Best tool ever! geni.us/die-grinder

you know the friendship is real when they constantly roast each other and laugh about it together, thanks for sharing.

I like this Kevin guy. Maybe not as much as Rich, but I still like him lol

If you cut the old bearing race in one spot with a grinder it won’t get stuck in the hub when using it to drive in the new race

Load sense shaft from a 3020. Have had one in my box for 10 years

Man it looks like you guys have fun in the shop together. Always nice to work with your buddy. Makes for fun content!

Haha, Finnegan just did that with his clutch install! It’s always that one part, DOH!

To simplify chain installation: block up the rear wheel, and open the drive circuit, to allow the chain to rotate. then put the chain on the top of the sprocket and have someone rotate the back wheel-- -- while you hold the front hub housing, and allow the spindle to rotate. the chain will "walk" on.

Love the editing and the banter.

I've put a transmission in once without the torque converter before. And was like damn why ain't this thing moving haha never made that mistake again

This reminds me very much of my youth on the farm. Just two buddies fixing stuff - great work !

The Case 1835c, 1838, and 1840 were all essentially the same machine, just with different engines. The 1835c was the older of the three. The other two were built concurrently. The 1835c had a Teledyne 2.0 3-cylinder engine, available in either gas or diesel. That engine is definitely not recommended. The 1838 and 1840 had the Kubota v2203 and the CDC(cummins) 4b engines, respectively. Both engines are good, but the 4b is phenomenal. Evidently, there was a running change made during this three-model run. Case used thicker steel on the later loaders, and they changed the method of access for the chain sprockets. The 1835c's and the earlier units of the other two models all used the big D-shaped opening that you see in this video. These folks show the correct method of removing/reinstalling an axle. It's also necessary to sometimes remove the center cover, and reach through that hole to handle the chains. The later 1838's and 1840's had a much smaller slot that the axle went through. It's not possible to remove the axle and the sprocket as one piece on these units. For these later units, you have to move the cab forward, and remove the plastic covers on the top of the chain boxes. The castle nut is removed from inside the chain box, then the axle assembly is removed, leaving the sprocket inside the chain box. I've got a 1835c and a later 1840. I definitely prefer working with the later style, even though it requires more total disassembly. I highly recommend not rebuilding a single axle. If you're doing the job anyway, you REALLY should replace the bearings on all four axles. Check the chain tension(by reaching through the center cover). If the chains can't be pulled tight, replace them. Don't remove links. If you remove links, you'll ruin the sprockets. The later style with the top covers is very sensitive to water intrusion. Replace the rubber seals, or make a concerted effort to never leave the loader in the rain. The wheel bearings are definitely the Achilles heel of these 1835c/1838/1840 loaders. Everything else is pretty bulletproof(except for that Teledyne engine). In case you're wondering about the Teledyne engine -- it's famous for losing the rod cap on #3 cylinder, wedging the rod between the crank and the side of the crankcase, breaking the camshaft, and putting a hole in the block right behind the electric fuel pump. I lost one engine to this issue at 2000 hours. I've heard of other folks having the exact same problem at 500 hours. I lost another engine in this 1835c, simply due to being worn out, at 5000 hours. The engine is not sleeved, and rebuild parts are very expensive. The engine itself is prohibitively expensive if you intend to replace it. I've put a lot of hours in the seats of this size-class of CASE loaders. They're excellent dairy machines, but don't expect them to lift massive loads or dig proficiently. They were designed more for nimble mobility, instead of bulldozer and forklift substitutes, like many newer skidsteers are.

I have a 1838 and a 1840. I have replaced bearings in the 1838 several times, but it is new enough that it has access holes in the top of the chaincase. I drilled my housings after changing bearings more than once, and installed grease zerks. I don't relube them often, but still it seems to have helped life. My machines run in mud, water, and manure. The 1840 has a rear bearing out right now, and being as it does not have the port holes, I wasn't sure what the procedure was. Thanks for putting the video up.

I have 3 skid steers and my original 96 CASE 1845C. It's not fancy like the new machines, but it's the most dependable machine I've ever owned. Legend status!

Ah yes. Fond memories of working on an 1845C Gotta love bailer twine melting into a bunch of moving parts.

Great video. He most likely appreciates you like theres no tomorrow. Nothing better than having a friend that is more like family and to be there to help and lend a hand and a shop. Pretty soon you and Kevin will have everything fixed that he uses round the farm.

Now... that was fun. Bring me more.

Absolutely one of the best 184X bearing implementations. Now to my 1845C in Maine. Thank you for your time to implement on video and share with us. Cliff

man the shit talking in this episode was great, so lighthearted, good to have friends like that (like when you were packing the bearing)

You and Kevin work well together and the vids are always interesting. Good job made for a great video. Thanks

I spend a lot of time making a mechanism for testing the tightness of taper roller bearings for a sealed for life application that was only grease lubricated. We were expecting 30,000 hrs continuous running. It was absolutely imperative that there is end float. Your normal crown wheel and pinion bearings have normally steeper taper angles and have a great supply of oil to lubricate and cool the bearings. This is why they tolerate a tiny bit of preload. When a taper roller bearing setup has no end float or even preload, the "fat" end of the rollers rub along the shoulder on the outside of the cone. it is a rubbing action, not rolling and preload is asking for trouble on greased applications. I have seen a truck weld its bearing to the tube in 110 miles because it was too tight and car front spindles wreck bearings in 65 miles. There is no problem with a wee bit of end float. As soon as there is weight on things it all self aligns anyway, but the end loads on the rollers are very small. Preload makes these loads many magnitudes higher.

Loving the new channel....not that I didn't love the old channel. You and Kevin remind of some guys I've worked over the years. Constant banter! Love it. Thanks

Sorry but the whole thing will likely explode in the first 10 minutes of run time as there were only 4 taps checking the preload compared to the 5 taps before putting the plate back on. 🤪🤪🤪

Stoners steal each other’s lighters, mechanics steal each other’s tools

One of your better videos lately. Love the banter back and forth. Reminds me so much of the characters I work with lol

I always expect a repair to last forever, and I have been disappointed many times thinking that! LOL But after replacing the same axle bearings more than once on a 1838, I read the instructions that come with the Case rebuild kit. The upshot is that packing the bearings is not enough lube. The housing is supposed to be partially filled, the instructions stress that this is important! I wasn't sure how to add that lube, so I installed grease zerks to the housing. Haven't had to replace any of those bearings since.

It’s official, this is my favorite channel. I remember how sad I was a year or two ago when you did the video on the wood loader with the Cummins swap, and mentioned you didn’t want to do that type of work anymore. But this stuff here is just as good, plus Kevin is hilarious!

The banter between these two reminds me of Ave and Dewclaw!

Seriously. I used to pack bearings like that too. One day I realized that if I put the grease and the bearing in a Zip Loc Freezer bag then do it the same way you are doing it that I can do the exact same thing with ZERO mess on my hands.

Loving this "side" channel. Machinery like this is fun and Kevin is awesome.

On my job it’s the nylon mason line for foundations we gotta keep out of there. Learned with my first Skidsteer when it ripped the grease seal out of the hub assembly on one wheel. Never lost another hub again after that lesson!

I like the format of your new channel. Interesting stuff, thanks!

This channel and the Walker clan are officially my favorite you tube channels. You deserve allot more followers

Woulda been great to see the equipment washed prior to tear down to eliminate dirt ingress, also I know everyone does it, but some gloves while packing bearing would be nice. That stuff will dry your hands out permanently, ask me how I know. As far as forgetting that plate, shit happens lol.

Really enjoying these farm equipment videos, entertaining and educational.

I enjoyed watching the work being done. Very good!

I believe I was the first to mention the wheel bearings 👌

I had a gilson garden tractor with a tiller attachment. It had a chain case that was a massive PITA to reassemble as well. Love the videos guys

I worked at Case New Holland here in wichita ks for over 20 yrs. I can tell you this those older models can go through hell and back. We never did these kind of repairs we just replaced the whole axel. The memories...nice work

Extra thumbs up for the "Price is Right" fail horn. That plays in my head every time I do something stupid or I see somebody else do something dumb. We all operate on that autopilot just a bit too far at times.

Fixing farm equipment with Kevin episodes are great!!

Been using black Gasket Maker and import grey for years. Best ever in caulk gun. Much better than silicone.

Rich i was taught the same way you were doing it, I've never had one fail yet from lack of grease

Great job guy! Love watching ya'll

Load shaft used on many Deere models in the 70's and 80's models, I want to say both the Waterloo made 4000 series and Manheim made 2000 series used them.

Great video lads, keep them coming!

I love you’re a show. I’ve done these wheelbearings before there’s an access panel right between the wheels on the side dude to get the chain apart

Enjoying the DGHD videos and that die grinder is a great tool

That’s a great little machine, you can’t beat the price!

Shoutout from TAT Express out of Hutchins, TX

Let the roast begin! At my shop we always roast each other and talk crap. That was funny that a fellow viewer noticed that the wheel bearing was loose lol. That’s good to know how to put it back together and I didn’t know that you should have a little bit of movement. Great vid guys

That bar is a load shaft fitting John Deere tractors I think all the way up to the 23 series and then it fits some smaller ones too I’ve only done one of them before. Love the new channel!

3 more left you have 2 hours here we go.

Thank you DGHD.

I bought a race and seal driver set years ago when I was driving some big expensive seals on the hubs for the floating rear end for our F-350. I just use that and an air hammer to drive races in now.

Same thing happen to my exact same skid two years ago. I knew I could feel the bearing going and even dropped it off at a shop because it was busy season at work and I needed it. They found nothing and sent me home. I was fixing it myself within 2-3 hours of using the machine after they had it. My 1840 has the access panels above the chain drive as well

Great video.love watching him work.very interesting.

My 1840 takes off when I start it so l will be watching for your next video on the 1840. Thanks guys !

That is such a modern machine man....lol Im still working with my mid 70's Belt driven Case 1529!!!

I have never ever forgot to put a part on in the proper sequence EVER!

They are good friends and it is fun to watch them talk shit to each other

Kevin and rich are hilarious together

Good vibes in this video!

You guys are hilarious. Great videos as usual.

Really like these vids, thanks

You guys together make for some entertaining videos!

I for one like this channel!

Installed a new chain on one 30 years ago from the access panel up on the side, major nightmare but got it done.

That skid steer was probably made at the old David Brown Industrial plant in Wichita, Kansas. CNH still builds skid-steer loaders there.

You Guys are great! Im glad I found your videos. I just bought my first machine, a beater Case 1840 notrunning with two wheels broke of. You named where you bought the bearings aftermarket but I couldn't make it out? where do I get aftermarket parts formy 1840?

10:35 Always goes faster the 2nd time. So true. Even more the 3rd then 4th. Had to do the HG on a mid 80s Toyota 22R. Was having a head gasket issue. Originally took me a solid hour to get everything apart with all the various connections on the intake side (TBI). With so much repetition of doing everything I had it down to about 30min.

Good video. I’ve never done one of those. Thanks

If it's the same as an 1845c under the foot panel you can move forward and back to see what linkage to adjust to stop it from creeping, did it on mine when I first got it, took a couple min to adjust at the valve body

Use a grease needle for uni joints and a grease gun Put needle into the roller part of the bearing squeeze No mess no loss and you can ensure you get grease where it needs to go

good video. you guys are entertaining!

It helps to loosen the tensioner on the back axle too to get the chain back on.

Fuel die grinder is my favorite tool.

Good day Interesting ! The JD tractor possibly is 2010, 2510. I can see 3pt, but I can't picture what model. When you were prying out seal between his legs I thought same thing, if you slip off. Thanks good video, never thought of bale string wrapping around axle.

I think we’ll see that skid loader again

Had to replace an axle seal on an old CASE 1537 uni loader and trust me when I say it was not an easy job! Basically you have to take the whole chain case apart and fight to get it apart. I replaced the bearing as well as axle seal and a year later the damn thing is leaking again..😮. I'm not sure if a OMC 1200 skid loader has the same axle and hub assembly but I have one for a parts machine if I can use the axle on my CASE 1537. Used parts for my CASE are insanely expensive now. It all looks very darn similar if not identical to me. I'd trade you machines any day, lol😅 nice video guys.. Way too easy BTW 😊😂

I find that Rich is right about the plastic twine. We just let that molten stuff lube the bearings on our bale shredder. Works great!

Rich is the first person on KZfaq that I have ever seen pack a bearing properly, from back to front Every other video I have seen packs front to back with it installed and no way to know if it is full?

Twine even gets into bearings on farming tools and stuff.. (Seen on millennial or welker)

Love to see an engine swap in a skid steer as I should have done on mine. Two speed drive hydraulics would also be an awesome upgrade to these older machines. TDI is what I should have put onto mine (Gehl 4615) when I bought it with the engine pulled out & "rebuilt" but separate. Can't hardly even get it to start at 45°F with all new glow plugs & plugged in (new coolant heater too.) To low of compression? Also made a quick change plate for the front but wonder if a new style arms could have been put onto it instead. Really like to switch the control arms to Case style (joystick) controls. The T bars aren't very ergonomic.

Great job thank you so much

Good video guys

You guys are entertaining haha

Skid steers aren't very popular where I am in Mississippi but I've recently started looking at getting one. Are all of them chain driven?

I appreciate your video!! And the fact that I could watch it with my kid... Do you know if 1845 (no letter) is the same

Ahahaha Grease packing part was epic.Nice video.

Get the bearing pre load about as tight as you can. Have done 8 skid bearings and they get slack in them rather quickly

Ever stretched an o-ring cleaning it like that? I have changing water filter cartridges

In your palm , you do it the right way, so true about the sand.

Yep 2 hours to put the drive chain back on the hub. Other times it takes 2mins. Mind you that skiddy looks brand new to the bucket we had at work.

Everytime I see Kevin in a video he's doing all the work and Rich is "supervising" 😂😂👍👍👍👍 I hope you charged him double for keeping the shop open after hours 😂😂

Did that half shaft slide back in? Or did you have to press the shaft back into the hub?

3010 or 3020 John Deere rockshaft. I have multiple, they make great punches.

I went to pig iron and got one of those bearing greasers used it about 3 times then quit, after spending more time cleaning it to put it back in my toolbox draw than using it. Now I just lay the bearings on a hard surface on a clean shop towel and use a grease needle and fire the grease in between the rollers until it comes out. Twines a pain, there's a few guys i work for don't pick it up but, bitch when I'm giving them bills for seals and shop time ! The worst thing I've had was a guy clearing fence lines with a Belarus with sliding hub rear axles. He managed to wrap about a 1/2 mile run of barbed wire between the wheel and the axle casting, that was quite time consuming cutting that mess out. Thanks for more shop fun ,Take care guys

I buy grates for combines from A&I. Very good product.

15% knowledge and 85% entertainment. Can't beat that with a stinky stick. :)