17aagarcia - Thx so much!

Hello, I have a 2011 Ford Explorer and I have the code p0456 evaporitive emission system leak detected, but it tells me PERMANENT, THE PURGE VALVE ALREADY CHANGE, when I accelerate fully it chokes and makes explosions and releases a strong smell of gasoline, I hope you can help me. I'd be really grateful.

Thanks very much. I do try to be helpful :)

Awesome :)

did you have to manually clear the code, or just drive around for code to clear?

@@ericfellinger4613 manually cleared the code

@@terrykeatley5775how do you do that?

Jérôme Denis - Heya. Thanks for kind words. I do believe the outer fuel door w/ weather seal is one piece from ford. So you’d need whole outer door to get seal. It would have to be painted to match car if you get it from Ford as body parts are generally painted primer or black. You should call dealer and give them VIN#. They can tell you exactly. Remember - ‘Easy Fuel’ capless cars - outer seal does not seal tank! It’s a weather seal only

@@AutomotiveEZ Thanks for the quick and accurate answer, much appreciated again! I'll pass on buying a new fuel inlet door though it's good to know so I won't keep looking for the rubber seal sold separately as it's not offered that way. I do have the codes P0455 and P0456 at the present time on 2010 Ford Escape 3.0L. I did clean the inlet as you've demonstrated well & I had the Genuine Ford Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid 9U5Z-9F945-C replaced but the codes are still showing, engine dash light still on. Too bad I didn't see this video before spending $ on that. So, I will be adding the Genuine Ford Locking Fuel Cap next, hope that does it or I'll be replacing the Vapor Canister Purge Valve-GAS MOTORCRAFT CX-2626. BTW you've done the best video on KZfaq for replacing the Vapor Canister Valve!

Jérôme Denis - if the truck has Easy Fuel (capless fill behind hinged door) there is a chance the filler neck is faulty! (Rusty and leaking vapor) Thx again and best of luck! If in doubt have evap system smoke tested at shop or dealer

Thanks so much. God Bless you. You stay healthy as well:)

tony tackett - Thx a bunch. I love to help people out. Pls subscribe! Be well..

My truck is 0451 I’m gonna try this on my 2015 Ford F-150.. it’s weird bc the code comes up then disappears a few days later..

@@indianaeuc7617 Did it work? That's the code I got on my F150. Going to clean the gas door/opening today.

@@jimh.412 yea it works

@@indianaeuc7617 Awesome. Thanks!

Dirt Berger - Thank you!

James dubs - Thx much!

Thanks much :)

Thanks very much. Your words are super KIND. Be assured - I do appreciate you. If the video helped at all that was the goal. :) . Have a great day!

Carl welch - Thanks!

Thank You!

Did you fix the problem?

@@mustafaertoprak2284 Yes the scan was for spark plugs. Not easy to change but it worked. I cleaned the fuel cap too. Thanks!

Lol, looks like you and I have the same problem. I filled up my tank to full last night and now I have this P0456 code.. 2021 Mustang GT.

@@ricopopman5038 Welcome. Be well!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the kind words

Jimmy Ross - Thx for your comments. I have fixed a lot of P0455 codes on Ford “easy fill” equipped vehicles with the ‘clean and lube” illustrated here. I use “clear silicone” specifically - because it’s very compatible with rubber or rubber-silicone seals. Brake clean is terrible and highly corrosive. WD40 is a great product but seems to tear up “soft seals”. However it is great for HARD PLASTIC bushings lol. I know from experience. It is great on metal too.. Thx again

AutomotiveEZ good evening nice channel and very clear I have a 2014 Ford Taurus v6 my car is shaking like crazy I think my fuel filter needs to be replace could you please help me with the location I can’t find it

@@juliorivero7995 Hey there - sorry for late reply. Been so busy. There's NO serviceable fuel filter in your Taurus! The filter is part of the FUEL PUMP MODULE Assembly inside fuel tank. Most vehicles are built this way going back 15-20 yrs ago. That's how long ago they started eliminating the serviceable "chassis" fuel filter. NOT a good idea if you ask me but car makers only care about their profits and making lighter vehicles with less parts for various reasons like fuel economy

Welcome 👍

Be well my Brother

Welcome!

You’re welcome :)

ALT Institute - the plastic surround that goes around metal filler neck is a separate piece. It clips in with no screws. It also has the rubber covered ‘spring pin’ that allows fuel door to latch shut and spring open when door is pushed on

Hey there - thanks for your kind words! Can you tell if the gas odor is in front or rear of vehicle? The purge valve can make a fuel odor under hood. Sometimes the entire filler neck is rotting leaking vapors in back - or vent valve at canister

Sorry for delay! The ecoboost has a totally different Purge Valve and Design. You should look it up by application. (year/make/model and engine) Also - harder to install on an ecoboost. Best to have it diagnosed first if you're unsure.

Hi there! The filler necks do fail a lot. I generally only clean the low mileage ones that are not all rotted out. Some of them get really rusty and develop leaks

CRC Heavy Duty Silicone. Here you go www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-silicone-lubricant-7-5-wt-oz-05074.html

If a DTC Related issue is actually repaired successfully - the DTC will be cleared by vehicle computer (PCM / ECU / ECM - Whatever you prefer to call it) However, this can take a real long time. Some DTC's need to be "clear" in the eyes of the vehicle's on board PCM for 20, 30 or even 40 drive cycles. Way better off going to a shop to clear it or buy a $25 pocket code reader. Because to me - it's much better to clear it and then drive - to see if it comes back. Time is of the element. No need to wait 20-40 days when you can just clear the code cheaply of for free. I do believe autozone and advance check and clear codes for free.

Thanks!

It can be either. I will say those fuel necks rust out and leak vapors when they get old. I have changed many! And the purge valve is easy to change too

It is not a bad idea. But after the disconnect you have to reset clock - radio and basic settings

Elvis Briseno - Erase them if you’re able as you’ll get a quicker end result. The Evap monitor would run after clearing (when conditions are met) and if code pops back on in a few days or a week you’d have to go further. One bit of advice is keep fuel level between 1/4 and 3/4 tank as evap monitors don’t tend to run with empty or full tanks. Thx for commenting, pls subscribe!

Ashroller22 - if you have the Easy Fill you can clean it like in this video. You should also physically inspect all the evap tubes the best you can with your eyes. But the best way is a smoke test and a scanner to turn on / off the purge valve and vent valve and so on. Make sure they have power and work correctly. The latter steps are best done at a shop

I’d simply use dry silicone aka clear silicone. I know it hurts no seals

Billy Bob - Hey Billy. GREAT question. The car in my video is indeed a SPECIAL edition. It’s a 2013 Mustang MCA. So, MCA - stands for “Mustang Club of America. It’s mostly a trim and wheel package. However the V6 in this car is 305 HP. And the one in my video has a 6 spd manual. It is very fast! The grille is an MCA Grille - hence the very unique look it has. It’s slatted and looks like aluminum. Ford calls it a billet grille but I never checked to see what it is made of, lol However it looks awesome. In a nutshell - go to a Ford Dealer and pick up a Mustang MCA grille. Emblem may come separate.. I think the MCA was made from 2011-2014. Pls subscribe and thx for posting!

Ford Publishes test procedures for all DTC’s just like all car makes do. You need to get the P0456 test for your specific vehicle - and perform it. The actual (various) emissions valve can be tested with a vacuum pump and power probe - off vehicle

Sometimes fuel neck needs replacing - they rot out or door sticks in neck

No - do not use WD40. Only clear silicone for tank seals and hoses and use sparingly. You should have the code diagnosed at a shop if you see nothing obvious

I use CRC - generally speaking, based on availability - Blaster is fine as well. Just make sure it is clear silicone. Not the foamy white stuff

Have a smoke test performed - but check filler neck first

Hi. I'm pretty sure you meant to type "P1450" for the code you have. Yes, it "may" be related to the Purge Valve but does not have to be. All the "various" Evaporative Emissions related codes - can have different reasons for being there (the root failure) So, with that said, it can be a Purge valve but can also be a Vent Solenoid, a tank pressure sensor, kinks in tubing or other blockages. And even many more items than that. This is why it's best to see a qualified Shop and Tech to diagnose it. My video is more to show that "many evap codes" can be fixed up with these simple parts that most anyone can change / check and clean - like that filler neck. They are always neglected. My procedure may save you some money. But it's a gamble, unless the system is actually tested first and a fault is found. Evap systems are one of the hardest to diagnose (time consuming) because there are SO MANY parts and SO MUCH plumbing from rear fuel tank up to engine. And everything is controlled by the PCM. Hope this helps!

@@AutomotiveEZ ok awesome, I will definitely take it to a shop just to get a 2nd opinion on this... Thanks a lot sir 👍🏾👍🏾

stunnaman19 welcome!

Hello. I’m in NJ. Where are you?

Hi Juan - with the P1450 you most likely have a bad Purge Valve under hood or bad Vent Valve at tank area. I’d start with Purge Valve and use a Motorcraft Part. Hope this helps

Metronome Senpai - Hi. That code is for Purge Control Circuit. So it can be the Valve, wiring or even PCM. Probably best You take to a shop. Or if you want to try yourself - purge valve may fox you up

Pete Vandenberg - Hi. You can use this method on any Ford vehicle that has “easy-fill” style system. It helps to try this first before going to a shop

Hi Pete, did it work for you? I have a 2015 mustang with the same problem

That code is generally for a hybrid car and is small evap leak. Could be a purge valve or leak detection module. Have a good mechanic look it over

The outer most door - keeps out dirt so it should be functional… thx

Likely the under-hood valve the culprit. The purge valve … also shown in video

@@AutomotiveEZ I did the blow test and it didn’t let air through out of the car. But I took that out and cleaned it with no luck

@@mrmidnight32 Hello. Did you change the purge valve under the hood? To be clear, you’d follow the evap pipe underhood - where the valve has input and output side. Output must go to Intake or throttle body if you have the right valve. After replacement all codes DTC’s need to be cleared. Engine lamp would be off if they clear correctly. Then you need a good long steady road test on highway to reset monitors. If CEL returns during road test vehicle needs a fresh scan to see what code is set. Sometimes old code goes away and a new code sets in post repair

@@mrmidnight32I am and going through this currently and didn’t start replacements yet 😢 did you ever get it resolved?

A Purge Valve leaking can def cause a rough idle

Hi Jennajone45 - Yes - all Ford “easy fill” capless vehicles can be cleaned this way using factory funnel. But if you have a P0455 (large evap leak) you likely need to replace ENTIRE FILLER NECK. Cleaning only seems to help w/ smaller leaks. Also there are at least 2 Evap solenoids on ANY vehicle & some have many more than that. Purge solenoids and vent solenoids are most common offenders - they fail. Unfortunately the Ford Easy Fill neck seems to fail at 7-10 years / sometimes sooner. I have changed many! Lastly you can have a broken Evap pipe. A good shop would smoke test it to pinpoint issue but seems most shops are terrible these days. Best of luck!

@@AutomotiveEZ thank you I will try all of this. I'll start with shop first and see where it get.

If you need any fuel system parts I’d use a Ford Dealer parts counter. Aftermarket parts are usually junk

The EGR system would not set a P0455 code. The 0455 code is for evaporative emissions system. The EGR is a separate system. So you may have more then one issue. You should find a REAL mechanic near you to inspect it. It may cost a few bucks but is worth it in the end

When the fuel tank door is closed its clearly visible that the fuel tank rubber seal is melting. Weird.

Hi Gary - what is the year and model of your car? That will help me give you a proper response. Thanks.

@@AutomotiveEZ Hello. Its a 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport LT Front Wheel Drive 2.4L 4 CYL.

Roberto Soto - you may need to replace the filler neck

Make sure that the guy pumping your gas is not topping off your tank! They have to be told not to do this and why not to do it. If the tank gets too much gas from being topped off it will push gas past the tank vent valve and introduce raw fuel into the vapor canister! This system is designed to only take gas vapor or what is referred to as hydrocarbons and store them in charcoal inside the canister until the computer tells the purge solenoid to open and suck them into the intake manifold and burn them when it is ready for this to happen. It can also set off a check engine light for a rich fuel code from pouring liquid fuel instead of vapors in the engine.😉

HyunWulf Moon - Hi. That code is a bit generic and likely off an inexpensive “pocket” scanner. Is likely evap related purge or vent issue. I need a solid P-CODE or Manufacturer Code to work off. Easily had off a real scanner

Daniel - The parts that ate shown in my video are only the EASY Fill Neck and Purge Valve. They are both used on GT as well. There was no motor (electrical motor or otherwise) shown here

Suggest new purge valve

Thanks! @@AutomotiveEZ

@@ejneenan9329 You’re welcome. Is an inexpensive - first step. A hung up purge valve will cause an extended crank many times. If it does not help please see a local mechanic you trust. Be well

Shaun French - generally a P0455 or rough idle. Sometimes a small leak code as well. This car was fixed by this process

Steve Miller - is it an EZ fill system - meaning NO CAP AT ALL. Let me know

AutomotiveEZ Yeah, I just put the gas pump in and it fills it. No cap on it. And the gas door has that rubber seal around it as well.

Steve Miller - so it is possible you need a new filler neck - since it’s a cap-less system. The seal on the gas door is just a dust seal and does not seal tank at all

Just clear silicone! Petroleum based lubes can eat up plastic and rubber. Silicone only. Be well

Code 456 is either an evaporative emission leak or a faulty valve

Angel - Absolutely. In fact I do mention that in my video. There can be a multitude of reasons - for why these codes set

son vu - Hello there. If you watched my video, carefully... You’ll see the FORD furnishes their “easy fuel - easy fill” vehicles with a “funnel / filler adapter” - with the vehicle - when it’s built. Your vehicle should have this funnel - which is used if you run out of fuel (so you can fill tank using a can) If you can locate this funnel just run it in and out of fill flap with clear silicone. It’s all in my video. Does not matter if it’s a newer version - as of now - at least

AutomotiveEZ thanks for your reply. My inlet has two layers of flap. The plastic outside and another one inside. I will try your method with a screwdriver to open the outside flap and clean the inside one. Hope it will work out. Thanks a lot.

AutomotiveEZ also, can I use silicone WD-40? www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-Specialist-Water-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant-with-SMART-STRAW-SPRAYS-2-WAYS-11-OZ/21838836

son vu - Can you post an image so I can see it? Again - if the vehicle has the “fuel adapter” in luggage area I’d use that instead of a home made object

AutomotiveEZ here is the video I took kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orSChsmYsM60dXk.html

Sorry I had missed this comment in past. Do you still need help?

Mark Zhuravel - Heya. It does not work that way. A P0456 indicates a fairly small Evap System leak. It is not specific to a particular part failure. A multitude of different Evap part failures can cause this code. Even a leak in a tube. The system needs to be tested by a competent technician

AutomotiveEZ thanks for the reply. So I’m looking at my gas location and it’s very dirty and there is lots of dust. I’m very positive that this could be the problem.

Mark Zhuravel - Well any dirt or debris can be an issue at fill location. You should clean filler neck and install new gas cap if it is a cap style system. If easy fill - follow my video. Clear codes and retest

AutomotiveEZ alright thank you! I’ll let you know if I do fix it if I don’t forget.

Mark Zhuravel - Great. And pls subscribe

Romil Sabroso - generally evap tubes but needs diagnosis by professional shop

Tony P - Turn key on - engine off. Clear codes. As soon as tool clears codes - key off. Pull tool. Then start and drive briefly. If p0455 is there immediately you likely have an electrical issue - shorted or open circuit. That would (usually) explain (most) any code that comes back instantly. Because otherwise it takes time for circuit to self test via monitors. And I can’t diagnose a code over a computer. So this is simply general advise! No promises intended

@@AutomotiveEZ No light on the dash even with code stored?

Tony P - That can happen easily! Codes that set in ecu may not turn on check engine lamp until the ecu sees them for several drive cycles. That is a fact. The lamp is a driver alert. The code is validated before lamp is engaged. All is based on the software logic

@@AutomotiveEZ So I take it, it will not pass test then with that code and no light on? Also waiting for the readiness to be complete but I know the evap system can take time. Thanks for your help by the way..

TPUSILL - Yes - cannot pass test with code stored! Light or no light

Heya... any CLEAR silicone spray is fine. Like CRC or any name brand. Just make sure it is clear - they also make white silicone which is sticky and heavy. Clear is like water and does not attract dirt. The can may say “CLEAR, Heavy Duty Silicone” on it

I’ve found the canister on autozone, looks like the goes towards the bottom end next to the inter cooler or bottom corner of radiator. Idk what’s really there lol but it’s either the canister or valve. Now I got more questions. Wow.

Ben - if it’s hard to start up after a refuel - start with UNDER-HOOD Purge Valve. The valve is part of the tube assembly on 1.6 EcoBoost... It’s Plug n Play after you figure out the quick disconnect fittings. Part # for your escape should be CV6Z9D289T. However, confirm part # before buying. And follow tubes under hood before buying to make sure you’re comfy doing this job. If not - go to dealer. Because the average shop will install cheap crap white box part. I only use Motorcraft on Fords at my shop. Best of luck!

@@AutomotiveEZ hey thank for the reply and your personal time friend. I’ll type it out fully. I actually just took my first look for the fix about an hour ago. Been having trouble starting only after fueling for months now. I knew what happened I just don’t know exactly what to replace. It’s different than any other Evap system just because the purge valve doesn’t seem to disconnect from the system. Replacing the whole thing looks easy enough. I’m just trying to see if I can buy just the purge valve for 30$ rather than buy the whole system for 100$. Thanks and sorry for my confusion. I’m going to research if it could be the solenoid instead

@@RBoysMedia - yes one pipe goes to tube that goes to intercooler if my memory serves. I would only use Motorcraft parts if it were up to me lol

@@AutomotiveEZ but like I said I tried doing the thumb trick, didn’t seem to get suction with connector plugged in or not. Guessing purge valve is stuck closed

Matthew Stokes - spraying it like this - not at all. Won’t hurt a thing

Did the silicone spray on the flapper hinges, replaced the canister purge valve and the code is still popping up even after clearing. I’m guessing new filler neck is the next step?

Matthew Stokes - hey there.. what code do you have?

Matthew Stokes - Hey there buddy - a proper smoke test would be best! However - these filler necks do fail too. I changes a couple already on Fords and had great success. For small / medium leaks. Best of luck!

Thanks! You guys are awesome to reply. I really appreciate it. One last question. Would there be anything in between a new filler neck and the canister purge valve that could possibly be the problem?

Hey - you could have a small / medium leak with those codes. Should have it smoke tested for leaks.. Also - any valve in system not sealing 100 percent can trigger those codes.

@@AutomotiveEZ thank you

I have cleaned the gas inlet and reset the codes and have done over 450 kms so far.. no codes have come up yet in the scan.. how many kilometers will it take for the system to check for leaks in the evap system

@@WrightStrenghtandAgility You can pick up a pocket scanner that pulls codes and displays READINESS MONITOR STATUS as well. A steady drive on highway usually does the trick for most monitor resets. But you need to vary speed and do some long decels foot off gas etc. Monitor drive strategy can be found in most repair manuals online under emissions section. Be well!

@@WrightStrenghtandAgility PS - Monitors can reset in 40 miles or less if driven correctly from a cold start. Gas tank should be between 1/4 and 3/4 filled. Not empty or full! Because then, that monitor will not run. Gotta check readiness status along the way as well

Thank You!

LMAO

pinetarsoap - That is for evap pressure sensor circuit. Have it diagnosed

That is a great question. And I have the answer. However - depends on root cause. For example a P0456 can be a leak near fuel tank - smaller size leak if compared to say, a P0455. However - a 456 leak that say was stemming from a purge valve seal being intermittent - that in fact may effect fuel mileage and may even cause a rough idle. Codes stored in vehicles can originate from multiple sources of failure. No ONE code has an exact origin. I hope this helps. Be well

@@AutomotiveEZ i replced the canister purge valve, but check engine light remined even after reset. Would you say replacing the filler neck would solve this issue?? Thanks in advance ! Subscribed!

@@george5697 Hi George. The top “failed” parts I’ve done on Ford for this code - under hood Purge Valve and/or Filler Neck - the other item is canister Vent Valve. Look at filler neck under car for rust. When they get real rusty they do leak vapors - especially the Easy Fill style filler pipe

@@AutomotiveEZ Thank you so much, it's hard to find a good mechanic around my town, thank you very much!

@@george5697 you’re very welcome my friend. Be well sir :)

@@sumanth2042 442 and also 455 - small leak usually is valve issue and larger leak generally at filler neck. GENERALLY

@@AutomotiveEZ i changed duralast valve from autozone but still cel on..do you think canister or filler neck

P1450 is not related to anything in my video. A P1450 needs diagnostics

@@AutomotiveEZ Ford states P1450 has to do with purge valve and canister, but my canister is fine. We are replacing the purge valve which also seemed to test fine. I have found dirt and water around my filler neck pocket, however.

Johnsen silicone spray but you can also use CRC brand. Just make sure it is clear silicone. Not white silicone. Not petroleum based either. Plain silicone

@@AutomotiveEZ thanks alot

@@alexsandoval5012 no problem… be well

In the video I mentioned to only use a clear silicone. Not a petroleum lube. The brand name does not matter. However - I generally use CRC brand clear silicone. Clear silicone sprays out like water. There is a white silicone product on market.. that looks like lithium grease and is sticky… Stay away from white silicone when it comes to gas tank and evap seals

Hey there - I do not think WD40 or Clear Silicone is hard on any filler neck parts at all. Or seals.. I do know BRAKE CLEAN is very harsh, lol. It is more corrosive than Gas. Gas was way better before they decided to add all the Ethanol - which dries out rubber parts and is corrosive. We have too much alcohol / Ethanol in fuel

It seems all car / truck makers are using similar systems. I prefer a cap myself

Hi - use any CLEAR silicone spray. CRC is a good brand. If you have a code reader for OBD port you can clear lamp yourself but drive time required to see if lamp comes back on or not depending on success of repair

@@AutomotiveEZ okay, not air? Saw some people using that. Thanks!!

@@karinaxo3442 Hi, you may blow compressed air - gently - to remove any debris. The lubricant (only silicone) is used afterwards

Hi Jay - NO SIR! Definitely not related at all. I can assure you

@@AutomotiveEZ would you possibly know what would cause that?

@@jayredhouse - generally the tank sending unit - or cluster where gauge is - however can even be in wiring. I can’t say for sure unless I tested car myself

I have same issue any fixes marks 1/4 under what it has