Thank you for your video. My switch did not work anymore. I followed your instructions to repair it. My contacts were fine but the contacts and contact plates were loaded with grease. So I cleaned off the grease. Now for the rivet that holds it together. I drilled out the rivet just like you did. But I decided to reuse it. So I drilled and tapped the large part of the rivet with a 8-32 tap. Then I installed the large part of the rivet in the base with the original washer to make it easier to reassemble. On the top I used a washer and a 8-32 bolt to hold it together.

Thank you. Mine has a circlip I can remove instead of drilling. Will be taking mine apart today and checking it out.

Thank you for the video it was both helpful and infornmational

Great job. Keep making videos. Love that you saved $120.

I have thrown 50 or more away and used a toggle 50 Amp switch can buy a 6 posted kind or used a window switch from a heavy truck with a 4 post will work for like $30-$40 and any you go but do not buy the new types for solenoid type winch

How does the inner spring sit? Cant seem to get resistance for turning left and right.

Nice work . I wish I could see the spring , I broke mine and it got lost 😞

I used to work at a Yamaha dealer, and that was indeed the worst winch switch warn ever made. When they first made them, warn never supplied that plastic protector that goes between the bottom of the switch and the rack, so we had to make our own or of course the terminals would short out on the rack. I prefer the handlebar rocker switch.

mine only went in,,not out,,,junk for sure

Yes that would be stupid if you had to break the middle rod and replace with a bolt. First of all if you turn the switch upside down in the center you will see a small snap ring you take that snap ring off and it will come apart so I don't know where he came up with having to break it