idk, going like 0.3 mm on a face mill and spinning it a little bit faster gives me the best results on finish

The insert wear on a light cut with a facemill kills insert life, thats kind of the point I was trying to make and those inserts are pricey. A single point inserrt does not get hurt with a light cut its made for it.

@@steveforbes8287 Steve thank you for watching and for your comments!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!!

Hi thanks for watching, I kind of hinted at that at the end, I agree.

Thank you for watching and commenting! I will be doing another video soon that should be a little more fair to the facemill. I would not typically use a facemill to take such a light cut depth wise on hot rolled mainly because of the abrasive scale and the cost of the inserts it is not an economical way to use them in my opinion. That was kind of the point I was trying to make with this video, but will clarify it in my upcoming round 2 video.

Hi thanks for watching and commenting. I love the Mitsubishi cutters almost never a problem with tthem the inserts are pricey but last a long time. I have one for armor plate that is incredible, I will check out your video.

Thank you for watching!

Hi Benny, I was using what I have available for the video, and it is indeed a modern cutter but used typically for roughing we always use a fly cutter to finish our parts because the finish looks better and no blend lines.

@@mvpmachine fair enough. Interesting method. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for watching!

That is fine for a hobby shop but if you need reliability and consistency, this is the only way to go. We have all been there and done that and it takes time, most shops especially with CNC machines are not going to use a hand sharpened tool bit style fly cutter. Also very hard to accurately measure the cutting diameter.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you!!!

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! That machine has a 10 HP spindle.

Paul, he sits in that chair while I work and he cracks me up all day trying to get my attention doing things like that 😄

@@mvpmachine that is hilarious......give him a big hug.....Paul

Hi Sergei I kind of said the same thing at the end regarding removing all inserts but one. You would be surprised how many times we see the crappy facemill finish on parts here in the heart of the automotive manufacturing area here in the Detroit area, I find it unacceptable.

Hi This link should help you decode them: www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm let me know if this helps

Hi thanks for watching and commenting, I don't think the fly cutter finish was bad at all but I don't know if a wiper insert would be beneficial with these cut depths. Also I do not know if TNMG 432 inserts are available with wipers, I cannot say that I have seen them offered.

Hi I did not have any measurable success with the electroculture but the way I did it was flawed for a few reasons. 1st the small antennas I used are kind of a scam and won't do much from further reasearch I found a ground wire is needed and a larger possibly roof mounted antenna to work properly. The little antennas may have some small effect but my patio has rubber pavers snd my driveway boxes are made of metal causung other problems in trying to make them work. The rubber insulated the planters from earth ground which it needed. The metall planters in my opinion act as a shield. Everything grew well but hard to attribute it to the antennas. The magnets were a surprisingly huge success but I have not done any follow up videos due to lack of intrest I hardly got any views on them. Thank you for watching my videos and for your interest I will do more experiments this winter indoors at the shop I will be starting some paulownia trees I grew them a few years ago and everyone loves them.

Shawn you understood this video I think better than most. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Thanks Scott!

I'm stuck between the suburban tool cutter very impressive but still have guys claim heavy weight inertia type cutter is best for bridgeport far as ease on machine and finish any helpful thoughts appreciated. I like your comparison videos alot. If you have disc / inertia type cutter would love to see that showdown.

@@scottpace8794 Scott I do not have that type of cutter to do a comparison but have used them in the past, I am not a big fan of them due to the weight of the cutter and the balance really isn't there either they are still not a balanced cutter, it is really not possible with an adjustable cutter. I don't believe these fly cutters are harmful to your machine if you ran it 24-7 for 6 months taking heavy cuts maybe but most people don't do that. We use them on our 1995 Fadal CNC mill on production jobs almost daily and we are still on our original spindle, we have had the cutters since 2011. Most machine spindles become worn from lack of proper maintenance in my experience running a spindle dry will do more damage in an hour than running this cutter 10 years on a daily basis. The spindle load meter on our CNC machines rarely register any significant load when using a fly cutter yet when using a face mill it is often 60 to 80% load due to the pressure exerted on the part and spindle. That load is directional and will cause far more spindle heat and wear than a single point tool.

@mvpmachine Hey thank you for solid opinion , advice and sharing your expertise with me . Thank you again. Look forward to more videos from you.

Hi, I remember seeing them online about 10 years ago, but have never tried one. I havent seen them in a long time. I have kind of forgotten what it looked like. What type of insert does that one use?

Good point! I do know better but its easier to video it when the camera is in the tripod. I guess it will exaggerate the reading a bit the way I did it. Thanks for watching!

It's called cosine error. You're getting less sensitivity here. I had a student who was taught that the indicator stylus should point at the surface to be indicated. Couldn't suggest to him different. Really made me question what he thought was going on.

Thank you for watching and commenting! Why would you take the full cut if not needed? The large diameter of this cutter allows it to make a full cut without running the back side, if the part fits within the diameter of the cutter. So perfect flatness and finish why would you take the extra time?

@@mvpmachine You say heeling is not needed, the heeling action removes metal too. As a 33 year Tool and Die Maker, not heeling is bad practice... It doesn't always leave the flattest surface... then again, it is an easy way to hide the head being out of tram. There will be a day when it bites you in the rear and you'll be remaking something... just don't say that no one told you.

@@yelims20 When I check with an indicator and see surface grinder flat and a good finish I call it good, this is a modern fly cutter with a high positive carbide insert and a negative rake, not a HSS hand sharpened tool bit. Big difference.

@@mvpmachine Knock yourself out...

@@mvpmachine Checking with your indicator in your machine tells you next to nothing about flatness of the part.

Sorry mic died and camera took over

Hi thanks for watching and commenting! I never would run it that fast unless I was not the one paying for inserts 😆 I always rough with them and just use the fly cutter to finish.

​@@mvpmachinehi yes true work are paying for mine.greetings from the UK.

Hi , I am not sure I would consider a fly cutter for 316L it js one of those materials that does not lend itself to fly cutting as it requires a higher amount of cutting force than most free machining steels. I think that one is best left for a facemill with material specific inserts. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@mvpmachine thanks for the response. I’ve been running lathes for the last 12 years and I just can’t get over the feed lines left from face milling as no such lines are generally left in turning operations. The other option I’m considering is making a fixture to surface grind the faces so I don’t have the feed lines.

@@bf4chode2 You can use a face mill like a fly cutter if you have one that cuts the material well but just leaves the cutter marks sometimes removing all but 1 insert will give you a much better finish. But on large surfaces the blend lines will always be there to a certain extent but over lapping your cuts by 1/4" or so can sometimes minimize them. Some grades of stainless are difficult to get what you want finish wise. Depending on what it is for I have gone as far as media blasting to give stainless a uniform finish and that works well.

@@mvpmachine it is going to be a gift, so I’d like it to look seamless that’s why I’m leaning towards surface grinding. We have an entire semester to do it and I can’t imagine it taking more than a class or 2 (2-4 hours) to machine the whole thing since I already got both sides of the program made and it’s 30ish minutes total. It would give me more time on mills and gives me a fixture I can use outside of school. Thank you for all the suggestions!