My brother has the 4.0 in his Cherokee. Such a great engine.

You'll be glad you did. Just make sure the install is of the highest quality.

The stock carb was even more so. About 120hp / 250tq. The EFI was about 150/260 It's biggest issue is simply the inability to breath. It's a plenty big more with lots of potential!

Oh yeah, I'm saving up to get exhaust headers on mine, mostly because my current exhaust is all rusted to crap. I want to keep efi but not sure what to do for my intake manifold, it heatsoaks like a dog, getting well up to 80C when I look at the air temp sensor on a scanner.

I'm thinking of trying a cold-air, ram-air intake combo with some egr delete of sorts. I know I'll need to upgrade my injectors after all that too; that's about how much I can get with the stock ecu.

@@TheDestructor888 The stock ECU, from what I understand, is the limiting factor. There aren't any aftermarket profiles that I know of. If you wanted to get crazy, you could always swap it out for a MegaSquirt controller or something. Otherwise, the upgrades you have listed will probably make a major difference. Your heat soak is also might be coming from cracks or holes if your current exhaust manifolds are bad and leaking hot exhaust. Sounds like fun!

Hi Liam, There isn't a direct "Ford 300" kit. But on my setup I used an Offenhauser C intake, which you can get at most parts sites. Then, I used a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter, since I wanted to go with the 2300 style due to it being better sized to the engine. The Bronco I put it into was originally fuel injected, so I just piggybacked off of the existing system. But you can use any high pressure fuel system, and Holley even sells a Sniper kit with the fuel system included. Exhaust is a pair of manifolds from an EFI era 300.

I know that there was the AOD and the E4OD offered. If you have the AOD, you're fine. If you have the E4OD, you'll have to look into an aftermarket transmission controller. I have a manual transmission, so I'm only going from what I've heard.

Heya. Which adapter are you referring to? 2bbl to 4bbl intake? If so, I used Mr. Gasket part #1933

@@milesaway1980 That's what I needed to know. Thanks a ton!

Awesome, glad you got that issue sorted out. You should definitely be getting better than 10mpg. I get 14mpg with the cruise set at 80mph. That's with 32" tires and the 4.11s I have now (I had 3.55s in the video). With the ZF5 and 4.11s, I'm at 2650 RPMs at 80. With your gearing, tires, and no overdrive, you should be around 2800 to 2900. That's not that much more. It will obviously use more fuel because it's spinning faster, but at 53kPa it's not working very hard to do so. I think my cruise timing is right around where yours is. What is your AFR at when you're cruising? Otherwise, have you done other stuff like checked for sticking brake calipers, e-brake cables, fluid changes, etc. etc. to make sure it's spinning the tires freely? Plugged cat maybe?

@@milesaway1980 no cat. Free flowing exhaust. Cruise afr is 15.5. I do not have a cam in it. It is stock. All brakes are free, no dragging. Everything is new. I have no heat plate on the intake either. Im curious with all reading ive done, will this have a large effect on distrubution? Im thinking im burning excess fuel do to puddling in the intake with no heat as a possibility.

@@colerippeon3903 I forgot to respond to that. No, I don't run it with a heat plate. I think that's mostly an issue with tuning, not gas mileage. I ran one back when it was carbed and it helped a lot, but haven't had any reason to with the EFI. Your AFR sounds good. I'm at 14.5 to 14.8 right now. Might lean it out a tad more. I do have a big cam and large valves, as well as a port and polish and increased compression. That may help. But, I had a setup very similar to yours with my other Bronco (carbed 81 with a 300, 31" tires, 3.00 gears, NP435, 4bbl) and it'd get 15 to 18 on the interstate. Trying to think of what else it might be.

@@milesaway1980 no vacuum leaks. Exhaust was the culprit of the sputter, like you stated before. The walker y pipe was not sealed quite right at the efi manifolds. It seems to be learning still. Every week i check the learn table on the lap top. When i did head work on mine i did find my engine was bored .040 over. Compression is at 150 to 155 psi on all cylinders. Its healthy, just seems to be using too much fuel. The edlebrock would get around 13 to 14 if i stayed in the primaries. Spark plug gap is .036". Seemed to run better with a smaller gap. The distributor is a dui but it seems there .055 plug gap doesnt work with every engine. Spark plugs are standards autolite 45s. Im running 15w40 rotella oil. Im just including as much info as possible. I appreciate the responses as well. Its a big help

@@colerippeon3903 Out of curiosity, do you have the 2bbl or 4bbl style? Is there a return line on it? Sounds like a nice solid engine that should be running really well and get decent mileage.

Very. I'll never go back to carb!

I haven't noticed a major difference. Maybe a half a gallon better. However, the driving characteristics and the performance are hands down so vastly improved I couldn't care less about not gaining some mpg.

@@milesaway1980 how much did the kit cost?

@@jwhiteker2003 I used the Holley 550-850 kit, which was $899. I had the fortunate situation of being able to install it into a Bronco that originally had a fuel injected 302, so I didn't have to pay for the high pressure fuel system. There are kits that come with that too, if you only have a stock low pressure pump. On top of that, there's all the little things like fuel lines and fittings, etc.

P Term is 34 and D Term is 47. What kind of problems are you having? If your idle spark is wavering around a lot, I think that means either your mixture is to rich/lean, your idle timing isn't right, or a combo of both. Mine wavers by maybe 1 - 2 degrees. FWIW, idle RPM is 750, idle spark is 18°, and idle AFR is 14.5.

When coasting to a stop afr drops to 15-16 and timing also drops to 14 degrees. P term is 30 D term is 60, Idle air fuel ratio is set to 13.9 based off of vacuum gauge, target idle is 750, fuel pressure is 58 with iac holding 5% been a head scratcher for me. Would appreciate the configuration your running as a base map

@@hoythenderson8827 If the AFR is dropping when you coast to a stop, that's more likely something you fix in the Idle's IAC Settings. Try increasing the "RPM Above Idle to Start Ramp", "RPM Above Idle to Re-enable Idle Control", and the "Ramp Decay Time". If you have a manual transmission, these need to be a bit more aggressive. With the stock settings, my engine would often stall when coming up to a stop, particularly when it's cold out. Raising these helped a bit. Now my AFR only drops down to about 17 - 18, but at least it doesn't die. I probably need to raise them some more. Mine's at 1000, 300, and 5 seconds respectively.

@@milesaway1980 forgot to ask what distributor are you running for timing control?

@@hoythenderson8827 I have an aftermarket HEI from Performance Distributors. Then I got some parts to lock it out, and a cable to connect it to the Sniper. I then used the Holley Coil Driver that came with my Sniper.

It's an Erson 270321 It's a very nice mid-performance camshaft.

@@milesaway1980 OK, so 220/220 @.050 .506 lift on 110 LSA w/4 degrees advance. Yup that's a pretty standard street cam grind. Rev's out nice for a 300 with a cam that has no overlap. I'm trying to finish up my build soon. I bought some 1.94/1.6 Summit SBC Valves that are 0.1" longer so I can just squeeze in a .600 lift cam. I was looking at something a little hotter. 254/267 @.050 .602/.599 lift on a 104 LSA w/2 degrees advance. Just a little hotter lol. But I also made a "tunnel ram", for two holley 2 barrel 2300's, out of a welded up efi lower like the FrenchTownFlyer did so I want to try a cam more appropriate for that.

@@zakn3954 That sounds like it's going to be a really fun setup! I'll be curious how that dual intake works out. I have 1.94 / 1.60" valves in mine as well, and the ported to match. It really helps it breath!

Hey Cole, I did have this problem way back. It turned out to be an issue with my intake valves not seating properly. But other things that I've heard that can cause it are exhaust leaks, or intake vacuum leaks. To check for exhaust leaks, get a shop vac that can blow air or leaf blower and put it in the tailpipe. Seal it a bit with duct tape (not all the way, but enough to get some pressure). Fill the exhaust with pressurized air and then get a spray bottle and fill it with soapy water. Spray it all around the joints and look for air bubbles. Also, check out the FaceBook group for the Sniper. The forums on Holley's site weren't very active, but the FaceBook group really is, and there's a lot of knowledgeable people there. facebook.com/groups/SniperEFISupport/

@@milesaway1980 i will do that. Thank you for the response. My head was just rebuilt last year. Had no issues running an edelbrock 500 carb. Vacuum gauge is dead smooth. Map sensor on the handheld does not bounce like the afr. I will check the exhaust tomorrow. Im also converting the sending unit to an in tank pump set up. Currently the supply line draws fuel from the stock style carb sending unit. So it has to go up and over to feed. The sputter will not clear unless i let off the throttle by about 15% tps or so, then it smooths out. This issue only seems to happen in 4th under heavy load. 2nd and 3rd gear seem great. Little to no sputter. I love this efi. Ive learned alot but man it can be a pain to figure out lol

Not quite. The stock EFI system can't handle much in the way of upgrades. This engine has a lot done to it.