Thanks for tuning in! :D

Yes, the stock turbo in the MSM leaves much to be desired. I also have an 04 MSM but with the mods that make it near perfect (for me) The little enchilada not only ups the power to about 200 WHP but vastly improves driveability as well. Also changed to 15" wheels and coil-overs. Near perfect except you need to learn to respect the power boost.when exiting turns. It kicks!

Of course, any inefficiencies would add to this temperature.

If you had done multiple runs to redline, you would have found the power loss as the intercooler heatsoaked. There is no tuning required for a BBR turbo. We are not currently doing installs on customer cars, but we do support other shops who do.

They still own Flyin’ Miata, but they’re not super-comfortable in front of a camera!

@@FlyinMiataVideo So you're saying we shouldn't all chase them down with cameras and microphones? Damn! There goes my April Fool's idea...

We no longer offer the 2554 because it was a poor seller. It was a good choice for the 1.6 at lower boost but then lost out to the 2560 in power and response. Fuel economy at cruise usually sees a very slight improvement. Full throttle fuel consumption goes up because power goes up. If you add bigger injectors and the engine management to control them, you can make more power. If you add bigger injectors with the stock ECU and a Voodoo Box, you will run rich all the time as the ECU will not be able to compensate.

The stock radiator isn't a grenade if it's in good shape. The problem is that they get fragile as they age. If it's the original radiator from 2002, it's 18 years old and probably is brittle. If it's a quality stock replacement, it will not crack. It may not provide the cooling capabilities you need, but that's different than being a "grenade". The amount of prep you need to do depends on your expected power level. For our Stage 1 turbos, the car just needs to be in healthy mechanical shape (ie, no antique radiators!) and it may benefit from some cooling upgrades. The stock clutch on a 2002 may or may not slip at those power levels, it's right on the limits of what it can handle. Oil coolers, vents, catch cans - those are the sort of things we'd recommend for a car that is running higher power levels and expects to see track use.

@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks for the perspective

It is true that getting stock driveability out of a standalone requires a lot of experience and time. It can be done but it is rare for individuals to spend the effort. Mazda's engineers spent thousands of hours on the problem. One way to avoid driveability problems is to use the stock ECU with something like our Voodoo Box to add fuel under boost. When you're out of boost, the car is just like Mazda tuned it. The ultimate power level is lower but it's a good option for a daily driver.

The engine management is not yet available.

I too, wish to turbocharge my ND2. Super excited to see what kind of reliable, streetable gains can be had once the ECU stuff is figured out.

Twin screws have never been very common on any Miatas, and we're not aware of anyone putting one in the NC. We don't have any plans to implement it. It's always possible our roots style unit could return to the market but we're working on something else at the moment.

@@FlyinMiataVideo Yeah, that's what I had kind of gathered. One can dream though :) Fortunately it seems like it's a good platform for a nice quick spooling turbo, and I do enjoy the exhaust note of a turbo car. Now to start saving those pennies for when the time comes :)

A supercharger on the intake side is usually on a custom intake manifold. It has the advantage of minimum throttle volume if it's not intercooled or if it uses an air/water Laminova-style setup. It's usually our preferred option - we've sold a lot of different supercharger setups over the years and the best ones have been on the intake side with air/water intercooling. But it's also more expensive. The exhaust side is easier plumbing for an external intercooler but that means lots of throttled volume. The temperatures from the exhaust aren't a major factor, as most of the temperature rise in the air existing the supercharger is due to the pumping or compressing of the air.

That seems to depend on how the car is used. The rate of failure does not seem to be any higher on turbo cars than on aggressively driven naturally aspirated cars. We do offer an NC transmission conversion if this is a concern, however.

You would need a large turbo for that sort of power range, and pump gas is an aggressive target for a turbo 1.8 making over 500 hp. We don't currently offer a kit that would be a good base for that sort of power level - the manifold has a T2 flange which is small for that turbo size, and the rest of the piping would be undersized for that power level. That's a very high power goal, and there are probably no more than a dozen Miatas running in that power range with the original engine block.

HP limits and RPM limits are not the same thing. RPM puts a lot of tensile load on the rods, and that increases exponentially with engine speed. I wouldn't spin the stock rods much past the stock redline just to be sure. HP tends to be limited by the compressive strength at torque peak, and since knock is a major spike in load they're most likely to fail if there's a problem with the engine management. It's easier to change rods as a preventative measure than rebuild an engine that has a big hole in the side and metal chunks inside everything that shares the oil supply, so we recommend stronger rods anytime you're looking to push past about 250 rwhp on an NA or NB.

We actually did assemble and drive one a few years back. The problem we had at that time was not enough supporting modifications - and the fact that it is literally twice as expensive as doing just one so it's more of a stunt than anything. It's been done a couple of times in the OE world.

@@FlyinMiataVideo thank you. Followed you since the start. Still THE best. Cheers

We haven't explored where the rpm limits are on the ND2. Remember that stress on the internals such as the rods goes up exponentially with engine speed, so sometimes you find out in a very expensive way how fast is too fast.

Yes, Keith's written three books on the Miata.

That Miata is a 1994, which means you can run the EROD package from GM Performance and be completely emissions legal even in California. And yes, it's a stock ECU for that engine. Check out the "California engine swaps the cops can't touch" video on the Hagerty channel for more info.

Trick question. The limit isn't boost, it's power. The stock injectors on an NB max out at 190-200 rwhp depending on the year of the car, and that is your power limit regardless of how you get there.