would have been cool to see what happened after a second flush, to see if it got even more clean - and also interesting, say in 6 months time after the flush, take it apart to see how the gaskets and softer metals held up to the paint stripper

I've used transmission fluid my whole life (well since I became a mechanic) it cleans super well and doesn't have any adverse effects on the engine. Run it a while at idle flush it out and it's clean as a whistle. A lot of cleaners have tons of detergents that really hurt viscosity and can be corrosive. Transmission fluid doesn't do that, and it also takes high temps well where as a lot of flushes effect that and the oil stability. Used this method the 20 years I've been doing this with great success. I have heard of the old school guys using thinners and stuff like that tho. But, great video!

I have used diesel fuel with great success. Apparently it softens seals to stop leaks another bonus . Quites noisy lifters too .

The paint stripper is methylene chloride (CH2Cl2) very good at removing organic oils (nonpolar). The dimexide is Dimethylsulfoxide (SO(CH3)2) which is good at removing both nonpolar and polar contaminants.

Here in America near the Southeastern side of the continent we generally use transmission fluid for our engine flushes. With a 1 quart transmission fluid for four or five quarts of engine oil placed inside of a running engine for about 45 minutes then change usually does a pretty good job removing all the sludge and carbon buildup 🤷🤷.

Love your channel ! Very interesting test you performed. It reminded me when I was young, back in the early 1980's. I worked at a small "hole in the wall" auto repair shop. I was 20 years old. The owner was a WW2 veteran and had some pretty strong chemicals still stored in his garage. He'd bought them cheap as government surplus in the late 40's . For some reason, American engines in the 70's and 80's were full of sludge!!. I know they've improved since then but petroleum products weren't that clean back then. This Oldsmobile was loaded with sludge. SO ONE DAY....my boss hands me a quart of the stinkyest black colored chemical I've ever smelled. It was horrible!! He says, "drain the oil out of that engine, and put 4 quarts of WATER and one quart of the chemical into the engine! I said WATER?? But that will ruin his engine! "NO IT WON'T" my boss told me...so I did it. The boss said "park the car across the street and let it run a 2000 rpm for a half hour! Steam was blasting out of the tail pipe, the entire time, and the horrible smell filled the entire neighborhood!! The Steam kept blasting out of the tail pipe for over a half hour. The boss says, "Okay, bring her in and drain it". The "oil" was coal black , thin as gasoline, and it burned my eyes and nose while it drained. I was choking! I removed the valve covers and { was shocked! The valves, springs, rockers and heads looked brand new!! I said "where did you get that stuff Bill"!! He said "never mind that"! Its been banned by the EPA since the 50's!! hahaha! That was the last time we ever used that chemical. Never knew what it was but boy did it work!!

We use diesel fuel like that on old dirty motors. Let it run and then let it sit over night. Run it some more but do not drive it. Then change the oil and filter.

you can also use diesel+oil mixture to clean inside of the engine

Mixing your oil with paint thinner seems like an interesting way to add octane and clean out the engine. As the oil heats up it'll off-gas the solvent, which will go through the PCV and into the intake!

I'd be worried about tossing a strong solvent inside an engine eating the seals. Compatibility between fluids and seals is one of the main reasons we have somewhat standardized major fluid families.

respect as always to BMI russian for his skilled translating

This channel is always fun, but this episode was particularly interesting. I’ve owned around 30 vehicles so far, and worked on 50 or more; but the only time I used motor flush was back in 1987, on a 1970 318 V8… and I have no idea if it was ultimately more helpful or more harmful. 🤷🏼‍♂️ While I find the notion of flushing accumulated sludge from the oil passages to be very appealing, I’m too leery of potential damage on the camshaft lobes, as well as killing computerized components on a more contemporary engine, by using something as volatile as paint remover. ☠️

I am from the south and here in middle Tennessee I always heard of the old timers using kerosene when I was growing up. I kind of got that idea from my dad because when he was young he repaired watches for his spending money and he always soaked them in kerosene before repairing them. He always told me kerosene worked quite well for that.

The problem with the paint remover is that it will damage the gaskets and seals in the engine, as well as some other plastic parts that some newer engines have (like timing chain tensors, for example).

paint thinner always cleans gummed carbs and other parts so of course it would work inside an engine but might not be good for the gaskets and rubber parts

Yes..1/2 quart Diesel Fuel..1/2 quart ATF..mixed..Run at idle/2000 rpm Parked for 1 hour..Check oil dipstick and oil cap..Drain/New Oil Change and filter..Inspect running conditions and Drive Low speed around area...Be ready to check for leaks and excessive burning...Play it safe..

I’d love to see how much boost a stock lada engine could handle!!

For gasoline engines : Heat the engine / oil and add 2-3 quarts of ATF . Let it run for a minute or 2. Drain and refill with clean oil. ATF will wash the engine prior to the oil change. Works great to clean lifters, pushrods and oil feeder channels. For diesel oil changes : Heat your engine / oil. Pour in a few quarts of diesel fuel. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or 2. Drain and refill w clean oil. Diesel fuel will wash diesel soot out of an engine like crazy.

I was happy to see you cut the oil filter open! worked good. I'd attempt it on an old beater.

You have to be extra careful with this one. Depending on the type of paint remover you use - you could cause hydrogen embrittlement, which is a very serious problem for hard steels. You could end up causing a valve to break and drop into the cylinder, broken rings, etc. Look it up - hydrogen embrittlement. Certain types of paint removers contain hydrogen compounds that can cause it.

Thank you for translating more recent episodes for us, as I watch the Russian version thru crude text translation, but its so much better to hear it this way.

In the US, most paint stripper contains methylene chloride. Usually a thickener is included in a stripper formula as MeCl2 vapor pressure is fairly high - it evaporates quickly. The thickener allows the chemical to soften the paint before it evaporates. Methylene chloride would dissolve grease very well!

My dad had a 1980 Ford Fairmont he bought used to drive to work back in the mid 80's.He flushed the engine with diesel fuel. Thing ran smooth and quiet after that.

I'm curious to see how much cleaner the next oil change looks like and what a second flush would look like. This is very interesting.

Great experiment! This channel never stop to amaze me...! Good luck with making more exiting content.

my current subaru that i have had for 5 years was totally sludged and lifter rattling when i bought it,it took 3 oil changes and 2 flushes + chemtec lifter free to finally sort out,still runs great with no rattles to this day at nearly 300,000km's

I've used Mineral Spirits on engine with clogged oil ports... coat hangered the ports... 50/50 oil and mineral spirits let idle for and hour... changed oil and filter... run it of 1000 miles and changed oil and filter again then back to normal changes after... worked well...

I would like to see the bearings after the paint remover as the white metal might not act well to it

Interesting experiment, I wonder what that stuff will do the rubber seals in the engine. 👍

DO NOT DO THIS.. this will damage your engine seals/rings and you will begin to have oil leaks.. cool video tho

I am interested to see what happens to oil and valvestem seals as well as other rubber gaskets.

Paint a car 🚗 with ballpoint pen ink

"Maybe I should have used a funnel"... This is the same guy that caused Chernobyl.

You should try Floway from Kano Labs. Best degreaser I've ever used. Never tried it in an engine, though. It eats paint, dissolves asphalt, and generally wrecks anything that dares to be dirty. From what I've seen here, you probably wouldn't care about its 142°F flash point.

The problem in the US is that DCM paint stripper was banned five years ago, so it's not so easy to come by.

The front and rear engine seals are going to leak severely in a few miles.

You can, if you are a painter, easily smell what's in it. Typically it's Benzene and Acetone. These are easy to smell even if there's other stuff in it. But it's usually combined molecules like Ethyl acetate, which is probably in alot of solvents and paint removers. Ethylbenzene is also pretty common and both smell very much like their original form.

yall should be on tv, reminds me of old school top gear

It would have been interesting to have had a oil pressure gauge fitted showing the oil pressure before one regular oil, then when the paint thinner installed, and once flushed what the engine pressure is on regular oil? In the UK up to the 1980's it wasn't uncommon to use paraffin mixed in 50:50 of normal oil, it was regarded as flushing oil, you could buy flushing oil over the counter too. I was confident in the action of flushing oil in the engines of those days BUT wouldn't recommend you try this in an engine after the 90's as the engine technology is a great deal more refined in tolerances, somehow I don't think anyone will be trying this in their new Audi or BMW! anyway greetings from the UK and keep the great work up, we really like the show here.

ATF works great too for cleaning sludge out of an engine too, but you need to drive it hard for about an hour and drain it hot.

flushing costs, paintstripper costs, i flush engines or gearbox with diesel! then you can still use it as fuel after a filter to remove metal bits

Pls keep us updated on the condition of the engine

Great work as always

Cool, sending thanks from Montana USA!

The only click bait im excited for. I'm never dissapointed

You should do what cleans a DPF filter!

Marvelous mystery oil or transmission fluid work's great

Oldfarm trick is to flush a motor with diesel. Drop oil, overfill with diesel, idle for 3minutes and dump. Wont damaged anything internally as it's under no load and diesel is very oily yet good at breaking down gunk,

I wonder what the bearing surfaces look like. Very Interesting indeed.

Find the MSDS on products to see the ingredients...unless it is a proprietary material... It's interesting how many products of the same category use the same materials...but..."NEW AND IMPROVED!"...

What if, for second flush you used 5 L Deisel for a while to clean all poison out? Gaskets and seals might not be harmed this way.

Would this crack rubber seals and eat through them though? Maybe after doing this add ATF or a softening agent to the oil to help re seal them.

Wonder how the seals and gaskets are handling it. Had an O-ring dissolve when I spilled industrial grafitti remover on it while stripping paint from a motorcycle gas tank.

As the oil filter becomes clogged, it will activate the bypass valve in the filter. If a person does a flush every other oil change.. They shouldn't really ever develop a sludged up engine. But, manufacturers of modern oil will tell you, if you change your oil regularly, you won't develop sludge, and in fact engine flushing is not necessary. Transmission fluid is a good flushing fluid, as it has lots of detergents. Some ppl use diesel, which is very aggressive to rubber seals and gaskets, and you can trade a sludge issue with the issue of a very leaky engine.

I'm not sure of this. I'm thinking what this paint remover does to gaskets and seals. Wouldn't surprise me if the engine leaks oil after this treatment. There are products on the market here in the west specially for flushing engines out that, although not cheap, at least not that expensive to risk your engine with paint remover.

They could try this: 1. running the engine to temperature with a fresh filter/oil up to 1 hour 2. drain the oil and replace the filter with a fresh one 3. remove engine from vehicle and mount it to a stand 4. fill engine with paint remover used in this episode 5. remove/loosen spark plugs for 0 compression, at which then 6. turn the engine by hand/drill for 1-2 hours while using a heat source to heat the engine block under normal running temperature with heat guns/blow torches. After the time is up, they could completely dismantle the engine after it cools to see the effect and any potential damage to the pistons/rings, cam shafts, cams, and other critical parts. If paint remover could effectively remove nearly all traces of sludge/oil without doing any damage to the engine and it's parts itself, then it could save people a hell of a lot of money. Even evaluating the fresh filter after the cleaning run for any metal shavings could identify a critical issue as well.

Hallo! In my job,we often use carb cleaner spray to clean the oil deposits,and is doing an amazing work. i wonder what will happen if you do the same like on this video,but with carb cleaner. i believe you're going to have amazing results.

You can make the engine by washing it with acid and after drying it flush it with petrol mixed with some clear silicon, after its dry ad clear water.

i have a cylinder head reconditioning plant and I use a tank of methylene chloride to clean the parts, it is very fast to remove oil crud and carbon. Surprisingly the main ingredient in paint stripper is methylene chloride.

i would be also concerned about what damage it may have done to the seals, gaskets, sealant, etc?

I have used diesel mixed with motor oil to clean my toyota engine. I Would try paint remover (dont do it , it could eat your rubber seals) mixed with oil next time. When cleaning your engine its a good idea to get 2 extra oil filters so that you have a new one after you have done the cleaning job

Main crank seals etc will have swollen up, probably fixing any minor seeping...but at a price of a vastly shortened life. Squirrely sellers will add acetone or similar to oil before selling to stop leaks in the short run. Cool experiment tho. Wish they'd have filled it all the way up and let it sit for a night, drain abit and then run/flush it.

5:55 when the engine says *CLING* it's ready :D

I’ve seen people flush motors out with ATF automatic transmission fluid, and it seem to work good. If the motor is really worn out it will smoke and burn oil really bad afterwards because the carbon build up is gone

Great info, will you do one with diesel fuel in future? Thank you

I WOULD TAKE A HIGH PRESSURE WATER BLASTING CLEANER AND WASH THE TOP OF THE ENGINE , THEN INSIDE THE CRANKCASE BEFORE PUTTING OIL PAN AND ROCKER COVER BACK ON !

Alright, but does it damage the seals or the plastic in the sensors of more modern engines?

PCV to exhaust and EGR blocked off. You can’t get deposits if you only have air and fuel going past your valves. Regular oil changes and a little bit of thought means you never have to do this.

I remember around 2003 I was using some Parts Degreaser on... I think it was the throttlebody on the 1991 Firebird (350 TPI) I had. The degreaser came in an all-metal paint can, was a name brand product but don't remember who by. Quite sure it's the same stuff that was used in a Parts Degreaser Bin (the kind that pumps this fluid through a brush). *_Anyways,_* it was certainly a learning experience!! 😳 The stuff doesn't make you gap for breath or make your eyes water, so I was just kneeling on the garage floor with the van open and scrubbing away at the gunk on the part. It had only been like, a minute maybe, and I noticed my hands.... Imagine how your hands looked when you've been in the bathtub way too long as a kid, and multiply that x2. They also starting to tingle a little. So that's when I grabbed some latex gloves and put them on, just to - now hastily - finish with what I was cleaning. About 20 seconds later and the gloves had gotten a krinkle-coating like look to them... Now I started to work even FASTER! lol After another 10 seconds, the gloves just started falling apart on my hands as I worked (big sections fell off). 😟 Oh, and that tingling turned into a burning sensation! By then, even though I hadn't completed cleaning the part, I was finished either way! Put the lid back on and went in and washed the hell out of my hands! Which at that point, since I hadn't washed them before putting the gloves on (just dried them with paper towels; dumb), they're turned more pale a color than I'd thought possible! Thankfully, I suffered no ill effects and my hands were back to normal by that night. But not have *those* details have sure stick with me! The less important stuff may not have, but thinking my skin was about to fall off any moment sure has... 😊 That was some potent-ass solvent, that's for sure, _whatever_ the fuck it was! hah _(this was all brought back from the fact the one guy was cleaning the oil pan without gloves on)_

Great content Much love from Tulia Texas out on the farm

Pretty cool test. Do this a couple times and decades of gunk and sludge cleaned out.

Cool! What about sealents ans stuff?

There's always a great adventure to be had here!

Put the filter paper into a vise and sqeze out the oil makes identifying metal shavings very easy.

I’ve always wondered if in diesels the fuel dilution over time acted as a cleaner in the oil and help or led to the engine longevity.

Several years ago I used synthetic oil in my 2008 GMC Sierra. It disappeared. The level was dropping and it wasn't leaking, and I really couldn't see it coming out the tailpipe. Fearing that it was gelling up and sticking in the motor; I drained the oil and filled the engine with diesel. Let it sit a few hours, then cranked the engine for somewhere around 3 to 5 minutes. (scared to go more) Drained the diesel, changed the filter. Filled with oil, ran 15 mins or so, and again replaced oil and filter. It has ran like a champ since, always using real oil, not synthetic.

I wonder if these stuff can be used to clear out any carbon build up on the piston

Apparently you can clean catalytic converters using 1 gallon of paint thinner to 10 gallons of gasoline. Let the engine burn through all of it at 2,500 RPM or so. Or drive it for about 200 miles. It has to get hot enough to vaporize everything that's clogging it. Paint thinner makes it run extra hot.

Kerosene works great. It's oil based and won't hurt internal parts.

I'm not sure if you guy's have access to Lucas products but they are a miracle in a bottle. From their oil stabilizer, I've had 22r Toyota engines wirh 100s of thousands of miles that sounded like they were about to fly to pieces to become quiet. To a tractor trailer engine that would put a oil slick across the parking lot from blow by to suddenly stop, to their trans repair have had auto trans with funky shifts and leaks everywhere fixed from a bottle....

Love your content

that engine reminded me of a niva i owned a while back....then when the guy started it i remembered how much i liked that the key was left of the steering wheel

love your work👍 I considered doing that with methylated spirits:)

Holy Moonshine Sippin, Ford truck driving, trailer living is this guy!!!...Someone needs to get this guy an USA passport and ship his ass to Eastern Tennessee!!! This guy is certifiably born as a "Good 'Ol Boy" who absolutely belongs in the hills of Tennessee!!! Just imagine what he could do with all the fun shit we have here!!

The soarer in the background is very cool

If there was paint in there, it definitely isn't there anymore

how are the crank bearings? im curious if the paint thinner washed out the bearings...

What did that treatment do to the seals & gaskets?

try to convert lada engine to boxer engine

I left a Honda CR-V run for 7 hrs at idle with 1 qt 10W30, 1 qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer, 3 qts Dex/Merc III Automatic Transmission Fluid. Looked a lot better after.

We had an old car not pass smog but we take it to a shop that knows us pretty good, he told us go to Walmart pick up paint thinner and throw some in after you fill up and drive it 20-30 miles. Went back and it passed lol 👍 car ran strong until we sold it years later also!

The old school Guy's used kerosene, or diesel fuel. Have a few extra oil filters on hand. Keep an eye on the oil pressure. Do not rev, or drive while flushing!

I use about 1qt or 1 lt of diesel fuel before I change the oil and filter. LS engines get really hot and cook it on, and diesel fuel cuts it off really good.

Transmission fluid works good.

Paint Thinner, is a mix of Xilene, Toluene, Alcohol and acetone. Pretty harsh stuff when heated! Rubbers and plastics hate it!

In the 70s we used an engine clean for diesel, think it was made by Delo. You could only run the vehicle for 5 minutes! Then change the oil.

Privet! Canalizate kausitik soda rabotie. Only drain clogg remover works to dissolve engine crust. I have tried 10 different products on a SAAB 9-5 with blocked pick up screen. Bensin, Diesel, thinner, proffesional products etc. Is a waste of time and money. But poor Caustic soda and water down the oil pan works. On the SAAB you can fill through dip stick tube. and then drain. After poor diesel in to clean out. I didn't start and run the engine due to the chemical reaction the soda makes. If you have something crusty laying about you can try in a bucket. Maybe alternate cycles of soda and paint cleaner would do the trick. But ther is so much work involved that it's as easy just mechanicla clean the engine inside. My recomendations though is that as long you have oil pressure it's better to leave the sludge alone. My experience is that cleaning out the engine will make it brake pretty soon due to worned out bearing that actually needs the thick sludge to take up the gaps. Twice it happened to me that engine started knocking only by changing oil and filter in cars that the owner never change oil for many many years. On a JEEP CJ7 straight six the filter was completly dry in side and the filter couldn't even be cruched in an oilfilter press. Same with an Ford Essex 3.0. The JEEP had been used only during winter plowing snow in a yard only a few times per year for 20 years.

You should let a bear drive the car

Is there any real, hard data that addresses the effect of gunk coated valve bottoms on performance? Air flow? Rebound time? Etc.

Interesting experiment but what does the main bearings think of it. How does the paint thinner effect the lubricity of the oil ?