To address some recurring questions: Why didn't you just tap the holes? My preference was to keep the upgrade as simple and cheap as possible. Most people will have a drill and some drill bits, but a tap and die set is much less common, and also a bit of a skill in and of itself. I've certainly broken my share of taps lol. Also in regards to tapped holes, that would mean the holes have to be perfectly perpendicular to the build plate which would also require some kind of drilling jig, or better yet a drill press, again ballooning the cost and complexity of this mod way out. Why not just countersink and bolt the original magnetic sheet on to the build plate? The original magnetic sheet is a floppy and compressible material, not unlike TPU - so to apply acute pressure with bolts to extremely thin countersunk points on the magnet it will be very likely fail quickly in my opinion. Not to mention the undulation that's likely to occur between the placement of each bolt. You could mitigate that with some kind of additional adhesive or increase the number of bolts used, but the former is just more of the original issue we're trying to overcome here of adhesive failure, and the latter further diminishes the durability of the magnet (and quite possibly the strength too). Why not just tune your bottom layer exposure so parts are easy to remove? This can be a good idea, but it's one of those settings where you don't want to ride the edge of success and failure too closely. Its better to err on the side of good adhesion, and flex plates are just one of those things that once you start using one it's hard to go back - they're just so convenient and awesome to work with. Why not use shop rags to clean the build plate before installing the Whambam magnet? This is something Whambam advise on their instructions, and I believe its to completely remove any chance of rogue debri or oil that might be present in something like a shop rag from getting between the build plate and the magnet. Fresh paper towels are a pretty sure-fire way to rule out these contaminates. Whambam's response to this video: thanks for the wonderful video, we have a few comments to help with the process and science. Our Magnets and glues will stick very well and for many many years even to very large build plates! the FEP suction force is not the main reason for glue failure, the main reasons for glue failure are: poor installation (not scuffing and cleaning the build plate first, or not waiting the 72 hours to cure) or sitting too long in resin or IPA as both attack the 3M glues. Second point: we do recommend taking the full head off of the machine between prints to be sure to completely clean the build head and magnet and avoid getting trapped resin between build plate and magnet. Our magnets are coated with a protective UV cure layer, and long exposure to resin or IPA can eventually eat through this. Here is our best practice of installation as well: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNh5mNhyzL6bpn0.html thanks again for the great video! Original pinned comment: Get your magnets and hardware right now, this shit works! Go go go! 1.26" (32mm) Countersunk Hole Magnets: geni.us/CSMZVY Countersunk Hex Head Bolt Kit: geni.us/68zQzW Also buy us a coffee lol buymeacoffee.com/onceinasixside/ Do it You'll get sweet STL's and you get to join the cult too. I mean Discord.

In the pondering of modern-day philosophers, "Magnets, how do they work?"

My magnet fell off after 2 prints and it was a 50 dollar purchase. I ended up removing all the leftover adhesive from the magnet, got some new glue, spread it out evenly so it was flush with the plate and got the magnet back on. I also saw a tip online to spread a thin layer of resing on the edge between the magnet and the plate and cure it. So it sealed the crack and no resin got in after that to loosen the magnet again. Now it's working fine.

I've thought of attaching magnets for a better flexplate grip, but I was always too scared of ruining the plate. This was great to watch. The gap between the plate and magnets can also help stir the resin. Look forward to a follow up later if you are still using this.

So the next iteration of resin printers should have magnets built into their build-plate, have a heated vat and a swivel release mechanism... what am I missing?

Ok, so next iteration you should countersink the magnets into the build side of the plate so the flex plate is flat against the build plate and avoid the resin mess. Awesome concept. Not sure I’m brave enough to try for myself though

I just checked, and I ordered a WhamBam flex plate system for my Anycubic Photon M3 Max in June of 2022. Nearly two years later, it's still going strong, with no sign of the magnet detaching from the build plate. Don't ask me how, I've no idea, I just followed the instructions for installing it and never had a problem.

Personally, I just fdm printed a new buildplate with a countersink for these magnets, and a space for a captured nut to screw into. Made life so much easier, and now I've got 2 build plates

Small psa for anyone buying a flexplate that is not name-brand: i bought one off of amazon for about ten bucks, and adhesion is perfectly fine (have had it for about a year now and zero issues with sticking to the build plate with the supplied adhesive magnet) but i had a small issue where, even though it was especially made for my printer the little tab you use to peel the flex plate from the magnet was sticking out too much so every time the build plate went down for the first few layers it flexed against the side of the vat after which it cluncked down onto the fep and screen. No damage has occured but it did scrape some paint off of the vat (cheap printers might have a thin layer of paint) which ended up in the resin and gave me a couple of failed prints. Just be aware if the plate fits in the vat when mounted amd adjust it slightly diagonal to make sure you don't damage your printer 😉

I always love your joy when you pull off something cool. Great video!

What a beautiful monster in the true spirit of the 3D printing hobby. So happy your experiment didn't fail and that you didn't let anything stop you. Now, can you design an fdm spacer so the flex plate has something flush to sit against between the magnets? It should reduce your mess.

My LD-002H's all have the Wham Bam plate installed. Holding strong for over 3 years!

I have a Peopoly Forge, which is pretty big, if you prep the build plate properly you can keep them from coming off. Mine has been on the build plate for over a year with no sign of coming loose.

Getting a magnetic plate was definitely the best thing ever, prints are so easy to get off now.

I used two-part epoxy to glue the magnet of a flexplate to the buildplate. Holds perfectly since more than a year.

Great idea. Looking forward to doing this myself. I would dip the bolts in locktite to keep the bolts from loosening over time

Sir you spoil us 2 videos in a week always happy to see more of your stuff (i mainly do fdm but one day once I get a bigger place will get into resin so its not in my room when I print) but love learning this stuff

CNC the magnets into the build plate, then it will be golden!!

This is brilliant. Hopefully the resin printing companies will see this and bring this to market on new machines or even as an after-market purchase on individual build plates. Awesome stuff. Of course you did it with least amount of engineering and tools, which is great but this video had me looking at Amazon for countersunk neo magnets that are bars instead of round. If you wanted I'm sure someone with a CNC machine could drill out some holes for magnets, round or bar, and make sure the magnets are flush with the plate so the only offset would be the flexplate itself. So if any companies are watching... MAKE THIS HAPPEN!

At work, we have a 4K Mighty. I stuck a wam-bam on it over a year ago and no issue with magnet coming off. I had to sand it to help with adhesion. I did leave it for a week with a couple of heavy books on it before I showed it the resin. No proof but perhaps the week of sitting helped with long term adhesion.

I love the swapping of the build plate! Might give that a go, I like the four screw design better. Your magnet solution seems like it is easier to use and maintain, than a sticker magnet.

Very cool mod! I’ve been thinking of putting mine into my CNC machine and drilling pockets for 20mm neodymium magnets … from the top side. And I’d leave 1mm of material on the print side and epoxy the magnets in.

If you absolutely need a perpendicular hole drilled, you might also consider a drill block; they cost around 5 to 10 bucks (depends on brand and number of hole sizes). Pretty much a solid metal block or block with metal holes to guide your drill and keep it at 90 degrees

What might be a better solution is to use the magnetic pad that eventually peels off, but drill through it like you did with this mod, and use a counter-sink bit as well. That way you can install flat head machine screws with a cone shape head that will keep it pressed into the build plate. Do that in all of the places the magnetic pad typically peels, and I highly doubt it'll fall off.

My saturn 4 ultra is on the way and I've already got my flex plate, never leave home without one kids

I use aluminum tape to affix it to my build plate. Works a treat.

In FDM printing, having several magnets built into the build plate has been common for a long time. Why haven't resin printer manufacturers picked up on that yet? It's such an obvious solution.

Perfect timing, my magnetic sheet gave up the ghost just yesterday.

I took a little baking soda spread on the plate side and thin layer of CA glue on the magnet sticker. It never fell of so far. I guess it has to be done very thin though and may be messing levelling of the mag plate a bit anyway.

I applaud the ingenuity but lol, I just used two-part epoxy glue to permanently reattach my magnet when it started peeling. Never had an issue since.

So I have a small farm of large format resin printers. I do like to use flex plates however I used to run into the same issue you are trying to solve. IMO the simplest solution is to simply remove the adhesive on the magnet. Thoroughly scratch the surface magnet on the side you removed the adhesive on and do the same for the build plate. After that just use a lot of superglue making sure that the entire surface is covered in superglue and allow the magnet and build plate to cure under pressure. After the superglue has fully cured trim off any glue that has oozed out. After doing that correctly. You should be good indefinitely. If you want to remove it for some reason a sharpened scrapper is your best bet. That being said this also allows you to get away from whambam and their overpriced plates.

you can probably lose some of the mess if you had a typical gasket around the magnets (and entire flex plate connection area 'void') that presses gently against the flexplate and the original build plate. It doesn't need to be a super high pressure to keep more vicious liquids out - or mostly out - which will (should) drastically reduce the amount of resin that gets on top the flex plate. (and if it is connected to the build plate, you don't have to worry about removing it/cleaning it with the flex plate)

Hi, sorry for the inconvenience caused, I am from chitu team, and this screen kit should have an adaptor included, our support team will contact you.

Rad mod. Very rad and really cool and unique. That said, there is no way I'm ever doing that much work, haha!

This is the best kind of Frankenstein project - love it

I love throwing the whole plate in the cleaner and putting a second plate back on the printer and hitting go on the next print. Other than a wash and cure station, they are basically a mandatory upgrade for me!

I ADORE the Frankenstein attitude of this, and the fact it ended up working as well as it did is amazing. I've had the literal cheapest flex plate system on my Saturn for over a year now and printed 2+ full 2,000 point armies with it and it's still going strong though. If/when it fails I'd definitely just spend the $20 to replace the flex plate, but the entire time I'll be thinking of the marvel/affront to nature that you've created here 🤣

Might have to try this with the Mega 8k since it comes with the holes built into the plate. Just need to find a flex plate big enough since wham bam doesn't make any large enough.

will def do that when mine fails. Thanks ;)

I have been using mag plates for a while and my best results were sanding the plates in an "X" pattern. Everything stuck first try. Thanks for the video as always

This was such a hassle for you and you are used to tinkering and are resourceful. Now imagine the average user and the worse ones, the ones that forget to tightnen the screws from the vat or that replace the FEP every time they have a failure do the same thing... It was interesting to watch you tinker and adapt (the switcharoo to Elegoo was funny) but I'll stick to the pallet knife and tapping at a ~ 30° angle

Coming from FDM printing I'm confused why magnetic flex plates aren't designed into SLA printers from the start. It's and old technology at this point, just design the printer around it.

Have had a flex plate on a Saturn 1 for about 3 years with no issues. Like you show it's about installation and "maintenance". However I exclusively use water washable resin and only do a final build plate spritz with IPA after a water clean. Ultimately the IPA is just being used as a final wash stage as it evaporates quicker than water. I don't remember keying the surface but i definitely cleaned it really well with IPA and clamped it for about 24 or so hours somewhere warm. Why not just mount strong neodymium magnets to the top of the build plate - maybe less messy and you wont loose build height? Ultimately I think it will come from the manufacturers with a layered inbuilt magnet system - flex plates allow you to dial up the first layer time to maximise adhesion as it comes off a flex plate easily irrespective. I've never had a failed resin 3d print due to this as you don't have to compromise on plate adhesion vs removal. I'm not sure if a tilting vat will help, it may be even worse applying a peeling force from front to back even though it's lower vs a direct vertical force. Try pulling a band aid off vertically vs peeling it off :P

Super glue. My original Saturn has had a plate on since I bought it, still going and my Jupiter I've had for a year and it's absolutely fine.

Good idea. Bit too much work since my wambams tend to last a year before I have to re-add some glue. Amazed that the anycubic fits on the saturn. Makes me wonder if they are being made out of the same parts.. Wait is there a secret 3d printer cabal that only gives us the illusion of choice!!! 🤯

Add a drop of thread lock to stop the nuts from ever coming lose, or use nylock nuts.

I never had an issue removing prints once I started using a set of pallet knives to remove prints. They're just big flexible razor blades. No need for a flex plate.

I think you can solve the issue with this design by making a build plate that has more magnets impregnated into the bottom. I dont think the manufacturers will find it worth the time. But if they do offer something like "BUILD PLATE +, the best magnetic build plate upgrade around" people will shell out good money for it (like I'd pay an extra $50 in addition to the cost of a normal plate)

Magnetic build plates _suck_ so hard for resin printing -- resin always gets into the area with the adhesive, allowing the magnet to detach. The resin just isn't compatible with the adhesive. I hope more people move to this method.

a like for all the work. Well done

welp, if my two-tress flex plate fail me on my 6kxs, i probably will drill some holes. Thanks for the video!

just use 4 one at each corner and also the magnetic strip use superglue to glue to the bed thats what i did when i build my own flex beds 2 years ago, used putty knifes to make flex bed out of

I think I’m gonna have to try this, might need to order a sacrificial build plate just to mess around with! 🤔

a better question to it all is WHY does like Anycubic not just make the original build plate magnetic to start with. They could REALLY create a new norm for resin printers by just putting magnets into the build plates to start with. TBH I am blown away that no one has done this YET.....

I actually did a similar mod, but just print a custom holder that fills the space between the magnets and the main base, voila no more drawbacks

My concern would be the magnet housing getting rusty. I found those magnets rust over time, especially with alcohol. Might be something to watch in the future. I had a cleaning vat fan system i left alcohol in and it destroyed the magnets. With those crease areas might make it hard to clean. Without leaving moisture.

Could you add a skirt to the original build-late to stop as much resin getting in-between it and the flex plate as well as maybe help locate the plate?

Might do this with my Phrozen Mighty!

I have used my chitu systems flex plate on my Saturn 3 for months. .. and had full build plates .. It's not coming off at all.. its all about prep and leaving the adhesive to cure for the time specified.

Honestly, drilling and tapping the plate would have been best. Just make sure you use a larger metric screw and something to lock the thread. Not necessarily thread locker though cause I’m not sure how that would interact with the resin

This feels like a lot of effort to address a negligible problem. A properly tuned bottom exposure time and a plastic razor blade serves me just fine lol.

When sanding, just leave the metal dust on the plate while you sand. It's extra abrasive material. There's no benefit to cleaning it several times. That gap between the build plate and the magnetic plate is also increasing your suction forces on the vertical moves. Not sure how that will impact things. Personally, I just used two part epoxy on the magnetic plate. It's never coming off. A replacement build plate is like $50.

Love the video, but I don't care for flex plates. However the mod to put the Anycubic plate on a Saturn... mind blowing. I am not a fan of my Saturn 2 plate with 2 bolts. Now I have something to look into for an upgrade.

I'm definitely going to try this on my Phrozen Sonic mega. There's already holes in the build plate so I shouldn't even have to drill

All of my resin printers have Wham Bam flexi plates. I have a new big one coming and I'm already thinking about how annoying it will be until I get one for it.

Thanks!

my whambam kit for phrozen 8k mini failed after 9 months , magnetic tape started to unstick from buildplate. The solution is doing some test to find the best exposure for your base , do that and you wont need any magnetic plates.

Like for the KZfaq gods, comment for the algo.

I got a cheap flex plate for my photon M3 back when they first came out because it was a weird bed size and none of the big name brands had plates for them yet. It worked fine but one of the issues of the no-name brands is that the metal plate is razor sharp and I sliced my hand pretty good when cleaning it off one time. Just something to think about.

So glad my brother and I put a flex plate on our Mars 2 Pro. A little more difficult now that we're using the flexible Sunlu Toughness resin, though. XD We've been running it for about 6? months now, and there's a few times my ADHD ass has forgotten to put the flex plate back on before printing. (I also forgot to screw the build plate firmly onto the lift arm the other day.) So now it is required in my household that the build plate only be mounted in printing position when it is 100% ready to print. No popping off the flex plate and leaving the rest for me 😅

Been printing on an Elegoo Saturn for years and never needed a flexplate. For stubborn bed adhesion (imagine complaining about that) after washing, I stick the entire build plate in a zip top bag and chuck it into the freezer for 15 minutes. Everything comes off easy. Why waste money on a flexplate that's gonna fail over time? Not to mention I can stick my whole build plate into the alcohol bath to clean it...

6:15 Leaving the plate attached to the magnet as you install is wild. Also i think your overlooking the appeal of the anycubic build plate on an elegoo. Thats the complaint i see most often with Elegoo, the two screw ball mount, so if you can replace that a lot of people will be interested.

Make a temporary boarder and flood this with plastic-like 2 part resin to the level of the magnets.

you could print a frame around the magnets so the resin wont go on top of the plate.

I'm surprised embedded magnets aren't a thing on resin printers yet, there's no heat involved that would decrease magnetic force so it's a no brainer

I feel like you should have put test rafts between the magnets instead of directly on top of them if it's going to fail it should be where the plate isn't supported and could probably flex and slide

My whambam xtr magned melted and fused with the bed after a year. :) Spare magnet is not that expensive but still.

I know this is a bit of a specialized tooling but getting a tap and tapping the holes would allow you to avoid needing to counter bore the backside. Also I would like to see you specifically printing small prints in between the magnets to see if the lack of support there would lead to flexing in the plate and weirdness with the print. Love the DIY testing and that quick thinking of swapping the assembly to another printer was brilliant.

Thanks

You should 3d print a skirt for the magnets to prevent pooling on the backside of the flexplate.

When I first got into resin printing I thought this mod was silly and a waste of money, and I'm glad I didn't get one cause my prints come off with a plastic spatula once you dial in your resin you know the settings are perfect everytime.

OH My problem is that after a bit, I've had the magnet adhere to the metal spring steel. There's literally chunks of magnet missing from my build plate because it just glued itself to the metal spring steel.

Looking forward to more Franken-plate builds 😂

At 1:41 A new tilt mechanism.... A new... buuuuuaaaa hahah. Well sir you are certainly new to resin printing. But keep going we all had to start somewhere.

I had nothing bit problems with a magnetic flex plate on my Mars 2 pro. I took it off and have had great prints (generally) ever after. I wouldn’t advise anyone to put a flex plate on.

Great video, but I exclusively print in tough flexible for warhammer/clumsy. So no flex plate for me.

There is a product in the states called JB Weld you could you to secure it to the plate without the need to drill holes

ive had issues and failures with the flex plate shifting or sliding on the magnet during a large print. with the proper settings on a stock plate its not that hard to remove prints anyways

F in chat @7:41 RIP

Takk!

How about using epoxy to glue the sheet instead of a pressure sensitive adhesive ? How about sealing the edges of the magnetic sheet so that resin doesn't getto the glue ?

I have been asking for years why the manufacturers dont build magnets into the plate design? It would be so much easier if it was purpose built like this to begin with. Embedded magnets is the way to go.

how do that work with fumes to leave the resin in the printer? and how are your exhaust you made, doing is it enough or do you wanna upgrade later? thank

I just wish I could print anything right now. Been having prints stick to the FEP in the same place for about a month now, no matter what I've done they still stick.

Forget flex plates and messing about with magnets. Wash your whole build plate with alcohol or water depending on resin type then run it under super hot water, prints will come off super easy and you will get zero damage to your build plate. I started printing a few months ago and killed my first build plate in 30 or 40 prints because I couldn't get the prints to come off without taking chunks out of my build plate. My second build plate has now done 150-200 prints and still looks like it is brand new.

V2 counter sink the magnets so they are flush to the plate

Dude. Can you over engineer my toilet seat?

Souds like something thatt the manufactures need to implement on their side.

I must of been lucky. Twice Ive installed a cheapo Magnetic plate I didnt do half as many precautions. 4 years no failures. My printers are both Mars though so small printers.

Well... I wasted a lot of money on flex plates only to have them eventually fall off for the same reason. Then I came across a comment that changed my life... So I'll pass on the same info/advice... Get a UV flashing/UV curing light handy. Next take a syringe and fill it with some good quality resin. Gently add a line of filament along the edge of the magnet plate and the plate. Cure that line. Repeat for the other 4 edges. Do it 2 or more times to ensure you've gotten every single hole so nothing can seep in. If you do it right, it will last indefinitely. Mine has been on for at least a year now.