after a new booster, 3 master cylinders, having it bled 5 times and bleeding it 5 more on my own (including the master on the bench), having the rear inspected (even tho it obviously doesn't leak all the mechanics want to do this 1st, must be big shop hours); THIS WORKED

Thanks for the instructions. Did this on my 2002 Mazda B2300, which is a Ford Ranger in drag. The bolts were movable with WD40 despite 12 Canadian winters. The solid lines were a hassle, it took me a lot of patience and muscle to remove master cylinder from the two studs. They didn't break but were plastically deformed. I left about 8 or 9 threads visible on the push rod and got some pretty tight braking without the brakes engaging when the brake pedal is released.

Man it feels good to have some confidence in my pedal thanks so much for the video I'm like all the others been living with it for years

completely thrashed the threads trying to hold it down with a vise grip, but i did my best getting it to level with the 15 dollar tool. missed by maybe 2-3 more turns, but so far wheels dont drag. Had this problem after replacing my booster with a reman. Going test drive it on the highway tomorrow and update, if it passes ill feel like a million dollar man

You'll never know how much this video helped. Super Thanks!!!!!!!

Well how nice! I owned so many cars and I never encountered one with flex lines at the master cylinder. That certainly makes it a breeze to check/adjuster the brake booster pushrod.

Outstanding! Can't believe I lived with it so long with this easy of a fix. Thank you!

Fixed my problem wish i would have known about this years ago. Got it in 2 tries.

this is a must if youre vehicle has a reman unit on it. they don't set it at all the shop thought it was the brake booster but no it was a short shaft and a turn and a half gave me brand new brakes

You can actually adjust this one time, using a bit of math. Depending on the required factory gap for your car, if you use vernier calipers, you measure the length of the rod at the brake booster, from the mating surface (so how much it extends or is beneath where the master cylinder would mate to the booster. Then you take 2 measurements at the master cylinder: 1. measure where the depth to where the connection is, inside the master cylinder, and then 2. measure from the mating surface of the master cylinder to the top of the tube that inserts into the booster. Subtract the MC numbers (number 1 minus number 2 above), which will give you the measurement of the MC. Now you can compare the number you got for the booster to the number you got for the MC, which will be the gap that you currently have, and adjust the booster pushrod pin to the gap you are supposed to have. Or, of course, buy the tool that does this for you....lol

I just did this job for my Australian 2003 Ford XR6 BA. The only difference is that the push rod actually sits inside the hole. So you have to pull it out with your fingers and hold it out. Then use a pair of pliers/vice grips and adjust just like the video. Just makes it a little bit more fiddly. Honestly haven't checked if it's well adjusted just yet, waiting for the traffic around me to go away. Better safe than sorry.

Thank you you saved me a ton of money 👍

Great video, mine took about a turn and a half!

Thanks boss..that helped a lot

Thanks for showing your methods. Funny, I sort of used the same "try to mount master flush by holding" to test if the rod was too long myself, just going back and forth on adjustment from too long to just a very tad short of interfering with mounting. There is a better way is to use clay or similar to check the clearance, for most applications a gap of 50/1000's is good - just nearly tight against each other but a hair short. That saves you dismounting and mounting. Also the rust on your booster doesn't mean you need a booster but maybe a tad of brake fluid leaked from master or was spilled and got on the booster and has removed the paint.

Thank you! I've been searching around quite a bit for a solution... I replaced the master cylinder and brakes, bled system. Guess what still going way down. I'll try this before I buy another brake booster! Might have saved me a hundred or so! Guess I owe you a beer or two! ;-)

Thank You very much for making this video. Your camera work was excellent and your mechanical advice 100% correct. Your video helped me to adjust a friends Ford car that he has had several years of brake problems with (brakes dragging on all the time causing pads wearing out too fast). I have been an aeroplane mechanic since 1989 but unfortunately they don't use the same brakes that cars do so I never knew about this problem until recently.

proper way to set right is engine running with master removed and end of rod 0.980 to 0.995 from flat surface master cylinder sets against booster face , can make gauge from a piece of thick paper

Thnx for ur video, I got a 05 BA falcon n got a similar issue. Just wanted to know do turn brake booster rod clockwise or counterclockwise to loosen it a bit? Thnx

He wraps up pretty quickly when the little princess calls! :-)

that a lot dude it help me a lot man

maybe you could put some nail polish on the end of the pushrod, and then install it. if the nail polish leaves a dot on the inside of the master cylinder, then you need to back off the pushrod until the dot disappears. but this would require that you clean the nail polish off every time with a rag and a q-tip. it sounds like a pretty good idea to me.

thank you brother

thanks very much you help me..

Would that help the sound of a little air leak in the booster or dose it just help with how much fluid and pressure on brake bads cause I have a 1988 ford ranger that has a little air leak and when I hit my brakes its fine for a secon then it starts to get a little hard to.. it dont stop on a dime

hey man, do you have any idea on how to fix my hydrovac break system?my breaks goes failure, and the suction is too low. should I need to replace my vacuum pump? BTW sorry for my bad English.....

I bought this kar which is a 09 kia spectra. My brakes get drag/lock up about 10 of driving. They put wrong MC and one of the bold that holds BB was loose. Do you thing the push rod has misadjusted to a point where it is too lengthy?

What about input rod adjustment ? That is the rod connected to brake pedal via a clevis. I know the procedure, but just don't know how to access this part. It looks like it needs removing the dashboard section near/under steering column. Actually I need to check whether there are parts broken down there as a result of pressing the pedal too hard using my heel instead of toe.

would this work on a 2004 jag x type awd??????? i had my pads and rotors replaced then my wheels locked up so we replaced the booster..... now my pedal drops lows to stop the car..... we bled the breaks and there is no air in the lines...... can i adjust the booster?

can I get Flex Lines like that for my 94 Honda

i have the same problem with a f150.ours is normal stiffness when truck is off but when you turn it on the pedal drops down and is really hard! could it be the rod?so turning left brings it out and right shortens it?

Nice Thanks👍

what would cause the master cylinder front bowl to drain in to the rear bowl and all lines are good wheels cylinders good any idea . Would a to long push rod do it

i have the same problem with a f150.what did your problem end up being?ours is normal stiffness when truck is off but when you turn it on the pedal drops down and is really hard!

it works in a grand marquis 83?

i have a 67 ford f-100 that i am changing from manual brakes to power brakes. when i hook up the push rod that goes thru the firewall onto the brake pedal. the pedal is about 2 inches from the floor. i am going to try this to see if it will fix my problem.

Can this adjustment change after a panic Ice road stop?

@vegibenz Did your brake jam on or stick at all diagonally, for example front right bracke and rear left jamms on intermittently? My FORD van is doing this UK version,now and again the brakes jam on for no reason then the wheels are smoking hot. Would this master cylinder push rod adjusted too tightly ie too far out would this casue the brakes to lock on

Question 02 f150 all new rotors pads system bleed and clean,so if you feel a low brake then after 1 pump it feels normal.. could this adjustment help. thanks for sharing nice video

Thank u. My pedal is very low

I know this is a old video but there is a tool to do this and you can buy it for like 10 bucks,if you are going to do this job next weekend its a nice tool to have and if you order it Friday you'll have it by then,about everyone sells it online. Not too expensive and it saves you from having to "pull over in a school parking lot" and adjust things,another option is to use a caliper or vernier tool but you gotta be subtracting and adding etc,the tool is a breeze,the tool looks like the letter "H" with a pin thru the center,granted your only gonna use it once or twice but you can show it off to your friends and pretend you're cool,lol

Thank you

Thanks

There's an easier way then taking off and putting on the master a couple of dozen times and your still guessing. You take the master off, then put a ball of modeling clay on the tip of the pushrod on the booster, then remount the master making sure bolts are tight, then remove the master and examine the modeling clay. If you need to, cut modeling clay in half to figure out thickness to get measurment. This gap between master piston and booster rod should be 1/32 of an inch to allow thermal expantion and retraction of part. Redo as nessasary to get an acurate measurment.

Thanks, I have brakes again.

Is there a warm up period before you can adjust the pushrod? Does brake fluid expand as it heats up? If you adjust the pushrod cold the brakes could drag when warm

I just changed my master cylinder in my truck. Still having a damn squishy pedal, no leaks in the line. Maybe I'll try this. And oh, put some never seize on those brake booster studs. Helps a ton when removing the MS a bunch of times.

@vegibenz Heres a theory if you car brakes are jamming on like mine are and it is the push rod adjustment, then putting 2 x washers on the shafts of the threaded bolts coming out of the servo would give the same effect without having to adjust anything,is that theory right, would the washers make the distance between the servo and master cylinder farther away thus causing the same desired effect

Do you have a video of exact swap out on a booster for a 87 mercury cougar. Changed out a used booster off a 88 crown vic but seems much larger in size than the org booster off the cougar. Having hard time getting it to fit in the cougar due to small space , and tight fit to drop booster in. Taking alot more time than I attended and making this harder than needs to be to make deadline. Any videos or ideas, and suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks, David Netherton

May be a dumb question but should I be on level ground or have e brake applied before adjusting rod?

my clutch also runs off the master cylinder if I adjust the push rod will it disengage my clutch further..

When I press the brakes in my 02 Ford Escape, there's a lot of play before I can feel the brakes actually being applied. however, when I take my foot off the pedal, it goes back up to normal height. Would this be the push rod being too short? Or something else?

Don't forgett to replace the and box that has everything to do with holding hydraulic break pressure.

What is it that makes it go out of adjustment exactly? If a master cylinder had failed and replaced for example and problem of 2 front discs stuck on brakes dragging, what causes the push rod to have come out of adjustment when it's a solid rod?

I have a 98 Plymouth voyager

do u know anything about a brake booster on mini vans ?

If I have a internal leak , and the booster gets full of break fluid , will that cause white smoke to come out the exhaust pipes ?

What would cause the push rod to be needing an adjustment?

what about a 79 f100, my pedal is really high on it

Will this cause the moter to die at a redlight??

Don't drop your nuts! Ha ha. Good video.

If you pull to much out gonna make any problems?

جميل

شكرا لك يا أستاذي الفاضل

I did this but once I got the bolts off the master cylinder wouldn't come out easy. I had to pull hard and then it made a release of pressure sound. Is that bad? Also the pushrod didn't come out of the hole like yours is. The rod was deeper into the hole.

i need more video

Maybe I missed something, but how the pushrod length is measured : from what point to what point ?

i noticed that you laid your master cylinder on its side, and then held it upside down. doesn't that allow air into your brake lines? since you allowed air into your brake lines, don't you have to re-bleed the entire brake system, starting at the master cylinder, and then all 4 tires per the proper bleeding sequence in your Haynes manual? i think you screwed up when you laid the master cylinder on its side, and then turned it upside down like that. i woulda made sure the master cylinder stayed up-right while i was re-adjusting that push rod.

Anti-seize on those to studs would be good idea. Clean the crust off the mating surfaces before reinstall. Measure the protrusion of the plunger so you'll know where you started and each adjustment. Write it down.

they make a tool to get proper adjustment buy one on amazon

Just buy the tool on line. It’s 12 bucks plus tax

this trick does NOT work on a 67 ford f-100. i know i tried it this morning. it did not help my problem.

Focus.......tmi

unless its wrong from the factory or some idiot has been messing with it it should be bang on. its not a part that wears so adjustment shouldnt be necessary.

If he would just scrape off the rust and crud from where the master cylinder mounts, that would be the same as turning the 7mm bolt OUT a full turn!! Does this dork go to bed with his boots on?!

sounds like a bad master cylinder to me.

bad brake booster. pedal should not be stiff when the car is off unless you pump the vacuum out of it.