They are sealed. Momentary submersion in water ought to be possible with them. -Berry

The light shown in the video is the 8.2" length. The turn signal portion is proportionate to the length of the light, as the length increases so does the number of LEDs dedicated to the turn signals, for example the 8.2" has 2" of signal LEDs on each side. The 14" light has 3" signal LEDs.

thank you!

The flashing is controlled by a flasher relay. But the question of one wire is simply that the LED uses a shared ground so the single black ground wire provides ground paths for both turns, and the brake lights. The details of how the flasher relay is setup will depend on the specific bike this is being installed on.

You can wire these to operate as a single light, but there are over versions available as special order. Email websales@revivalcycles.com for any special order requests.

In order to achieve run/brake/turn functionality in one light you need an additional module which is available on our site. shop.revivalcycles.com/run-turn-brake-signal-module/

This does not have an E-certificate.

There is a version without turn signals from a company called Highsider. It has E mark on it. Costs ~30€

Vladas Gaigalas what does the E mean why is it important?

@@TankToChest with E-certificate you can install it on your bike without having to let it be checked from your responsible Technical Inspection Agency

Odds are that you have a too small of a resistor and should go up in size. I don't know of an instructional video, it wouldn't be hard to make one but then again, if you just need to make one you're going to pay more for all of the materials than it would cost to just buy a replacement.

In order to make any light operate as a Run + Brake + Turn signal you need an additional module that can prioritize braking over running and turn functionality. We do offer something for that on our site as well.

The LED strip comes with a dual element circuit and that makes it so you can connect it directly to factory tail light wiring and have the whole strip work like a tail light.

There is a resistor, you could fabricate this your sef pretty easily if you know you're doing.

That will depend on the exact bike you are working on, some are LED compatible from the factory, others will need to have a new flasher relay, and those that have the turn signal control integrated with the ECU or gauge are usually fixed by using load balance resistors.

+Saturdays Wrench The m-Stop is a small inline brake light modulator that can be setup to flash the brake light in different ways when the brakes are applied. This functionality is already built into the m-Unit so there is no need for an m-Stop and an m-Unit. We recommend the m-Stop if you just need a brake light modulator, but the m-Unit is better suited to complete re-wires and changing to push button handlebar controls.

Saturdays Wrench did you ever figure out how to have the turn signals assist with the taillight/break light function? I have this led and m-unit as well.

The LED brake/turn/tail light is setup as a single filament style of light. If you are installing on a conventional motorcycle electrical system (i.e. not an m-Unit) then you need to use a dual element circuit to split the brake light into the dim tail light and bright brake light. If you've already installed the dual element circuit and that is not working email techsupport@revivalcycles.com

It might work to mount it to the seat, but I'm not sure how well it would stick to the flexible material of the seat. It is much better if you are able to mount it to a metal surface that is attached to the frame. The other issue with seat mounting is that you'd have to disconnect the wires every time you removed the seat...not that big of a deal, but you'd want to use good connectors.

Revival Cycles Alright! thank you for the reply. I am getting a xl350 soon for free and was wanting to possibly convert it to cafe racer, my big issue is the frame and I just gotta hope I can find a frame loop that fits the end.

The LED's do not have published life expectancy specifications, but most SMD LED's are designed to last somewhere around 50,000 hours. So considering an average speed of 30 mph, they should last something like 1,500,000 miles, or ~2,400,000 kilometers. Unless they are physically damaged or subjected to excessive voltage these lights should easily out last the bike. The LED's are not sensitive to temperature, but the housing that holds them is plastic and like all plastic at cold temperatures it can become brittle, so if it is cold be careful not to hit the housing with something hard. Other than that cold temperatures should not cause any issues. Also the lights are reasonably water resistant, they are not 100% sealed, but they can handle the usual water spray from rain and splashes from the road. Be somewhat careful if using high pressure water to wash the bike, and these lights should not be submerged in water.

Thx a lot!!!

The short answer would be no. At minimum you'd need connectors to integrate it into the OEM harness and you would need to replace the factory turn signal module with an LED compatible relay.

+Søren Larsen Pedersen Unfortunately they do not have E certification. We do sell many of them to people in the Eurozone but if you are confident that law enforcement in your region is strict in this regard you may run into issues, you'll have to decide if it's worth the trouble.

Søren de tjekker det aldrig medmindre du køre med rygmærke ;) heller ikke til syn.

Revival Cycles, escuse me , what is the resistance value?

No we do not have a dual color with white and amber. These lights can be installed anywhere on the bike as long as there is a good surface to mount to and you are able to route the wires so they can be powered.

Anything is possible, this LED light would be a good solution for the brake/turn/tail light, but you would still need to solve the mounting and other mechanical issues with eliminating the fender. Also with the newer bikes many have CAN BUS and that usually requires the addition of load balance resistors to trick the computers into thinking the LED is actually an standard bulb.

Do it!

They are sealed. I wouldn't count on them being submerged for any lengthy period of time but I've also never seen one fail on account of getting wet.

Here's a link to them on our site. shop.revivalcycles.com/flexible-run-brake-or-turn-signal-led-light/

The LED strip is 12V only, and really will not work properly on a 6V system. Perhaps you can swap parts or make an upgrade to get the 12V charging system.

The LED strip comes with 4 wires. The Black is ground, the red is for the center section of the strip, the Yellow and Blue wires are for the outer left and right sections. To get the brake / tail function you need to use a dual element adapter that connects to the red wire. The dual element has a red wire for the brake light and an orange wire for the tail light. To get this to function correctly, you need to connect these wires to the appropriate wires on the motorcycle.

Do you need a modulator too?

Blinking is a function of the turn signal relay, on older bikes this would be an independent module that should be upgraded to an LED compatible model capable of being triggered by the lower draw of LEDs. On newer bikes where the ECU manages the flashing function A load balance resistor that matches the approximate resistance of the OEM incandescent bulbs is required on each light so that the ECU doesn't not misinterpret the lower draw as a burnt out bulb. Using LED lights without one of these measures will usually result in hyper flashing LED lights and trigger warning codes on newer bikes.

+ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ ΚΑΡΑΓΙΑΝΝΙΔΗΣ The LED strip comes with a wire diagram in the packaging, and this will indicate what each of the wires does. The details of the wire colors will be dependent on which LED strip you purchase, some have turn indicators, some don't. The integration with the m-Unit is very simple, and the one wire tail light feature of the m-Unit makes setting up the tail / brake light very easy. Just connect the brake wire to the brake output and then configure the m-Unit for one wire LED tail light (menu 2, config B). Then the turn signal wires go to their respective output terminals, and that leaves just the ground connection, and that's it.

+Revival Cycles Ι have bought the LED brake with the turn indicators. The connection is the same?

+ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ ΚΑΡΑΓΙΑΝΝΙΔΗΣ Yes sir!

I don't know what you mean. Why can't you?

Sure, these strips are 12 volt LED's, so they can be used with standard automotive systems. Keep in mind that if you need tail and brake functions you need to add a dual element circuit so the light has two brightness intensities.

Yes, these can be wired in parallel, and they will turn on / off together in a 12v system.

Revival Cycles how do you do that? Im not very good at this, please help me

If your bike has hazard modes, this light will work with them. However, this is just a basic light and it will not add hazard modes, or any other features. It is essentially 3 lights left turn, brake, right turn each light can be turned on or off individually but it is up to the way the electrics are setup on the bike that determines how the light functions.

Now a days, there are many aftermarket hazard modules that offers different hazard modes. So my query is whether this will work fine with such products or not!

Sucks man, my worst nightmare is getting nailed from behind at a light or in traffic.

If you're looking to make the turn signals work as run position lights you can use two additional dual element circuits to give you two modes of brightness. If you want them to operate as Run/Brake/Turn lights you'll need a module like the Fleekz to manage that operation. The same is true even if you're running an m.Unit.

@@RevivalCycles I have a full red run brake and turn, in the box I have 1 module and 1 dual circuit element. I don't know the reason, cause I can't use together on my cb400f

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gsmpm9an1r-cn40.html I tied all in the correct way , following the wiring diagram of Fleekz module .

Not even close to 90º. You might be able to push it a bit further but the angle that we present it in this video is about as far as I would feel comfortable.

@@RevivalCycles thanks!

shop.revivalcycles.com/flexible-turn-and-brake-led-tail-light/

It was about 5 years with the beard, after the first 3 there wasn't that noticeable of a change.

This will work on the new bikes, but depending on how sophisitcated the systems are it could trigger a dash "lamp" warning, or the turn signals could flash too quickly. If that is the case you will need to also install load balance resistors, or possibly replace the flasher relay. BUT I've heard that on the new triumphs the ECU can be re-programmed to accept LED lights, but I do not have experience with that. Check the forums.

Hey Dave - We installed this light a several bikes, and we happen to have the Morini in the shop for some repair work. That light was installed about 3-4 years ago, and I can't see any evidence of deterioration or delamination on the LED strip. The tap that they use is a 3M VHB type double tape, and you might be surprised to find out how many things are held in place with that stuff.

Awesome! Thank you very much. Looks like I'll be picking one up! Much appreciated.

I'm not sure what you mean by subcage, if you are referring to a subframe, then sure, these can be stuck to virtually any clean surface. The trick to getting a professional looking install is to have a dedicated place that has been purposefully fabricated so the install looks intentional.

The resistance for the dual element circuit depends on what the draw or voltage drop of the LED's being used. In general we find resistors in the 75 -100 ohm range in the correct wattage for the application work well.

Thank you for your help

Can you elaborate on what you are looking for?

Revival Cycles I wanna clean up the back of The bike the stock crap is terrible...

The LED strip we sell comes with a dual element circuit so you can connect it directly to the existing brake light wires. The turn signals should work with the factory setup, but they might flash too fast or not flash at all. This can be fixed by replacing the flasher relay with an m-Flash or m-Wave, or other LED compatible flasher relay. It may also work to use load balance resistors. There are many choices and trade offs, not really a one size fits all kit.

Judicious heat application helps to avoid this. I'm certain that it's still possible, maybe even likely but in the 8 odd years that we've been using and selling these I haven't seen it happen when installed correctly.

+Luis Karlo Bailon These LED strips are setup for 12V systems, they will light up on a 6V system but they won't be as bright.

Made in the USA by Radiantz

The tape is excellent! We have had some installed for years with no evidence of lifting. The tape is 3M VHB which is incredible stuff. Just make sure to help the light take the correct shape as shown in this video and you will have no problems.

Yep, those are not ordinary LED's those are high output SMD's.

Resistance value for what? The LED brake light or turn signal? Or are you wondering about the dual element circuit?

yes dual circuito, the wire whit one imput and 2 output

what is the resistance element value, ?

please could you help me?

The resistance value will be different depending on how many LED's are in the string, and depending on exactly which LED's you are using. But generally I find that 100 ohms is a good place to start.

Thanks Michael, noted.

True, but the plastic tubing will melt well before the LED's are damaged. The Junction temperature limit on most SMD LED's is around 135 C or 275 F and if you consider that I'm heating from the outside AND handling this assembly with bare hands the heat in this case is totally irrelevant, because that junction temperature is way below the limits.