip around Japan with family. It’s probably the best advice I have ever received here on KZfaq. Cheers!

if it makes you feel better i did have one spring go sproinging off but I edited it out. It was while i was measuring spring pressures on the test fixture.

@multirotormanish7220 I'm thinking it is the same thing. It happens when the engine/Oil is cold. If you notice when the engine/Oil is warm/hot, you don't experience the noise. It is also only in Drive and Reverse. When you hear it next time put the car in Nuetral or Park and it will go away.

Launce, I've literally just released a new flywheel for the 2GR and also a new accelerator pedal assembly for the SW20 swaps. I'm not ignoring the 2GR, the 2AR is a fun motor to play with that responds very well to mods and the architecture is very similar to the 2GR so lessons learned will be applicable over to the 2GR when i get there. Things like figuring out the right kinds of spring seat pressures necessary and what needs to be done to the valvetrain to get it to rev to the moon without a rapid unscheduled disassembly event. Plus, my race car has a 2AR, not a 2GR.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks totally understand and I am one of your customers including recent purchase of your flywheel and soon pedal setup. I should have been more explicit by saying video content vs. R and D. My bad. Hope you have some new 2GR videos really soon!

@@FrankensteinMotorworks well I, for one, am very excited for this spring info now, as I either have ridiculous rattle or my bottom end is knocking :( :( :( :( :(

@@mrkazman I don't have enough testing done yet to have the springs for sale but if you're wanting to try it yourself i'm happy to sell you a set of springs.

Unfortunately i don't know the answer to that. The motor has been rattling as long as i've had it but it only spent about 3 weeks in the car before i pulled it out to test out the 2AR-FXE build instead.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks Understood and thank you for replying back!

He says to fill out the contact forms on his website for purchasing the spring.

Severe oil consumption is really only an issue for very underutilized engines that never or rarely properly get up to temperature. It isn't actually a widespread problem. My advice would be to replace it and then just make sure you regularly get the engine up to full operating temperature.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks I realize that to a point but the 4cyls,had or maybe still have low tension oil rings,do you have any insight into when or if they started using rings that didn't have the stuck ring senaro?

Yes, these springs are installed in four different 2AR motors out there and it seems to properly fix the problem.

yes, they have a mesh filter in the #1 cam cap.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks might be worth comparing rattle vs non-rattle filters and / or logging the oil pressure to the actuator just to see if there is anything going on

@@allan80supra The filters have a pretty much identical mesh. The plastic carrier is a bit different because it sits in a different place in the engine but even that is pretty similar. The 2AR's vvt-i oil pressure is more or less impossible to log because it never exits the block. Also, once oil pressure comes up there's no control issue, the issue is before the oil pressure builds fully. You can hear the issue very clearly at 18:53 in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLWWlbNhuc3dlWw.html

@@FrankensteinMotorworks doh... well good luck with the spring fix, I guess your other option is add an oil accumulator with the solenoid so it primes before start and a nice to have on a race car anyway... but my mind was just blown at the cost of the moroso accumulator valve on summit!

@@allan80supra One thing that probably wasn't clear with this video is that with the bigger cams the issue isn't just at startup but it is the same issue. That's why it became necessary to fix it right away. So unfortunately in that case a startup accumulator would not address it. There are people that have actually fixed their stock AR motors that way though because even an expensive accumulator is cheaper than paying someone for a phaser replacement. I do have some thoughts on an integrated accumulator for this motor that i would like to make at some point.

I know i'm incidentally shown it a few times but i've never really properly focused on it. The factory service manual does a really good job explaining it. If you send me an e-mail or contact me through the website I'll be happy to send you a copy of that part of the manual. I'd put it here but i can't attach an image to a youtube comment.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks thank you man. I have the TSB for it but the suggested method didn’t work for me. Been frustrating as hell. I’ll just have to experiment. Should have just bought yours

The spring that i found has worked well for the engines it has been used in so far.

Hey buddy. Recent subscriber. I'd like to inquire about the springs you had in testing. My '13 Camry 2AR rattles on cold start (even in Florida heat) 0w20 oil, always full on dipstick and changed every 5k. Owned the cat since 57k miles and now has 105k miles. I check your website briefly but didn't see anything about the springs. Would it be best to get the spring from you and also install a new cam gear? I haven't inspected mine but the noise goes away in +/- 1 second so maybe no notice damage yet.

You can reach out to me via the contact form on my website if you want to buy them. Unfortunately these have turned out to not be worth the amount of support time they take to sell. But if you want to buy them without installation support i can sell them to you for $25. frankensteinmotorworks.com

Hey bud. Is the solution to install these custom springs into a brand new Genuine cam sprocket? My noise is very minor and only on cold start for say, less than 1 full second. 114k miles and I do want to keep her going as long as possible.

Right, the phasers aren't the only reason why engines can rattle.

I actually haven't put another motor together since this but I will be putting together a motor with upgraded cams in a few weeks and I'll be installing these in there.

The 2GR is a different design and should not suffer from the same issues. If you're having rattle on a 2GR and you haven't recently done an oil change you should change your oil and filter and also clean out the vvt-i filters and if the rattle does not go away you should change out the offending phaser(s)

It fixes the rattle for most people but the amount of hand-holding required to help people through the installation is ridiculously high so i no longer sell them.

@FrankensteinMotorworks Lol. Damn that sucks. Guess I'll just buy a new gear or experiment on my own. Thx for your input on this video and response.

no, this is the startup rattle, not the "sowing machine" sound that is normal when the engine is running. You can hear it in this video at 18:53: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLWWlbNhuc3dlWw.html

@@FrankensteinMotorworks That sounds really familiar, if not, the exact same as the startup rattle on early (2009-2010) 2ZR's. In the case of the 2ZR, Toyota addressed the issue around late 2010-early 2011 and I believe any 2ZR 2011 and above no longer have the startup rattle. Is it the same situation with the 2AR or did Toyota never address the issue with an updated cam gear?

@@nobelium8028 they technically did address it but the problem is still there. I haven't gotten my hands on a pre-TSB phaser yet to be able to see what the difference actually was. I am looking for one and if there's interesting information when i find one i do plan on sharing it. Unfortunately my fix is more of a band-aid. The fact that the backing plate that the spring rides on moves is a problem and the fact that there's a pressure dump that isn't balancing both sides of the solenoid pressure can't really be fixed without a significant change. I will also keep looking to see if i can find a phaser with a design that looks more like the 2GR-FE that could be repurposed for the 2AR-FE but so far there is no luck in that direction. the "Vee" motor phasers are completely different and the updated phasers in the A25A are so different they could not reasonably be retrofitted.

Yes, It fixed my issue.

@@FrankensteinMotorworks My 2014 Camry was making the noise , Toyota dealer put new cam gear on under warenty, at 60k at 80 still making noise on start up , one morning crank it up and lost compression. im sure all the intakes are bent. i love these SV40S AND 50S but want to fix this issue. would like to by the pair of springs from you

@@FrankensteinMotorworks Me too! Got a 2009 RAV4 with the rattle. The updated Gear is out of stock in the whole continent.

It seems to have fixed the problem for most people that have tried it but the reality is it isn't worth selling these because of the support they take for what they cost.