Holy crap! I’ve been fighting with a bobble in my idle for 2 years. I watched your video and went out and set the ac kick to 0 and it idles amazing now, THANK YOU!!!

This is a BREAKTHROUGH!! My 73 regal hasn't been right and sure enough your ac kick down method fixed my rough idle and sucking noises immediately. You da best !!

Thanks! This was exactly my issue! Went through all the same wiring changes you did and still did not get anywhere. Changed the AC setting to 0, problem solved. Put it up to 50% and the issue came back immediately. Your video was super helpful!

THANKS! I just installed a Sniper 2GC and after the 2nd test drive it started surging at idle. I spent some time studying the manual... but then found your video. IT WAS THE A/C KICK UP. I changed that from 50 to 0 and did nothing else. FIXED. Thanks again.

Thank You! I've been chasing this since my install [like a year], why was it so hard to find an answer? I looked all over and found nothing; forums, chats, Holley tech, etc... i thought it was my lumpy cam but it was the A/C kick. You rock my GMC runs great!

I was adjusting my IAC yesterday. Spent hours struggling. So.. today, I checked my plugs. Yes, they were fouled. So, don't forget to check your plugs. Now, clean plugs installed and back at it. I'll try your technique. Wish me luck.

Just found your video. Your ramp down solution solved my idle surge issue completely. Thanks for your help.

Holy….SHeeeeeeeeeyyyyyttttttt!!!!!!!!! Bruh….. this completely solved a bunch of idle dipping issues and crappy ramp down issues when coming to a stop. It also seemed to stop my hanging at 2000 rpm randomly…. I checked the secondary blades and wound the spring one extra turn trying to fight that and it didn’t work…..how the heck does this ac kick to 0 even work!!!!! I even have the ac kick disabled via the laptop and unassigned to an input. Holy smokes dude! This is amaze balls!!!! Thank you!!!

Thanks for sharing. Lots of good information. Glad the problem was resolved. Look forward to the next one. Be safe and stay well.

I have been fighting a low rpm backfire and surging the last year. I took that ramp down adjustment for AC from 50 to zero and problem solved. Thanks for an informative video!!

When everything is working perfect… it is awesome ….Had a high-performance 302 ‘65 2+2 mustang with one… it wasn’t exactly happy all the time , much better with a tuned and correctly jetted carburetor… and a lot less to worry about going wrong ! I know they’re good when they’re working correctly working…. but man…. it’s hard to beat the old mechanical Holley four barrel…. when it’s working good too.

I agree with all the comments! The A/C kick to 0% was to silver bullet. I'm so happy that you posted that and that I stumbles across your video. THANK YOU

Just had to say thanks. I’ve been trying to smooth out my idle and after watching this video I checked my ramp down and it was set at 50% out of the box…

Great video I would never run EFI cause of the stone dependablity of the carbs and there easy of repair... But I get it people want gas mileage and ability for the system to adapt to weather conditions... But if I would make the move to EFI it would be multipoint injection this way it solves mileage tunabilty and also the classic fuel distribution problems that all mopar carbureted small blocks have when cold. But good to know info on electro magnetic energy. Not to mention a carb fuel pump is a 30min fix no tank needs dropping.

Add me to your list of folks you’ve helped!! Solved my problem immediately! Thank you so much!!

Glad you got it sorted out👍

i have that same flashlight too :p - btw, you can foot to floor when you key on or crank to enter "flood clear" where it shuts off the injectors. comes in handy when you're cycling the key and don't want to hit the intake wet shot during prime.

Thanks a lot from France. Your video helps me fix the issue I had on the 3 sniper EFI I installed. Same issue as yours on the 347, 351c and 390w. I tried to fix it with Holley hotline but it seems they don't much about issues except the well known injector stuck or vacuum leaks......I changed the settings AC Kick to 0 ans it works perfectly. Did the opposite and it turns heretic again, so for sure you get THE solution men. Stay safe

Thanks my friend, you fixed a problem I’ve been chasing for over a year!!!!

I changed the air conditioner to 0 and it fixed my surging problem

Hey, good info, Ive to done the beads, i think they are good house keeping. I do have a suggestion though, Your coil is way to close to the sniper, that thing needs to be 18" away from the sniper, its sitting right beside the IAC, that much energy will not help your IAC surging issues. I bet if you move it like suggested you see another big difference.

I installed a Holley Sniper and after 2 years of messing with it to get it to work properly I took it off and went back to trouble free Carburetor.

Ac kick was definitely an issue for me. Turning it off was the only thing to do on a non ac car. Grounds are a necessity as well.

i didn't know you had a sniper on your truck we may need to talk the A/c setting on mine was at 50% so i set it to 0 thanks for the tip

Hey half. Good video. I always learn something when I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing.🍁🍁👍

So the surge you had is more than not likely from the ac kick. The 10-pin connector orange wire has to make contact with ground to actuate the EFI to ramp up. Make sure it is not touching ground, or if it was, then it was your issue. On my sniper, the rear driver side injector was not plugging properly and my vehicle would start to surge driving down the road, never idling. The one thing that people need to realize when they put one onto there vehicle is that they will require the manifold signal to reach the whole base of the throttle body. Duel plane with no notch crossing both side together will require you put a notch or you put a open spacer on to work properly. I've been playing with the progressive setting on my unit. Might try it on your truck.

Gooooood Stuff!

Giving this a try on my 1965 Impala SS.

Had the same problem with my 81 vett Was told to ground aluminum intake and aluminum heads to frame. Move the coil away from the distributor and sniper then waited tuning I was told Giuseppe hair on zero fix the problems couldn't keep it running before was backfiring raising all kinds of hell just saying

I can honestly say that's why I would never buy one all the simple problems

2012 dodge avenger I turn ac car turns off

Don’t forget to feed the ferrite! ❤

So where did you the fairrite

Did you do a full send/ret fuel line system? And what kind of lines did you use? PTFE? Rubber? Thanks! Good vid!

Good info!

This is great advice!

I just set mine to zero . Did you experience a flutter like cutting out while under load after it got hot ? All of my injectors are working .

I have a vintage air unit. Does anyone know where my AC kickdown percent should be at?

well my sniper just started turning on my radiator fan #1 when i start the car . then the car will not idle ...

If you don't have AC the AC kick needs to be disabled. If you do have AC and have the AC kick wire connected you won't get the interference issues with it cause it's connected to something. It amazes me though what people consider "far from ignition wires" cause all of your high voltage ignition is way too close. The coil and spark plug wires can transmit interference to the fuel fitting you have real close to them.

Damn mines was @50%

well at least you admit that it's a rats nest lol. btw, overgrounding can be more harmful than helpful. its better to have "good" grounds than a lot of them.. high quality welding cable, copper terminals, clean metal where they attach. battery to block, battery to frame, frame to block, frame to body, make sure heads/intake/sniper have practically 0 resistance to the block. no need to ground the sniper direct to the battery. also, along with setting AC kick to 0% - if you're not using it, depin the wire. 90% of the time, AC kick isn't required anyway. depin any wires you don't use. if you only have 1 fan, disable that and depin as well. and while ferrites and delrin filter rod and so on may fix the issue you're having. it's like putting bondo over rust. the problem is still there. you really want to find the root cause of the interference which is usually poor grounding, faulty ignition wires, noisy distributor due to a bad rotor/cap or poor rotor phasing, etc.

First take that hand held and throw it away. Get a laptop and cable. You will access so much more